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Old 11-08-2015, 04:11 PM   #21
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My favorite is gluing the magnets inside the vent trim rings and making a simple vent cover. Great idea for any trailer!
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Old 11-08-2015, 05:53 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Chris R View Post
Ron, the hinges (3 needed) specified on the website are made from thicker metal than the stock ones. It would be hard to bend them. Although the screw holes from the stock hinge do not line up with the new one, most are covered by the new hinge.
Thanks Chris. I suspect that the bent hinges that some have had has been a combination of the two things. One the hinges are cabinet door hinges and a bit overworked being used as door hinges and secondly, when the door was open at that angle, being bumped at the outer edge was enough to bend them.

At any rate, I like your solution. I've already looked at my oak supply seeing what I had to make a grill for the bottom.

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Old 11-08-2015, 08:03 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Interesting! The bathroom door in Ten Forward is hinged on the other side and opens toward the loft. Hummm.
Hi Donna, for us, having the door swinging the way it is in the photo works well for night bathroom visits, especially when you are half asleep. I had switched it on our 17B, all it takes is a screwdriver, or better a power/cordless screwdriver. The only downside is a few screw holes to fill.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:07 PM   #24
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My favorite is gluing the magnets inside the vent trim rings and making a simple vent cover. Great idea for any trailer!
I think I used 3/4" rare magnets, the magnetic field has to be strong enough to hold the cover on the other side of the 1/8" plastic trim.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:17 PM   #25
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Looks as though you upgraded at some point the cooktop as well. Don't see the controls for the one with the stainless grates. Also, are the dinette benches a tad deeper?

Lastly, are you available for customization for us mortals?
Hi Ross, the controls are on the right side of the cooktop and it doesn't need a barbecue starter to ignite the burner. Works the same way that a house gas cooktop works, simmers well too.

The dinette benches are shallower (at the bottom of the upright cushion) by about 4" as the cushion backs have foam wedges behind them. Fits the body better.

I was thinking about custom upgrade kits, but I suspect they would be cost prohibitive due to shipping and no 2 trailers are built the same.
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:54 PM   #26
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new bathroom door

Given that many people are posting what they have been working on lately, I might as well do the same. As some of you know, I have extensively modified my trailer and one of those mods was the bathroom door. When we got the trailer, I had ETI install the door with no gap at the top so I could add a louvered vent at the bottom. Once home, I added towel rails to the inside and upgraded the hinges for stiffer ones that would allow the door open further. It has worked well, but the other day, I was challenged to see if I could build a better door.

A new door had to include the following items; medicine cabinet, mirror, vent, towel rails, light weight and have a curved front to match the other doors in the trailer. If you are interested in how it was made, you can go to the post here, then scroll down the page or back to the first post and use the link there.
Now I have to figure out what to do with the old door.
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:06 PM   #27
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First rate Chris, as always. Really ties the door design to the rest of the cabinetry. How much does the door weigh?
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:07 PM   #28
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Very nicely done. The factory door is one of my least liked parts on the trailer.

And the hinges

Can't get off my butt and build a new one because I'm vacillating between an external one or one that fits flush.

OK, I'll bite, why do I see a medicine cabinet, apparently with more depth than the door thickness, and no back of the cabinet visible on the other side?

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Old 08-14-2016, 04:15 PM   #29
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OK, read your build log, mystery solved. Whoa, super nice job.

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Old 08-14-2016, 04:33 PM   #30
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First rate Chris, as always. How much does the door weigh?
The stock door was 13 lbs and this one is around 20 lbs. I don't know exactly since I hung the door before I add the towel rails and mirror.
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:44 PM   #31
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The stock door was 13 lbs and this one is around 20 lbs. I don't know exactly since I hung the door before I add the towel rails and mirror.
Chris another excellent improvement ! Like that you used the door for medicine cabinet not taking away from bath space ! Pat
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:24 PM   #32
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Great work Chris.
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:57 PM   #33
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The stock door was 13 lbs and this one is around 20 lbs. I don't know exactly since I hung the door before I add the towel rails and mirror.
Hi: Chris R... Great Mod nicely done. Sure hope you don't need all that space for large bottles of pain meds!!!
Personally I could use details on the handrails/holds for the stairs. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:31 AM   #34
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Hi: Chris R... Great Mod nicely done. Sure hope you don't need all that space for large bottles of pain meds!!!
Personally I could use details on the handrails/holds for the stairs. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Alf, here are some details, we find the handrails are very useful, especially at night and are simple to make, at least the passenger side one is.
I picked up a length of red oak dowel 1 ¼ inch in diameter, it is comfortable size when held.
The spacers between the wall and the dowel are made from anodized aluminum pipe available at most hardware stores, I think I got ½ inch diameter pipe. One spacer for each screw, about 1 1/8 inch long, one end was filed to fit the dowel.

Passenger side
The screws (3) on the passenger side are 3 ½ inch deck screws. There is lots of material at the edge of this wall to screw into on this side. This dowel is 42 inches long

Drivers/bathroom side
I knew I want to add a handrail to this side and had Reace put wider framing at the corner in the wall. I think if you are careful, you should be able to find enough framing to attach a rail to. I made a combo angled/vertical one, but even if you put in a vertical one at the corner if would be better than nothing. Other than the angle, attaching it to the wall is the same, except for shorter screws. The framing is generally 1 x 2, so only ¾ inch thick. I would add a couple of extra screws/spacers.

For both handrails, I counter sunk the screw heads and filled the holes with oak plugs. I did wait to fill the holes so that I could snug up the screws over several days.
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Old 08-16-2016, 01:33 PM   #35
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Chris you have done amazing work!

I think these types of threads should be restricted to the doer of the "honey do list", and not the creator of said list!
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:31 PM   #36
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