Adding The Power Bathroom Vent to a 17B - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 05-30-2016, 11:11 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Daubsy View Post
When I spoke to Barbara at ETI she said to seal the flange with an adhesive caulk. I think she recommended Proflex but I used Loctite PL Marine Sealant since I had it on hand.
That was what I was thinking to use the proflex for sealing the fan flange down , or 3m 4000. That answers my question though to seal flange to trailer . There was no instructions .Thankyou . Pat
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:39 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I assume you mean 3M's VHB tape. I haven't used it, but it seems like a strong solution to me. My concern would be getting the transition piece in place without being able to shift it at all - the tape grabs immediately. Perhaps the edges should still be sealed, as weathering at the edge appears to be how VHB fails.
My fault again Brian . I should finish my sentences . I have some 3 m tape but I won't use to adher flange to roof though . I probably will use proflex . Pat
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Old 05-30-2016, 02:26 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Daubsy View Post
When I spoke to Barbara at ETI she said to seal the flange with an adhesive caulk. I think she recommended Proflex but I used Loctite PL Marine Sealant since I had it on hand.
Since i still had 99% of the tube of self leveling caulk left after covering the screws, I went back and ran a bead along the edges of the fiberglass. I'm sure the butyl tape would prevent leaks, but since I had to fix leaks around the old vent twice while on the road (which appeared to be attached/caulked with ProFlex), I decided to be sure. Let's hope I never have to take it off!
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Old 05-30-2016, 02:56 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
Since i still had 99% of the tube of self leveling caulk left after covering the screws, I went back and ran a bead along the edges of the fiberglass. I'm sure the butyl tape would prevent leaks, but since I had to fix leaks around the old vent twice while on the road, I decided to be sure. Let's hope I never have to take it off!
Jon how you installed should be fine . I wanted to take a different approach because I see no reason to ever remove the flange . Sealing up along the edge was a good idea . That 9 in vent which degrades just with uv's was always going to be a problem . This fix should not give us any problems . Pat
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:16 AM   #25
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Followed Jon's lead and added the bath fan to replace the original (leaking) 9 inch static vent. Kit came from Escape. I followed Jon's instructions that he graciously posted on his website and also added some wood blocking to the underside that was suggested by Greg in this thread. The only other difference was the routing for electrical since this is a 19. In our trailer there is a short exposed loom of wire in the wardrobe that feeds the light. I was able to use a flat fish and easily get the wiring over the bath liner and then make connections. I actually fed the wire from the wardrobe into the bath via the existing hole behind the light, made connections and then pushed them back through to reside in the wall. It was not worth the hassle of trying to get a dedicated line to the power center. I also noticed a set of wires in the ceiling space that appears to feed the Maxx Fan but it was tight and there was no slack to work with.

This fan is a nice addition. It is rated at 100 cfm drawing 1.5 amps. It operates smoothly and quietly. As Jon pointed out this fan (and parts) are available independent of Escape but you really need the fiberglass pieces for a seamless retrofit installation. The outside piece has a ridge that raises up the fan so it sits flush in the bath. This is the fan used and also should be a direct replacement for those with newer trailer with a stock bath fan:

Ventline Vanair Trailer Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - 6-1/4" Diameter - Smoke Ventline RV Vents and Fans VP-543SP

I did not paint the smoke cover white like Jon as I like how it allows some light into the bath. Haven't installed the bath window (yet).

Was also busy working on putting a vent in where we removed the overhead A/C so I failed to take a picture of the finished plate/trim on the inside. My father took the time to cut the plate supplied by Escape and fit it within the original trim piece. Looks really good. The outside was sealed with butyl tape (and a few extra screws...yeah I know) and will be sealed with Proflex around all edges and over all screws.

I'm not sure when Escape started adding these fans stock but Pat with a 2013 implies he still has the vent so it appears there are a lot of trailers where this could be a potential upgrade.
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Old 02-20-2017, 11:14 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Followed Jon's lead and added the bath fan to replace the original (leaking) 9 inch static vent. Kit came from Escape. I followed Jon's instructions that he graciously posted on his website and also added some wood blocking to the underside that was suggested by Greg in this thread. The only other difference was the routing for electrical since this is a 19. In our trailer there is a short exposed loom of wire in the wardrobe that feeds the light. I was able to use a flat fish and easily get the wiring over the bath liner and then make connections. I actually fed the wire from the wardrobe into the bath via the existing hole behind the light, made connections and then pushed them back through to reside in the wall. It was not worth the hassle of trying to get a dedicated line to the power center. I also noticed a set of wires in the ceiling space that appears to feed the Maxx Fan but it was tight and there was no slack to work with.

This fan is a nice addition. It is rated at 100 cfm drawing 1.5 amps. It operates smoothly and quietly. As Jon pointed out this fan (and parts) are available independent of Escape but you really need the fiberglass pieces for a seamless retrofit installation. The outside piece has a ridge that raises up the fan so it sits flush in the bath. This is the fan used and also should be a direct replacement for those with newer trailer with a stock bath fan:

Ventline Vanair Trailer Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - 6-1/4" Diameter - Smoke Ventline RV Vents and Fans VP-543SP

I did not paint the smoke cover white like Jon as I like how it allows some light into the bath. Haven't installed the bath window (yet).

