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Old 04-19-2015, 08:13 PM   #31
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Not having a trailer yet, I am only speculating, based on tent and tent-trailer camping only:
Only a little light still is bright relative to a fairly dark camping site. My intention is to add a switch within the trailer so I can turn on the running lights. This will light up both sides, front and rear. It will be enough light to discern whatever is there. It will dissuade wrongdoers and animals. It will not be as intense as the white outside lights, so not as likely to disrupt other campers. If I need more, the key-fob panic button will stir the campground.
And yes, we're normally dark.
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:03 PM   #32
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I can't stand it when folks leave exterior lights on all night. What? You're pointing out all the good stuff in your camp site so if someone wants to steal it.. they know where it is without tripping over other stuff? One nice thing about having lights wired to an interior switch, I can turn them on when I want. I have the three switches at the door. Top switch turns on the ceiling pancake light right inside the door. Middle switch turns on the porch light. Bottom switch turns on the rear (option) and driver side light and the one under the loft. I just need to remember to not screw with the switches on the lights themselves, or the interior switches don't work as I want.
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Secret for the front light, drill 2 small drain holes in the bottom of lens, stays dry now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
It could but it might take a little extra work. The footprint of my waterproof front light is a little smaller than the factory light. That light has 4 mounting holes plus a hole for the power wires. It might be difficult to find a waterproof light that could use the existing holes. An adaptor plate might be needed to cover the old holes if any aren't covered by a new fixture. Or look for one large enough to cover the existing holes. Or find a marine rated one and send it to ETI.

Ron
Thank you, gentlemen, for the tips. Will try the drilling first. But if necessary, will look for the marine fixture. Too late to send anything to ETI. Maybe I'm jumping ahead of things, since we don't even have the trailer, yet Better dry then sorry, though...
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:46 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I can't stand it when folks leave exterior lights on all night. What? You're pointing out all the good stuff in your camp site so if someone wants to steal it.. they know where it is without tripping over other stuff? One nice thing about having lights wired to an interior switch, I can turn them on when I want. I have the three switches at the door. Top switch turns on the ceiling pancake light right inside the door. Middle switch turns on the porch light. Bottom switch turns on the rear (option) and driver side light and the one under the loft. I just need to remember to not screw with the switches on the lights themselves, or the interior switches don't work as I want.
Donna have almost the same -3 switches top for the center ceiling , next porch , bottom for drivers side . To help marked them under with the labeling machine . Just need to remember not to shut ceiling light off too. Like to come in trailer at night with a light on . Pat
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Old 04-19-2015, 10:10 PM   #35
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Pat, it's nice and convenient to open the door and hit a switch and know that the light you expect to come on does. I'm happy with my decision to add the switches to the door jam. I know how I camp now and really don't need them, but the future? No crystal ball here. I just knew that all that wiring needed to be done during the build (under the vinyl) and I'm not capable of doing that kind of mod. YMMV
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Old 04-19-2015, 10:24 PM   #36
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Pat, it's nice and convenient to open the door and hit a switch and know that the light you expect to come on does. I'm happy with my decision to add the switches to the door jam. I know how I camp now and really don't need them, but the future? No crystal ball here. I just knew that all that wiring needed to be done during the build (under the vinyl) and I'm not capable of doing that kind of mod. YMMV
You got that right . Getting that wiring done under the vinyl . Glad we did it too . Pat
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:30 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by oldclimber View Post
Thank you, gentlemen, for the tips. Will try the drilling first. But if necessary, will look for the marine fixture. Too late to send anything to ETI. Maybe I'm jumping ahead of things, since we don't even have the trailer, yet Better dry then sorry, though...
Gae
My only problem with the drilling holes to let water out is that by then the damage is done. The socket rusts and the light becomes unreliable or stops working entirely.

If I had to use the factory type facing forward I'd try to preempt corrosion by (shush, don't let Donna hear) put a bead of silicone around the edge of the lens to make it more waterproof.

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Old 04-20-2015, 12:59 AM   #38
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Well, my real concern in my posting about the water tightness of the front light is the switch. Does the switch at least have a rubber boot over it? I asked Chrystal if ETI could install a light up front that did not have a switch integral with the light. Answer was no.

Anyone out there having trouble with their exterior lights? And what has been the problem?

Thanks .... Tom
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:34 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by StarvingHyena View Post
Well, my real concern in my posting about the water tightness of the front light is the switch. Does the switch at least have a rubber boot over it? I asked Chrystal if ETI could install a light up front that did not have a switch integral with the light. Answer was no.
It looks like a very common style of exterior light - if a variation from standard practice at the factory is not practical, and the switch is a problem, a swap for a fixture without a switch later is likely to be straightforward.
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Old 04-20-2015, 02:08 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by StarvingHyena View Post
Well, my real concern in my posting about the water tightness of the front light is the switch. Does the switch at least have a rubber boot over it? I asked Chrystal if ETI could install a light up front that did not have a switch integral with the light. Answer was no.

Anyone out there having trouble with their exterior lights? And what has been the problem?

Thanks .... Tom
Actually I'd be less concerned with the weather proofness of the switch then the loose fitting lens. I've simply disconnected mine and they're no longer functional. The more exposed the light is to weather the more likely it will get water inside that will rust the lamp socket etc.

Ron
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