Custom Air Conditioning Retrofit

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by viator36

Dave,

To answer your questions:

-I intend to have the indoor unit over the rear dinette in the cabinetry
-I intend to have the outdoor unit on the back of the trailer with the spare tire and rack relocated and the current support bar reinforced/platform added if needed.

I hear you that you are full time working so it would be nights/weekends work. I am retired and my schedule is more flexible so I don't think it should be a problem.

We can talk about logistics and cost and other things that you think are important for this mod. But first I want to hear your reasons against the rear location for the outdoor unit. Is the rear location a no no? Please elaborate. I thought (non engineering background) the rear location would be so convenient for the setup and haven't thought of foregoing the front storage box. Let me hear your explanation first. Thanks.

Jake

Jake:
My rationale for not wanting the condenser on the back related primarily to the rougher ride versus the tongue. I was incorrect in thinking that the power center was at the front requiring a long run of wire to the rear. The power center in a 21 is at the rear. If you don’t plan any rough off-highway driving I think we can make something work on the rear with the right mounting, especially if you are ok with the spare tire moved. This is a nice relationship with indoor unit, outdoor unit and power center all in close proximity. Can use a 15’ refrigerant lineset like I did on the 19. Plus you keep the front storage box. Keep in mind that the 9,000 BTUH unit cools the 19 fine, but if you are more comfortable going with 12,000 BTUH Fujitsu it is the same package size for all components. Outdoor unit just gets 5# heavier. Let me know what you want to do. Maybe it is best we speak off the forum.

Dave

[viator36]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Jake:
My rationale for not wanting the condenser on the back related primarily to the rougher ride versus the tongue. I was incorrect in thinking that the power center was at the front requiring a long run of wire to the rear. The power center in a 21 is at the rear. If you don’t plan any rough off-highway driving I think we can make something work on the rear with the right mounting, especially if you are ok with the spare tire moved. This is a nice relationship with indoor unit, outdoor unit and power center all in close proximity. Can use a 15’ refrigerant lineset like I did on the 19. Plus you keep the front storage box. Keep in mind that the 9,000 BTUH unit cools the 19 fine, but if you are more comfortable going with 12,000 BTUH Fujitsu it is the same package size for all components. Outdoor unit just gets 5# heavier. Let me know what you want to do. Maybe it is best we speak off the forum.

Dave

Dave,

Yes let's speak off the forum. My gmail account is my user name. Can you pm me then we go from there?

[Mary F]

Originally Posted by viator36

I am posting my message to you here because I am not allowed to pm you since I haven't earned trusted status on this forum.

Remember, it's not that you cannot PM, it's that your PM cannot contain a hotlink.

To keep a phone number or email address from converting to a hotlink, spell out part of it or add intervening spaces.

(For those who don't know me, I'm admin on FiberglassRV.com, which is also owned by Social Knowledge and has the same PM restrictions for folks who've not yet posted much. It's the security system... and will go away for you eventually. We don't like to say how quickly because, security.)

[viator36]

I did read about the part from another member that I can pm but just not include hot link. I tried that s couple of days ago by saying "my email address is viator36 and @ and gmail.com" but my messages still didn't go through, that's why I posted that comment you quoted. I may want to try your suggested way.

[the5reeds]

I have two Fujitsu mini split heat pump systems that I use to primarily heat and cool my home. They are great. I live in the NE corner of WA and it gets cold in winter, but I am still able to use them down to -5 and lower....the caveat is the lower the temperature, the more frequently the condenser unit must go into a defrost cycle, (which is why they get less efficient at lower temps). The defrost cycle a IS REALLY LOUD WHINING NOISE that I can hear in the house. I can't imagine what it would be like in a travel trailer.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by the5reeds

I have two Fujitsu mini split heat pump systems that I use to primarily heat and cool my home. They are great. I live in the NE corner of WA and it gets cold in winter, but I am still able to use them down to -5 and lower....the caveat is the lower the temperature, the more frequently the condenser unit must go into a defrost cycle, (which is why they get less efficient at lower temps). The defrost cycle a IS REALLY LOUD WHINING NOISE that I can hear in the house. I can't imagine what it would be like in a travel trailer.

