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Old 03-24-2019, 06:43 PM   #1
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Added exterior shower / spray port

Have a traditional shower on the driver’s side but have envied the spray port setup with faucet on the passenger side that some have. Very convenient to wash hands, fill a pot, etc. The planning for where it would land was the hardest as I had no reference on the exterior and I needed to ensure I could accomplish the piping inside with the Flair-it fittings that have a large nut that screws on. Pre-assembled the piping at the table which helped tremendously. Another hard part was connecting to the existing supply pipes due to limited space. Good thing that PEX is flexible. It came out well and it was watertight when I leak tested with city water. One thing to note is that the bypass valve I used to attempt both isolation and gravity drain (for cold weather when inside plumbing would still be active) unfortunately does not completely hold under pressure in bypass. This was disappointing. I don’t have the room for Sharkbite ball valves with drain so these will be replaced with a simple Flair-it stop valve. I will also be insulating the inside enclosure under the sink with Reflectix to restore some insulating value to the area.

The unit used is the same one available now as an Escape option:
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa.../PF247201.html
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Old 03-24-2019, 07:35 PM   #2
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Looks great...it is going to be a little bit of a mind bender on the best way to insulate it.
Maybe something simple like a square of soft foam stuffed in before you close the door. This would allow heat to reach the taps but not so much exscape out the door.
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Old 03-24-2019, 07:54 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Have a traditional shower on the driver’s side but have envied the spray port setup with faucet on the passenger side that some have. Very convenient to wash hands, fill a pot, etc. The planning for where it would land was the hardest as I had no reference on the exterior and I needed to ensure I could accomplish the piping inside with the Flair-it fittings that have a large nut that screws on. Pre-assembled the piping at the table which helped tremendously. Another hard part was connecting to the existing supply pipes due to limited space. Good thing that PEX is flexible. It came out well and it was watertight when I leak tested with city water. One thing to note is that the bypass valve I used to attempt both isolation and gravity drain (for cold weather when inside plumbing would still be active) unfortunately does not completely hold under pressure in bypass. This was disappointing. I don’t have the room for Sharkbite ball valves with drain so these will be replaced with a simple Flair-it stop valve. I will also be insulating the inside enclosure under the sink with Reflectix to restore some insulating value to the area.

The unit used is the same one available now as an Escape option:
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa.../PF247201.html
You sure have been busy ! Nice work ! Pat
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:52 PM   #4
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Looks great...it is going to be a little bit of a mind bender on the best way to insulate it.
Maybe something simple like a square of soft foam stuffed in before you close the door. This would allow heat to reach the taps but not so much exscape out the door.
Thanks. My thought on insulation was on the interior of the enclosure to reduce heat loss in cold weather. The internal plastic check valves were removed from the faucet valves and the intention of my bypass valve arrangement was to isolate and gravity drain the final section. It unfortunately didn’t hold in bypass under city water pressure but mine is pretty high and I didn’t use a regulator. I’m going to try again with lower pump pressure which is the mode we would use it in anyway.
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:09 PM   #5
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The internal plastic check valves were removed from the faucet valves and the intention of my bypass valve arrangement was to isolate and gravity drain the final section. It unfortunately didn’t hold in bypass under city water pressure but mine is pretty high and I didn’t use a regulator. I’m going to try again with lower pump pressure which is the mode we would use it in anyway.
Valves didn’t hold with 55psi pump pressure either. The only thing I can think of is that this type of valve is meant to bypass water but not hold a tight shutoff with that high of a pressure.
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:39 AM   #6
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Valves didn’t hold with 55psi pump pressure either. The only thing I can think of is that this type of valve is meant to bypass water but not hold a tight shutoff with that high of a pressure.

That’s a bummer. Cheap valves?
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Old 03-27-2019, 08:28 AM   #7
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That’s a bummer. Cheap valves?
I didn’t think so when I was buying them. I just think they aren’t able to hold against the high differential since they are meant as a bypass valve. I have the one port capped which was to be my drain.

https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16910-P...a-451390233988

I should have used these. 20/20 hindsight.
https://www.sharkbite.com/products/b...lve-drain-vent

But of course these are longer and I would have had to mount the spray port even higher. Remember I was trying to get a gravity drain of the shower.
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Old 03-29-2019, 05:27 AM   #8
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Another thought is the valves are directional. Technically as a bypass valve I should have the common port down facing the water source. Because I was trying an isolate and gravity drain strategy the common port is facing up towards the shower. I don’t recall markings on the valves but I’ll look closer. The regular Flair-it shutoff valves I just received are directional.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:59 AM   #9
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Post pics when you’re done
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Old 03-29-2019, 09:37 AM   #10
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I added my own exterior shower port too. An easy project. I had no reason to add valves and just tied it in to the sink lines. We have use ours lots, as if nice we cook and clean outside. Great to refill the dog bowl too.
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