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Old 05-24-2018, 06:53 PM   #531
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Nice touches there Myron.....
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:30 PM   #532
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Of course when Josie gives one of her big lunges she might pivot the whole trailer.

What with the solar panels and these mods you've been a bee hive of activity.

What's next?

Ron
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:57 PM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Here’s a couple door area neat little mods I just had to do.

First, the need for a stripper bar. We don’t store heavy stuff in the overhead cabinet, don’t have any gel coat stress cracks on the roof, but why take a chance, right? Thinking any extra grab bar by the door is a good thing. Made myself a stripper bar.

Next, we have a dog who will complain and harass us early in the morning if we don’t let her outside. Sometimes I just don’t want to put on shoes so to walk painlessly on gravel to the rear bumper. Josie weighs 53 pounds and is a load. No way she goes out without being locked to a tether. We already learned attaching a line to the door grab bar is a really big mistake. Something real strong and sturdy and conveniently near the door is needed. Ah, the step. Removed one 3/8ths bolt holding the retractable step and added an eye bolt. Of course it is stainless steel. Only the best for Josie.
Myron Nice work on your stripper pole and a great solution for Josie and stainless to boot ! Pat
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Old 06-20-2018, 01:01 PM   #534
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Not much countertop space in the trailer kitchen. The fold up counter extension left of the sink is real handy but at 11 x 13” it’s just a major scootch too small. Built a new extension, now have a 13½ x 17½” fold up counter extension.

Lessons learned:
  • Home Depot doesn’t sell Formica sheets any more. Corner radiuses too sharp for metal or wood edging. The retro look was out.
  • Couldn’t find vinyl T edge molding for the edge anywhere in town. Needed only 4 feet and wanted brown but had to buy a 20 ft length on line.
  • Visit to a kindly cabinet maker’s scrap bin and getting a nice scrap of Formica free was real nice. T molding needs a slot. Didn’t have a 1/16th inch slot cutter for my router but a thin table saw blade worked nearly as well.
  • As usual, found materials at the county dump, ¾ thick plywood.
  • Learned don’t use water based contact cement for the T edging. The petroleum based is stronger and a quicker bond at the curves. Why did the design profile need curves? At 17½ inches the major scooch problem just got shifted to getting out the door.
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Old 06-20-2018, 02:10 PM   #535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Home Depot doesn’t sell Formica sheets any more. Corner radiuses too sharp for metal or wood edging. The retro look was out.
I did a tight radius on my countertops with a metal edge, by just removing the slot material from around the bend.





Building a fold-up extension is a project I will be doing some time soon. I just ordered a couple of these brackets two days ago.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M3XIHWP/...709270_TE_item
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Old 06-20-2018, 02:23 PM   #536
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Jim I like your 3/4 metal T edging better than the vinyl T I used-- thanks, will now look into that link. On my counter extension I did an "S" curve. Wonder if shaving the T for that area works. Just saw that link you added is for brackets... didn't see anything about T moldings.... maybe I better re-check it.
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