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Old 08-09-2015, 06:21 PM   #21
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Contact ETI before driling holes. A lot of the advise has been from owners that do not have a 2005 17B trailer.
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:38 PM   #22
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Yes. You don't want to drill through a wire run.
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarandipity View Post
Thank you, this was super helpful! Based on the responses here, I decided to go ahead and buy a rivet gun. I'm sure there will be instances where it will come in handy and I can use it to install my handle(s). Still deciding if I should put two in. I like your set up but I have an outdoor light where your outdoor handle is. I'll definitely be putting one in the inside frame where you have your inside one.
I would call Escape and make sure where you want to install first but you get the idea .Pat
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Sarandipity View Post
Thank you, this was super helpful! Based on the responses here, I decided to go ahead and buy a rivet gun. I'm sure there will be instances where it will come in handy and I can use it to install my handle(s). Still deciding if I should put two in. I like your set up but I have an outdoor light where your outdoor handle is. I'll definitely be putting one in the inside frame where you have your inside one.

Sara, Look for stainless steel rivets. Non stainless rivets are generally pretty lightly coated with any kind of rust preventative and will begin to rust shortly creating hard to deal with streaks.

Be careful when you buy a rivet gun. Ace Hardware variety guns probable won't be able to handle large (diameter) enough rivets. Sources might be West Marine -westmarine.com, Defender Industries - defender.com, and perhaps Amazon.

A call to ETI and you might be able to find out what they used and maybe they would sell you a few (buy extra) ... then buy your gun to fit.

Good luck,

Tom
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:10 PM   #25
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To badly paraphrase Sinatra, "Rivets, I've had a few"

If you're prepared to buy a pop riveter then that's a viable way to go. The only caveat would be if the handle you choose is held on with only two fasteners then I'd use a fastener that could be retightened if it came loose.

I used lots, too many to count on my little car. The floor is aluminum and is held on with 1/8" aluminum rivets. I wouldn't recommend s/s, even though I use them fairly often, because they are not as ductile as aluminum or even steel and require much more force to use. I have a large industrial pop riveter, and pneumatic and hydraulic ones that handle them with ease but consumer types don't work all that well.

I wouldn't worry about drilling into the chase just because there are wires in it. I don't. That's why I said to put tape on the drill and only drill until it just reaches the interior. It's very unlikely to hurt anything.

Normally, on thinner materials it's recommended to put a washer on the other side. Since that can't be done in this case what I'd do is get longer rivets than strictly required and set them by taking up the slack, moving the jaws down the shank and taking another pull. That puts a little larger amount of bunched up rivet behind the hole.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to post a photo of the handle you end up with so we can make sure that we're all on the same page.

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Old 08-11-2015, 04:32 PM   #26
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ETI contact for "where to drill" is the best advice. I do know the entry door framing is wrapped around a 3/4 inch thick piece of wood on the inside, but not sure about the outside. I have seen an ETI- installed grab handle on the forward side of the entry door on a customers trailer, but don't trust my advice.
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:36 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
To badly paraphrase Sinatra, "Rivets, I've had a few"

If you're prepared to buy a pop riveter then that's a viable way to go. The only caveat would be if the handle you choose is held on with only two fasteners then I'd use a fastener that could be retightened if it came loose.

I used lots, too many to count on my little car. The floor is aluminum and is held on with 1/8" aluminum rivets. I wouldn't recommend s/s, even though I use them fairly often, because they are not as ductile as aluminum or even steel and require much more force to use. I have a large industrial pop riveter, and pneumatic and hydraulic ones that handle them with ease but consumer types don't work all that well.

I wouldn't worry about drilling into the chase just because there are wires in it. I don't. That's why I said to put tape on the drill and only drill until it just reaches the interior. It's very unlikely to hurt anything.

Normally, on thinner materials it's recommended to put a washer on the other side. Since that can't be done in this case what I'd do is get longer rivets than strictly required and set them by taking up the slack, moving the jaws down the shank and taking another pull. That puts a little larger amount of bunched up rivet behind the hole.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to post a photo of the handle you end up with so we can make sure that we're all on the same page.

Ron
LOVE the pic of your car - would be fun to see it all put together. I can tell you're the expert on rivets based on the picture.

