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Old 02-20-2013, 08:56 PM   #1
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DIY Solar Installation Question

When installing the cable from the solar array to the battery charge controller, how and where did you route it through the trailer body? I am considering getting one of the outboard mounted receptacles to use when hooked up to shore power to get rid of the pesky cord and thought one may work for the solar cable too if installed on the driver's side toward the front of the trailer. Does that sound like a good idea?

Doug
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:18 PM   #2
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Doug:

You will see the method that Escape used on our trailer here:

Ladybug goes solar! | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

The cable was routed through the driver side upper cabinets.

Escape does an excellent job of installation at a reasonable cost if you want to consider that alternative.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:49 PM   #3
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Our panels will not be mounted on the roof but rather will be portable. Therefore, I will have to get the cable into the Escape, preferably at or near the driver's side dinette bench where the inverter and EMS are located. Hence, my question about using an outboard power receptacle.

Doug
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:17 AM   #4
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I was looking for something like that too, Doug. I am sure I saw something on a site once, but haven't been able to find it since. I think one of those shore power connectors would be a bit overkill.

Another source might be an industrial electronic supplier, as there are lots of applications like this used on outdoor equipment.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:54 AM   #5
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I used a standard 12v exterior receptacle and plug
Amazon.com: Perko 1190DP0CHR 12V Marine Watertight Deck Connection: Sports & Outdoors
You should make the entry close to the battery. Keep the distance between the exterior receptable, charge controller, and the battery as short as possible. Connect the controller directly to the battery for maximum efficency. I am asuming that the batteries are inside the RV.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:59 AM   #6
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That does look like a decent solution, Jubal. Along the line of what I was thinking.

On most portable units I have seen, the charge controller is mounted on the panels, allowing a direct connect to the battery with the leads. It is not mounted inside. As long as it is weatherproof, is there any issue with that?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:34 AM   #7
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I went through this when I installed my solar system. I had upgraded to a replaceable power cord so coming through that the retractable cord connection (which would be much easier and protected the plug) was not an option. I wanted to be able to disconnect the panels at the trailer with a connector that was both watertight when the cable was connected and when underway. I also wanted to minimize the penetration into the trailer so the smaller the connecter the better. I decided to use these connectors http://www.bulgin.co.uk/PDFs/Cat83_s...0%20series.pdf, specifically PX0931/02/P for the trailer bulkhead. I also bought the protective cap so the pins are protected from the elements.
I have the 17B and wanted the trailer penetration close to the converter box and have as much freedom to move the panels to find the best sun. I ended up putting the connector above the license plate. The connector is protected from getting banged up there. The backside is close to the converter and has plenty of space to install the solar controller in that compartment.

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Old 02-21-2013, 10:43 AM   #8
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I like the look of those, Ben. The fact the pins are better protected when not plugged in is nice, as they will have a 12V potential on them.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
That does look like a decent solution, Jubal. Along the line of what I was thinking.
On most portable units I have seen, the charge controller is mounted on the panels, allowing a direct connect to the battery with the leads. It is not mounted inside. As long as it is weatherproof, is there any issue with that?
Ideally, the shorter the distance between the controller and the battery the better. There is less voltage drop and more energy is supplied to the batteries. The less connectors between the collectors and the battery the lower the voltage drop. The further the controller is from the batteries the larger the gauge of the connecting cables should be. It seems that we cannot always achieve the "Ideal" and there are trade offs that we accept to achieve our goals. There is certainly a point of diminishing returns of the cost/efficency ratio.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:21 PM   #10
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We have a 19 and the batteries are outside on the tongue. I want to bring the cable in on the driver's side right into the area under the front dinette where the inverter and the EMS are located, thus minimizing long cable runs. We are getting a Morningstar Duo contoller that will have the actual controller unit mounted in the inverter/EMS area and a remote meter that will be mounted inside the trailer next to the EMS read-out so we can see what's going on with the system. Also, in order to reduce the amount of wire, I'm thinking of attaching the controller to the batteries right at the inverter. After all, it's the same as connecting to the battery directly but using less wire. The controller has reverse voltage protection built in so when we're plugged into shore power it shouldn't affect the controller.


So many things to consider. What fun.


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Old 02-21-2013, 11:01 PM   #11
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I have not used them, but some people have suggested trolling motor connectors - suitable for 12V DC and significant current, sealed for outdoor use, and readily available. An example: Marinco ConnectPro Receptacle & Plug
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:37 AM   #12
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OK, here's another question. Has anyone actually put a hole in the trailer shell to install a connector for the solar panels? How is this best accomplished? What to watch for, any tips, etc? This isn't someting one wants to screw up <g>.

