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Old 08-01-2019, 03:54 PM   #61
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a few extra notes

I'd suggest using fir or harder 2x4 (really 1.5x3.5") cut 6" long for the spacers, and predrilled for whatever sorts of screws you choose to use to secure it to the pedestal top (cut down to 8x6"). #10 screws are the right size for the brackets, but finding panhead #10 isn't easy, round heads are too tall, flat heads won't sit flush.... make sure the screw heads do NOT protrude higher than the cross rails or the table top might scrape on them, I had to grind mine down a bit.

the table top is NOT square, whack. its tapered so the back side isn't as wide as the front side where the bevels are cut, I assume this is because the benches aren't square either. this made centering the fore-aft slide rails interesting.
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Old 08-01-2019, 04:12 PM   #62
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and... its DONE! yay.

I think this is gonna work out great!
I think that it has worked out great.

Sometimes you have work through the possibilities to find the best solution and this one is neat, looks good and does the job.

I have the same Ryobi drills. What a deal they had; the drill, the impact drill, the sawzall, the skill saw and two batteries for 99 bucks. And then someone who got the same package didn't want the skill saw. I think that maybe he'd had a bad experience previously. Bad for him, good for me. I've really worked them hard and there're still going strong.

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Old 08-01-2019, 04:50 PM   #63
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yeah, I won the drill and skilsaw set at a charity raffle. its the more powerful 1/2" chuck drill, too. but the saw is only a 5.5" blade, max ~1.5" deep cut.
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:37 PM   #64
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but the saw is only a 5.5" blade, max ~1.5" deep cut.
But when you're two stories up on a ladder, reaching out to the side to cut siding out for window trim, that's not a bad thing. I longed for a skillsaw that size and portability for years. Using a full size saw like that isn't fun.

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Old 08-01-2019, 06:44 PM   #65
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John in Santa Cruz said>>>the table top is NOT square, whack. its tapered so the back side isn't as wide as the front side where the bevels are cut, I assume this is because the benches aren't square either. this made centering the fore-aft slide rails interesting.<<<

Agree with you John on the centering up the table top on the Dicor slider. There was really nothing square to measure on and everything can pivot or slide including the table leg itself. Ended up using 2 plumb bobs to get the table top centered in the space with the Dicor centered but it still looked wonky. Then I realized our Springfield base was installed by ETI 1" inch off center. With that revelation, I installed the top so that it looks ok even if it isn't exactly centered.
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Old 08-02-2019, 01:20 AM   #66
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My wife came home from her rare -over-the-hill- visit to her employer's office, to get her laptop upgraded, and I did show and tell.

she noted the obvious, the left-right gliders are kinda rough. I know exactly why, when I put the screws into my wooden blocks it kinda torqued those two 'angle brackets' that are the gliders. so I'll have to take the table top off and improve my fasteners. I really should follow my own advice and get some fir or better 2x4, and remake the riser blocks. I used fancy #10 x 1.5" deck screws cuz I had them handy, and I ran them into my 4x4 blocks at kind of an angle so they wouldn't split the wood. stupid. I'll drill some better holes in those angle brackets, countersink them for flathead screws, and properly drill the 2x4x6 blocks for #10x1.5 regular flathead wood screws. I think I can do all this in the trailer without removing the pedestal from the floor (cuz I don't want THOSE screws to loosen up, oh heck no!).
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Old 08-02-2019, 01:38 AM   #67
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Agree with you John on the centering up the table top on the Dicor slider. There was really nothing square to measure on and everything can pivot or slide including the table leg itself....
what I finally did was to use a large carpenters square on the back edge of the table to line up to the two rails equidistant from the rear corners and equidistant from the back edge such that their front edges were within about 1/2" of the edge of the bevels. yes, its fun measuring from a curved corner but OTOH, it only has to be close within a 10th or so since you can rotate the top section of the pedestal, and there's all kinda X/Y movement in the dicor slider...

anyways, even with the table all the way forward, it only barely grazes the side walls if you fully slide it left or right, but it contacts on the beveled corners of the table, which naturally pushes it back.

best part is, with the table all the way back and centered, either of us can get out without moving it. OTOH, when its all the way back, the table is rather off-center on the pedestal so I'd be cautious of putting too much heavy stuff on top of it.

