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Old 09-01-2015, 12:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
And back a few, there is a sticker next to the quick connect in the picture Jim B posted. Says to shut off gas supply before disconnecting appliance. Do you follow those instructions? Does that shut down the fridge every time you disconnect?
I believe that means to shut off the gas supply at the QC, not at the tank. There is a valve there. This is how I have always done it.
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
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I believe that means to shut off the gas supply at the QC, not at the tank. There is a valve there. This is how I have always done it.
That is also how we do it with our QC.

One thing you may want to consider if adding the QC post-build is if you had spray foam insulation added during your build, it could make routing of the propane lines for the QC more challenging. Could impact where you position the QC or may mean that some removal and replacement of insulation could be required.
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:17 PM   #23
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Dave -- hmm. We did indeed have the extra insulation, and I suspect that hacking into it would add just enough headache to make this a no-go. I'll take a look but yeah, the line would be under all that hard "fluff" eh?

Dang!
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:03 PM   #24
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Here's my Weber Q solution. Removed its regulator. Added my own separate Q-connect line between tanks on the tongue.

Most expensive part was the hose. Choose brass fittings with care because they may look all alike but... they are not.
Attached Thumbnails
webrQ1.jpg   Gaslines6.jpg  
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:15 PM   #25
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Myron -- looks like a long hose there. How long does yours run? Again, we aren't mechanically inclined in the least, so if we were to do something like this we'd ask an RV mechanic and would wanna be really specific about parts, etc.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:17 PM   #26
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Ours has a little quarter turn valve ahead of the quick connect. Snap the hose on, turn the valve, enjoy the gas. I use the valve to throttle the output on the campfire in a can. When done, shut off with the valve, disconnect the hose with the coupler. Cover with dust cap. Campfire in a can has regulator removed so the regulator At the tanks is the only one.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:20 PM   #27
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A hose like mine with quick connects at each end can cost $60bucks at a good RV supply store. Got mine online for um, $35 I think. It's about 12 feet long.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:29 PM   #28
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A funny - got the exterior LP option, then had a hose made up locally to connect our devices the week we got home with our brand new 21. First load-up for a camping trip I discovered the ETI matching hose in the bottom drawer of the nightstand. Nobody mentioned a hose was included!!

Fortunately, it was a bit shorter than I wanted for our propane campfire thingy...........
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:31 PM   #29
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Or you could get the right fittings and hook them together and stretch her out to become party central
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:33 PM   #30
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Nice solution, Myron. We did order the quick connect and have a Weber Q so good to see ur pics on the conversion we'll need to do. Your solution at the tanks with the long hose would be what I would copy if I was adding it after build.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:58 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
Are you certain that's a high pressure connection? I thought ETI only did low pressure.
The optional quick-connect is low pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I believe that means to shut off the gas supply at the QC, not at the tank. There is a valve there.
I agree that is likely what is to be shut off. Usually, the way these are constructed you can't pull the collar to connect or disconnect the hose unless the valve handle is turned to the "off" position, so it is idiot-resistant (nothing is idiot-proof )
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:02 PM   #32
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Brian, so if we were willing to pay the $ (and that would depend on how much $ we're talking about), could we have a pro install a T that'd be closer in line with where Reace would have put the connect in, which if I'm right is by the door? Or at this point would we have to T off the front?
I don't see any problem adding a tee fitting to the existing low-pressure plumbing anywhere desired; however it would be easiest where there is already some sort of fitting, and fittings should generally be outside the bodyshell rather than inside. At the front is just the most accessible place, but there's otherwise nothing special about the front.

Although it is common in RVs to run propane lines under the trailer as iron pipe (with pipe-thread joints), and transition to bendable copper tubing and flare joints only to go up into the trailer to each appliance, I believe all Escapes use entirely copper tubing (other than the rubber hoses). If this is correct, the use of copper tubing means that anyone adding to the system needs to work with flare fittings, which means flaring the end of each tube used. Flaring tubing is something that many owners might not be willing to try, and an average plumber doesn't do, but for a gasfitter (a person qualified to provide professional natural gas and propane plumbing services) that should not be an issue at all.

