Anchors in floor to tie down generator

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Unavailable at Amazon and Northern Tool, but it looks like Home Depot has them available to order.

Better Built Pop-Up Tie Downs-29910008 - The Home Depot

I just included those as an example of what might be out there in flush-mount pop-ups, not realizing that these specific ones are so big (3.5"x4"x2" deep). Might be some smaller ones, corrosion resistant, in marine/boat supply stores.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by jking1224

Since the tanks are below the floor, it would not be good to mount over them, bolts down into the tanks. However, an Escape 21 has two axles. So, there are two areas specifically with no tanks: directly above the axles. So, 4 anchor points, bolted through the floor, ideally recessed flush with the floor, with fender washers or backing plates underneath, one on each side of the aisle, directly above each axle..

Even better, the fresh water tank is behind the trailing axle, the grey waste tank is ahead of the leading axle, and the black waste tank is above the floor... so there are no tanks in the entire area between the axles, as well as directly over them.

The axles are Dexter Torflex, so the square steel tube that goes across the trailer (below the bottom of the frame) is six inches ahead of the wheel centrelines, so the grey tank is ahead of that. In the back, the freshwater tank normally starts just behind the step in the floor under the dinette, although of course a quick look to confirm would be wise. While you need to watch for plumbing and wiring, there's quite a bit of space where a recessed anchor - or just a through-bolt - could go without interference.

[Brian B-P]

For bicycles, some owners of similar trailers have shared their system in the FiberglassRV forum: they use fork mounts (there are several brands), attached to a board which sized to fit nicely in the floor area - you could anchor that board down.

[float5]

Originally Posted by jking1224

Fine. I wish to carry something _else_ in the trailer.

The question is about anchors in the floor or toe kick area of the cabinets. That is the photo I showed in OP.

I wish to carry large, bulky, tall, long, wide, but completely safe, non-flammable, non-smelly objects. Such as bicycles, stand up paddle boards, my hang glider, clam tent, boxes and bins with t-shirts for a trade show, large delicate artworks and clocks for the art show, lots of photo gear, a large telescope in carry crate, a fouton and other items when I move my kid to college. The actual cargo varies from trip to trip.

Over the axles seems to be the most stable, least bouncy, best load carry capacity, most roomy location. It is a wide, tall, and long area.

What I wish to know is how reasonable is it to mount anchor loops in the floor or toe kick areas?

I would say a no-no to the generator also but as far as any other large objects, I think you are worrying about nothing. I have a ladder in there right now not usually carried and it is sitting on rugs which are sitting on waffle-type rubbery rug pads so the ladder does not move. If I wanted to carry something like it on a big trip, which pretty well fills the aisle side to side, I would simply wrap any possible parts that might hit woodwork with towels and bungies or gear ties or some such and maybe place a plastic tub or two up front or wherever so as to block contact.

Various kinds of items require different measures as to what might do damage in there and placement of such a ring would only suit some items and not others. And still not necessarily prevent the items from doing damage while attached to a ring. Would probably still have to take other measures anyway.

[Donna D.]

I'm with Cathy, I think you're over thinking this. Often if it's raining and I don't want to load up the bed of my truck with items I don't want to get wet, they go into the aisle of Ten Forward. A couple of aluminum folding web chairs, a small folding table, the Lafuma and a cooler. It's a PITA to have that stuff inside, but better than getting soaking wet. And, nothing has moved around to the point the wood work is damaged or it's all piled up at one end or the other. But, I do have a rubber-backed rug runner everything rides on. Maybe that makes a difference?

[NCBill]

Myself I would check with Escape and find out what's behind the wood cabinets around the toe kicks. Its probably reinforced. I would not drill into the floor.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by NCBill

Myself I would check with Escape and find out what's behind the wood cabinets around the toe kicks. Its probably reinforced. I would not drill into the floor.

Or just open those lower cabinet doors and look inside. The framing is pretty much exposed inside there. You will also come across some bolt heads inside the cabinets that will help you orient yourself to where things line up with the chassis mounts under the cabin.

[NW Cat Owner]

I got one of these for my FJ Cruiser for hauling tall wire grid panels that I use at craft shows for sales display. They were held in place with tie-down straps. This was before we got the Tundra where I have lots more room to haul stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe something like this would work for hauling some of your stuff. I know the back bumper is rated for x-amount of weight (I think 200, but someone will correct me if I'm wrong), so you'll need to keep an eye on that.

I had to add an extension to the carrier so I could open the back door on the FJ, but you probably wouldn't need that for the trailer.

I've thought about using it on the trailer, but so far the Tundra has been able to haul all my display pieces, tables and inventory just fine with room to spare.

[NW Cat Owner]

Finally found the photo after much rooting around in a bazillion different folders. It only shows one wire grid panel, but I would put up to 4 on there at once. I also hung some orange tape off the back.

Anyway, it might give you some more ideas and options on how to haul your stuff around.

[MyronL]

Would not drill into the floor to anchor anything. For holding in place anything bulky (bicycles excluded) I put these anchors on both sides of the dinette.

[Ron in BC]

I keep seeing references to screws. My first choice for a strong attachment would be a bolt and fender washer. Actually my first choice would be a bolt through a cross frame member.

If you're going to screw anything down to 1/2" plywood that has to hold a load, especially if it might be subject to a shock load, use a nutsert instead. Much more surface area on the thread.

That's what I used to hold down my custom table base. Still solid as a rock.

Ron

[jking1224]

My latest thinking on this idea is this.

