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Old 11-14-2012, 10:23 PM   #41
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We BBQ every night, for up to a month at a time, and have been using the green disposable canisters. Last summer we bought a 10 lb. Bottle, and can't believe we did not buy one earlier! We have two kids and a dog, so I can't imagine a long hose from the trailer to something with a flame being a good idea! We also have the ability to carry our BBQ short distances and use it, such as to our friends cabin deck last summer - try that with a long hose! It sounds like one of those issues in which people like what they have!
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:42 PM   #42
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Does the auto switching from the empty tank to the full one still work with your set-up?
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:53 PM   #43
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Yes Dave, it is all a matter of preference so each to their own!! If everyone did everything the same way, it would be a pretty boring world. And yes, we also have the option of carting the BBQ to the beach using the 1 lb green bottle as I do carry a few.

Gbaglo, I unscrew the trailer line from the one tank and hook up the bbq and campstove lines to that. The second tank remains hooked up to the trailer as per normal so we can run the furnace and boil water in the am for my bride's coffee. As we do all of our cooking outside, it is not a big deal for us to separate the tanks. Again it all boils down (no pun intended) to what works for you.

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Old 11-15-2012, 06:40 AM   #44
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I am not certain what you folk who have never used a hose think it is like in use. I have used one at high pressure off my tanks for years, and still do. I have just added the low pressure setup for the BBQ.

Never has it been an issue. not with any of the pets I have had, my children since little, drinking adults, or my grandchildren. It lays flat on the ground, and it is not like we set up our cooking right in the middle of things. The hose can for the most part run along the trailer, or under the patio mat if needed.

But, 'tis true. Everyone has there own preferred ways of doing things. As long as whatever the solution is works for you, all is good.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:08 PM   #45
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The hose sounds likes it can be a good choice. Jim, or others, do you not ever find that the picnic table is too far for the hose to reach?
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:22 PM   #46
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We like to move the picnic table for our convenience. If it can't be moved, we've always got out portable table: Folding Aluminum Table - Lee Valley Tools.
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:43 AM   #47
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Never had an issue with the picnic table being too far away when we do cook on it,, especially with a 20 foot hose. We also have a folding camp table that we usually use to cook on so the picnic table is free to eat on and entertain with. As grease can splatter when cooking, we can put the camp table away at night out of reach of bears, unlike a picnic table!!

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Old 11-17-2012, 11:46 AM   #48
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We finally last year got a Weber baby Q and were able to start to use our quick connect--I have a small aluminum folding table that I have under the awning on the passenger side of the table--We run the hose behind the wheel so no chance of tripping on it... Under the awning--pulled away a bit from the trailer and easy to get to... (and it it rains we are dry!) because it almost always pours while we are out and about...
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:23 PM   #49
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Hi Jane,

We are in the same situation as you. We have ordered a 15A for delivery in May 2013 (can't wait!), and are now working through the build sheet to decide on our options. We also want to keep our costs reasonable, but don't want to omit useful items as we will be using the trailer for many years to come. We will be camping mostly in NW Canada (Alberta and BC) and will likely always be off grid.

The options we have selected so far are:

Dual 6 v batteries (to maximize battery life)
Dual propane (as we will be far from re-fill stations most of the time)
Extra insulation and thermal windows (it can snow anytime of the year in the northern Rocky Mountains!)
LED interior light package (again to maximize battery life)
Front storage box (to keep wet/dirty gear)
Equalizer hitch (with dual propane, two batteries and storage box on the front, the tongue weight will be heavy, even for our 4Runner)
Bike rack ready (our 5 year-old daughter likes her bike)
Hitch wheel (for easy positioning on pavement)

We will likely add wiring for solar (great idea from this site), but will buy panels later if needed. We already have a brake controller, and consider this essential in the mountains.

We are still considering the high lift axle as we will likely be on many dirt roads (it would be really great if someone could post pictures of the high lift axle on a 15 or 17 Escape).

We have not considered the propane quick connect mostly because we are used to using our small 2-burner Coleman stove and moving it around as needed. We will think about this a bit more. Old habits die hard.

We are also likely going to reduce the height of the interior wardrobe/ closet (by approx. 1/2). I have seen pictures of this and it really opens up the trailer. There will obviously be less interior storage room, but there appears to be plenty of storage elsewhere in the trailer, and we will also have the front box for some gear. We are used to travelling light, so don't anticipate a problem with this.

Anyway, good luck with your trailer. We have been very impressed talking to Tammy and with the information provided on this site.

Richard
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:30 PM   #50
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Richard, have you considered putting your dual 6V batteries on your rear bumper? That is where we have ours, and we also have the storage box, plus dual propane. Perhaps ask Reace.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:44 PM   #51
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Here it is.

2008 17B with high-lift axle and 15" tires.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:37 AM   #52
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And here are a couple more of my 17B with high lift axle:
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:49 AM   #53
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Thanks for the pictures of the trailers with high lift axles. Do you need to put blocks under the stabilizer bars, or do they still reach the ground?

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Old 11-21-2012, 10:58 AM   #54
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Need blocks. It's one of the afflictions of life.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:30 AM   #55
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I recently made the most excellent set of blocks for the stabilizers (I have raised axles too). I cut four cedar 2x6's at 5 1/2" long to make 4 small square pads, and four cedar 4x4 blocks at 3 1/2" to make square blocks. These blocks are both small and light, and if the pad is fairly level, is all you need.

I also sucked it up and bought a couple sets of those god awful looking bright orange Lynx Blocks. I do a lot of boondocking and often need to level under the tires and add a bit to the stabilizers. Another compact, lightweight solution.

I find that the less you drop the stabilizers, the more stable they trailer is, so tend to build up fairly good under them. Kinda like spreading your feet when you want to brace yourself.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:57 PM   #56
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Yea, those ugly blocks can sure mess up a photograph!
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:07 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Yea, those ugly blocks can sure mess up a photograph!
I am thinking of buying a can of Krylon paint for them. Probably flat black.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:09 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I am thinking of buying a can of Krylon paint for them. Probably flat black.
I am the Queen of Spray Paint and can verify that it can cover up almost any unpleasant color on just about any surface.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:26 PM   #59
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We have a 15A with dual propane. To run a BBQ or Coleman stove we usually remove one of the tanks and take it to the location where it is to be used. Sometimes just connect directly to the tank while it is still set on the mount on the trailer tongue.

Propane from the quick connect on the trailer comes off the pressure regulator at the tanks. Most BBQ's and camp stoves require an unregulated pressure supply, thus the quick connect cannot be used. We also got a T connector which allows us to run two propane devices at the same time off one tank.
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