Doug
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:04 PM   #13
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I have not done the installation on a Escape or fiberglass shell trailer. I did the the installation on a Aliner with foam laminated walls. After carefully determining the location I drilled a pilot hole from the inside to outside. The pilot hole was smaller than the pilot bit in the holesaw that I used on the outside of the Aliner. The initial pilot hole was just large enough for the wiring. Might want to check with Reace for advice on wall thickness where you want the penetration.Wall thickness may determine the type of connector that you want to use (surface mounted, thru hole, etc.).
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:37 PM   #14
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For a permanent install on a trailer roof, these look like they would be good additional weather protection. Available in single and double entry. Click on the photo for a link.

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Old 02-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #15
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External Solar install on 17B

We got a 135W panel from CEA Solar. For me, the selling point was the case. I went portable rather than rooftop because I like the trailer in the shade but the solar, for some reason, likes bright sun. This meets our dual battery and usual load (LED lights, fan in hot places, DVD at night). What I did:

1. I used a troll motor connector (see above) for water/salt/capacity reasons.

2. Use a correct sized circle cutter/saw for the hole. Start slow and never let the saw get too fast or you will melt/burn things. The shell is only ~ 1/8 inch so the cut will be quick. Cut the "bubble wrap" insulation with a knife. Seal everything with marine "goop" sealant/adhesive and use stainless steel screws. I sealed the plug too. Corrosion is not your low voltage friend.

3. Use 10AWG wire. I used the excess from the rough solar wiring Escape did. Low voltage requires higher current and higher current requires larger wire. Terminate everything properly. The receptacle can terminate the wire directly but attaching to lugs and blocks should use the same crimp connectors the factory uses. Your trailer is a high vibration environment under tow and "wrap the wire" connections are begging for trouble. See (4) for the spectacular results. Tie wrap the new wire to the existing wiring harness so there are no loose wires here.

4. Fuse the "+" side entering the trailer! Any not-terminated line is always hot and if you short it, you will weld your wiring harness. I used an extra 20A resetting circuit breaker from my brake wiring kit. Attach the load side of the breaker to the lead going to the battery cut-off switch. Hint: I weld 1/8 steel with 20V at 100A. Dual batteries are 12V at 150A easily...

5. For location, I chose the space between the shore power receptacle and the water panel. Check the inside where there are no blocks or obstructions. The wire runs are short so no I2R losses.

Results? It work great. We are in the shade, the panel is in the sun and even with trees in the way, a day's charge keeps it in the green.
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:20 PM   #16
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Lieb, you got me looking at CEA (welcome to the Forum by the way) and they have some interesting stuff. This 130 watt folding portable RV solar battery charger looks interesting and seems to be completely self contained. It looks like it could be used without drilling any holes in the trailer and could be quickly hooked up to the batteries. Am I missing something?

Eric
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
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. It looks like it could be used without drilling any holes in the trailer and could be quickly hooked up to the batteries. Am I missing something?

Eric
Yep, any 19 without a storage box, and even a couple that do, have the batteries under the dinette seat, like mine.

I chatted via email with the sales manager for CEA because I was interested. They will ship to Canada for anyone interested, though will only do UPS, as they claim the package is to big to ship USPS. He was quite helpful though.

HERE is a link to the user manual.

He also sent me a PDF of the 10 Amp PWM Charge Controller they use, but it is a bit too big to upload. I could email it if anyone is interested.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:14 PM   #18
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CEA Solar

That is the unit we got. Yes, it is nice, especially the hard walled case. It is also heavy so I stow it in the pickup truck when we are travelling.

As for install. They have a couple optional plugs, a 12V lighter socket, clips, and round lugs. I kept the lighter plug and clips because they can be used elsewhere. the lugs don't work with the dual batteries because the leads are too short. This is also a hostile (corrosion and vibration) so I went for the bulkhead connector. The trailer operates in a hostile environment so loose wires and ad-hoc connectors is not my idea of a good time. What I did was take that set, cut off the lugs and wired it to the troll motor plug. I kept the fuse in place for the reasons mentioned earlier.

The charge controller on the panel will not apply power unless it detects a battery on the other end but the fuse is a nice bit of safety since it takes a second or so to detect the disconnect.

I also got the 25' extension cord but if I had see it, I could have fabricated one on my own. Just remember wire gauge. household zip cord will not do.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:29 PM   #19
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I ended up getting a Coleman 40W unit, the one on sale a few weeks back at Canadian Tire, for $100 (regular $250). Still on back order, and they said the order expects it to arrive late April, though they guarantee the price because of this back order. I really have had no trouble with my batteries lasting, but thought it would be nice to keep them topped up while boondocking.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:38 PM   #20
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Well, I know I won't be using one of the external shore power receptacles. Checked one out at our local RV dealer today...$182.00. It looks like the best, both in price and serviceability, is the trolling motor connector. A lot smaller entry hole required as well. As long as it will seal well it should work fine. Does anyone know what diameter cable it will take? I plan on using a cable with two #8 conductors which is roughly 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter. I checked the listing for the connector and didn't see any reference to its diameter.

Doug
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