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Old 02-25-2013, 08:50 PM   #41
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Very nice!
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:04 AM   #42
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Yeah, nice setup Dave.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:48 PM   #43
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Dave,

Is your battery in the rear? I've not seen that configuration before in a 19. Also, who makes that receptacle? That looks like the way to go. I checked out the trolling motor connector mentioned earlier in this thread and the receptacle and plug together cost $50! Hopefully, your version is less expensive.

Doug
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
I used a 30 amp marine receptical and SunSaver controller.
That looks like a 30 amp locking connector (NEMA L5-30) as normally used to supply 120 volt AC power to an RV (or boat). If so, that would make me really nervous - if a helpful friend or distracted owner connected it (and thus the battery or controller) to the campsite's power supply, it would be bad! Perhaps I have misunderstood the configuration, or I'm just paranoid...
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:04 PM   #45
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Cheap, weather-resistant, made for boats & RVs, easy to install. "PowerPark 20 Amp Power Inlet". Internet priced @ $25.00 from a RV dealer.

Brian the receptical is not NEMA L5-30...but NEMA 5-20P straight plug. It is very unlikely that 120AC can be connected due to the blade configuration and the fact that only my well versed wife and I ever fools around our RV & boat. Two toys never loaned out! I may do a warning label someday as added safety.

Doug this is a 2012 5.0 install. The battery is in a lip bolted enclosed box with an outside vent under the dinette located at the rear of the trailer.

I hope this helps and gives options to think about. I can add my second 50watt panel or opt in my 2- 6 volts for that northwest woods trip.

I thought long and hard before drilling a 1 7/8 diameter hole in the side of our trailer.

David
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:54 PM   #46
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Dave Said: Doug this is a 2012 5.0 install. The battery is in a lip bolted enclosed box with an outside vent under the dinette located at the rear of the trailer.

Oh, OK, that make sense. Well, this set-up is just about as expensive as my original thought of getting the trolling motor set-up. It's gonna cost around $50 for both plug and receptacle no matter which way I go. The Park Power ones come in white, which is preferable for obvious reasons, wheras the trolling motor ones are just black. I'll check with our local RV dealer and see if he can get the Park Power pair. Thanks for the information.


Doug
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:38 AM   #47
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Dave, whose panel is that? Poly? I don't know the difference as far as degrading, poly vs. mono.

Jim, we have a box. Now that we have had all of our dirty blocks and chocks and other stuff in there, not to mention the batteries, it seems impossible to get rid of even if we wanted to!
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:33 AM   #48
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Solarex (formerly BP) Polycrystalline silicon which holds up better over time. These panels are industrial quality with tempered glass & strong aluminum frames for portability. EVA laminate. UL listed FM approved.
They should run 12years @90%. Not cheap! This is a very competitive industry and you basically get what you pay for. There are lots of cheap panels that delaminate and the surface yellows out much like vehicle headlights over time which kills your output. Most built in China.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:21 AM   #49
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This topic is completely new to me. Was wondering if panels could/should be protected with something like Aerospace 303 when new?
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:36 AM   #50
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I think "303" is for vinyl,plastic, not glass.
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