Adding The Power Bathroom Vent to a 17B - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 05-29-2016, 02:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Another alternative is what I did with the MaxxFan on my Boler: I set T-nuts into the bottom of a wooden frame like this and used Robertson-drive pan-head machine screws (instead of wood/metal/self-tapping screws) so this added inside frame is bolted to the fan's outside flange. No thread stripping, no screw slipping, and as much clamping force as you want to apply.

I didn't see any need to stick the frame up there - the MaxxFan frame is installed on the outside before the fan unit is dropped into it, so you can stand inside and hold the inside part in place while starting the screws. Between a wood frame on the inside and the underside of the shell is not a weather seal, so I didn't want to deal with any kind of good and chose not to.
I was thinking the Escape outside top flange to be adhered with a adhesive instead of the butyl because I don't want it to move and I can't see removing it ever . Wasn't the butyl used because eventually you were going to have to replace the 9 in vent , and you had to remove the vent as a unit . The new fan can be changed out and it breaks down to replaceable pieces , so that would just be screwed to flange .I will add a frame inside outside and shower top for screws to bite into . I was also thinking to use dicor caulking on all screws and the outside edge . What do you think Brian ? Pat
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:25 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Another alternative is what I did with the MaxxFan on my Boler: I set T-nuts into the bottom of a wooden frame like this and used Robertson-drive pan-head machine screws (instead of wood/metal/self-tapping screws) so this added inside frame is bolted to the fan's outside flange. No thread stripping, no screw slipping, and as much clamping force as you want to apply.
I like that approach. It would make an even stronger clamp than using the screws. I'll try that on my next one. I'd probably still tack the wooden frame up so I wouldn't need a second person inside to get the initial bolts started.
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:35 PM   #13
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I'd probably still tack the wooden frame up so I wouldn't need a second person inside to get the initial bolts started.
That makes sense, particularly with something that stays soft and can be removed later. I have never had a hand from anyone else with anything I've done on an RV, so it can be done solo; that doesn't mean that it is convenient.
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:11 PM   #14
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I was thinking the Escape outside top flange to be adhered with a adhesive instead of the butyl because I don't want it to move and I can't see removing it ever .
Never say Never!
There are better adhesive sealants than butyl, but I would want a sticky sealant, rather than a structural adhesive... particularly since the stuff doesn't need to keep anything from moving.

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Wasn't the butyl used because eventually you were going to have to replace the 9 in vent , and you had to remove the vent as a unit . The new fan can be changed out and it breaks down to replaceable pieces , so that would just be screwed to flange .
Butyl putty is used in RVs mostly because it is cheap, and it works adequately. I think the fact that it can be removed is almost a fortuitous accident.

The ability to remove the fan unit for service, repair, or even complete replacement is great. I'm not sure that I would want to bet that there would never be another type of vent that I would want, or that the MaxxFan design would never change, or that the MaxxFan flange would never need replacement.

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I was also thinking to use dicor caulking on all screws and the outside edge . What do you think Brian ?
I used butyl putty tape under my MaxxAir flange. The putty certainly degrades where exposed, so a sealant bead protecting it makes sense to me; I kept the putty short of the flange edge and ran a bead of sealant (sorry, can't remember what kind) around the outside edge. I hate gunk over screw heads, each screw is surrounded by sealant under the flange, I put a dab of sealant under each screw head, and water of course can't go through the screw itself... so I skipped the gooping over top of the screws.

This installation is still sound and shows no signs of leaks, after nine years of sitting outside year-round.

Most of the Dicor stuff seems to be made specifically for a rubber RV roof, and the cover-it-in-goop method used to seal stuff to them. There are lots of other brands and types, but other than avoiding regular silicone products I don't have a good comparison done.
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:54 PM   #15
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Never say Never!
There are better adhesive sealants than butyl, but I would want a sticky sealant, rather than a structural adhesive... particularly since the stuff doesn't need to keep anything from moving.