Was also busy working on putting a vent in where we removed the overhead A/C so I failed to take a picture of the finished plate/trim on the inside. My father took the time to cut the plate supplied by Escape and fit it within the original trim piece. Looks really good. The outside was sealed with butyl tape (and a few extra screws...yeah I know) and will be sealed with Proflex around all edges and over all screws.

I'm not sure when Escape started adding these fans stock but Pat with a 2013 implies he still has the vent so it appears there are a lot of trailers where this could be a potential upgrade.
Nice work . Great idea of Gregg's adding the wood framing .Love to see pictures of of finished vent for AC opening also . Pat
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Old 02-20-2017, 11:26 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Nice work . Great idea of Gregg's adding the wood framing .Love to see pictures of of finished vent for AC opening also . Pat
Thanks. Just posted it!

Custom Air Conditioning Retrofit
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Old 02-20-2017, 11:57 AM   #28
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Very nice job on the retrofit. The fan is such a nice upgrade over the stock vent it should be high on the to do list for anyone with the old style bath vent.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:55 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Followed Jon's lead and added the bath fan to replace the original (leaking) 9 inch static vent. Kit came from Escape. I followed Jon's instructions that he graciously posted on his website and also added some wood blocking to the underside that was suggested by Greg in this thread. The only other difference was the routing for electrical since this is a 19. In our trailer there is a short exposed loom of wire in the wardrobe that feeds the light. I was able to use a flat fish and easily get the wiring over the bath liner and then make connections. I actually fed the wire from the wardrobe into the bath via the existing hole behind the light, made connections and then pushed them back through to reside in the wall. It was not worth the hassle of trying to get a dedicated line to the power center. I also noticed a set of wires in the ceiling space that appears to feed the Maxx Fan but it was tight and there was no slack to work with.

This fan is a nice addition. It is rated at 100 cfm drawing 1.5 amps. It operates smoothly and quietly. As Jon pointed out this fan (and parts) are available independent of Escape but you really need the fiberglass pieces for a seamless retrofit installation. The outside piece has a ridge that raises up the fan so it sits flush in the bath. This is the fan used and also should be a direct replacement for those with newer trailer with a stock bath fan:

Ventline Vanair Trailer Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - 6-1/4" Diameter - Smoke Ventline RV Vents and Fans VP-543SP

I did not paint the smoke cover white like Jon as I like how it allows some light into the bath. Haven't installed the bath window (yet).

Was also busy working on putting a vent in where we removed the overhead A/C so I failed to take a picture of the finished plate/trim on the inside. My father took the time to cut the plate supplied by Escape and fit it within the original trim piece. Looks really good. The outside was sealed with butyl tape (and a few extra screws...yeah I know) and will be sealed with Proflex around all edges and over all screws.

I'm not sure when Escape started adding these fans stock but Pat with a 2013 implies he still has the vent so it appears there are a lot of trailers where this could be a potential upgrade.
Just the fellow I need some information from . Yesterday I pulled the 9 in vent from our trailer . Good thing even though 3 years old plastic was getting brittle . Had to work today so will get back to trailer tomorrow . Have about half the Proflex or whatever it is off . Will finish that in morning . In our opening I can see the insulation . Did you have that too ? Did you make a larger hole behind bath fan or in the closet or both ? I want to bring wire out closet , down in corner to bottom . I made a cabinet down there and moved my detector to other side . I can hook my fan to those wires that don't have the detector on . Running my wires after I get the sealant off is my next step . Any advice ? Thankyou , Pat
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:28 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Just the fellow I need some information from . Yesterday I pulled the 9 in vent from our trailer . Good thing even though 3 years old plastic was getting brittle . Had to work today so will get back to trailer tomorrow . Have about half the Proflex or whatever it is off . Will finish that in morning . In our opening I can see the insulation . Did you have that too ? Did you make a larger hole behind bath fan or in the closet or both ? I want to bring wire out closet , down in corner to bottom . I made a cabinet down there and moved my detector to other side . I can hook my fan to those wires that don't have the detector on . Running my wires after I get the sealant off is my next step . Any advice ? Thankyou , Pat
Pat: We did see some insulation but with our "older" trailer it may be different than newer trailers. I did not enlarge the hole behind the bath light. This was possible by threading the new power line through the "double wall" from the wardrobe with the existing light power wire and making connections in the bathroom and then pushing everything back into the wall cavity. I did what I describe above in my post. It was easy to use a flat fish and get the power wires from the fan over the bath and over the wall into the wardrobe. It sounds feasible to connect to your old detector wires down below but why not leave them there for future? I'm also not sure what circuit that branch is on and how it is fused. The draw of the fan is so small I would just piggyback on the light circuit personally.

Also when you screw in the top adaptor plate you will see that providing some wood backing is desirable. It is best done with two people - one inside holding and lining up the wood while someone outside inserts the screws.
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