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Old 07-17-2016, 03:49 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
I was actually looking at this enclosure as I came across this company when doing some mods on my fathers Scamp. Not sure how it would help though because with the condenser out front I would lose access to the tanks as they can no longer be lifted up and off.
Since the access to the tanks with this cabinet is through a door on the front, I agree that it would not work when up against the jack; that's why I suggested that it could work with tanks further back. I assume that a Casita (for which this box is designed) has the tanks further back than an Escape.

If stacking the air conditioning outdoor unit on top of something, the batteries are lower than the propane tanks; however, if mounting batteries on a slide for access, they would need to sit above the tongue frame rails rather than down between them.

If the air conditioning outdoor unit had to be stacked on top of the propane tanks, a different housing or frame which allowed the tanks to come out to the side would work... but I still wouldn't want all three major components (batteries, propane, A/C outdoor unit) on the tongue, and certainly not two of them perched at the very front.
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Old 07-17-2016, 06:12 PM   #72
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3" box frame

Considering that the 2010 19 trailer most probably has the 3" box frame that has failed and is modified by the mend plates, recommend caution when increasing weight on the frame tongue.
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:03 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
...but I still wouldn't want all three major components (batteries, propane, A/C outdoor unit) on the tongue, and certainly not two of them perched at the very front.
Do you have any suggestions for battery relocation? Dual propane tanks will be back against the front of the trailer with condensing unit out in front against the jack where the propane is now. This is the best for unobstructed access to the tanks and best clearance for airflow on the condenser. I'm not too keen on one of my original ideas to also have the dual 6V batteries upfront and turned to run lengthwise with the A-frame from near the trailer corner towards the front with one on each side. Would require welding on supports and would be a lot of weight at a potential (known?) weak point where the "A" meets the box under the body. The trailer does have the 3" frame and it has been welded to meet the recall guidelines. I could relocate to under the front dinette seats (one on each side?) in vented boxes or go to AGM's. I would like to stay with the Interstate GC2's because they are new, but could be convinced otherwise with a good argument. I could also make one work on each side of the rear bumper under the tail lights similar to the setup I've seen on a 17. Thoughts?
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:19 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Looks very nice- I bet those who need A/C are thinking this could be a really good thing. What tow vehicle do you have?
Rossue sorry I missed this. Trailer is towed by 2005 or 2007 Toyota 4Runner, depending on if it is being towed by myself or my father. Both SR5 V6 models.
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Old 07-17-2016, 10:20 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Do you have any suggestions for battery relocation? Dual propane tanks will be back against the front of the trailer with condensing unit out in front against the jack where the propane is now. This is the best for unobstructed access to the tanks and best clearance for airflow on the condenser. I'm not too keen on one of my original ideas to also have the dual 6V batteries upfront and turned to run lengthwise with the A-frame from near the trailer corner towards the front with one on each side. Would require welding on supports and would be a lot of weight at a potential (known?) weak point where the "A" meets the box under the body. The trailer does have the 3" frame and it has been welded to meet the recall guidelines. I could relocate to under the front dinette seats (one on each side?) in vented boxes or go to AGM's. I would like to stay with the Interstate GC2's because they are new, but could be convinced otherwise with a good argument. I could also make one work on each side of the rear bumper under the tail lights similar to the setup I've seen on a 17. Thoughts?
Depending on your front table seating requirements you could mount the batteries under the table, anywhere from a "skinny" to "normal" U-shaped dinette.

If you want to unload the tongue a bit you could put them under the queen bed - centered if you like.
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:37 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Do you have any suggestions for battery relocation? Dual propane tanks will be back against the front of the trailer with condensing unit out in front against the jack where the propane is now. This is the best for unobstructed access to the tanks and best clearance for airflow on the condenser. I'm not too keen on one of my original ideas to also have the dual 6V batteries upfront and turned to run lengthwise with the A-frame from near the trailer corner towards the front with one on each side. Would require welding on supports and would be a lot of weight at a potential (known?) weak point where the "A" meets the box under the body.
While I wouldn't want this much weight up front, the flanking-the-tongue location is sort of packaged like putting them in the ends of the Escape front box (which I realize this trailer doesn't have), so if the structure is done properly it would work.

