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Old 04-19-2018, 09:42 PM   #301
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I'd pony up the cash for a factory installed mini-split in a heartbeat Dave. I suspect many others would as well.
Robert if you come to NJ with your cash we can arrange a better than factory mini-split install.

What I highlighted above is an inverter rooftop unit. If this is really much quieter and were available in the U.S. it would be ideal. This would be more cost effective, you wouldn’t need to find a spot for the outdoor unit and you have a warrantied install. I’m sure these three items are big hang ups for many on the mini-split.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:44 PM   #302
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The incremental cost can’t be that much considering the added value of being able to talk and sleep in your trailer undisturbed by the A/C.

People won’t pay extra for these features and technology? I sense that many on this forum alone would jump at the chance for a quieter A/C if there was an available option.
Perhaps. I have noticed that typical RVs come with loud water pumps, ovens that require match lighting, stoves that have no protective shutdown if the flame stops, furnaces that are so inefficient that they would illegal to sell in Canada for home use, and a list of other marginal equipment. One might think that they would be willing to pay for better alternatives to those, too.

I think that most RV buyers are willing to pay for features that they can see. Electric fireplaces and outside TV screens sell well in larger units.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:47 PM   #303
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I think that most RV buyers are willing to pay for features that they can see. Electric fireplaces and outside TV screens sell well in larger units.
I think you're right. The average RV buyer is impressed by the bling, and real usability and durability be damned. The fiberglass RV community is, I think, a bit more discriminating.
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:39 PM   #304
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... Kept up the search and lo and behold Dometic introduced the Harrier model (10,500 BTUH) in 2016 with an inverter compressor and variable fan speed. Reviews I have seen indicate that the unit is much quieter than standard units. Why is this not made in a 120V/60Hz version and available in the US/Canada?

https://www.dometic.com/en-gb/kr/pro...erter-_-152020
I may have missed it, but what's the weight of the rooftop Harrier model and how does that compare to the current rooftop model A/C installed by ETI?
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:46 AM   #305
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I may have missed it, but what's the weight of the rooftop Harrier model and how does that compare to the current rooftop model A/C installed by ETI?
The Harrier is 100# which is right inline with the current Dometic Penguin unit. The only compatibility issue I see is that it is only available in 240V.
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:55 AM   #306
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The Harrier is 100# which is right inline with the current Dometic Penguin unit. The only compatibility issue I see is that it is only available in 240V.
I'm guessing that the electrical components of the Harrier run at Sweden's standard 50 hertz, so there would need to be some component changes to run at our standard 60 hertz. When taking college students on study abroad trips, despite my warnings, lots of the female students would burn out their hairdryer running their 60 hertz U.S. hairdryer at Great Britain's 50 hertz because, as I understand it, the fan, running at roughly a 16% slower rate couldn't remove the heated air from around the heating coils fast enough. A simple U.S. to U.K. adapter changes the voltage but not the hertz, so any induction motor will run about 16% slower. At least that's the way it was explained to me.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:52 PM   #307
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I'm guessing that the electrical components of the Harrier run at Sweden's standard 50 hertz, so there would need to be some component changes to run at our standard 60 hertz. When taking college students on study abroad trips, despite my warnings, lots of the female students would burn out their hairdryer running their 60 hertz U.S. hairdryer at Great Britain's 50 hertz because, as I understand it, the fan, running at roughly a 16% slower rate couldn't remove the heated air from around the heating coils fast enough. A simple U.S. to U.K. adapter changes the voltage but not the hertz, so any induction motor will run about 16% slower. At least that's the way it was explained to me.
All true about AC motors run directly from the input power, but an appliance using an inverter takes in the 50 Hz or 60 Hz AC power, rectifies it to DC, then inverts it again to the frequency needed to drive the motors (of the compressor and the fans) at the desired speeds. While I wouldn't buy the unit or plug it in based on this assumption, it is entirely possible that this air conditioner wouldn't care about the input power frequency difference.

