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Old 09-13-2014, 10:53 PM   #1
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Cabinet Lighting Switches

Hey,

I have been pulling wires for cabinet lighting and AV wires. The Cabinets will have LED strips I have been mulling over switch types. Jim B had a good point of leaving the cabinets open when in storage so the instant on switches are out. Now I am debating hidden push button switches in the upper left corner of each single door cabinet . I am debating a switch in each corner for each double door cabinet. I would not know I left them on though if the switch is inside, So then I debated a flush mounted exterior switch that lights on use beside each door. I could also just mount an led above each door to light when the hidden push button switch is on they would be almost invisible right at the door edge. Wiring them all to one led would be a major pain as would wiring them to a master off switch.

So here is the question Hidden Switch with 3 mm blue LED above the door or flush round black switch on the left hand corner of the door that has a ring that lights when it is on.

Thoughts Or other ways to build a better mouse trap??

Cypher
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Old 09-13-2014, 11:09 PM   #2
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Not sure about leaving the cabinets open issue so I'd go with the instant on switch.
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Old 09-13-2014, 11:54 PM   #3
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I haven't done this yet, so take this with the proverbial grain of salt. But in the new trailer, I think of the overheads as being in three "zones": The bedroom area, the dinette, and the kitchen. I had drops installed in each of these zones. my thought was I would have one illuminated toggle switch that would control all the lights in each zone. Seems simpler than having a switch for each cabinet, and fewer things to check when putting the trailer into storage. I don't plan on hiding them -- I want it to be obvious when one of them is lit up.
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:30 AM   #4
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My plan is same as LeonW. Using the KISS principle.
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:27 AM   #5
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I used plain old miniature toggle switches on the right of each door. While they have no indicator, I've found that you can see enough light leaking around the edge of the door to tell if you have left them on. I also am in the habit of checking the position of the toggle switch (standard up is on) when passing the cabinets.
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeonW View Post
I haven't done this yet, so take this with the proverbial grain of salt. But in the new trailer, I think of the overheads as being in three "zones": The bedroom area, the dinette, and the kitchen. I had drops installed in each of these zones. my thought was I would have one illuminated toggle switch that would control all the lights in each zone. Seems simpler than having a switch for each cabinet, and fewer things to check when putting the trailer into storage. I don't plan on hiding them -- I want it to be obvious when one of them is lit up.
I like this idea less cost of switches, easier to wire up . Breaking them into zones 3 cabinets over bed , 2 cabinets Refrigerator area, 1 cabinet above sink , 2 below cabinets below sink, 2 cabinets dinette area. Makes it 5 Switches vs 10 hidden Switches plus 10 leds or 10 Lighted switches. John the toggles are good but I am good for bumping things and not realizing it so I would have to put guarded ones in.

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Old 09-14-2014, 09:31 AM   #7
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What I did was to put a toggle switch into each cabinet. That way it is handy to whichever one you are going in to. I just drilled a hole in the wood so the cylinder of the switch would fit nice and snug. I would do it this way again, as I prefer them out of sight.

Leon, if you leave a light on, there is no missing it, as the entire edge of the door glows, even in daylight. Plus, when storing the trailer, most people just use the kill switch.

You can see it up on the right side of the cabinet frame here.

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Old 09-14-2014, 09:51 AM   #8
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Jim, I like your solution.

Where did you tap into for power for the cabinet lights?
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:02 AM   #9
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I took it from existing under cabinet lights where possible. In a couple cabinets, I had to fish it in from other cabinets. These LED strips draw very little power. I usually use #18 wire, which is big time overkill, but better to work on with my bit mitts.
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Old 09-14-2014, 01:47 PM   #10
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I took it from existing under cabinet lights where possible. In a couple cabinets, I had to fish it in from other cabinets. These LED strips draw very little power. I usually use #18 wire, which is big time overkill, but better to work on with my bit mitts.
Those switches look good , I would be concerned with bumping it though you say like my under bed lights you can see them on around the doors. The cost for that many switches again back to ruminating on it people were starting to stare while I was debating myself. lol hmm. I ran hot wires from the 12 v accessory outlets as they would be less used and with the minor amount of power LEDs use not much load on the 14 ga wire ETI used to connect them. I am using 16 Ga feed lines yes more then is required but since it was I had the most rolls of well... Solder and heat shrink tubing though is pricey too lol

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Old 09-14-2014, 01:51 PM   #11
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Those look good, Jim, and I may reconsider my plan if you can see all around the doors. I thought the doors would hide more more of the light.

I don't turn off the kill switch when I store the trailer. Largely because I thought that would also disconnect the solar charging from the battery. Is that incorrect?

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Old 09-14-2014, 01:58 PM   #12
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Those look good, Jim, and I may reconsider my plan if you can see all around the doors. I thought the doors would hide more more of the light.

I don't turn off the kill switch when I store the trailer. Largely because I thought that would also disconnect the solar charging from the battery. Is that incorrect?

Leon
The kill switch disconnects everything BUT the solar panels. Turn the switch off (with no significant 12V load) and the voltage display on the solar controller should not change.
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Old 09-14-2014, 02:01 PM   #13
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I leave mine plugged in with a small heater going to keep the interior above freezing. I also use a cover though it is supposed to get some light through to the solar panel I do not trust it to do so.

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Old 09-14-2014, 04:08 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
Those switches look good , I would be concerned with bumping it though you say like my under bed lights you can see them on around the doors. The cost for that many switches again back to ruminating on it people were starting to stare while I was debating myself. lol hmm. I ran hot wires from the 12 v accessory outlets as they would be less used and with the minor amount of power LEDs use not much load on the 14 ga wire ETI used to connect them. I am using 16 Ga feed lines yes more then is required but since it was I had the most rolls of well... Solder and heat shrink tubing though is pricey too lol

Cypher
I also used Round Rocker toggle switches mounted in the door frame as Jim did. Very easy to install and it would be very difficult to activate the switch with an accidental bump. Found the switches on Amazon and paid $5.99 for 10 switches. Amazon.com: 10PC New 16A 12V Round Rocker Toggle Switch Blue LED SPST For All: Automotive

IMG_2448.jpg

sinksw.jpg
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:05 PM   #15
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Thanks for the link, Don.

What LEDs strips are people using?
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:45 PM   #16
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The kill switch disconnects everything BUT the solar panels. Turn the switch off (with no significant 12V load) and the voltage display on the solar controller should not change.
I think it also allows charging from the converter too. Anyone wish to clarify/poo poo this?
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:41 PM   #17
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It disconnects everything but the solar - break-away, converter/charger, co/lp detectors, etc.

The power distribution unit uses the same wires to charge the battery from the converter as it does to get power from the battery for the 12V power panel.
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:53 PM   #18
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The power distribution unit uses the same wires to charge the battery from the converter as it does to get power from the battery for the 12V power panel.
Yeah, that makes sense.
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:39 PM   #19
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It disconnects everything but the solar - break-away, converter/charger, co/lp detectors, etc.

The power distribution unit uses the same wires to charge the battery from the converter as it does to get power from the battery for the 12V power panel.
thanks much for the info. I will start using the kill switch when I store the trailer...even if that means that I need to reset the memory buttons on the radio when I restore the power. :-)
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Old 09-15-2014, 08:39 AM   #20
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Thanks for the link, Don.

What LEDs strips are people using?
I used these - Amazon.com: Triangle Bulbs 3528-IP65-White-60L Pure White LED Strip Light, Waterproof LED Flexible Light Strip 12V with 300 SMD LED: Home Improvement
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