In the out-of-the-box thinking category, you could also put the batteries side-by-side in the middle against the body as compactly as possible (which would mean 11" long dimension across trailer and twice width - 15" total - front-to-back), perhaps in something like a side-by-side box from Century, then flank them with propane tanks in single-tank holders sitting on each frame rail.
Using what was readily available (Google Drawings) and with only rough sizes (definitely not to scale), here's a layout following this idea - note that the batteries sit down between the frame rails so a small removable storage box (for light stuff!) could sit over the batteries, as long as it doesn't block airflow for the condenser. All dimensions would be need to determined and checked against the available space - the stuff might not fit this way.
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File Type: jpg Escape19TongueWithAC-battX2-propaneX2.jpg (34.9 KB, 35 views)
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:57 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
I could relocate to under the front dinette seats (one on each side?) in vented boxes or go to AGM's. I would like to stay with the Interstate GC2's because they are new, but could be convinced otherwise with a good argument. I could also make one work on each side of the rear bumper under the tail lights similar to the setup I've seen on a 17. Thoughts?
I wouldn't want them on the back. I realize that this can be done, but
  1. balancing a trailer by putting big masses on each end is fundamentally bad for stability (compared to keeping masses toward the middle), and
  2. the air conditioning outdoor unit is not nearly as heavy as the batteries, so putting it up front and the batteries out back is a substantial rearward shift in total.
Note that the 17' is differently proportioned than the rest of the Escape models, with a relatively long front body compared to rear body, so batteries at the rear bumper work better with it than with other models.

The practical closer-to-the-axles locations are under the seating or beds at the ends of the trailer. With a permanent bed at the back access would be better under the (front) dinette, and although I haven't run the numbers the tongue weight result seems likely to be better there.

For one-battery-on-each-side to work at the front, there would need to be room under the street side dinette seat for one battery... but that's where the black tank is. Is there room remaining for a battery there? My assumption has been that both would need to be on the curb side.

With any inside-the-body location, an access hatch in the outer wall and a slide tray would make access much easier, and would allow complete sealing from the inside. Slides are very commonly used for batteries in larger trailers, and even in Casitas (image from a FiberglassRV discussion below). The challenge is that these batteries are tall, and setting them on a slide makes them taller, so they might not fit under the seat, and might not fit within the height of the opening of an available external hatch.


I'm guessing that no one wants to reduce battery capacity, having become accustomed to 230+ amp-hours of capacity from a dual-battery setup, so the plan would be accommodate this size of battery set.

I would prefer AGM to reduce maintenance, but they won't save any space or weight, so if sufficient access can be maintained then it makes sense to me to plan for flooded batteries - you can still use AGM later in the same space.
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:59 AM   #78
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Where's the converter in a 19? do you have an inverter? Just wondering if there might be some electrical limitation to where you put the batteries.
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Old 07-18-2016, 07:03 AM   #79
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The converter is street side dinette next to black tank in the 19'. There may be room for a single battery behind the converter with another one on the curb side dinette. There is room for cables behind the middle divider panel under the table.
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Old 07-18-2016, 07:45 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
While I wouldn't want this much weight up front, the flanking-the-tongue location is sort of packaged like putting them in the ends of the Escape front box (which I realize this trailer doesn't have), so if the structure is done properly it would work.

In the out-of-the-box thinking category, you could also put the batteries side-by-side in the middle against the body as compactly as possible (which would mean 11" long dimension across trailer and twice width - 15" total - front-to-back), perhaps in something like a side-by-side box from Century, then flank them with propane tanks in single-tank holders sitting on each frame rail.
We are working with an experienced welder who has built a custom chassis for a street rod or two so we can accommodate and reinforce as required. Just for perspective our baseline trailer numbers are 3580 lbs (tanks empty, but otherwise ready to camp) with 360 tongue weight. Good proportions, but it looks like we need to trim a little fat.

Thanks for the sketch! As I'm sure you've gathered this is exactly what I'm thinking except for the propane staying together and centered against the front wall and the batteries flanking the sides. The reasoning being that single propane holders appear tough to come by and I figure it will be easier to extend wiring than to deal with the placement of the dual regulator and associated rework of the piping. It also allows the best access to the batteries without them "caged in" by the condenser and tanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
For one-battery-on-each-side to work at the front, there would need to be room under the street side dinette seat for one battery... but that's where the black tank is. Is there room remaining for a battery there? My assumption has been that both would need to be on the curb side.
I haven't measured, but there is probably room for one. We don't have an inverter or surge suppression (use external) and the black tank only protrudes partially into the front dinette underseat area from the rear, but with the batteries essentially shifted to the other side of the front wall I don't think my impact on tongue weight would be significant for all the work. I rather reinforce and leave them outside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The converter is street side dinette next to black tank in the 19'. There may be room for a single battery behind the converter with another one on the curb side dinette. There is room for cables behind the middle divider panel under the table.
This is exactly what I was hoping could be done if I had to go this way. One battery on each side with wiring behind the divider panel.
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