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Old 02-25-2013, 07:50 PM   #41
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Very nice!
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:04 AM   #42
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Yeah, nice setup Dave.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:48 AM   #43
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Dave,

Is your battery in the rear? I've not seen that configuration before in a 19. Also, who makes that receptacle? That looks like the way to go. I checked out the trolling motor connector mentioned earlier in this thread and the receptacle and plug together cost $50! Hopefully, your version is less expensive.

Doug
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:18 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
I used a 30 amp marine receptical and SunSaver controller.
That looks like a 30 amp locking connector (NEMA L5-30) as normally used to supply 120 volt AC power to an RV (or boat). If so, that would make me really nervous - if a helpful friend or distracted owner connected it (and thus the battery or controller) to the campsite's power supply, it would be bad! Perhaps I have misunderstood the configuration, or I'm just paranoid...
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:04 PM   #45
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Cheap, weather-resistant, made for boats & RVs, easy to install. "PowerPark 20 Amp Power Inlet". Internet priced @ $25.00 from a RV dealer.

Brian the receptical is not NEMA L5-30...but NEMA 5-20P straight plug. It is very unlikely that 120AC can be connected due to the blade configuration and the fact that only my well versed wife and I ever fools around our RV & boat. Two toys never loaned out! I may do a warning label someday as added safety.

Doug this is a 2012 5.0 install. The battery is in a lip bolted enclosed box with an outside vent under the dinette located at the rear of the trailer.

I hope this helps and gives options to think about. I can add my second 50watt panel or opt in my 2- 6 volts for that northwest woods trip.

I thought long and hard before drilling a 1 7/8 diameter hole in the side of our trailer.

David
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:54 PM   #46
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Dave Said: Doug this is a 2012 5.0 install. The battery is in a lip bolted enclosed box with an outside vent under the dinette located at the rear of the trailer.

Oh, OK, that make sense. Well, this set-up is just about as expensive as my original thought of getting the trolling motor set-up. It's gonna cost around $50 for both plug and receptacle no matter which way I go. The Park Power ones come in white, which is preferable for obvious reasons, wheras the trolling motor ones are just black. I'll check with our local RV dealer and see if he can get the Park Power pair. Thanks for the information.


Doug
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:38 PM   #47
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Dave, whose panel is that? Poly? I don't know the difference as far as degrading, poly vs. mono.

Jim, we have a box. Now that we have had all of our dirty blocks and chocks and other stuff in there, not to mention the batteries, it seems impossible to get rid of even if we wanted to!
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:33 AM   #48
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Solarex (formerly BP) Polycrystalline silicon which holds up better over time. These panels are industrial quality with tempered glass & strong aluminum frames for portability. EVA laminate. UL listed FM approved.
They should run 12years @90%. Not cheap! This is a very competitive industry and you basically get what you pay for. There are lots of cheap panels that delaminate and the surface yellows out much like vehicle headlights over time which kills your output. Most built in China.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:21 AM   #49
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This topic is completely new to me. Was wondering if panels could/should be protected with something like Aerospace 303 when new?
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:36 AM   #50
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I think "303" is for vinyl,plastic, not glass.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:40 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
I used a 30 amp marine receptical and SunSaver controller.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
Brian the receptical is not NEMA L5-30...but NEMA 5-20P straight plug. It is very unlikely that 120AC can be connected due to the blade configuration and the fact that only my well versed wife and I ever fools around our RV & boat.
Okay, not the common 30 amp, instead the still standard but much less common 20 amp. Any straight 20 amp cable would plug in, but with that connector not being used for AC on the trailer I can see that's very unlikely. Although campsites sometimes have 20 amp service, I've never heard of any actually using 5-20 connectors with an RV.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:20 AM   #52
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I Googled Park Power and they are made by Marinco. The part numbers are:

Plug - 5369RV
Receptacle - 200BBIW-RV (20 amp)

Our local RV dealer stocks Marinco stuff so I'm going to see if they can get these for me. This will take care of the trailer end of the cable run. Now to figure out the panel end. Not enough room for the above setup.

Doug
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:41 AM   #53
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All though I am no expert or EE, I have used lots of solar panels for industrial projects powering equipment at remote locations.
Others may have their own opinions or be more knowledge.

Monocrystaline silicon panels are abit more expensive and they give more bang for the buck at first use. But it seems in the long run don't seem to last as long or maybe I just fell for an inferior panel. I now stick with a manufacture and type that has worked well for my applications. There are trade offs.

Who knows which panel type and manufacture Escape Industries is installing on the roof? Poly has sections of mixed silicon in rows and Mono is identified by individual square cells in a group.

Keeping the panel surface helps greatly. Sea birds can shut you down in stationary locations. If you see your output fall off some, inspect & clean your surface first.

Some cheap built panels have a soft laminate surface which makes them prone to fail in my opinion. Maybe 303 would help.

Shop around, you may find the electrical materials cheaper to save cost. I already had most of it "rat packed" away which swayed my decisions.

Having said all this, I still like instant/reliable Honda power. Just one more option to use. Which makes me no tree hugger!
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:45 AM   #54
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Don't get me wrong, I like the stuff too and do use it but I think there are those who think it should be used for everything.
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:39 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post

Who knows which panel type and manufacture Escape Industries is installing on the roof? Poly has sections of mixed silicon in rows and Mono is identified by individual square cells in a group.
Escape uses a 95 watt monocrystalline panel distributed by GoPower. 95 watt Solar Module | GPElectric

I have an 80 watt multicrystalline panel manufactured by BP on my Escape 5.0 which I bought and had Escape install for me during the build process and it has worked very well. I have a GoPower 300 watt pure sine inverter which gives me all the 120 volts I will ever need for my toys. This inverter can also be remote switch wired using just a regular light switch so their is no phantom draw from the inverter when you are not using it which is an added bonus.

Barry
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:19 PM   #56
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This just keeps getting better. I went down to our local RV dealer to order the Marinco receptacle and plugs mentioned in my previous post. Both have been discontinued. The only ones still available are the ones that will accept a standard 120-volt extension cord. Not a good idea. So, it's back to the $50 trolling motor pair. GEESH !

Doug
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:24 PM   #57
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Hi Doug,

Go to AdventureRV.net $17.89 US + shipping
item# S068-558987
The plug can be bought at a hardware or big box builder store

Barry...Sweet setup! I also enjoyed your photos. Bring your camera to Texas.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:21 PM   #58
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Doug,

I contacted Marinco and they are not discontinued. Renee Baye, a customer service rep suggested sending your zip code and they would provide a distributor for purchase.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:56 PM   #59
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Thanks, Dave. I don't know why our store here was told they were discontinued. I won't need to pursue it because I will be picking up a set of the trolling motor connectors tomorrow.

Doug
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