A few modifications to my 19

[MyronL]

Remember now, those are all outside measurements. My first dry fit did not take into consideration the space an opened lid would take up. I thought I had made allowances, but I was wrong big time. Fortunately coming up with a fix that was not nuclear only took a couple days. And, rabbet joints, rabbet joints, rabbet joints.

Thanks, I very much do appreciate the complements. Yes, so true, Habberdabber - doing nothing is the hardest thing I have ever done.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

3/4 material has worked for me ? Pat

Me too, for sure. But in reference to the photo posted by Myron earlier, it was a sheet material, likely fiberglass sheet, that was shown. A Triscuit, a biscuit,... whatever.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

Me too, for sure. But in reference to the photo posted by Myron earlier, it was a sheet material, likely fiberglass sheet, that was shown. A Triscuit, a biscuit,... whatever.

I was talking about the 3/4 ply . I know definetly won’t work with the sheet material . Pat

[MyronL]

I just now ...caught my Typo. Meant to say ¾ inch x 2 x 4 FOOT plywood. I always proofread my stuff before posting - totally missed that one, Dave.
And this is the leftover plastic corrugated sheet I used (with a dadoed slot) for the front.

We just gotta get out more.

[Greg A]

Good project, Myron. With a $1000 battery sitting there, I would put a secure lock on it.

[MyronL]

Wish someone made a secure tongue box, or even something called a secure lock. I'm going with hiding in plain sight, and keeping my eagle eye.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Good project, Myron. With a $1000 battery sitting there, I would put a secure lock on it.

Originally Posted by MyronL

Wish someone made a secure tongue box, or even something called a secure lock. I'm going with hiding in plain sight, and keeping my eagle eye.

Myron: You already appear to have a box within the larger box for the battery. How about just add a lid to the battery box with some security head screws? You don't need access that often to a lithium battery. It would put the battery more out of sight, harder to remove and it would also allow you to store some small stuff on top of the battery footprint. Win, win, win.

[MyronL]

Exactly, Rubicon, and the lid gets covered/buried over, with maximum flotsam. Might also add a couple rat traps.

[Effie]

Thanks for sharing, I think I’ll take some tips from your box design when and if I decide to convert to lithium, as I don’t have the box in the front of my e19. One thing I would add is some form of ventilation (temperature controlled fan?) as the closed box can get very hot under the sun, not a good thing for lithium or any battery.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Effie

Thanks for sharing, I think I’ll take some tips from your box design when and if I decide to convert to lithium, as I don’t have the box in the front of my e19. One thing I would add is some form of ventilation (temperature controlled fan?) as the closed box can get very hot under the sun, not a good thing for lithium or any battery.

That's a good point about a closed box but Myron probably still has some head room as the Battle Born high temp spec is 135F. To start he might want to paint the top of the box white instead of blue to maximize reflection. Also I wonder if just some holes (one high and one low?) at the back of the box protected from rain and road spray might help to get a little circulation. If that is not enough then add the 12V fan you mention to one of the holes in the future so you have an intake and exhaust.

[HABBERDABBER]

I added one of these, rectangular one about 3" X 5" to an upper, rear portion of my box build to vent the battery hydrogen gas. Stainless steel, any similar vent would work. Big box home stores have soffit vents like this too.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

I added one of these, rectangular one about 3" X 5" to an upper, rear portion of my box build to vent the battery hydrogen gas. Stainless steel, any similar vent would work. Big box home stores have soffit vents like this too.

Like these. Obtained from West Marine.

[Effie]

I started considering battery temperature after monitoring my own system. I have the two 6v batteries installed in the front by Escape. I added solar and a Victron battery monitor with temperature sensor. When the temp outside is only 85 the battery inside the standard black box is already 120 (sitting in the sun). I know it’s a different box and yes the lithium have built in protection but excessive heat will shorten the life of the battery, it’s probably a good idea to monitor the temperature and do something if necessary.

