Adding The Power Bathroom Vent to a 17B

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Daubsy

When I spoke to Barbara at ETI she said to seal the flange with an adhesive caulk. I think she recommended Proflex but I used Loctite PL Marine Sealant since I had it on hand.

That was what I was thinking to use the proflex for sealing the fan flange down , or 3m 4000. That answers my question though to seal flange to trailer . There was no instructions .Thankyou . Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I assume you mean 3M's VHB tape. I haven't used it, but it seems like a strong solution to me. My concern would be getting the transition piece in place without being able to shift it at all - the tape grabs immediately. Perhaps the edges should still be sealed, as weathering at the edge appears to be how VHB fails.

My fault again Brian . I should finish my sentences . I have some 3 m tape but I won't use to adher flange to roof though . I probably will use proflex . Pat

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Daubsy

When I spoke to Barbara at ETI she said to seal the flange with an adhesive caulk. I think she recommended Proflex but I used Loctite PL Marine Sealant since I had it on hand.

Since i still had 99% of the tube of self leveling caulk left after covering the screws, I went back and ran a bead along the edges of the fiberglass. I'm sure the butyl tape would prevent leaks, but since I had to fix leaks around the old vent twice while on the road (which appeared to be attached/caulked with ProFlex), I decided to be sure. Let's hope I never have to take it off!

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Since i still had 99% of the tube of self leveling caulk left after covering the screws, I went back and ran a bead along the edges of the fiberglass. I'm sure the butyl tape would prevent leaks, but since I had to fix leaks around the old vent twice while on the road, I decided to be sure. Let's hope I never have to take it off!

Jon how you installed should be fine . I wanted to take a different approach because I see no reason to ever remove the flange . Sealing up along the edge was a good idea . That 9 in vent which degrades just with uv's was always going to be a problem . This fix should not give us any problems . Pat

[rubicon327]

Followed Jon's lead and added the bath fan to replace the original (leaking) 9 inch static vent. Kit came from Escape. I followed Jon's instructions that he graciously posted on his website and also added some wood blocking to the underside that was suggested by Greg in this thread. The only other difference was the routing for electrical since this is a 19. In our trailer there is a short exposed loom of wire in the wardrobe that feeds the light. I was able to use a flat fish and easily get the wiring over the bath liner and then make connections. I actually fed the wire from the wardrobe into the bath via the existing hole behind the light, made connections and then pushed them back through to reside in the wall. It was not worth the hassle of trying to get a dedicated line to the power center. I also noticed a set of wires in the ceiling space that appears to feed the Maxx Fan but it was tight and there was no slack to work with.

This fan is a nice addition. It is rated at 100 cfm drawing 1.5 amps. It operates smoothly and quietly. As Jon pointed out this fan (and parts) are available independent of Escape but you really need the fiberglass pieces for a seamless retrofit installation. The outside piece has a ridge that raises up the fan so it sits flush in the bath. This is the fan used and also should be a direct replacement for those with newer trailer with a stock bath fan:

Ventline Vanair Trailer Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - 6-1/4" Diameter - Smoke Ventline RV Vents and Fans VP-543SP

I did not paint the smoke cover white like Jon as I like how it allows some light into the bath. Haven't installed the bath window (yet).

Was also busy working on putting a vent in where we removed the overhead A/C so I failed to take a picture of the finished plate/trim on the inside. My father took the time to cut the plate supplied by Escape and fit it within the original trim piece. Looks really good. The outside was sealed with butyl tape (and a few extra screws...yeah I know) and will be sealed with Proflex around all edges and over all screws.

I'm not sure when Escape started adding these fans stock but Pat with a 2013 implies he still has the vent so it appears there are a lot of trailers where this could be a potential upgrade.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Followed Jon's lead and added the bath fan to replace the original (leaking) 9 inch static vent. Kit came from Escape. I followed Jon's instructions that he graciously posted on his website and also added some wood blocking to the underside that was suggested by Greg in this thread. The only other difference was the routing for electrical since this is a 19. In our trailer there is a short exposed loom of wire in the wardrobe that feeds the light. I was able to use a flat fish and easily get the wiring over the bath liner and then make connections. I actually fed the wire from the wardrobe into the bath via the existing hole behind the light, made connections and then pushed them back through to reside in the wall. It was not worth the hassle of trying to get a dedicated line to the power center. I also noticed a set of wires in the ceiling space that appears to feed the Maxx Fan but it was tight and there was no slack to work with.

