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Old 11-12-2014, 03:36 PM   #161
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Your door is too beautiful to be so low - you need to put it at eye level.
... or make a bunch more of them.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:53 PM   #162
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I was on the other thread but I thought I could smell coffee wafting from this one!
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:55 PM   #163
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Your turn Donna.
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:00 PM   #164
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Nickle plated Hinges $2.89, knob, $1.89, at Lowes. Wood salvaged from select pieces from pile back in the yard-- adjustments made with table saw.

Love a good accent piece. Magna-cedarleski-rediosa. Hmm...Kentucky coffee wood? Got to see that.
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:30 AM   #165
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New storage /access door open
Now that you've paved the way and I can see how much space is available I've ordered two cabinet doors and hardware. Cost has gone up a little, they're now $65 CDN but that's still a good price.

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Old 11-17-2014, 12:40 PM   #166
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Now that you've paved the way and I can see how much space is available I've ordered two cabinet doors and hardware. Cost has gone up a little, they're now $65 CDN but that's still a good price.

Ron
Ron,
Is that $65 each or is that $65 for the two doors?
Mark
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:01 PM   #167
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...and of course each door comes with hardware, right?? Yes Ron, much space underneath the furnace. Just beware of the wires. Three are on a very short leash.
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:05 PM   #168
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I wish No, they're $65 each, but considering that's with the hardware I'm can still live with that price. I'm not sure what my wince factor is for top price but I'd probably have paid $75 each. Beyond that, 15* modified Shaker router bit, here I come.

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Old 11-17-2014, 02:07 PM   #169
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Hi: MyronL... It's time you came in doors!!! It's coffee break. Alf
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:56 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
I wish No, they're $65 each, but considering that's with the hardware I'm can still live with that price. I'm not sure what my wince factor is for top price but I'd probably have paid $75 each. Beyond that, 15* modified Shaker router bit, here I come.

Ron
Ron,
I have to give ETI another hats off they quoted $35.00 each door including shipping and handling and that what they charged me. I most have been lucky enough to be the ETI Learning curve on the cost of the doors with shipping.
Mark
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:57 PM   #171
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New storage /access door open
Mine too

I made a template for the cut out, taped it place and used a utility knife to cut the panel and a hack saw blade for any solid wood.

I'm changing the plumbing. The black pipe will end up mostly out of sight along the top of the opening. I'm also going to replace the "S" trap with a proper "P" trap and vent it from there. So I should end up with an unobstucted space.

I've already tested it for holding a longish object that I wanted to carry out of the way but accessible and it's just fine for that. I'll probably also use it for misc. items. The one going under the furnace is already earmarked as my tool storage cuboard.

Ron
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:16 PM   #172
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Big ass hole there, Ron. If I end up capturing all the unused spaces for storage, I definitely will never need a front box.....nice.
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:27 PM   #173
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I'm changing the plumbing. The black pipe will end up mostly out of sight along the top of the opening. I'm also going to replace the "S" trap with a proper "P" trap and vent it from there.
I assume that's the sink drain, and that there is no plumbing vent to the outside in this location (because I only see one in the bathroom in ETI website exterior photos). So...
  1. Is there a separate trap out of sight (since the plumbing shown doesn't form a trap at all)?
  2. What is the purpose of the green-and-white flex hose visible in the cabinet (which presumably goes on the white hose barb at the Y-fitting just above the floor)? If it is for venting, I don't know where it would go... to a "cheater" interior air inlet vent?
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:32 PM   #174
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The trap by the sink is an "S" trap. It's probably OK even if not an approved type for residental type use. Given the amount of water used it's unlikely to ever siphon itself dry.

That green hose was on the white hose barb and it is indeed a vent. It runs vertically up the door frame to the roof. Because I'm working on the pipes anyway I'll run a vent from a new "Tee" that the waste arm and "P" trap will feed into. If that makes sense, sort of like how your home plumbing is vented.

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Old 11-22-2014, 11:50 PM   #175
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Question,

During our orientation Reace mentioned an internal 'automatic air vent' installed behind the aft bathroom wall and the gas furnace on our 19'. I was thinking that was for the sink(s).

The air vent on the roof above the bathroom is for the black tank? Or the bathroom sink? Are you aware of the internal air vent?

Glad to see what's in there, I was trying to picture it but never thought of an "S" and small hose to that vent, thanks!

Mel
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:13 AM   #176
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Question,

The air vent on the roof above the bathroom is for the black tank? Or the bathroom sink? Are you aware of the internal air vent?

Mel
As near as I can figure:
a. the kitchen sink is vented to the roof by the vent running up the door frame.

b. The bathroom sink may be vented but I haven't specifically looked for a confirming roof vent.

c. the black tank is vented in the forward inside corner of the bathroom running up to the roof. That's why the corner is a "45" not a "90".

Ron
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:22 AM   #177
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b. The bathroom sink may be vented but I haven't specifically looked for a confirming roof vent.
Ron
I'll bet the internal vent would be for the bathroom sink. He pointed to the wall just inside the open bath door (left) and behind the wall.

Thanks
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:44 AM   #178
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The trap by the sink is an "S" trap. It's probably OK even if not an approved type for residental type use. Given the amount of water used it's unlikely to ever siphon itself dry.
Okay, but this is something other than the visible black drain/waste/vent piping, right? That bit doesn't have a low point so it isn't a trap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
That green hose was on the white hose barb and it is indeed a vent. It runs vertically up the door frame to the roof. Because I'm working on the pipes anyway I'll run a vent from a new "Tee" that the waste arm and "P" trap will feed into. If that makes sense, sort of like how your home plumbing is vented.
Thanks. Makes perfect sense - I just don't see the external vent fitting in the photos... but then, the ETI website photos aren't the same trailer (just the same model).
Flex hose for the vent seems to me like a great way to follow the curve of the trailer wall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
During our orientation Reace mentioned an internal 'automatic air vent' installed behind the aft bathroom wall and the gas furnace on our 19'. I was thinking that was for the sink(s).

The air vent on the roof above the bathroom is for the black tank? Or the bathroom sink? Are you aware of the internal air vent?
The 'automatic air vent' is the "cheater" air inlet that I was wondering about... but used for grey waste water on the bathroom side, rather than the kitchen side. The one roof vent I saw appears to be for the black waste tank, then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
As near as I can figure:
a. the kitchen sink is vented to the roof by the vent running up the door frame.

b. The bathroom sink may be vented but I haven't specifically looked for a confirming roof vent.

c. the black tank is vented in the forward inside corner of the bathroom running up to the roof. That's why the corner is a "45" not a "90".
That all makes sense, with the 'automatic air vent' for the bathroom sink (and shower?)


Now change it all, Ron
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:27 AM   #179
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That's a pretty good possible explanation. I'll confirm it tomorrow when I open up the area under the furnace and look and see if there's a second roof vent on that side.

I've used cheater vents before in other applications and never had a problem. The only possible problem that venting a tank with one instead of household plumbing is that the tank could have a build up of pressure and the cheater vent, operating only in one direction to break a possible siphon, wouldn't reduce tank pressure. Probably not a biggie and in the Escape case the kitchen vent would allow proper venting since it vents the same tank.

Ron
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:02 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
a. the kitchen sink is vented to the roof by the vent running up the door frame.
I have a vent in my passenger side wheel well. Is that just for the tank then. I had assumed it was the vent for the whole grey water system.
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