[MyronL]

When I cleaned out stuff in the first box a few weeks ago I noticed mice had gotten into it and them varmits had chewed up several cloth-based bags and a tie-down strap, and made a nice nest in the box from the built up chewed up fabric. Another price paid for not taking the trailer out because of the lock-down restrictions.

Since I probably made the new box back wall opening now even larger, to accommodate incoming wires, maybe a fan running in there would also scare off future squatters.

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by Effie

I started considering battery temperature after monitoring my own system. I have the two 6v batteries installed in the front by Escape. I added solar and a Victron battery monitor with temperature sensor. When the temp outside is only 85 the battery inside the standard black box is already 120 (sitting in the sun). I know it’s a different box and yes the lithium have built in protection but excessive heat will shorten the life of the battery, it’s probably a good idea to monitor the temperature and do something if necessary.

I was wondering when someone would bring up this topic...

In planing my upcoming solar install I see that a temperature sensor is widely used in residential solar controller applications to protect the batteries. I have no idea if Escape installs a temperature sensor for the solar charging on the batteries but if so, why not a temperature sensor for the WFCO charging supply that can produce many more amps for a much longer time as it does not rely on the sun.

I also need to make new lid hold downs for my two black battery boxes on the tongue as the straps on the aftermarket boxes I purchased have broken after only 2 years. Having read a bit on solar, it appears that having batteries in a black container sitting in the sun is not optimal. I am thinking on a white hard cover over the lids at least on top. This will secure the tops and proved some relief from the sun.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

I was wondering when someone would bring up this topic...

In planing my upcoming solar install I see that a temperature sensor is widely used in residential solar controller applications to protect the batteries. I have no idea if Escape installs a temperature sensor for the solar charging on the batteries but if so, why not a temperature sensor for the WFCO charging supply that can produce many more amps for a much longer time as it does not rely on the sun.

I thought the battery temperature on the Victron battery monitor (user upgrade) was one of the variables in the battery state of charge algorithm. The solar controller and WFCO should compensate automatically for what the battery bank can take. Battery temperature is not needed to accomplish this. Experts please weigh in...

[MyronL]

The safe operating temperature range listed of my 100amp Battleborn lithium is
from -4°F to 160°F. I am O.K. with that. (But mice? No.)

[Greg A]

Low temps was why I planned to move the new Lithium’s off the tongue and under DS dinette bench. Hadn’t thought about high temps being a problem, but being stored in Phoenix it is a good idea to be relocating them.
Now that I’m doing the preliminary wiring the other advantage to this location on the 19 is all the electrical services are right there and makes installation much simpler.

[Effie]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Low temps was why I planned to move the new Lithium’s off the tongue and under DS dinette bench. Hadn’t thought about high temps being a problem, but being stored in Phoenix it is a good idea to be relocating them.
Now that I’m doing the preliminary wiring the other advantage to this location on the 19 is all the electrical services are right there and makes installation much simpler.

I agree, the preferred location for the batteries is inside, you will reduce temperature issues. The reason I like to keep the tongue location is the space I'm loosing if I make the move.

[MyronL]

Have been having some trouble with my WFCO fuse block. One particular 15 amp fuse blew out twice, for no apparent reason. It was the 4th one down, protecting ceiling lights. Then another one, number 5, also began to flicker when I touched it. Found no detectable shorts causing this to happen. What to do?

No ceiling lights for no apparent reason. A few months ago I did some creative add-on lighting overhead in the dinette area and that kept blowing a fuse, until I tracked down and corrected the wiring. Seating a new fuse had caused odd sparking there. And when touching the fuse those two bulbs did flicker. That couldn’t be good. Decided not to wait for another mysteriously blown fuse. My best guess - Quite possible I may have inadvertently caused an internal spark or breach within the printed circuitry.

Went online, found a replacement fuse block, seen here. $21 from Boat and RV Accessories (Ohio). Notable is this replacement is identical except it’s lights are all LED. All good so far.