This fan is a nice addition. It is rated at 100 cfm drawing 1.5 amps. It operates smoothly and quietly. As Jon pointed out this fan (and parts) are available independent of Escape but you really need the fiberglass pieces for a seamless retrofit installation. The outside piece has a ridge that raises up the fan so it sits flush in the bath. This is the fan used and also should be a direct replacement for those with newer trailer with a stock bath fan:

Ventline Vanair Trailer Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - 6-1/4" Diameter - Smoke Ventline RV Vents and Fans VP-543SP

I did not paint the smoke cover white like Jon as I like how it allows some light into the bath. Haven't installed the bath window (yet).

Was also busy working on putting a vent in where we removed the overhead A/C so I failed to take a picture of the finished plate/trim on the inside. My father took the time to cut the plate supplied by Escape and fit it within the original trim piece. Looks really good. The outside was sealed with butyl tape (and a few extra screws...yeah I know) and will be sealed with Proflex around all edges and over all screws.

I'm not sure when Escape started adding these fans stock but Pat with a 2013 implies he still has the vent so it appears there are a lot of trailers where this could be a potential upgrade.

Nice work . Great idea of Gregg's adding the wood framing .Love to see pictures of of finished vent for AC opening also . Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Nice work . Great idea of Gregg's adding the wood framing .Love to see pictures of of finished vent for AC opening also . Pat

Thanks. Just posted it!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post183339

[Greg A]

Very nice job on the retrofit. The fan is such a nice upgrade over the stock vent it should be high on the to do list for anyone with the old style bath vent.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Followed Jon's lead and added the bath fan to replace the original (leaking) 9 inch static vent. Kit came from Escape. I followed Jon's instructions that he graciously posted on his website and also added some wood blocking to the underside that was suggested by Greg in this thread. The only other difference was the routing for electrical since this is a 19. In our trailer there is a short exposed loom of wire in the wardrobe that feeds the light. I was able to use a flat fish and easily get the wiring over the bath liner and then make connections. I actually fed the wire from the wardrobe into the bath via the existing hole behind the light, made connections and then pushed them back through to reside in the wall. It was not worth the hassle of trying to get a dedicated line to the power center. I also noticed a set of wires in the ceiling space that appears to feed the Maxx Fan but it was tight and there was no slack to work with.

This fan is a nice addition. It is rated at 100 cfm drawing 1.5 amps. It operates smoothly and quietly. As Jon pointed out this fan (and parts) are available independent of Escape but you really need the fiberglass pieces for a seamless retrofit installation. The outside piece has a ridge that raises up the fan so it sits flush in the bath. This is the fan used and also should be a direct replacement for those with newer trailer with a stock bath fan:

Ventline Vanair Trailer Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - 6-1/4" Diameter - Smoke Ventline RV Vents and Fans VP-543SP

I did not paint the smoke cover white like Jon as I like how it allows some light into the bath. Haven't installed the bath window (yet).

Was also busy working on putting a vent in where we removed the overhead A/C so I failed to take a picture of the finished plate/trim on the inside. My father took the time to cut the plate supplied by Escape and fit it within the original trim piece. Looks really good. The outside was sealed with butyl tape (and a few extra screws...yeah I know) and will be sealed with Proflex around all edges and over all screws.

I'm not sure when Escape started adding these fans stock but Pat with a 2013 implies he still has the vent so it appears there are a lot of trailers where this could be a potential upgrade.

Just the fellow I need some information from . Yesterday I pulled the 9 in vent from our trailer . Good thing even though 3 years old plastic was getting brittle . Had to work today so will get back to trailer tomorrow . Have about half the Proflex or whatever it is off . Will finish that in morning . In our opening I can see the insulation . Did you have that too ? Did you make a larger hole behind bath fan or in the closet or both ? I want to bring wire out closet , down in corner to bottom . I made a cabinet down there and moved my detector to other side . I can hook my fan to those wires that don't have the detector on . Running my wires after I get the sealant off is my next step . Any advice ? Thankyou , Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Just the fellow I need some information from . Yesterday I pulled the 9 in vent from our trailer . Good thing even though 3 years old plastic was getting brittle . Had to work today so will get back to trailer tomorrow . Have about half the Proflex or whatever it is off . Will finish that in morning . In our opening I can see the insulation . Did you have that too ? Did you make a larger hole behind bath fan or in the closet or both ? I want to bring wire out closet , down in corner to bottom . I made a cabinet down there and moved my detector to other side . I can hook my fan to those wires that don't have the detector on . Running my wires after I get the sealant off is my next step . Any advice ? Thankyou , Pat

Pat: We did see some insulation but with our "older" trailer it may be different than newer trailers. I did not enlarge the hole behind the bath light. This was possible by threading the new power line through the "double wall" from the wardrobe with the existing light power wire and making connections in the bathroom and then pushing everything back into the wall cavity. I did what I describe above in my post. It was easy to use a flat fish and get the power wires from the fan over the bath and over the wall into the wardrobe. It sounds feasible to connect to your old detector wires down below but why not leave them there for future? I'm also not sure what circuit that branch is on and how it is fused. The draw of the fan is so small I would just piggyback on the light circuit personally.

