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Old 04-03-2017, 08:02 AM   #1
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Boondocker Retrofit for WFCO converter

Is the Boondocker Retrofit for the WFCO converter still a good easily installed replacement?

Boondocker Main Board Assembly for WFCO 8955

I would like something better for our 21' that won't fry the batteries if I leave it plugged in all the time. I have dual 6 volts.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:46 AM   #2
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Still waiting for Robert (rbryan4) to do his retrofit and report in with how it works.
www.escapeforum.org/forums/f41/so-many-mods-so-little-time-8353.html#post154531

Just out of curiosity though I'm wondering how one figures this unit is going to work better than the WFCO? Based on the numbers and functionality they are very similar. If your WFCO is working properly and dropping to 13.2V float then you shouldn't be frying your batteries. The only real difference I see is that the boondocker claims to be "4 stage" with a comment in the manual that says "When the converter is in the trickle/float mode (storage) the converter will periodically raise the voltage to mix the battery electrolyte to prevent stratification which can lead to sulfation." It doesn't say what voltage. A true equalization for Interstate GC2's is listed as 15.6V. There may be other attributes of the Boondocker (cleaner power?) but as far as extending the life of your batteries some measurable amount I'm not convinced.

Not trying to kill the idea, I just personally would need some better data on the performance before taking the time and expense to replace something that may be working fine.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiman View Post
I would like something better for our 21' that won't fry the batteries if I leave it plugged in all the time. I have dual 6 volts.
Has this actually happened. I never had a problem leaving it plugged in year round for 6 years with my 19.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:27 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Still waiting for Robert (rbryan4) to do his retrofit and report in with how it works.
www.escapeforum.org/forums/f41/so-many-mods-so-little-time-8353.html#post154531

Just out of curiosity though I'm wondering how one figures this unit is going to work better than the WFCO? Based on the numbers and functionality they are very similar. If your WFCO is working properly and dropping to 13.2V float then you shouldn't be frying your batteries. The only real difference I see is that the boondocker claims to be "4 stage" with a comment in the manual that says "When the converter is in the trickle/float mode (storage) the converter will periodically raise the voltage to mix the battery electrolyte to prevent stratification which can lead to sulfation." It doesn't say what voltage. A true equalization for Interstate GC2's is listed as 15.6V. There may be other attributes of the Boondocker (cleaner power?) but as far as extending the life of your batteries some measurable amount I'm not convinced.

Not trying to kill the idea, I just personally would need some better data on the performance before taking the time and expense to replace something that may be working fine.
Exactly my question before I go spend bucks!
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:43 AM   #5
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Perfect fit, easy to install in only 10 minutes. 2 screws and 5 wires, that's all it takes! The only difference in wiring is the red positive DC wire on 8900 series is blue on the Boondocker upgrade. You are welcome to call us with any questions during installation.
Clearly superior to the chinese world friendship company converter.
Call Randy to get the details from someone that KNOWS rather than SPECULATES !
Boondocker Converters
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:55 AM   #6
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Short answer, If you have solar I would recommend replacing the solar controller and leaving the WFCO alone.

Long answer follows. If you are interested I recommend you use the forum Google search for: bue sky and for xantrex truecharge2

I have replaced my WFCO converter with a Xantrex TrueCharge2 and the solar controller with a Blue Sky SB3000i to charge at the higher voltages Interstate recommends.

With the stock chargers I almost never added water - once or twice a year. With my replacements I add water every few weeks.

With the stock units I believe the batteries were rarely fully charged and I lost some solar charging capacity when I had partial sunlight or partial days to charge.

With my 2 95watt ETI installed solar panels I almost never turn the converter on, even when I have shore power.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:51 AM   #7
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I too would like to hear from Robert/rbyran4 on his experience with the Boondocker. We routinely let our batteries go down to maybe 25 - 30% charge before firing up the generator. Our previous trailer (Nash) had a 4 stage unit with desulfation, so I am interested to know if this feature would benefit us with all our boon docking. We also noticed the lights flickering when we use a water pump, maybe another thing that the Boondocker might address.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Just out of curiosity though I'm wondering how one figures this unit is going to work better than the WFCO? Based on the numbers and functionality they are very similar. If your WFCO is working properly and dropping to 13.2V float then you shouldn't be frying your batteries. The only real difference I see is that the boondocker claims to be "4 stage" with a comment in the manual that says "When the converter is in the trickle/float mode (storage) the converter will periodically raise the voltage to mix the battery electrolyte to prevent stratification which can lead to sulfation." It doesn't say what voltage. A true equalization for Interstate GC2's is listed as 15.6V. There may be other attributes of the Boondocker (cleaner power?) but as far as extending the life of your batteries some measurable amount I'm not convinced.

X2

I just can't figure out the benefit of switching. If it had a higher change rate for the regular charge cycle to meet the interstate dual 6 volt specs (14.7) maybe I could see it. Both have a 13.2 float charge so I don't see how it would burn up anything. The boost charge is a little higher but I never see that kick in for more than a couple minutes.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:50 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
X2

I just can't figure out the benefit of switching. If it had a higher change rate for the regular charge cycle to meet the interstate dual 6 volt specs (14.7) maybe I could see it. Both have a 13.2 float charge so I don't see how it would burn up anything. The boost charge is a little higher but I never see that kick in for more than a couple minutes.
My opinion is the original (WFCO) converter is fine if you do hookups most of the time. Its float (which it seems to stay in 95% of the time, no matter what the battery voltage is) is low enough that you are unlikely to "cook" your batteries.

On the other hand, if you dry camp and recharge with a generator, it is far from ideal. Because it rarely kicks into the bulk mode, it takes forever to charge the batteries to full with a generator. If you don't have a good solar controller (and, of course, panels) and rely solely on the generator to recharge or a one day visit to a campground with hookups, switching to either the Boondocker or the Progressive Dynamics Upgrade Kit makes sense.
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Old 04-03-2017, 01:17 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
My opinion is the original (WFCO) converter is fine if you do hookups most of the time. Its float (which it seems to stay in 95% of the time, no matter what the battery voltage is) is low enough that you are unlikely to "cook" your batteries.

On the other hand, if you dry camp and recharge with a generator, it is far from ideal. Because it rarely kicks into the bulk mode, it takes forever to charge the batteries to full with a generator. If you don't have a good solar controller (and, of course, panels) and rely solely on the generator to recharge or a one day visit to a campground with hookups, switching to either the Boondocker or the Progressive Dynamics Upgrade Kit makes sense.
So these will kick into boost (bulk) before the WFCO or do it more often?
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