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Old 12-26-2016, 09:20 AM   #1
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During build/after build mods

Curious to see what comes back on this question - I am always thinking ahead and in putting my build sheet together (17B) I am wondering what I should be thinking about for things Reese should do before I get Thistle Dew II and what mods would be nice but I can do bit by bit after the build... does this make sense I've learned about many things on the forum that I would not have considered just by looking at the build sheet. What "off build sheet" things did you have Reese do?
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Old 12-26-2016, 09:35 AM   #2
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12v drops in various places.

There is a good thread here. Somewhere.
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Old 12-26-2016, 09:43 AM   #3
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ETI can add additional reinforcement to walls (e.g., plywood backing to the lightweight plywood panels used for walls) in you think you'll want to screw something onto them securely later on. I believe they can also add studs where you would have similar, future needs.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:05 AM   #4
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Round table. Raised benches 3". No valances. Four drawers under the counter space. Switched stove to far end counter, turned 90', and sink in centre. Umbra hooks installed. No sink in bathroom. Outside shower installed on passenger side. Solar panel installed on the front of the roof. No 19 on front window, only escape. Two different colours for swirls and lettering.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:24 AM   #5
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Just so you and others are aware, there are a bunch of custom mods they have done in the past that they won't be doing any more. Some of the ones that seem minor, can really mess up with their production schedule. As production increases, they are realizing the need to streamline procedures to eliminate the potential for mistakes.
quote by Jim Bennett,
just to let you know as Jim points out, Escape may no longer offer some of these customizations we have become accustomed to because of production limits. So, as I always say, "No harm in asking" to find out what they will and will not do.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:33 AM   #6
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Some things when have thought about that are not listed options.


Move bathroom door up so there is no gap on top you see when you walk in.

Special size counter extentions that are not mounted and can be used later that will match your Formica

Pre-wired solar if your not getting it

Interior light switch at door

Wire outside lists together or add additional switches for them

Amber porch light

Toilet shut off valve

12 volt drops

Reinforce walls

Mattress cover to match cushions

Where your TV connections will be located

Whether to install the table or not

Enlarge a overhead cabinet doors for easier access
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:59 AM   #7
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Pre-wired solar if your not getting it

Interior light switch at door

Toilet shut off valve

12 volt drops

Where your TV connections will be located

Whether to install the table or not
These are some of the items I did deal with.

Reace is going to be using a new setup for solar ready. There will be a connection fitting on the roof that accepts MC4 connectors, plug ans play, well other than mounting the panels and installing a charge controller.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Enlarge a overhead cabinet doors for easier access
They will not enlarge openings in cabinets. Trust me, I tried. Seeing I am building the doors, it is something I can do later if I really want.
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:17 AM   #8
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Our off sheet extras include:
Toilet shut off valve
Extra bath light (for red night light)
Dual exterior showers
12V drops in all cabinets
Battery monitor wiring
2nd solar roof panel
Solar port for 3rd (portable) panel
Exterior lights on all 4 sides, amber lenses
Switch and wire to front box for later use
Vents in all cabinets and benches
Shelf in microwave cabinet
2 shelves in wardrobe
Matching mattress case
Matching throw pillows
Additional exterior grab handle (for kids)
Horst probes
Reinforced walls
Two tone exterior graphics
Extra sewer tube
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Old 12-26-2016, 12:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
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They will not enlarge openings in cabinets. Trust me, I tried. Seeing I am building the doors, it is something I can do later if I really want.
Oops!! Totally forgot: wider top cabinet opening/door in the back, enclosed top front cabinet with a wider opening/door also .
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
These are some of the items I did deal with.

Reace is going to be using a new setup for solar ready. There will be a connection fitting on the roof that accepts MC4 connectors, plug ans play, well other than mounting the panels and installing a charge controller.



They will not enlarge openings in cabinets. Trust me, I tried. Seeing I am building the doors, it is something I can do later if I really want.
I need more info on this. Maybe I need to reconsider the solar ready. I dont know if I want a hole in the roof for the next person that buys the camper.


They will still enlarge the rear cabinet door on the 19. I think they just use a 21 door.
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:39 PM   #11
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I need more info on this. Maybe I need to reconsider the solar ready. I dont know if I want a hole in the roof for the next person that buys the camper.


They will still enlarge the rear cabinet door on the 19. I think they just use a 21 door.
Reace never had anything to show me, but just explained what it was. It is a hole in the roof, but there are already plenty there. This does it in a way that makes adding in to it a snap. If you get solar installed, they run the cable through the fridge vent on the roof.

