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Old 06-06-2016, 02:32 PM   #61
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Can you easily remove the box to access the spare?
I found I couldn't turn the tire wrench on mine. I had to alter the set-up so that I could take the box off the rack.
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Old 06-06-2016, 02:40 PM   #62
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I think what I would do if I needed storage back there is remove the spare from its bracket and home-build a tall box that sat on the bumper. Then mount the spare on the front of the box.
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Old 06-06-2016, 02:42 PM   #63
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Everything inside the storage box will be inside two bins that can be easily lifted out. Then it is as simple as loosening the outboard hitch tightener and unlocking and pulling the outer hitch pin and whole rack will slide out. Not terribly convenient, but something we are willing to deal with in the (hopefully unlikely) event of a flat.
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Old 06-06-2016, 02:58 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
We moved the box as close to the tire as possible while still retaining the ability to open the lid enough for full functionality. Dual hitch locks and hitch tighteners are used on an 8" hitch extension.
If you re-mounted the spare much lower, and off to one side (preferably toward the side which currently carries less load) so it clears the hitch, could you use half as much extension and still fully open the lid (over the tire, instead of behind it)? The tire would be behind the bumper and very low, but if anything drags in a dip, it seems likely to be the box. The box could even be raised by an offset extension to help clearance.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:48 PM   #65
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I think what I would do if I needed storage back there is remove the spare from its bracket and home-build a tall box that sat on the bumper. Then mount the spare on the front of the box.
I think that's probably similar to what I'd do also if I wanted a rear box plus the spare. I'd probably just weld a 2" square tube to the bottom of the spare tire holder and use the receiver for it.

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Old 06-06-2016, 04:56 PM   #66
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I think what I would do if I needed storage back there is remove the spare from its bracket and home-build a tall box that sat on the bumper. Then mount the spare on the front of the box.
I think that would look better too, as well as put the weight of the box and contents forward. Maybe if there was room, the spare could go in the box too.
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:12 PM   #67
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Honda 0234 over on FGRV cut a plastic box and mounted it around his spare on the back of a Scamp, looks real cool like the old time car "continental" kits The Continental Kit – “That Tire On The Back:” By Rick Feibusch - forgottenfiberglass.com
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:18 PM   #68
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Does someone have the dimensions of the ETI storage box for a 17? I wonder if it is deep enough to store our chairs.
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Old 06-07-2016, 02:09 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
If you re-mounted the spare much lower, and off to one side (preferably toward the side which currently carries less load) so it clears the hitch, could you use half as much extension and still fully open the lid (over the tire, instead of behind it)? The tire would be behind the bumper and very low, but if anything drags in a dip, it seems likely to be the box. The box could even be raised by an offset extension to help clearance.
Thanks for the advice. I looked at this closer and the furthest outboard part of the fixed support bracket would be most prone to hitting pavement before it sweeps up with a 7" rise to the box mount. I'm taking your suggestion and moving the tire over and down just a couple of inches. This will allow for a 10" rise receiver adapter. This will place the box just high enough for the lid to open over the tire and it will move the box forward against the tire.

I could only find one 10" rise adapter that will work. The only modification necessary will be drilling a new hole on the lower shank so the adapter can be fully inserted into the Escape receiver. Depends exactly where we drill the hole, but at a minimum it will be a 6.25" extension. This will set the face of the extended receiver just behind the outboard face of the tire by about a 1/2" which is perfect.

BX88132 10” Rise/Drop Receiver, 5,000 lbs, 10-1/2” long | Blue Ox

I'll try to post a pic or two of the "final" set up.
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:42 PM   #70
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Here is a picture of the final setup utilizing the Stowaway cargo box. The Blue Ox 10" rise receiver worked out perfectly. Tire was moved over a few inches on a new bracket (towards the passenger side) to clear the riser. Hitch pin hole was redrilled to be as outboard as possible to clear tire. Tire height was not changed. This setup puts the box up higher so it is not prone to dragging in a dip and as close to the tire as possible to reduce the cantilever effect. The cargo box lid also now fully opens over the top of the tire. Thanks Brian B-P for the suggestions!
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:44 PM   #71
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One more pic

Shot of box opening over tire
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:56 PM   #72
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Here is a picture of the final setup utilizing the Stowaway cargo box. The Blue Ox 10" rise receiver worked out perfectly.
...
I'm glad to see it worked out, and everything does look like it fits together nicely. Thanks for sharing the result!