Also when you screw in the top adaptor plate you will see that providing some wood backing is desirable. It is best done with two people - one inside holding and lining up the wood while someone outside inserts the screws.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Pat: We did see some insulation but with our "older" trailer it may be different than newer trailers. I did not enlarge the hole behind the bath light. This was possible by threading the new power line through the "double wall" from the wardrobe with the existing light power wire and making connections in the bathroom and then pushing everything back into the wall cavity. I did what I describe above in my post. It was easy to use a flat fish and get the power wires from the fan over the bath and over the wall into the wardrobe. It sounds feasible to connect to your old detector wires down below but why not leave them there for future? I'm also not sure what circuit that branch is on and how it is fused. The draw of the fan is so small I would just piggyback on the light circuit personally.

Also when you screw in the top adaptor plate you will see that providing some wood backing is desirable. It is best done with two people - one inside holding and lining up the wood while someone outside inserts the screws.

Thankyou for the help . I think I will abandon hooking to detector wire as you suggested . I really didn't want to enlarge hole in bath . Did you at all enlarge the fan wire hole in closet ? Definetly will add some wood to screw fiberglass pieces too. I am going to use some. 3 m to attach the top fiberglass roof piece . I see no reason to ever remove it . I will just use butyl to attach fan to roof because in future I may need to remove . Now going out and finish removing the sealant on roof . Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

I really didn't want to enlarge hole in bath . Did you at all enlarge the fan wire hole in closet ?

Pat,
The hole in the wardrobe wall and the bath wall were just large enough to feed the wiring through, make connections and stuff it all back through the hole to reside in the wall cavity. Enlarging the hole isn't too big of a deal though if needed. Good luck.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Pat,
The hole in the wardrobe wall and the bath wall were just large enough to feed the wiring through, make connections and stuff it all back through the hole to reside in the wall cavity. Enlarging the hole isn't too big of a deal though if needed. Good luck.

Getting ready for the wiring . Thankyou , Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Getting ready for the wiring . Thankyou , Pat

Finished finally putting in bath upgrade . It is like I knew there would be problems and there was . First we have reenforced wall there ,suppose to be on bed wall which isn't I could see when I removed refrigerator . well I can now hang what I want on that wall , a positive After trying to get wire in closet and removing bath light , found the light hole was filled with proflex, in the wood . I tried for 6 hours trying to get the wire up and around the bath surround and wood. Not happening even with a flat fish tape . Drilled a few holes , even into our thin 1/16 in , I am being generous roof fiberglass by mistake . NEVER EVER GET ON YOUR ROOF . Next day decided to leave section of wire on shower wall and just cover it up . Rest of install went fine . Went to store and bought a wire run . Decided this morning to return it except for inside corner . Ran a piece of pvc piping through table saw to cut it in half for the wire covers. attached covers to shower wall . looks pretty good we think . Shower never gets wet up the wall anyway . Now have a fan in shower as we always had before . Was disappointed when we saw that 9 in vent . Removed it just in the nick of time because it was already getting brittle . Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Finished finally putting in bath upgrade . It is like I knew there would be problems and there was . First we have reenforced wall there ,suppose to be on bed wall which isn't I could see when I removed refrigerator . well I can now hang what I want on that wall , a positive After trying to get wire in closet and removing bath light , found the light hole was filled with proflex, in the wood . I tried for 6 hours trying to get the wire up and around the bath surround and wood. Not happening even with a flat fish tape . Drilled a few holes , even into our thin 1/16 in , I am being generous roof fiberglass by mistake . NEVER EVER GET ON YOUR ROOF . Next day decided to leave section of wire on shower wall and just cover it up . Rest of install went fine . Went to store and bought a wire run . Decided this morning to return it except for inside corner . Ran a piece of pvc piping through table saw to cut it in half for the wire covers. attached covers to shower wall . looks pretty good we think . Shower never gets wet up the wall anyway . Now have a fan in shower as we always had before . Was disappointed when we saw that 9 in vent . Removed it just in the nick of time because it was already getting brittle . Pat

Oh roof hole already fixed , now waiting for the self leveling lap sealant to arrive and caulk around fiberglass piece in shower . Done !

[rubicon327]

Pat nice work on your fan. There is bracing within the wall. My wiring went over the bath shell then over the wall and down inside the wardrobe then through the wall and connected with wiring at back side of light.

