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Old 07-02-2017, 10:19 AM   #1
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Anchors in floor to tie down generator

I have read some threads on carrying generators, but havent seen many specific responses on how and where people carry their generators.

My thought is the best place to carry a generator is centered over the axles. So, I am wondering if I could get some anchors fixed to the floor, or low in the toe kick area of the cabinets, centered over the axles.

Something like these:


They could be used to tie down any sort of large, bulky object that I happen to carry on a trip.

I don't know what the underlying floor is like in over the axles.

Thoughts on this?
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:29 AM   #2
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Other than the thin wood in the floor, there is not much else. Depending on which Escape model you choose, most have their water/sewerage tanks below the floor. You may do better in the truck bed or putting the genny in a wooden box
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:35 AM   #3
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Other than the thin wood in the floor, there is not much else. Depending on which Escape model you choose, most have their water/sewerage tanks below the floor. You may do better in the truck bed or putting the genny in a wooden box


I have a 21' on order, working on the build sheet still.

If the floor is unsuitable location, what about in the toe kick area of the cabinets.

Forget that its for generators. Any, large bulky item could be carried there. The long, open aisle, which is quite wide as well as tall, could be used to carry any sort of thing. Perhaps a large display for an art show? Bicycles, clam tent, etc.

Having tie downs in the center over the axles seems quite useful.
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:38 AM   #4
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I would not carry a gas generator inside the trailer if for no other reason that I don't think storing / carrying flammable liquids in a trailer is safe. The inside of the trailer could be subject to the buildup of flammable vapors especially on hot sunny days and the smell alone would stop me.
I store gas powered tools in a storage shed and when I open the shed door the smell of gas is horrendous.
I would store the generator on a rack attached to the trailer or in the back of a truck.
It's the same reason you don't store propane in a living space such as inside your house.
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:40 AM   #5
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I would not carry a gas generator inside the trailer if for no other reason that I don't think storing / carrying flammable liquids in a trailer is safe. The inside of the trailer could be subject to the buildup of flammable vapors especially on hot sunny days and the smell alone would stop me.
I store gas powered tools in a storage shed and when I open the shed door the smell of gas is horrendous.
I would store the generator on a rack attached to the trailer or in the back of a truck.
It's the same reason you don't store propane in a living space such as inside your house.
Completely agree. An indoor living space is no place to store gasoline - whether it's in a generator gas tank or not.

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Old 07-02-2017, 11:55 AM   #6
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Fine. I wish to carry something _else_ in the trailer.

The question is about anchors in the floor or toe kick area of the cabinets. That is the photo I showed in OP.

I wish to carry large, bulky, tall, long, wide, but completely safe, non-flammable, non-smelly objects. Such as bicycles, stand up paddle boards, my hang glider, clam tent, boxes and bins with t-shirts for a trade show, large delicate artworks and clocks for the art show, lots of photo gear, a large telescope in carry crate, a fouton and other items when I move my kid to college. The actual cargo varies from trip to trip.

Over the axles seems to be the most stable, least bouncy, best load carry capacity, most roomy location. It is a wide, tall, and long area.

What I wish to know is how reasonable is it to mount anchor loops in the floor or toe kick areas?
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:02 PM   #7
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I carry large object, like chairs, solar panels, flat on the bed. And, I have carried my Honda generator inside the trailer with no fumes or other issues. The Honda has a valve in the gas cap, which when closed, prevents fumes from escaping.
Which doesn't help with a paddle board.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:04 PM   #8
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What I wish to know is how reasonable is it to mount anchor loops in the floor or toe kick areas?
Other things are screwed into the plywood floor, like the table bases, with no issues. Provided you use the right screws, I don't see a problem. Might be a bit of a hassle to clean the recesses though, being mounted on the floor.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:05 PM   #9
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I doubt you can get any of those items inside the door, except for the clam may fit on floor and by using a rug you can keep travel to a minimum. The nice thing about your Escape is it is a home on wheels, not a storage locker. It is so convenient to pull over at a rest stop or scenic overlook, make a sandwich and enjoy lunch. At night, after a long day drive you can sleep peacefully in your own bed. Having to unload storage in the aisles to get access seems strange. Perhaps a cap on your tow vehicle may help with the clocks and other bulky items, but keep your home on wheels clutter free.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:28 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
...most have their water/sewerage tanks below the floor...
Yes, this is useful point. Since the tanks are below the floor, it would not be good to mount over them, bolts down into the tanks. However, an Escape 21 has two axles. So, there are two areas specifically with no tanks: directly above the axles. So, 4 anchor points, bolted through the floor, ideally recessed flush with the floor, with fender washers or backing plates underneath, one on each side of the aisle, directly above each axle.