These units are being used for quiet cooling as the primary design objective. The fact that it provides heating is just an ancillary benefit. The propane furnace is still the primary heat source or a small resistance heater can be used if plugged in. The unit I used only heats down to 15F. With the ability to heat at lower temperatures you are definitely defrosting more often. Maybe I haven’t used it enough in cold temperatures but I’m yet to hear any disagreeable noises.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by viator36

Dave,

Yes let's speak off the forum. My gmail account is my user name. Can you pm me then we go from there?

Jake,
I just emailed you.

[viator36]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Jake,
I just emailed you.

Dave,

I just got your email and replied back.

[WDW]

We are looking at a 17B that was built without ac and was not prewired for later installation. We camp in the Big Bend area of Texas and HAVE to have ac during the day. Has anyone used the portable ac units that sits inside and vent out a window?
David

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by WDW

We are looking at a 17B that was built without ac and was not prewired for later installation. We camp in the Big Bend area of Texas and HAVE to have ac during the day. Has anyone used the portable ac units that sits inside and vent out a window?

David

Another idea for you: Even if the 17B was not prewired for it, the shell may have been designed for a roof unit. This is more critical than prewiring. Wiring can be added after construction. Reinforcement cannot. Once upon a time they only reinforced the roof for an AC unit if you ordered AC from the factory, or if you specifically asked them to reinforce it because you *might* want it in the future. But enough people asked for this that at some point they just started reinforcing every one. At least that is the story as I understand it. So you might be able to add a normal AC unit. If you have the VIN I would wager that Escape can look the trailer up for you and tell you if a roof unit is an option or not.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Another idea for you: Even if the 17B was not prewired for it, the shell may have been designed for a roof unit. This is more critical than prewiring. Wiring can be added after construction. Reinforcement cannot. Once upon a time they only reinforced the roof for an AC unit if you ordered AC from the factory, or if you specifically asked them to reinforce it because you *might* want it in the future. But enough people asked for this that at some point they just started reinforcing every one. At least that is the story as I understand it. So you might be able to add a normal AC unit. If you have the VIN I would wager that Escape can look the trailer up for you and tell you if a roof unit is an option or not.

Escape also made a extra fiberglass piece that supported the Ac . Kind of like the bathroom Vent fan modification many of us got from Escape if our trailer didn't come with bath fan . A call to Escape would clear that up . Pat

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by WDW

We are looking at a 17B that was built without ac and was not prewired for later installation. We camp in the Big Bend area of Texas and HAVE to have ac during the day. Has anyone used the portable ac units that sits inside and vent out a window?
David

I'd suggest finding a unit with an AC, messing with window units is going to be a kludge and will be annoying

[Patandlinda]

Also another solution is a small window unit placed in the Escape window works very well . Ron in BC uses that idea. We also used a small window unit on a motorhome we used to have when we were camped in the desert .Actually wish we didn't go for the roof Ac and did the window unit . About 110 vs over a 1000. Pat

[WDW]

I did call the factory and they said they could add ac at the factory by first attaching a fiber glass shroud to distribute the weight. I like that idea but it is not practical to take the Escape back to its birthplace for the modification. Thats why I was asking if anyone had used a portable ac unit and is it a practical way to cool the trailer..
The ones that sit inside the camper and vent out a window.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by WDW

I did call the factory and they said they could add ac at the factory by first attaching a fiber glass shroud to distribute the weight. I like that idea but it is not practical to take the Escape back to its birthplace for the modification. Thats why I was asking if anyone had used a portable ac unit and is it a practical way to cool the trailer..
The ones that sit inside the camper and vent out a window.

This is all I can add. See post at link:
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...tml#post269662

The Tripp Lite portable is quite expensive, but it is very well made and fairly quiet compared to others I have heard.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by WDW

I did call the factory and they said they could add ac at the factory by first attaching a fiber glass shroud to distribute the weight. I like that idea but it is not practical to take the Escape back to its birthplace for the modification. Thats why I was asking if anyone had used a portable ac unit and is it a practical way to cool the trailer.. The ones that sit inside the camper and vent out a window.