Additional info below from my father who modified the interior trim piece. I like the way yours looks and a little caulk around the edge and your done. The only advantage I see in our method is the fan sits slightly higher. Not sure this is worth all the extra work but I'll post it anyway....

"My thanks to the Jon V., who posted his instructions with pictures on installing this fan kit on his 2011 Escape 17’. I took his good idea on using the original Escape trim piece & did it a little differently. He installed the interior plate from Escape with the round hole for the fan. Over that he screwed on the original square trim plate, but said the fit wasn’t that good. I looked at that set up in our E-19 & agreed, which led to this slight change.

After centering the fan assembly on the roof & then screwing it down, I placed the new Escape plate over the fan on the inside of the bathroom & put 3 screws in to hold it in place. The original trim piece has a curve on one side that matches the curve in the roof. I oriented the trim piece to the curve of the roof. I pushed the trim plate up onto the Escape plate & traced around the trim piece on the inside.

With a fine blade in the jig saw, I carefully cut the 4 sides off, being careful to leave the line on. It almost fit into the original trim piece, but some filing was required. I did a mock up to make sure how high the plate needs to sit in the trim piece. It needed to be level with the top of the trim.

It was epoxyed into that spot. Then I used masking tape all the way around that inside joint on both top & bottom to give me a neat bead of caulk, just the right width.

This took some time & effort, but the piece looks like Reace & Tammy made it as original equipment at the factory. For good measure, a liberal amount of caulk was applied on the other side all the way around the joint. That side won’t be seen. We were both very pleased with the final look & functionality of this bathroom fan as we continue to make Escape’s perfect 19 footer, even more perfect."

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Pat nice work on your fan. There is bracing within the wall. My wiring went over the bath shell then over the wall and down inside the wardrobe then through the wall and connected with wiring at back side of light.

Additional info below from my father who modified the interior trim piece. I like the way yours looks and a little caulk around the edge and your done. The only advantage I see in our method is the fan sits slightly higher. Not sure this is worth all the extra work but I'll post it anyway....

"My thanks to the Jon V., who posted his instructions with pictures on installing this fan kit on his 2011 Escape 17’. I took his good idea on using the original Escape trim piece & did it a little differently. He installed the interior plate from Escape with the round hole for the fan. Over that he screwed on the original square trim plate, but said the fit wasn’t that good. I looked at that set up in our E-19 & agreed, which led to this slight change.

After centering the fan assembly on the roof & then screwing it down, I placed the new Escape plate over the fan on the inside of the bathroom & put 3 screws in to hold it in place. The original trim piece has a curve on one side that matches the curve in the roof. I oriented the trim piece to the curve of the roof. I pushed the trim plate up onto the Escape plate & traced around the trim piece on the inside.

With a fine blade in the jig saw, I carefully cut the 4 sides off, being careful to leave the line on. It almost fit into the original trim piece, but some filing was required. I did a mock up to make sure how high the plate needs to sit in the trim piece. It needed to be level with the top of the trim.

It was epoxyed into that spot. Then I used masking tape all the way around that inside joint on both top & bottom to give me a neat bead of caulk, just the right width.

This took some time & effort, but the piece looks like Reace & Tammy made it as original equipment at the factory. For good measure, a liberal amount of caulk was applied on the other side all the way around the joint. That side won’t be seen. We were both very pleased with the final look & functionality of this bathroom fan as we continue to make Escape’s perfect 19 footer, even more perfect."

Hi . Wouldn't work for me . Solid wood behind shower wall. No chase . Escape just drilled out into wood in closet . No way getting over shower stall . Believe me I tried and tried . Came up with a fix . Also I would of had to cut 1/4 in all the way around to add original plastic plate . Mine is larger . Decided I may just add some white caulking to edge and call it a day . Maybe make a wood frame later . Will see . At least we have a fan now . Pat

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

At least we have a fan now . Pat

Well, that's the important part. Sometimes mods are like the old saying, "When the going gets tough...." It's always a bit of a crap shoot opening up spaces. At any rate it's good to have a fan and get rid of the old brittle vent.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Well, that's the important part. Sometimes mods are like the old saying, "When the going gets tough...." It's always a bit of a crap shoot opening up spaces. At any rate it's good to have a fan and get rid of the old brittle vent.

Ron

Thanks Ron !my new ladder worked out fantastic ! Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Hi . Wouldn't work for me . Solid wood behind shower wall. No chase . Escape just drilled out into wood in closet . No way getting over shower stall . Believe me I tried and tried.

Oh I see with that wall reinforced they must have taken plywood right up tight to the ceiling. The only other way would have been to blindly drill a hole from the wardrobe side up high and pray you were above the shower stall. Send the fish through over to the fan location and pull the wires back.