Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack Installation - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 06-20-2015, 04:45 PM   #1
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Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack Installation

Got around to installing a power jack today. Found it online for $169 - an Atwood Premier 4000 with the 'Robofoot' that automatically flips up and down to save time.

For those who aren't handy, installing a power jack is a very simple install and takes less than 30 minutes.

First, remove the old jack by removing the foot and the 3 bolts that hold it in place.

Then, drop the new jack in the hole, and secure it with the original bolts, but use star washers under the bolts. They cut into the paint and give the unit a proper ground.

Zip tie the power wire along the A frame rail, routing it toward the battery. In a 19 it's easy since the batteries are in the storage box.

I then drilled a tiny hole in the tongue box, just wide enough to run the 10 gauge power wire through it. It's a tight fit, so no water gets in through the hole.

Crimp a ring terminal on to the end of the power wire and connect it to the positive battery terminal. You're done.

If the power wire supplied by the jack manufacturer is too short, just crimp an extension of 10 gauge wire on the end. If the manufacturer didn't supply an inline fuse for the power wire, it's a good idea to add one. In the case of the Atwood 4000, an inline fuse was provided, and on the 19 the power wire was just long enough without an extension.

I also picked up a custom cover from RV Tailors (they're here in South Texas) made of Sunbrella Fabric to protect the cover from UV.

All in all a quick and simple addition, and alot better than manual cranking - particularly if you have an Andersen Hitch.
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Old 06-20-2015, 04:49 PM   #2
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With the RV Tailors Cover.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:05 PM   #3
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Very nice, a good description of what is required. I have toyed with the idea but on the 21 the batteries are way back, getting electricity, in the proper gauge wire, to the jack has held me up so far.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie View Post
Very nice, a good description of what is required. I have toyed with the idea but on the 21 the batteries are way back, getting electricity, in the proper gauge wire, to the jack has held me up so far.
Yeah, that does make it tougher Paul. For those who are getting a new 21, it's much easier to just have ETI install a power jack if you think you might want one someday. In my case I held off precisely because the install on the 19 was so easy.

I would imagine on the 21 you could run a wire up the back corner behind the trim piece, into the overhead cabinetry - cabinet to cabinet all the way to the front, down behind the corner piece again then out through the front exiting somewhere behind the storage box, then along the frame to the jack? That's sure alot of drilling and routing.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:41 PM   #5
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Went to go check and the wire is in it's own small diameter conduit which enters the floor with two others. Would definitely have it pre-wired at least if I were building a 21. Wonder how AZJack got power for his retrofit.

Also- like this jack foot ETI put on ours: Amazon has it for $22. It provides a good size platform.

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Old 06-20-2015, 05:55 PM   #6
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Great job Robert. I bet you're really going to like that jack when camping in the heat! Those manual jacks, well... what a way to get exercise and work up a sweat.

So, someone tell me if this wouldn't work and why it would be the wrong thing to do.

For those with a 21' that want an electric jack, couldn't you just tap into the battery line in the umbilical? It would be a really, really short run. It's not like you'd be charging the batteries from the tug at the same time you're running the jack up and down. I know nothing about electricity... obviously.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:55 PM   #7
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Nice job!
You will really enjoy the power jack. I even put one on my first 13 Scamp and have been hooked ever since.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:59 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Great job Robert. I bet you're really going to like that jack when camping in the heat! Those manual jacks, well... what a way to get exercise and work up a sweat.

So, someone tell me if this wouldn't work and why it would be the wrong thing to do.

For those with a 21' that want an electric jack, couldn't you just tap into the battery line in the umbilical? It would be a really, really short run. It's not like you'd be charging the batteries from the tug at the same time you're running the jack up and down. I know nothing about electricity... obviously.
An easier solution is to get a power jack that plugs into the 7 pin plug on the tow vehicle, rather than a hard wired one. They put them on flat bed and cargo trailers that don't have a power source. Of course, you have to have the tow vehicle close to the jack, but then there's no wiring at all. Here's an example:

Amazon.com: Jack Quick (JQ-3500B-7P) 12V Electric Tongue Jack with Black Cover and 7-Way Plug - 3650 lb. Load Capacity: Automotive

But, you can tap into the umbilical's power wire as well. You just have to make sure that the ground wire is connected to the trailer frame.
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Great job Robert. I bet you're really going to like that jack when camping in the heat! Those manual jacks, well... what a way to get exercise and work up a sweat.

So, someone tell me if this wouldn't work and why it would be the wrong thing to do.