David, I don't now how much help this might be, but a related observation and a thought. Observation: I recently toured a 16 ft. utility trailer that had been lightly modified by a motocross dirt bike enthusiast for triple duty: 1) to haul his motorcycle, 2) to serve as an on-the-road work shop for repairing and tuning his motorcycle, and 3) as a makeshift track-side sleeping quarter with bed, bucket potty, and one of those portable A/C units you're asking about. He cut a dedicated hole out the side wall of the utility trailer for the exhaust vent, and he said it worked great for sleeping and working inside the trailer in hot weather. The two factory side vents were still functional and provided cross-ventilation of ambient air as desired. His portable A/C unit (I didn't notice the make, but it was black) weighed about 100 pounds and didn't create any trailer balance problems. Thought: With the above in mind, you might want to consider leaving your windows as they are and instead, cut a dedicated hole through your camper wall in some convenient and functional location (perhaps at the base of the wardrobe) with a nice-looking louvered cover outside that can be capped when not in use - something like a clothes dryer outside vent. Surely there is something out there that could be re-purposed for that. Again, just an observation and a thought. Best of luck...

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

David, I don't now how much help this might be, but a related observation and a thought. Observation: I recently toured a 16 ft. utility trailer that had been lightly modified by a motocross dirt bike enthusiast for triple duty: 1) to haul his motorcycle, 2) to serve as an on-the-road work shop for repairing and tuning his motorcycle, and 3) as a makeshift track-side sleeping quarter with bed, bucket potty, and one of those portable A/C units you're asking about. He cut a dedicated hole out the side wall of the utility trailer for the exhaust vent, and he said it worked great for sleeping and working inside the trailer in hot weather. The two factory side vents were still functional and provided cross-ventilation of ambient air as desired. His portable A/C unit (I didn't notice the make, but it was black) weighed about 100 pounds and didn't create any trailer balance problems. Thought: With the above in mind, you might want to consider leaving your windows as they are and instead, cut a dedicated hole through your camper wall in some convenient and functional location (perhaps at the base of the wardrobe) with a nice-looking louvered cover outside that can be capped when not in use - something like a clothes dryer outside vent. Surely there is something out there that could be re-purposed for that. Again, just an observation and a thought. Best of luck...

Great idea ! I would like to add we have one of those units and it works great . Very quiet just moving air sound. We use a mod at the little doggie door . Cut a round opening in acrylic in place of doggie door . House doesn't have Ac so if we need we have . Pat

[War Eagle]

Quick follow-up - rather than cutting a hole through the side wall fiberglass, I believe there are several places in our 21' where we could cut a hole through the floor of a lower cabinet to exhaust a portable A/C unit, but I'm not sure where such locations might (or not) be in a 17B. But if you can, then when not in use, you can just plug the hole and close the cabinet door, and no one would even notice. We ordered our 21' new with the standard roof A/C, so we won't have to actually do that, but I think it could be done if needed....

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Quick follow-up - rather than cutting a hole through the side wall fiberglass, I believe there are several places in our 21' where we could cut a hole through the floor of a lower cabinet to exhaust a portable A/C unit, but I'm not sure where such locations might (or not) be in a 17B. But if you can, then when not in use, you can just plug the hole and close the cabinet door, and no one would even notice. We ordered our 21' new with the standard roof A/C, so we won't have to actually do that, but I think it could be done if needed....

I think just making a acrylic panel with the round hole needed in place of the open sliding window would be how I would approach exhausting air. Since I may not want it permanent Pat

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Quick follow-up - rather than cutting a hole through the side wall fiberglass, I believe there are several places in our 21' where we could cut a hole through the floor of a lower cabinet to exhaust a portable A/C unit, but I'm not sure where such locations might (or not) be in a 17B. But if you can, then when not in use, you can just plug the hole and close the cabinet door, and no one would even notice. We ordered our 21' new with the standard roof A/C, so we won't have to actually do that, but I think it could be done if needed....

Because of the bottom of the trailer being 'tubbed' you'd probably also want to put a plug in the bottom of the trailer, not just the floor.


In theory your idea of a bottom exhaust sounds good, in reality I'm not so sure....