Earlier, I did not realize the cabinets went straight down to the floor. I was assuming there was an overhang "toe kick" area like in typical residential cabinets. Now that I see the cabinets go straight down, the concept of putting the anchor into the floor is less attractive because I would feel it with bare or stocking feet all the time. And any recessed solution would collect dirt more readily.

Second, the area behind the cabinet face is fairly accessible and empty. So, addressing any problems later is possible. Plus, there is what looks like 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) space at the bottom, below any cabinet or drawer face.

This all leads to the idea of recessing the anchor point into the cabinet face, below the drawer or doors. Recess them flush, or as nice as can be. Bolts or screws go through the cabinet face into an "L" bracket on the back side of the cabinet frame.

The "L" bracket is mounted to the floor, immediately behind the cabinet frame, directly above the each axle, using through bolts to the underside, with backing plates on the underside.

By putting them over the axle, it guarantees no interference with underside tanks or other plumbing or wiring.

Since I intend to have the underside foam insulation option, it makes more sense to have the factory install these anchors during construction, rather than do it myself. I don't want to have to cut into the foam to install the underside backing plate. But I could always cut into the foam if I had to address a problem.

By installing in this manner, the strength comes from going all the way through the floor. It does not rely on the strength of the cabinet frame. It allows the anchor points to be recessed for a flush finish, they are vertical so they do not collect dirt. They are not in the floor, so not toe stubbing or snagging of socks.

The factory has agreed to do the install for a fee, subject to seeing the actual hardware chosen and agreeing on the location. I am visiting the factory in person in August and will have hardware in hand to finalize before build sheet sign off.

I am attaching photos of representative hardware so you can see. These are not the final hardware I've selected, just something close enough for demonstration.

recessed anchor:


"L" brackets


Underside backing plates


Tie down locations (approximate)

[Terry H]

Ron in BC, since you mentioned table-base. I am installing a lagun table and to screw down the L bracket to the floor, should I be using this nutsert screw? If so what size should I be getting? The screw you show looks really long, why?

[Ron in BC]

Nutserts have a much larger contact area than screws. In this application, relatively thin plywood they are stronger than screws. Yes, it's what I'd use in that application.

The long machine screw in my "installation tool". I have a proper nutsert tool but this method works fine also. There's probably you tube videos showing how to install them. Dead simple.

Ron

[jking1224]

I have an update on this little project. Back in July, the above discussion took place.

I had some custom steel brackets fabricated. These brackets will "back up" the cabinet facing. They are painted black steel. Then bolt down through the floor with carriage bolts 1/4-20, with fender washers and nylock nuts on the underside. The brackets are like:


user War Eagle found these popup, chrome plated, truck stake pocket, tiedowns. Thanks, I think these are perfect for my use. These mount through the above bracket:


I have received contruction photos from ETI showing the result:



The result is sturdy anchor points, down low, over the axle area. Chrome plated, sleek and "popup" so when not deployed, they will be out of the way, probably hardly noticeable once the cabinet doors are on.
But when popped out for use, they will be sturdy, and not rip the cabinets out as their anchor mechanics is down through the floor.

I have not seen this in person, only my progress photo from ETI. But I like how it appears to have turned out.

[KarenH]

Originally Posted by jking1224

I have not seen this in person, only my progress photo from ETI. But I like how it appears to have turned out.

A great design and not visually intrusive at all. Well done.

[FlaGman]

I love the design, and think it is pretty awesome of ETI’s willingness to implement for you.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by jking1224

I have an update on this little project. Back in July, the above discussion took place.

I had some custom steel brackets fabricated. These brackets will "back up" the cabinet facing. They are painted black steel. Then bolt down through the floor with carriage bolts 1/4-20, with fender washers and nylock nuts on the underside. The brackets are like:


user War Eagle found these popup, chrome plated, truck stake pocket, tiedowns. Thanks, I think these are perfect for my use. These mount through the above bracket:


I have received contruction photos from ETI showing the result:



The result is sturdy anchor points, down low, over the axle area. Chrome plated, sleek and "popup" so when not deployed, they will be out of the way, probably hardly noticeable once the cabinet doors are on.
But when popped out for use, they will be sturdy, and not rip the cabinets out as their anchor mechanics is down through the floor.

I have not seen this in person, only my progress photo from ETI. But I like how it appears to have turned out.

wow - super cool idea, and super cool implementation!

nice!!

wish i had them.

[Brian B-P]

Great job.

[Moaboy]

I carried my Honda generator in the back of my Venza to Alaska and back, no fuss, no muss. Seals tight, never had a problem. Based on that I'd not be too worried about carrying it in the Escape assuming it was secured properly. The only smell, i.e. fumes I ever detected was when I didn't put the gas cap from my gas tank on tight enough(I have one of those "no spill" brands and it works fine -if u tighten the cap enough) and when I filled the gas can the first time and spilled gas on the tank when I was finished. So if one is careful, I'd think one could do it safely, I just prefer to carry my genie in my TV. I actually carry mine on a heavy plastic lid from a large storage container to protect the seat. For my gas can, I now put it in one of those super large plastic bags, just to seal it up. If I were to put my generator in the Escape, I think I'd consider putting it in a large plastic storage container, especially if it one of the smaller generators. Mine is the Handi 3000, which has a pretty stable base albeit w wheels. Of course if the sucker breaks loose, it could do some damage. So make sure it is well anchored. There is more motion "back there" than one realizes.