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Old 12-12-2015, 04:28 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
While I've been told the quality of the newer Pelonis Classic Disk Heaters is not as good as the older models, the ads state they function the same way - vary the heat output & fan speed to keep the temperature of your trailer at what ever you set it at.

I'm not giving up my 1986 Pelonis Disk Furnace to find out - it keeps the trailer temperature within 1-2 degrees off the set temperature with outside temperature swings between 50°F and 20°F. When running at its slowest speed (most of the time) you can barely hear it.
Thanks Jon - that's the type I was thinking of. The ceramic disk feature is not important, but the continuously variable control is the part I like.
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Old 12-12-2015, 04:36 PM   #42
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Just another instance of Amazon.ca product rip-off. The same heater Jon linked to for $88.85 + $7.64 shipping (USD) sells for $182.08 +$30.39 shipping (CAD).
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Old 12-12-2015, 05:23 PM   #43
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Jim,
I have installed 2 of these, the first was a 1500 watt model and I installed a switch to disable one element allowing it to operate off 750 watts. The second one is in BlackJack an is 1000 watt element which is adequate. The 1500 watt model may be too much for the circuit. Depends on what else is on the line. If it were me, I'd locate the heater in the street side closet wall in the loft, there is a 120v outlet there and the flow is unobstructed throughout the area plus you have access to the rear.
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Old 12-12-2015, 05:33 PM   #44
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I plan to have Escape run the wires, and I will wire it in to a separate circuit, so 15A would do up to 1800W, not that I need it.

I do think having a heater that could be set to a lower wattage would be beneficial, as most nights it would be to only take a chill off, but it would be nice to use below freezing if able too.

I don't think there would be enough room to put it under the closet door Jim, as most need the 6" to either side, and the narrowest are just over 14", that would mean a clearance of over 26" side to side. Did you just wire in a regular wall switch? I was thinking of mounting a small one on the grill. Only one maker I know of actually does that, Myson.
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Old 12-12-2015, 05:39 PM   #45
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I was thinking the side closet up in the loft wall facing the front of the bed. I installed a lighted switch in the 19' to remind me it was on as the thermostat will operate the blower. In BlackJack I installed a 2/4/6/8 timer. The switch for the element was a toggle mounted on the grill.
http://www.amazon.ca/Broan-Nutone-17...68HGMVHQN01JAR
http://www.amazon.ca/Woods-59013-Dec...8ATN5T4G50NDTD
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Old 12-12-2015, 05:59 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I plan to have Escape run the wires, and I will wire it in to a separate circuit, so 15A would do up to 1800W, not that I need it.
15 amps at 120 volts is 1800 watts, but that might not be permitted. I think - and someone qualified should confirm - that a single appliance that is operated continuously must not exceed 1500 watts (12.5 amps) on a 15 amp circuit, which is why most heaters are that size.
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:06 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I plan to have Escape run the wires, and I will wire it in to a separate circuit, so 15A would do up to 1800W, not that I need it.

I do think having a heater that could be set to a lower wattage would be beneficial, as most nights it would be to only take a chill off, but it would be nice to use below freezing if able too.

I don't think there would be enough room to put it under the closet door Jim, as most need the 6" to either side, and the narrowest are just over 14", that would mean a clearance of over 26" side to side. Did you just wire in a regular wall switch? I was thinking of mounting a small one on the grill. Only one maker I know of actually does that, Myson.
Hi: Jim Bennett... Just a thought but I'd look at putting it in the top step riser. The back of the heater would project into in the exterior hatch opening!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:13 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I was thinking the side closet up in the loft wall facing the front of the bed. I installed a lighted switch in the 19' to remind me it was on as the thermostat will operate the blower. In BlackJack I installed a 2/4/6/8 timer. The switch for the element was a toggle mounted on the grill.
http://www.amazon.ca/Broan-Nutone-17...68HGMVHQN01JAR
http://www.amazon.ca/Woods-59013-Dec...8ATN5T4G50NDTD
Yeah, I like the idea of a toggle on the heater itself. Here is the Myson guide, I really like their switches on the front, and wish others would do the same.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...FE50-Guide.pdf
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:19 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
15 amps at 120 volts is 1800 watts, but that might not be permitted. I think - and someone qualified should confirm - that a single appliance that is operated continuously must not exceed 1500 watts (12.5 amps) on a 15 amp circuit, which is why most heaters are that size.
There is no code that limits what output an appliance has other than common sense, the limitation is the breaker for the circuit, and how much of a pain it would be to have to reset it. Should voltages drop below 120V for some reason, there is a good likelihood that the breaker would trip with an 1800W load. But yes, something less than 1800W would certainly make more sense. Even 1600W at a lower 110V is still just under 15A.

Here is a link to your local BORG, with the Dimplex heater that has up to an 1800W output.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1000133460.html

For anyone wondering how to calculate, it is simply;
P (power)
V (voltage)
I (current)
P (watts) = V (volts) x I (amps)

So if you have 120V x 15A, you get 1800W.

Quote:
Originally Posted by escape artist View Post
Hi: Jim Bennett... Just a thought but I'd look at putting it in the top step riser. The back of the heater would project into in the exterior hatch opening!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
The location would be nice, but not sure I would want to give up the valuable exterior storage space. Using the second riser would screw up the storage under the steps. I plan to make the first step a bit wider, as did Chris R. It is all in the planning stage yet, and nothing will be decided until I take a trip to BC late February to check things out for myself.
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Old 12-12-2015, 07:22 PM   #50
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I have a built in unit in my 5.0 Classic. Escape ran the wire for the heater and thermostat and also cut the hole for the heater to my specs. I put the thermostat at the head of the bed (we sleep with our heads towards the inside of the trailer rather than the front of the trailer) so that I can turn it up in the morning before I get out of bed. We turn the heat down to about 55 for the night and in temps just around freezing and slightly below it runs probably about 50% of the time. The unit is a King Brand heater and it is variable in wattage from 250 to 1500 watts I run it at 1200 watts. You just connect the wire you need in the heater to activate one, some or all of the elements. It has a squirrel cage fan and is very quiet. It's about 12"x8"x4"deep. I installed it where the shallow cupboard would be under the sink.

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