I'm a little disappointed, when fully extended 'up' and locked, the pedestal isn't as rock steady as I expected. too much off center weight can cause the pedestal to tilt slightly. tightening the clamps does seem to help this some, but too tight and they don't want to go down easily.

reality, 90% of the time, our pedestal will be fully extended. only occasionally will I want to drop it to make the rear bed, so maybe clamping down tighter on the pedestal clamp screws is OK... otoh, being able to rotate the top section is kinda cool when we're both in lounge position, sitting crosswise on the benches with our backs against the rear corners.
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Old 09-30-2019, 04:27 PM   #68
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So, I’m getting ready to install my Dicor slider this week on a standard two “pipe” installation with a U shaped dinette. Has anyone done this? If I look at the measurements it appears I can simply turn the slider 90 degrees to accommodate the two caps for the pipes that descend to the floor. Thoughts?
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:06 PM   #69
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You'll need a piece of plywood screwed to the dicor's brackets, and screw your cones to that plywood. you can probably use the plywood that thats under the existing table for this, trimmed to fit.


this pic was me sizing things. I did *not* use those two 4x4's after all, instead used a couple 2x4's on edge. With the springfield pedestal I needed the 3.5" extra vertical space.
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:55 PM   #70
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That’s what I’m thinking of doing. I can use the existing plywood with the cones attached just turn 90 degrees since the cones run for and aft.
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:24 PM   #71
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You'll need a piece of plywood screwed to the dicor's brackets, and screw your cones to that plywood. you can probably use the plywood that thats under the existing table for this, trimmed to fit.

this pic was me sizing things. I did *not* use those two 4x4's after all, instead used a couple 2x4's on edge. With the springfield pedestal I needed the 3.5" extra vertical space.
So John do I need a spacer between the Springfield platform and the Dicor? Or did you do this for extra table height beyond stock? I thought I have seen them directly attached. I still need my full size table to lower properly into the bed position.
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:45 PM   #72
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So John do I need a spacer between the Springfield platform and the Dicor? Or did you do this for extra table height beyond stock? I thought I have seen them directly attached. I still need my full size table to lower properly into the bed position.
I mounted mine directly to each other. The table to is very close to the standard 30". We have used the table as a bed a few times, would never give that up.
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:53 PM   #73
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So, I’m getting ready to install my Dicor slider this week on a standard two “pipe” installation with a U shaped dinette. Has anyone done this? If I look at the measurements it appears I can simply turn the slider 90 degrees to accommodate the two caps for the pipes that descend to the floor. Thoughts?
Easy to do. Cut the piece of plywood to fit from the old mount and attach to the Dicor slide.
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:00 PM   #74
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Easy to do. Cut the piece of plywood to fit from the old mount and attach to the Dicor slide.


Perfect. Thanks for sharing! This is exactly my plan.
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:08 PM   #75
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Perfect. Thanks for sharing! This is exactly my plan.
My wife and I will be at Pineknot and you're welcome to come by. 2017 21 with gold graphics and belly band.
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:38 PM   #76
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:35 PM   #77
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So John do I need a spacer between the Springfield platform and the Dicor? Or did you do this for extra table height beyond stock? I thought I have seen them directly attached. I still need my full size table to lower properly into the bed position.
I have a 2014 21" which doesn't have the raised platform under the dinette. I needed /exactly/ 3.5" more to use the Springfield with the Dicor. With this 3.5" boost, if the Springfield is completely compressed, the table top is at 'bed' level, and with it fully extended, the table top is at the same height as the stock setup.

if you have the raised floor in the back, measure, and measure again, because my numbers are wrong
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Old 10-01-2019, 08:17 AM   #78
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My wife and I will be at Pineknot and you're welcome to come by. 2017 21 with gold graphics and belly band.


We hope to be at Pineknot and I hope to have it done by then. We can compare notes. [emoji4]
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Old 10-01-2019, 12:58 PM   #79
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and, I solo camped this last week at a star party (Calstar), and the 2-way slider was great. I mostly kept the table slid all the way back against the rear wall, made getting in and out of the dinette really easy. did all my eating outside, the dinette was mostly used for bedtime reading/lounging.
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Old 10-02-2019, 12:32 AM   #80
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Easy to do. Cut the piece of plywood to fit from the old mount and attach to the Dicor slide.
hmm, you have the dicor going the other way from what I did. I installed it so the 3 sides with the clamps are on the sides and facing away from the dinette.
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