The voltage would be a concern. While lots of electronic equipment is designed to take in power over a huge range (such as 100 volts to 250 volts) so that it can be used worldwide without adapters or different power supplies, that seem unlikely to me for a motor-driven appliance like this. People who always stay at serviced RV sites with 240 volt power (common North American 50 amp service) might be able to use a Euro 240 V 50 Hz appliance directly, but requiring those sites to get air conditioning would be quite restrictive.
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Old 04-20-2018, 01:46 PM   #308
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There's no reason why an inverter air conditioner of this type can't be designed to run on North American current. I suppose it's wait and see if they eventually sell a North American version. Kind of like a Tropical Climate Class absorption fridge. Don't hold your breath.
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Old 04-21-2018, 03:49 PM   #309
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All true about AC motors run directly from the input power, but an appliance using an inverter takes in the 50 Hz or 60 Hz AC power, rectifies it to DC, then inverts it again to the frequency needed to drive the motors (of the compressor and the fans) at the desired speeds. While I wouldn't buy the unit or plug it in based on this assumption, it is entirely possible that this air conditioner wouldn't care about the input power frequency difference.

The voltage would be a concern. While lots of electronic equipment is designed to take in power over a huge range (such as 100 volts to 250 volts) so that it can be used worldwide without adapters or different power supplies, that seem unlikely to me for a motor-driven appliance like this. People who always stay at serviced RV sites with 240 volt power (common North American 50 amp service) might be able to use a Euro 240 V 50 Hz appliance directly, but requiring those sites to get air conditioning would be quite restrictive.
Could something like this to boost the voltage from 120 to 240 be used?
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-AC-5000.../dp/B004MPR44E
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Old 04-21-2018, 06:10 PM   #310
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Could something like this to boost the voltage from 120 to 240 be used?
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-AC-5000.../dp/B004MPR44E
Likely, as long as my assumption is true that the frequency doesn't matter. And the 3000 watt version would save some weight (which is substantial). I have heard that RV owners from Europe have used this sort of transformer to use 120V power here.

There are a lot of these available, and whole websites devoted to them:
https://voltage-converter-transformers.com/
https://www.110220volts.com/
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Old 04-27-2018, 12:57 PM   #311
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Found this mini-split made by ClimateRight that has a DIY quick connect of the refrigerant lines. Neat concept. Too bad the condenser is too big and heavy to be practical to move around and only bring out when you want A/C.

Would be nice if they made one of these around 5,000 BTUH.

https://climateright.com/mini-split-...er-heater.html
They make a 5000 and a 2500 now. 2500 would just about make it in my 15, weighs 55 lbs. 5000 weighs 64.
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Old 04-27-2018, 01:27 PM   #312
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They make a 5000 and a 2500 now. 2500 would just about make it in my 15, weighs 55 lbs. 5000 weighs 64.
Bobbie:
I was referring to a true mini-split with the indoor evaporator and outside condenser similar to what I installed, but with quick disconnects on the refrigerant lines. What you are seeing are their self-contained air conditioners/heaters with all components outside in a box and the air needs to be ducted into and out of the trailer. Nonetheless, it might work for you but you need to put holes in the trailer or rig up some type of portals on a slider window. Personally wouldn't go any less than a 5,000 BTUH unless you know you aren't going to see any really hot weather. This is reinforced by at least one review I see where the reviewer couldn't cool his teardrop with the 2500 BTUH model and switched to the 5000 BTUH model with success. The good news is that although it is 9lbs heavier it isn't any bigger.

They are recommended for RV's and teardrops, but you will notice a very specific note in their description: "We do not warranty mobile vehicle mounting at this time." I take this to mean they do not want to see these permanently mounted on the tongue for instance and rather it be carried in the trailer or tow vehicle and hooked up on site.

https://climateright.com/2500-btu-sm...nd-heater.html
https://climateright.com/climaterigh...-heater-2.html

If you get one I'm sure forum members would like to see how you hook it up and how it works.
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Old 04-27-2018, 01:58 PM   #313
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I would probably do a thing to fit in the slider window- I wouldn't want to put portals anywhere but in back. Or at least start with a slider fit. Maybe plexiglass to just fit in the screen space. Yes, I think I agree, getting one at the limit would probably work most of the time but if I had one it would be nice if it worked all the time. The few times I've needed AC (and had power) it was only about 10 degrees too warm, though. Such as Osoyoos last year (although since I was in the shade, might have been worse in the sun.)

