Adding a Ceiling Light to the Escape 19 - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-23-2012, 02:10 AM   #21
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Re: Adding a Ceiling Light to the Escape 19

As I said in my writeup, it was an easy job once I got over the fear of cutting the ceiling vinyl material. The template was very helpful for locating the light and, more importantly, served as a cutting guide.

Rick
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:57 AM   #22
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Re: Adding a Ceiling Light to the Escape 19

rainbowheartda, we have a double LED on the wall over the mirror. When we open the cabinet above the stove, the LEDs light up the inside of it. They also light up the clothes closet and the refrigerator.
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:27 PM   #23
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Re: Adding a Ceiling Light to the Escape 19

that sounds good too, but we like to have more lights above the table so we can see food (or books) better
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:32 PM   #24
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Re: Adding a Ceiling Light to the Escape 19

There are three lights around the table so no lighting problem there at all that we have had. Never use them all.

Our LEDs are mostly too bright to leave on and we mainly use them to light up those areas I mentioned as those are the places with little light.

Some people have installed hard-wired lights inside of cabinets. We have some battery-operated ones also.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:20 AM   #25
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Re: Adding a Ceiling Light to the Escape 19

We only have the two lights at the dinette, one under each upper cabinet, and like the idea of adding another over the dinette. Right now that is where I am sitting, and my head shadows the keyboard from one light, and the screen from the other. An overhead light would be a nice touch. With the lights I added inside all the cabinets (which I highly recommend), the rest of the trailer is lit up fine for us.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:18 PM   #26
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Re: Adding a Ceiling Light to the Escape 19

I guess the older models only have two lights. We have a third in the middle over the table near the front window. I was struck immediately by how bright all of the lights were. Ours are not LED except for the double one but it is even brighter probably because it is big. When we switch to the small LEDs in place of our present lights, maybe we will think we need more light also even with three around the table.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:51 PM   #27
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Hi all, finally got a chance to work on the lights, following Rick's procedure, I put in two lights one on each side of the fan. The original plan was to add a light directly on top of the dinette. I tried to insert the stiff wire before I cut the hole to see how far I could go with the wires. I found that I could not go very far, the wire will buckle and it is difficult to control the direction. So I settled to the distance I think is ok. The results: supervisor is happy, happy wife, happy life!
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:40 PM   #28
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Thanks to Rick and Jim for blazing the way for retro-fitting lights.

I got a start on that job today. It took a while before I was satisfied that I had a centerline that was equidistant from the cabinets. I always notice when things are crooked so I didn't want to be relaxing in the dinette and notice the light was crooked

If I was a scotch drinker I'd have definetly taken a drink or two before cutting into the vinyl

The backing block fits but it's freezing cold today so I'll warm things up and glue it in tomorrow.

So far, so good.

Ron
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:21 PM   #29
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I did essentially what Ron just showed, although in a different brand of trailer. I was mounting a fluorescent light fixture. I used PL 700 adhesive because it is specifically suited to bonding wood (my backing block) to plastic (the fiberglass resin). It stayed there for a few years, then fell off over the winter; the adhesive all stayed on the wood, cleanly parting from the fiberglass shell. Maybe I needed to roughen the fiberglass surface?
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I did essentially what Ron just showed, although in a different brand of trailer. I was mounting a fluorescent light fixture. I used PL 700 adhesive because it is specifically suited to bonding wood (my backing block) to plastic (the fiberglass resin). It stayed there for a few years, then fell off over the winter; the adhesive all stayed on the wood, cleanly parting from the fiberglass shell. Maybe I needed to roughen the fiberglass surface?
.
Besides roughening the surface, the fiberglass needs to be "cleaned" with alcohol or acetone to remove resin remains.
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