Added exterior shower / spray port

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by UCEZ

I'm installing an outside shower box on an E19, but haven never worked on fiberglass. The cutting looks straight forward, but nervous about the screws. From what I've researched it looks like the recommendation is to use tape (like cutting) and a slightly larger pilot hole than for wood. Do you use sealant on the screws as well? Any thoughts on the size/length of screw needed.

I cut the fiberglass with a Dremel with small cut-off wheel. Drilled out the corners first to create a radius versus sharp corners. Use the fiberglass opening as a template to cut away the foam insulation and vinyl headliner. Put a strip of butyl tape on the flange of the shower assembly that screws will penetrate. Drill small pilot holes for the screws. I believe I used #8 stainless steel pan head sheet metal screws about 3/8 inch long. They are self tapping so you only need a small pilot to guide the screw. You will feel them underneath but you just want to avoid penetrating the vinyl wall covering on the inside. For good measure you can put a bead of Proflex around the perimeter of the enclosure when you are done.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...1021/204275386
https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834.../dp/B001FCB4JS
https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28127V.../dp/B003VAWQYY

[UCEZ]

Thanks!

[Greg A]

From my Scamp days which are still ongoing with a Scamp 19, I line the perimeter of the cutout with some 1x furring. Then sink the screws through the FG and into the wood backer. I found on the Scamps that sandwiching the FG between the new hatch and the wood furring really strengthens the installation and also helps to prevent any spider cracking from the cutout.

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, a wooden backing makes any opening a lot stronger.

[UCEZ]

Good idea, thanks again!

[UCEZ]

Do you recommend putting the wood backing directly against the fiberglass or keeping the insulation/vinyl in between? I kept the insulation/vinyl in place, but now wondering if that is going to put pressure on the fiberglass and lead to spider cracks...

[cpaharley2008]

I think if you keep that quick connect valve lubricated for easy disconnects any stress should be on the component and not the wall. You may want to put a shut off valve inside and plumb from above for ease of winterizing or isolating in case of leaks.

[JEFF KY]

I just installed outside shower yesterday. I lucky have a cousin that owns a body shop. He said he would never put a screw in fiberglass. Pop rivets only. Drill and pop rivets size of hole. Pic to follow.

[JEFF KY]

I just installed outside shower yesterday. I lucky have a cousin that owns a body shop. He said he would never put a screw in fiberglass. Pop rivets only. Drill and pop rivets size of hole. Pic to follow.

I sealed with pro flex Rv sealant clear.

[cpaharley2008]

I think the stock location is a litle forward of your location but it looks good....remember to winterize it now.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by UCEZ

Do you recommend putting the wood backing directly against the fiberglass or keeping the insulation/vinyl in between? I kept the insulation/vinyl in place, but now wondering if that is going to put pressure on the fiberglass and lead to spider cracks...

I always slid the furring strips under any headliner and right up against the FG. I don’t imagine it would cause a problem either way as long as it tightens down securely