Not sure if there is any real advantage over a tiny window AC, though. A small window AC weighs a little less, but on the other hand, I wouldn't have to lift this up into a window- just put the portal panel in the window.

Not sure about their mobility warning. Are they trying to say don't try to run it? or carry it somewhere besides in the trailer?
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Old 04-27-2018, 03:04 PM   #314
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The few times I've needed AC (and had power) it was only about 10 degrees too warm, though. Such as Osoyoos last year (although since I was in the shade, might have been worse in the sun.)
It would have certainly been worse in the direct sun. The roof gets warm and some of this heat radiates into the trailer.

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Not sure if there is any real advantage over a tiny window AC, though. A small window AC weighs a little less, but on the other hand, I wouldn't have to lift this up into a window- just put the portal panel in the window.
Yeah I see 5000 BTU window A/C's coming in around 40lbs. That's 25 lbs lighter than the equivalent capacity ClimateRight unit, but I see your point about getting it in the window. I think it's a toss up. 65 lbs is probably starting to get a little awkward but if it is only moved at the beginning and end of a trip it might be doable. For reference a Honda EU2000i generator has a dry weight of 47 lbs.

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Not sure about their mobility warning. Are they trying to say don't try to run it? or carry it somewhere besides in the trailer?
It is not explicitly about running it while moving because that is probably a rare issue. Obviously you would need to be running a generator as well. It appears they just don't want responsibility for units subjected to the wear and tear of the road if mounted directly to a trailer. As I said above I believe their intention is that it is unhooked and carried inside the trailer or tow vehicle. Warranty aside could you permanently mount it with rubber isolators like I did for my condenser and be fine? Maybe, just don't expect them to cover the unit if it breaks. Our Fujitsu condenser that is made for residential use has been fine on the tongue for thousands of miles, but I can't speak to the quality of each unit compared to one another. In the end, the engineering of the mount is on you and you have to be willing to eat the purchase price if it fails prematurely.
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Old 04-27-2018, 04:31 PM   #315
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I'd probably have to carry it inside. That would be a pain- but I'm sure the cargo rack bounces too much.
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Old 04-27-2018, 07:08 PM   #316
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Another thing to keep in mind is they like the Climateright units as close to what they are serving as possible. Probably due to resistance of the small ducting. They only give you 4 foot tubes with the kit. To reach a window portal arrangement the unit would need to be up on a stand or something.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:34 PM   #317
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Looking for an update on the Noria it now appears that availability has slipped from original spring/summer 2017 projection to spring 2018 and retail cost is up from $399 to $499.
Well it looks like the Noria is still just a pipe dream. Schedule now says Spring 2019 with retail of $599. I think this is basically a joke now and they are sitting back sipping lattes with the $2.2M raised. Wish we put that towards cancer.
http://www.phillymag.com/news/2017/0...-kurt-swanson/

Anyway, as the heat moves in for many of us is anyone without the Dometic overhead unit doing any creative air conditioning to cool their trailer? Mini-split, window unit, ClimateRight?
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:20 PM   #318
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Never had much faith in these crowdfunding ventures. Very few of them seem to work out.

Oh and Dave, if the wife and I ever decide to take a long trip to NJ with the 19 in tow, don't be surprised if we pop by with a bunch of AC parts and a helpless look on our face. [emoji23]
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:09 PM   #319
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Just make sure you take plenty of good texas BBQ with to bribe him with
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:31 PM   #320
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Oh and Dave, if the wife and I ever decide to take a long trip to NJ with the 19 in tow, don't be surprised if we pop by with a bunch of AC parts and a helpless look on our face. [emoji23]
I’d be happy to help.
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