For those with a 21' that want an electric jack, couldn't you just tap into the battery line in the umbilical? It would be a really, really short run. It's not like you'd be charging the batteries from the tug at the same time you're running the jack up and down. I know nothing about electricity... obviously.
The batteries in a 21 are under the rear passenger side dinette seat, which is at the very rear of the trailer. Would like to hear from Jack as to how he tapped into power.
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Old 06-20-2015, 09:25 PM   #10
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Found it online for $169 -

Where did you find it for $169? Best I've found is $249. Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:03 PM   #11
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Found it online for $169 -

Where did you find it for $169? Best I've found is $249. Thanks.
It was on Ebay. $39 shipping, but still cheaper than the big e-retailers. But, right now it's $212 on Amazon, so that's about the same net price considering the free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/Atwood-81070-W.../dp/B00K8DDAA6
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:32 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
It was on Ebay. $39 shipping, but still cheaper than the big e-retailers. But, right now it's $212 on Amazon, so that's about the same net price considering the free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/Atwood-81070-W.../dp/B00K8DDAA6
Thanks. Don't think I need the 4000 so the 3000 is $170. Etrailer has price match so think I will order from them as they have been great on all previous orders and have free shipping over $99.
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:40 PM   #13
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electric tongue jack

I was on the coast when my shoulder suggested I buy an electric jack. I had Amazon o'nite one to Candle Stick RV park. I installed it the next day after we arrived at the park, but until I got home I just stuck the wire into the 7 pin plug that goes to the trailer battery and held it there while operating the switch. When I got home I put the circuit breaker on the plate between the gas bottles and tied the hot wire into the harness just below the bottles. Works great and my shoulder loves it.
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Old 06-20-2015, 10:56 PM   #14
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I was on the coast when my shoulder suggested I buy an electric jack. I had Amazon o'nite one to Candle Stick RV park. I installed it the next day after we arrived at the park, but until I got home I just stuck the wire into the 7 pin plug that goes to the trailer battery and held it there while operating the switch. When I got home I put the circuit breaker on the plate between the gas bottles and tied the hot wire into the harness just below the bottles. Works great and my shoulder loves it.
Jack
Well there you go. A road ahead for 21 owners.
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:40 PM   #15
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Thanks. Don't think I need the 4000 so the 3000 is $170. Etrailer has price match so think I will order from them as they have been great on all previous orders and have free shipping over $99.
We got the 4000 because it's apparently slightly quieter than the 3000, and it uses a 2 1/4" downtube instead of a 2". You're right about the capacity though - don't need 4K of lifting power.
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:31 AM   #16
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So for those of us with a 21 or 17 and the batteries on the rear there appears to be three choices for a post delivery installation of an electric jack.
  1. Run wires from the battery
  2. Connect to the Bargman connector on the tow vehicle
  3. Connect to the Bargman connector on the trailer
I have purchased these connectors in the past from my local auto store for use on an earlier portable solar panel. They are easy to work with, took a bit of figuring as to what pin was for what but made an easy process of connecting solar.

Since you may not always have the tow vehicle adjacent to the trailer for a connection it seems using the connector on the trailer would be easiest. This would allow you to use the connector (similar to what is on your tow), an advantage is this connector has the door seal, it is designed to get exposed to all sorts of elements and could be mounted somewhere on the tongue. Depending on location and cord length it could also be a place to store the power cord when the trailer is parked.
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:26 AM   #17
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I am thinking of changing out my Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack. It fitted very weill next to the storage box and propane cover, but it is too tall. It prevents my SUV rear door from opening and causes a liitle incomvenience when the trailer is hooked up to TV. I would appreciate any suggestions that forum members can offer a good fit tongue jack. I have researched the internet and found a Barker model 30828, but don't not it will fit next to the propane cover and not too high above the propane cover, so the rear car door can be opened. Thanks.

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Old 02-14-2016, 10:51 PM   #18
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I am thinking of changing out my Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack. It fitted very weill next to the storage box and propane cover, but it is too tall. It prevents my SUV rear door from opening and causes a liitle incomvenience when the trailer is hooked up to TV. I would appreciate any suggestions that forum members can offer a good fit tongue jack. I have researched the internet and found a Barker model 30828, but don't not it will fit next to the propane cover and not too high above the propane cover, so the rear car door can be opened. Thanks.

Tonny LR
Oh that would be a drag... To have the power jack block our SUV tug rear hatch.

May I ask what SUV you have, and did you find a solution?

And.... Perhaps we could have our pending Escape 21' pre-wired for it, but decide when we are there at pick up?

Yes we will keep our current tug many more years. :-)
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:22 AM   #19
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I use the Jack E Up which allows removal of the jack and my tailgate to open. with a power jack just install a quick connect. Jack-E-Up
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:06 AM   #20
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It took me a bit to figure out that the Jack E Up is not an electric jack, rather a manual jack that you can remove. A nice concept but it still requires manual cranking.
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