Butyl putty is used in RVs mostly because it is cheap, and it works adequately. I think the fact that it can be removed is almost a fortuitous accident.

The ability to remove the fan unit for service, repair, or even complete replacement is great. I'm not sure that I would want to bet that there would never be another type of vent that I would want, or that the MaxxFan design would never change, or that the MaxxFan flange would never need replacement.


I used butyl putty tape under my MaxxAir flange. The putty certainly degrades where exposed, so a sealant bead protecting it makes sense to me; I kept the putty short of the flange edge and ran a bead of sealant (sorry, can't remember what kind) around the outside edge. I hate gunk over screw heads, each screw is surrounded by sealant under the flange, I put a dab of sealant under each screw head, and water of course can't go through the screw itself... so I skipped the gooping over top of the screws.

This installation is still sound and shows no signs of leaks, after nine years of sitting outside year-round.

Most of the Dicor stuff seems to be made specifically for a rubber RV roof, and the cover-it-in-goop method used to seal stuff to them. There are lots of other brands and types, but other than avoiding regular silicone products I don't have a good comparison done.
Brian I know there is a good possibility in the future max fans will be replaced but I am talking about the the manufactured piece Escape made to cover up the square hole that was there for the 9 in vent . That piece is fiberglass and now will become part of the trailer , where you will install the round fan to . I really don't ever see a need to remove the manufactured piece . You would just need to unscrew the fan for replacement if needed . So I thought making that piece more permanent . Pat
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:56 PM   #16
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Brian I know there is a good possibility in the future max fans will be replaced but I am talking about the the manufactured piece Escape made to cover up the square hole that was there for the 9 in vent . That piece is fiberglass and now will become part of the trailer , where you will install the round fan to . I really don't ever see a need to remove the manufactured piece . You would just need to unscrew the fan for replacement if needed . So I thought making that piece more permanent . Pat
Jon had posted pics of the pieces from Escape to add the bath fan , getting rid of the 9 in vent . I had too when I ordered from Escape . Pat
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Old 05-29-2016, 05:11 PM   #17
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Brian I know there is a good possibility in the future max fans will be replaced but I am talking about the the manufactured piece Escape made to cover up the square hole that was there for the 9 in vent . That piece is fiberglass and now will become part of the trailer , where you will install the round fan to . I really don't ever see a need to remove the manufactured piece .
Ah, right, that part makes sense.

The rest of the reasoning works whether it is the MaxxFan or the round bathroom vent fan, in either location.
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Old 05-29-2016, 05:39 PM   #18
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Ah, right, that part makes sense.

The rest of the reasoning works whether it is the MaxxFan or the round bathroom vent fan, in either location.
I know I sometimes ask in a confusing matter . How about 3m for the piece I want to adher and be permenant to trailer ? Pat
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Old 05-30-2016, 02:32 AM   #19
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How about 3m for the piece I want to adher and be permenant to trailer ?
I assume you mean 3M's VHB tape. I haven't used it, but it seems like a strong solution to me. My concern would be getting the transition piece in place without being able to shift it at all - the tape grabs immediately. Perhaps the edges should still be sealed, as weathering at the edge appears to be how VHB fails.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:11 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
I was thinking the Escape outside top flange to be adhered with a adhesive instead of the butyl because I don't want it to move and I can't see removing it ever . Wasn't the butyl used because eventually you were going to have to replace the 9 in vent , and you had to remove the vent as a unit . The new fan can be changed out and it breaks down to replaceable pieces , so that would just be screwed to flange .I will add a frame inside outside and shower top for screws to bite into . I was also thinking to use dicor caulking on all screws and the outside edge . What do you think Brian ? Pat


When I spoke to Barbara at ETI she said to seal the flange with an adhesive caulk. I think she recommended Proflex but I used Loctite PL Marine Sealant since I had it on hand.
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