Adding After Market Front Storage Box - Page 4 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 06-15-2014, 06:24 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
Does the trailer not require a frame modification to take the front storage box? I thought the frame was extended a little to accommodate the box...
Unlike the enormous thing available on the front of a 25 foot Bigfoot (25B25), the Escape box doesn't involve any frame lengthening... but there are brackets to consider.
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:36 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Unlike the enormous thing available on the front of a 25 foot Bigfoot (25B25), the Escape box doesn't involve any frame lengthening... but there are brackets to consider.
Depends on the year of the build. If purchasing a used trailer, it may require a change to the front of the frame. Starting with turning the bottles.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:46 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
but there are brackets to consider.
Yes, there are, up to mine but not anymore after mine

Before mine, it was common practice to weld on two transverse pieces of angle iron to support the batteries if a tongue box wasn't ordered.

I asked them not to weld on the angle iron because I knew that I was going to fabricate a tongue box and I would have to cut them off or put large slots in the bottom of the box. They bolted the angle iron on to hold the battery and when I got it home I unbolted the angle iron, chucked it, and put on my tongue box.

I talked to Dennis at the Rally. He said that bolting instead of welding has now become the way they do it. So any trailers ordered in the future without a tongue box have easy to remove battery supports.

If you have the previous version and want to add a tongue box you have three choices: slot the bottom of a box so it fits over angle iron: install blocks of wood so the bottom of the box is above the angle iron or buy, if you don't have one, a cheap angle grinder and cut the welds.

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Old 06-15-2014, 08:46 PM   #34
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Hi: Marksalot... I'm old enough to remember what cars from the 30's looked like. A trunk was usually just that a trunk strapped to the rear of the car.
One thing the 5.0TA has is storage. We just don't have enough STUFF!!! Alf
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Cars from the 30s are some of the best lookin vehicles ever built, (before my time tho) but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Fiberglass sure does look great. I try to find a balance of stuff. It's an ever changing game of, do I really need this? I focus on having a good time and stayin healthy.
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:55 PM   #35
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I'm old enough to remember what cars from the 30's looked like. A trunk was usually just that a trunk strapped to the rear of the car.
Yes, but the car body ended right behind the wheels, and there was no storage space in the body. It's quite different with a trailer.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:53 AM   #36
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Cutting slots makes the most sense to me and that's what I did. Slots act as drain and as position holders for the box. My battery containers just need longer bolts. Of course, my box is made with wood.
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Old 04-12-2015, 04:48 PM   #37
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No one be OFFENDED. But I think rear storage boxes destroy the looks of these beautiful trailers.... but, I do understand the need for more storage expecially for "icky" things.
Well, I'm sorry to Offend" (Wow, I actually used an emoticon) but I added a StowAway II box to my 17B. The reason is I wanted some additional outside storage for a small propane tank for my stove & grill, and an additional fuel can for the trips where my 15 gallon tow vehicle tank is a bit scary.

Some general information for those thinking about the box:

StowAway recommended the swing version, which is heavier than their standard mount, but they felt I would not be able to open the top if I purchased the standard version unless I added an extension that left the box hanging out too far from the back of the trailer. I believe I could have gotten away with the standard non swinging version and saved some weight; the next time I get to Oregon I might stop by to see them & see if I can work out a lighter solution. I ended up adding a total of 145 lbs (box & stuff) to the trailer weight.

I also had to make a new hole in the Escape for a 4 pin trailer hookup for the lights on the StowAway II box. I didn't really need the lights on the box for the running & brake lights since I have the upper LED lights on the trailer, but I'm concerned that someone is going to insist that I move the license plate to the box. I can see it next to the box, but I have no idea what different "authorities" feel is proper visibility. I'd rather not move it since I'd have to relocate it each time I added or removed the box.

I did have to move some stuff around to get the tongue weight back up to an acceptable amount. Currently, the trailer weighs in at 3140 lbs, and the tongue at 335 lbs. The trailer handles well, with no sway from trucks etc (although I do tow at 55 - 60 MPH.)
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:06 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
Does the trailer not require a frame modification to take the front storage box? I thought the frame was extended a little to accommodate the box...

If that memory is accurate, you might not be able to add the box after the fact...
I believe the 17' requires a frame modification.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:08 PM   #39
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No one be OFFENDED. But I think rear storage boxes destroy the looks of these beautiful trailers.... but, I do understand the need for more storage expecially for "icky" things.
I do, also, as far as front box, too. But now that we have used one, it seems as if all of those chocks and blocks and slinky stuff need to be kept outside.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:21 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Floating Cloud View Post
I believe the 17' requires a frame modification.
Since only one length is specified by Escape for each model, I don't think even the 17' gets a frame stretch to accommodate the box (it's relatively shallow front-to-back), so any modification should just be to brackets.
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