I could see that cabinet change, just so long as they can use stock cabinet doors.
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:58 PM   #12
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Klem ran his wires down the fridge vent for his panels. Showed it to Reace and isn't that how he runs them for his installs now? Couldn't solar ready use that vent as well?
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:25 PM   #13
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Klem ran his wires down the fridge vent for his panels. Showed it to Reace and isn't that how he runs them for his installs now? Couldn't solar ready use that vent as well?
You probably could, but where would you leave the cable end for the roof at? I like the idea of the termination port better, so am going to have that installed.

Still contemplating flexible panels, though Reace pointed out the one time he did it dealing with compound curves posed a bit of a problem. Anyway, I will be doing solar, just not sure what yet.
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
Still contemplating flexible panels, though Reace pointed out the one time he did it dealing with compound curves posed a bit of a problem. Anyway, I will be doing solar, just not sure what yet.
If the 2 flexibles I just bought are any indication I question how long they'll last, got a feeling the surface of them will take a beating as they are just plastic of some sort. If I were to mount them to the roof I;d make sure there was a way to remove and replace them if or when it's necessary.

They are not all that flexible, I can see where a compound curve could be a nightmare.
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:34 PM   #15
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If the 2 flexibles I just bought are any indication I question how long they'll last, got a feeling the surface of them will take a beating as they are just plastic of some sort. If I were to mount them to the roof I;d make sure there was a way to remove and replace them if or when it's necessary.

They are not all that flexible, I can see where a compound curve could be a nightmare.
The surface is more of a hard plastic, something like a polyurethane, as glass will not flex. They would be more prone to damage for sure, but up on the trailer should do just fine. Hail would be my only concern.

The local solar company I have been talking to used to mount them with a bead of Dicor sealant, but uses LePage Quad Caulk, something I am very familiar with, as it is my favourite exterior caulk. Extremely strong bonding strength, retaining very good flexibility.

I plan to take my trailer to the shop to actually lay the panels on to see how they conform.

This solar company is also working on an adjustable base for RV mounting, with a regular panel of course. In talking to the guy working on it, I suggested maybe make it easily removable, so one could use it as a portable if needed too. Might be a pain getting up to get it down though. As you can see, I am still not set on what I will do for sure. Being solar ready will help out regardless though. If I go with two panels, I could either wire them in in series on the roof, or plug them both in separate for running in parallel. If going with portable too, I would likely do parallel, and then could plug the portable in in parallel as well down by the controller, which will be near the batteries.
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:49 PM   #16
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I dont know if I want a hole in the roof for the next person that buys the camper.
Well sometime if you get the chance to look down on the roof you'll run out of fingers and toes counting the holes that are already in the roof. Seriously, there are many holes already and one more for something important like a solar panel isn't going to be a problem. If fact, I'd consider it a selling point.

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Old 12-26-2016, 05:02 PM   #17
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I know this goes against the idea that ETI is reducing custom mods due to production increases, but has anyone officially asked about adding or helping to accommodate for a mini split air conditioner (heat pump)? I know some that were working on build sheets were very interested in pursuing this with ETI after seeing my mod.
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:10 PM   #18
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They will still enlarge the rear cabinet door on the 19. I think they just use a 21 door.
They just did when they built ours last month. I'm not sure if it's the same size as the 21, but here's how it looked on our build sheet.

IMG_2349.jpg
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:12 PM   #19
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They just did when they built ours last month. I'm not sure if it's the same size as the 21, but here's how it looked on our build sheet.

Attachment 20773
Exactly how it looks on our build sheet. Actually seeing your build pictures reminded me to add it.
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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   #20
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The lack of roof area without compound curves is an issue for mounting flexible panels directly to the roof. Also, the lack of height above the roof will make shading problems even worse than with conventionally mounted panels.

The 5.0TA might have more non-compound curved area that the other models, both due to overall size and due to the different roof shape. If the two sloped sections are each straight (as seen in side view), they could be two large cylindrical (not flat, but only curved in one direction) areas which would accommodate these panels well. I'm looking forward to seeing what Jim finds with his 2017 5.0TA.

This leads to a modification possibility:
Are there any bits sticking up from the roof, both interrupting available space and casting shadows on panels, which could be eliminated? The forward section has the egress hatch, which is required for safety. In the new 5.0TA body, can a side window be made tall enough to accommodate an egress window, allowing the roof hatch to be omitted and leaving a large space on the highest, most horizontal, and least shaded part of the roof? The owner could then add a flexible panel or two.
I've already read in this forum that Escape won't omit either of the roof ventilation openings, which are then occupied by tall power vents or an air conditioner. Did someone say that they were able to have Escape omit the roof opening and vent assembly for the refrigerator, in a trailer to be equipped with a compressor-type refrigerator?
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