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......in a wooden box
Yes, some object in a box. I wish to tie the box(es) down so they don't float around. I'll use a rug as you suggest to avoid damaging floor, but it could still slide.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:34 PM   #11
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Jeff, When I asked Reace about the possibility of screwing a partition down to the floor under the bed, he said that shouldn't be a problem at all. The floor is 1/2" plywood over 1/8" fiberglass, and they screw lots of stuff to the floor during construction. He wasn't bothered by the likelihood of a screw going clear through the fiberglass shell as long as there is nothing directly under the floor that the tip of the emerging screw point might hit. As far as opening a path for water to enter up into the camper, his reply was that water wants to go down, not up. Based on that discussion, I think it's your camper and you can mount whatever you want to the floor for whatever reason you choose - just be aware of how long your screws are (or drill bit if you're drilling holes for bolts) and what, if anything, is located below.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:35 PM   #12
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So, who knows specifically what is the floor construction in the middle area of an Escape 21?

Starting at the top, its the linoleum, and on the bottom is the outer shell of fiberglass. But what is between the linoleum and the outer shell and their thicknesses?
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:41 PM   #13
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Jeff, When I asked Reace about the possibility of screwing a partition down to the floor under the bed, he said that shouldn't be a problem at all. The floor is 1/2" plywood over 1/8" fiberglass....
Thanks for your useful response about my question.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:48 PM   #14
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If you do not get the form spray underneath and have access to the trailer over the axles from underneath, then these may work and they are flush mount.... https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-110...cessed+d+rings
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:58 PM   #15
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I was planning on getting the foam insulation. So, that makes it more problematic.

And yes, anchors something like those. I like that they include backing plates and are flush mount. I haven't chosen the exact anchors at this point as I just had the idea this morning. I am thinking something as nice as can be, like chrome plated. And somewhat easy to clean. I know the mounts I have in my Jeep Wrangler and Toyota 4Runner tend to collect dirt, so that is un-avoidable, but should be easy enough to wipe out or vacuum.

Certainly, I could do this myself. But the foam option makes this something I'll ask if the factory could do at build time. I plan to visit the factory in August, so I'll examine an actual 21' then and ask about it.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:00 PM   #16
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Thanks for your useful response about my question.
You're welcome.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:07 PM   #17
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Take the rings with you when you visit, that way they can see exactly what is involved.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:22 PM   #18
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Jeff, How about pop-up tie-downs - something like these?
https://www.amazon.com/Better-Built-.../dp/B00I06ZYRA
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:33 PM   #19
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Jeff, How about pop-up tie-downs - something like these?
https://www.amazon.com/Better-Built-.../dp/B00I06ZYRA
Oh, I like how they are nice and flush and smooth without the typical "bowl" to collect dirt. Won't stub a bare toe when walking around the kitchen. Yes, just something to secure a hook to or run a rope through. These look to be specific to mounting in a "stake pocket" of a pickup truck, and not clear how they popup, do they have a spring? push down to pop up, then push back down to "catch" flush? that is all not clear. And they look "long" underneath, would have to make sure of clearance issues.

So, I like them, but does raise several questions.

Of course, my Amazon shows as "unavailable".

oops, reading the Amazon "questions", it seems like you push down, rotate to pop up them. And some answers refer to a mounting plate, but that is not shown in the photo. Still questions, but on the right track...
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Old 07-02-2017, 02:17 PM   #20
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Of course, my Amazon shows as "unavailable".
Unavailable at Amazon and Northern Tool, but it looks like Home Depot has them available to order.

Better Built Pop-Up Tie Downs-29910008 - The Home Depot
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