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Old 01-24-2014, 01:17 PM   #1
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dinette table wobble

Hi all,

We've ordered a 19' and are working through the options and factory modifications.

The 19' that we saw had some side-to-side wobble in the dinette table, which was more than just play in the slider. I guess some don't have this, but other do and I'd like to avoid it if possible. Seems that the following has been discussed:

1. Two Zwaardvis 60mm legs/mounts. Pricey, but reportedly good quality.

2. Two ITC Sequoia legs/mounts. I've seen a single leg/mount in a Pleasureway and it seemed pretty solid, but the reviews on Amazon are mixed.

3. One Springfield 3-stage pedestal. Pricey, but easier to convert to/from a bed.

4. A board along the wall supporting the table edge. Presumably the board could be mounted on blocks molded to the fiberglass on a new build.

Actual experience with any of these approaches (positive or negative) is much appreciated.

Bill R
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:44 PM   #2
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You are right Bill, some seem to have more trouble with wobble than others. Ours does have a bit, but it really is not that bad. I have looked at your first option before, and it would be the option I go with. Our table is almost always in the up position, so do not need anything adjustable.
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:06 PM   #3
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We went with the Springfield pedestal in a U-shaped dinette and a front-to-back sliding table in our 19 and are very happy with it. The only downside - you can't (easily) remove the table completely for underseat storage access.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:01 PM   #4
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I bought a Sequoia to try and it is more shaky than the standard chrome leg. Just an FYI.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
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I bought a Sequoia to try and it is more shaky than the standard chrome leg. Just an FYI.
So are you still using your X leg folding table? Is it still working out for you?
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:07 PM   #6
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Very helpful replies, thanks.

techfan, this is great to know. It would be really disappointing to spend extra to have Escape install something that is worse than stock.

jamman, three followup questions:

1. Is raising and lowering done by releasing the two section clamp knobs, pushing it up or down, and tightening? The description says "air-driven", but I don't know what that means.

2. Do you think one Springfield pedestal is sturdy enough for a standard 19' dinette (43x30") and side-to-side slider? I'm not sure of the size of your U-shaped dinette.

3. Is Walmart as good as any place to purchase this?

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Old 01-24-2014, 10:31 PM   #7
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So are you still using your X leg folding table? Is it still working out for you?
Yes, we still find that working the best since we have to convert to bed every night. So... I have a Sequoia available. I think they were designed for boats and much smaller tables. The table mass can't be large.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:05 AM   #8
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Very helpful replies, thanks.

techfan, this is great to know. It would be really disappointing to spend extra to have Escape install something that is worse than stock.

jamman, three followup questions:

1. Is raising and lowering done by releasing the two section clamp knobs, pushing it up or down, and tightening? The description says "air-driven", but I don't know what that means.

2. Do you think one Springfield pedestal is sturdy enough for a standard 19' dinette (43x30") and side-to-side slider? I'm not sure of the size of your U-shaped dinette.

3. Is Walmart as good as any place to purchase this?

Bill R
1) The section clamps are levers, not knobs. Release and raise/lower. The top section also turns when released. The "air-driven" feels like a gas pressured strut - intended to roughly balance out the weight of the table. The table comes up without much effort and needs to be pushed down.

2) I think so.

3) I don't know. I bought mine elsewhere for about $10 more because Wal-Mart was out of stock.
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:29 AM   #9
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Thanks, Jamman!

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Old 01-28-2014, 06:43 PM   #10
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Reading the voluminous forums has uncovered another 19' dinette table option -- using a hinge attached to the wall with a fold-out leg like the 15' and 17' (and Scamps).

For folks that have the hinged table, is there any wobble?

For the folks that did this in the 19' front, how much table did you lose on the driver side by the bathroom corner? I think the standard 2-post tables are 43" long and start the 45-degree notch at 34.5".

Techfan, that was clever what you did with the folding table. Do you like that better than say a 2/3 hinged table with a 1/3 filler?

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Old 01-28-2014, 07:46 PM   #11
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Techfan, that was clever what you did with the folding table. Do you like that better than say a 2/3 hinged table with a 1/3 filler?

Bill R
Bill, one of the issues was how much length the folding leg needs. The table must be as long as the folding leg. Our table can also be moved. We knew that we wanted a fixed shelf at the rear to hold our Travasak. I am toying with making a table top that is larger but offsetting the legs so the back of the table covers the back shelf. The reason for the shorter table is to avoid either the cut corners or the moveable top so one can get in to the bench. We have a smaller table but can easily sit down and get out. The hinged folding table is going to be the most sturdy but it will be limited by the length of the folding leg.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:19 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bill R View Post
Reading the voluminous forums has uncovered another 19' dinette table option -- using a hinge attached to the wall with a fold-out leg like the 15' and 17' (and Scamps).

For folks that have the hinged table, is there any wobble?

For the folks that did this in the 19' front, how much table did you lose on the driver side by the bathroom corner? I think the standard 2-post tables are 43" long and start the 45-degree notch at 34.5".

Bill R
We had that modification done and love it. There is no wobble at all, and it is very simple to take down and set up.

The length of the table ends up being 34". Escape will give you an extra piece to fill in the extra space, needed when you make the bed.

We were given the choice of having both sides notched, but decided we'd like the extra table area, leaving the passenger side square - (other than the asymmetrical appearance, this turned out to be a good choice.)

This works well for us because there are just the two of us. We wanted the smooth floor beneath the table for our puppy's bed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Escape table.JPG (205.0 KB, 41 views)
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:20 PM   #13
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Glennrose, thank you for the picture and measured table length. Very helpful. So your table ends where the standard table starts the 45-degree cutouts.

As you mention, the upside is no wobble, easier table-to-bed conversion, and no pedestal bases on the floor. I also suspect, as techfan mentioned with his table, it's easier to get in and out. Perhaps it's my imagination but the shorter table also makes it feel more open.

The downside is 9" less table and no slide.

Decisions, decisions...

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Old 01-29-2014, 09:43 PM   #14
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As you mention, the upside is no wobble, easier table-to-bed conversion, and no pedestal bases on the floor. I also suspect, as techfan mentioned with his table, it's easier to get in and out. Perhaps it's my imagination but the shorter table also makes it feel more open.
Bill R
We have noticed that it does indeed feel more open. Easy to sit on the bench and get your shoes on.

Definitely easy to get in and out; and nothing to fix or adjust with the slide mechanism.

We find it works really well and would do it again in a minute. More table for us means more place to put stuff (more clutter potential!)
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