I hope anyone working with services under the trailer such as propane doesn't have the sprayed-on foam insulation - that could be messy to dig into if it covers propane tubing... but the foam is only between the frame rails, so perhaps it's exposed?
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:29 PM   #33
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That page explains that there are high-pressure (at the tank) and low-pressure (after the regulator) options. Both are shown, and in these examples both have quick-connect connections. While the two types of quick-connect look similar, they are not the same, or compatible.

The low-pressure quick-connect hardware is easy to find here. I've never seen the high-pressure quick-connects, and I don't see much point in them since the screw-on connection (like the connection on the end of a one-pound disposable propane cylinder) is so quick and easy to connect and disconnect by hand. Most high-pressure tees use the screw-on connection, not the quick-connect.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:34 AM   #34
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Ok I get confused about all this high low pressure stuff. My campfire in a can came with a hose I attach it to my 10 pound tank and it works great. I wanted to use my weber with the 10pound tank instead of the little disposable tanks so I bought a hose from weber made for my little grill to use to attach it to the tank but I cannot get it to work. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:44 AM   #35
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Possibly. If you open the tank valve too quickly, it can cause the the safety shut off in the tank to deploy, so no gas escapes. I'd shut off the tank, open the Q control to allow any gas in the hose etc. to escape, shut the Q off and then open the tank valve slowly, and try again to light it.
I've got a couple of those hose/adapters and have used them on several different grills, including my Weber, without a problem, so I hope that fixes it.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:47 AM   #36
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Thanks I will try it again
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:54 AM   #37
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You could also try swapping hoses. The campfire hose should work with the Weber and vice versa. I have no idea what brand my hoses are, or even where and when I bought them.
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:02 AM   #38
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Good idea!
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:17 AM   #39
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Converted Que 1000 to low pressure propane

This is probably as good a place to tell this tale as any. We got the Weber Que 1000 shortly after we got our first trailer, and while we really like the grill, we didn't care for the 1 lb disposable propane canisters. We were in camping world and saw a 5 lb propane tank and a hose that screwed into the regulator so we got that. But that was late Sept, we were near home, and so we didn't use the set up for about 5 months. When we tried it out, the grill lit just fine, but went out after a few minutes. In order to salvage dinner, I connected the grill to one of the 20 lb propane tanks on the trailer.

This problem was persistent, and some one suggested getting a different hose that had a black attachment for the propane tank. Apparently there are different kinds of propane hoses, which can be distinguished by the color of the attachment at the tank end. Anyhow, that hose worked once or twice but was not reliable. The grill would start, but then go out in a few minutes and resist re-lighting.

My friend Google showed me that this was a fairly common problem, and eventually I came across a post from a good ol boy who explained that there is a device in the tank that senses a sudden loss of pressure in the hose, assumes that there is a leak and shuts off the propane. That is why it is important that you turn the valve on slowly. But in many cases, it doesn't make any difference how slowly you turn on the valve at the tank.

The solution was to buy a hose that had the regulator at the end near the tank. So I got this hose and this fitting along with some PTFE tape. I removed the regulator from the grill and replaced it with the flare fitting. I gave the two hoses away at the swap meet in Osoyoos. The new set up has worked just fine.

If I had to do it over again, I might do something like Karen has done with her trailer and end up with a long hose. But on the other hand, my little propane tank is convenient, and it is easy to carry it to where ever I want to set up the grill.
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:30 PM   #40
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I have found on my home propane barbeque grill that I must turn on the tank valve then wait until I hear a small noise from the tank. That "swooshy" noise is the valve in the tank deciding that there is no big leak and getting ready to allow propane out. If I turn the grill on before the noise, then the grill will not stay lit.

On my trailer, I turn the tank valves on then go off to light something and the time delay is long enough that this hasn't been a problem for me.
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