It looks like Blue Ox makes these receiver adapters in 2" increment of rise (which they expect you to use to drop the receiver height for their towbars), so it looks like if someone wanted to go a little lower (but not too low for departure angle clearance), an adapter with eight-inch drop could be used... but the spare tire holder would need to be cut down to match and clearance of the tire to the bumper would need to be watched.
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Old 06-19-2016, 05:59 AM   #73
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I was contemplating the 8" rise, but the working box height was fine with the 10" during initial measurements and we didn't need to lower the tire.
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Old 09-23-2018, 04:53 PM   #74
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I have been reading different threads about adding hitch storage and like the idea of a Stowaway II on the back of my 17B for some trips. There was a $50 off sale so I did my usual thing of buy now, work out the details later.

Like others I didn't want to get the swingaway frame since you lose 29 lbs. of carrying capacity. I think I can still get everything in it with the lid only opening part way, but what about this option, turning it around?! It fits and mounts exactly the same since the holes are centered over the frame.

Yeah, it would look goofy and you might have to install lights, but the access is still very easy and I wouldn't have to extend it or raise it or both or move the spare tire.

Or do I really need the lights since I have the upper light option? I plan on running this by the highway patrol or whomever to see what is required by law. I currently don't have a 4-pin connector on the trailer so would need to get that installed any way I turn it.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:14 PM   #75
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See if you can undo the nuts holding the spare tire on. I have X and L-shaped lug wrenches and neither is free to turn enough to get the spare off with my box in place.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:21 PM   #76
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You can mount the spare under the tongue as Ed (Eggscape) did. I Monte's mine under the front of my trailer as I don't have a tongue.
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:11 PM   #77
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I'd probably mount running lights with 12V only to the rear of the box since that would be simple. You've already got the higher lights for braking, turning, etc.
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:42 PM   #78
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See if you can undo the nuts holding the spare tire on. I have X and L-shaped lug wrenches and neither is free to turn enough to get the spare off with my box in place.
Didn't think to check that yet, but will. I would just take the box off to get to the spare tire if a problem.

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You can mount the spare under the tongue as Ed (Eggscape) did. I Monte's mine under the front of my trailer as I don't have a tongue.
I've been looking around to see if there's another place for the tire. I'll check his out.

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I'd probably mount running lights with 12V only to the rear of the box since that would be simple. You've already got the higher lights for braking, turning, etc.
Good idea. Thanks.

I have been putting various things in the box and think I will really like it. Since I'm still doing some invasive plant killing and other work on my property, taking stuff like my backpack sprayer and battery-powered weedwhacker in it instead of inside the trailer is going to be nice.
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:32 AM   #79
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Like others I didn't want to get the swingaway frame since you lose 29 lbs. of carrying capacity. I think I can still get everything in it with the lid only opening part way, but what about this option, turning it around?! It fits and mounts exactly the same since the holes are centered over the frame.

Yeah, it would look goofy and you might have to install lights, but the access is still very easy and I wouldn't have to extend it or raise it or both or move the spare tire.

Or do I really need the lights since I have the upper light option? I plan on running this by the highway patrol or whomever to see what is required by law. I currently don't have a 4-pin connector on the trailer so would need to get that installed any way I turn it.
Linda: As you probably saw I put the Stowaway on and modified it to open over the tire. Good choice not getting the SwingAway setup. Learned from Jon V. on his 17 that it is heavy and not worth the hassle. Yes, it took some work to move the tire over and lift the box up with a quite expensive Blue Ox rise/drop receiver. The Blue Ox piece and the Stowaway frame were both drilled with new hitch pin holes to get the assembly as close to the tire as possible. If you don't want to do all that then I would suggest relocating the tire (even into the back of the tow vehicle if possible). This way you can turn the box around properly and open it fully. I don't think you need the lights to be legal since you have the upper and lower lights already, but the lights built into the box are nice to have. Personally I would wire up the 4 pin and get those working. LED wasn't an option when I ordered, but I see they offer it now. I just upgraded to the LED because the incandescent style was sealed and the bulbs were problematic.

By the way, our box stays on the trailer all the time. If you are only going to use it periodically and remove it when not in use then all of the above may not be worth it for you.
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:29 AM   #80
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I did thoroughly study what you did, Rubicon, and Jon V. too. Very nice job. I figured I could get the Blue Ox riser too but not sure if that might put the box a little too high for me since I'm only 5' 4". I will do some measuring now that I have the box.

I can't move the tire over since I have the batteries on the back. I hate to move it into the back of the Jeep since that's my whole goal, to get more things out of the back of the Jeep. I have limited room behind two dog crates but have been using it for the grill, little propane tank, chairs, kayak seat, etc.

I probably will get wired up for the 4 pin just to keep my options open. I do think I won't use the box for every trip and I probably need to remove it after each trip so I can get both vehicles out of the garage with the trailer in the driveway. I intend to build a cart to slide under the box then slide it off and wheel it into the garage. Pretty sure I won't be able to wrangle it off and inside any other way.
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