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Old 12-12-2015, 10:09 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
There is no code that limits what output an appliance has other than common sense, the limitation is the breaker for the circuit, and how much of a pain it would be to have to reset it. Should voltages drop below 120V for some reason, there is a good likelihood that the breaker would trip with an 1800W load. But yes, something less than 1800W would certainly make more sense. Even 1600W at a lower 110V is still just under 15A.

Here is a link to your local BORG, with the Dimplex heater that has up to an 1800W output.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1000133460.html

For anyone wondering how to calculate, it is simply;
P (power)
V (voltage)
I (current)
P (watts) = V (volts) x I (amps)

So if you have 120V x 15A, you get 1800W.
The Dimplex RKHA looks like an interesting option, and it is intended to be configured for up to 1800 watts. It has four elements each of which is 450W @ 120V (32 ohms); any number from one to four can be used. Neither the product web page nor the installation manual contains any indication of required circuit or breaker capacity; this isn't an appliance designed to plug into a 15 amp outlet. The 1350 watt configuration (three elements) might be a good compromise for this unit.

Jon covered the effect of voltage on current draw well. The specs for this heater also demonstrate that power at 208 volts is less than power at 240 volts (wired the same way internally), in proportion to the square of voltage.

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The location would be nice, but not sure I would want to give up the valuable exterior storage space. Using the second riser would screw up the storage under the steps. I plan to make the first step a bit wider, as did Chris R. It is all in the planning stage yet, and nothing will be decided until I take a trip to BC late February to check things out for myself.
I think the first step would be a great location, if you can make a desirable heater fit there.
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Old 12-12-2015, 10:19 PM   #62
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I had lots of electrical education many, many years ago, and have very rarely drawn on it for a long time now.
I'm in the same boat. This might be a good example where what you can do in residential wiring differs from an RV.

In residential wiring, since the built-in heater is a heating unit; it would be required to be on an individual circuit breaker and the wattage allowed on a 15 amp circuit would be 80% which would work out to 1440 watts.

I do like the idea of a built-in heater. I wish I could find a suitable location on my 19.

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Old 12-12-2015, 10:43 PM   #63
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I do like the idea of a built-in heater. I wish I could find a suitable location on my 19.
If surface-mounted is okay, a shallow enough permanently built-in unit could go on the wall forward of the bathroom door, or on the forward-facing end of the galley cabinet beside the door. Example: the EF12 from Dimplex... but not exactly this one because it is 208/240V only.
The rear-facing end of the dinette bench beside the door could hold any narrow and short enough built-in even if recessed. A surface-mounted or shallow enough recessed unit could go under the furnace (presumably with a relocation of the propane detector). Maybe a Dimplex R23SH 12 11 (1250W 120V)?
Individual interior customizations could change things, of course.
Maybe some of these are not workable locations - sorry, I didn't check back through the entire discussion to see if they have already been considered and discarded.
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Old 12-13-2015, 01:02 AM   #64
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Good suggestions but I've added extra cabinet doors and storage in some of those locations. The wall space ahead of the bathroom door would be doable but I haven't given up hope of putting 180* hinges on the door to allow it to open wide and be more out of the way when open.

For now I'll be staying with the cube heater on a separate thermostat. Looks like the 5.0TA has more opportunities for heater placement.

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Old 12-13-2015, 01:36 AM   #65
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I'll send you a photo when I do.

Oh! Can the forum suggest attire?

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Old 12-13-2015, 08:08 AM   #66
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Oh! Can the forum suggest attire?

Tom
Hi StarvingHyena... A "Birthday suit" is required attire!!!
That should heat things up enough!!! Alf
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:28 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Looks like the 5.0TA has more opportunities for heater placement.
I know a solution for that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena View Post
Oh! Can the forum suggest attire?
Well, I do have a boa.


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Hi StarvingHyena... A "Birthday suit" is required attire!!!
That should heat things up enough!!!
We would slowly move to that.
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Old 12-13-2015, 12:15 PM   #68
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Those heat mats are more for comfort than space heating, though would certainly make walking on the floor a lot more comfy.
Thinking out loud here...

From the RugBuddy web site: "Perfect on top of existing hard surface flooring that feels cold..."

I'm wondering - if they weren't so pricy - if one of these would be useful under the primary bed in a '21. The storage area under the bed is a fairly large, unheated volume. One of these might have the side effect of keeping the underside of the mattress dry during extended use in cold weather.

--
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Old 12-13-2015, 12:44 PM   #69
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I know a solution for that.

Well, I do have a boa.



We would slowly move to that.
Please, please, I know how to block ads, and how to block spam but some other images

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Old 12-13-2015, 12:59 PM   #70
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Which one is you, Jim?
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Old 12-13-2015, 02:07 PM   #71
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Which one is you, Jim?
C;mon, you know, the cuter one.
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Old 12-13-2015, 03:04 PM   #72
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Hi: Ron in BC... Which one is "Spam"? Alf
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