Here's the rivet gun I bought - contractor grade Amazon.com: Stanley MR100CG Contractor Grade Riveter: Home Improvement

and the handle - has four countersunk holes for install
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o02_s01

and some Dicor non-sag sealant for putting a little dab to prevent leaks if I end up installing outside.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00

Seems like such a simple little job, but it sure did take a lot time to figure out what to do. Thanks so much for helping me. I have lots of future mods in mind so this little egg is going to force me to learn a lot.
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:42 PM   #28
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I've got a couple rivet guns, but I need an explanation of how one uses them without acquiring a third hand. The handle opens up so wide that it takes me two hands to compress it, which is a problem if I need a hand to hold the rivet in place ( as in riveting webbing - material that you can't just press the gun against ).
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:56 PM   #29
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To badly paraphrase Sinatra, "Rivets, I've had a few"

....I used lots, too many to count on my little car. .....
Ron
Reminds me of a friend who built an experimental aircraft; I helped him with the electrical and comm.

He characterized it as a "love affair with a riveter" , especially after about 26,000 rivets. It's been flying for over 10 years.
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:01 PM   #30
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Here's my April Fools joke picture. I said because I had a very light trailer that it seemed reasonable that I could pull it with my super light car. Still amazed that I can drive on public roads with a car that I hand built myself.

Hat's off to Stanley for the good write-up specifying exactly what size and type rivets that can be used with it. Trust them, you never want to try 3/16" s/s rivets with it. Brutal

Nothing wrong with getting the details worked out before doing something visible like drilling holes in your shiny egg.

OK, enough talk, time to do the deed and send a finished photo.

Ron
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:05 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I've got a couple rivet guns, but I need an explanation of how one uses them without acquiring a third hand. The handle opens up so wide that it takes me two hands to compress it, which is a problem if I need a hand to hold the rivet in place ( as in riveting webbing - material that you can't just press the gun against ).
Little confused by that Glenn. The handles do open extra wide to release the waste stem of the rivet. Are you saying that when you put a new rivet in and lightly bring the handles together to grip and hold the rivet in place that the handles are too wide apart to use with one hand?

Ron
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:46 PM   #32
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Are you saying that when you put a new rivet in and lightly bring the handles together to grip and hold the rivet in place that the handles are too wide apart to use with one hand?

Ron
Exactly. I don't think my hands are extremely small either. Was hoping there is a technique I was missing.
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:49 PM   #33
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I had the same problem with my Stanley MR33, and my hands are big.
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:59 PM   #34
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Nice job, Ron. Looks a lot like a Lotus Super 7.


So what's the joke; you have a perfectly good riveted box-frame-construction vehicle. It ought to handle it.
Maybe the wire wheels aren't up to it? Eh!
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:42 PM   #35
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The only consumer type pop riveter I have is an old English brand. I can use it one handed but I do have to choke up on the handle a bit. Glenn, it looks like you might have borrow my air riveter. It takes about one finger to use. When you have hundreds to do it's the only way.

Well, the car should look something like a Lotus Super 7, that was the goal. Actually, with trailer brakes and lots of power I think that it'd do just fine and besides, if the manufacturer (that's me) says it's fine for that weight why couldn't I do it?

Wire wheels, take about grass being greener on the other side of the fence. When I was young and poor I'd have given my right arm to have some. Then when I could afford them I found out they're not all they're cracked up to be. If they're in perfect condition, great, but if they need a tuneup, awful. The classic case of be careful what you wish for.

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Old 08-11-2015, 07:08 PM   #36
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Mine is Stanley MR55.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:15 PM   #37
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Nice job, Ron. Looks a lot like a Lotus Super 7.


So what's the joke; you have a perfectly good riveted box-frame-construction vehicle. It ought to handle it.
Maybe the wire wheels aren't up to it? Eh!
Isn't that the car Patrick McGoohan drove during the opening credits of, "The Prisioner?"
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:33 PM   #38
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Indeed it is. I didn't want one because of that but because it's the closest thing to a street legal go-kart. Pure fun to drive.

Well the Stanley MR100CG purchased by the O.P. might be better for one handed operation with the nicely curved handles. Maybe she can post a product review of one handed operation.

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Old 08-12-2015, 08:17 PM   #39
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We had our trailer in to Escape Trailer Industries and they installed a grab bar for us without charge:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_vansnell/4509173584
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:09 PM   #40
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I added an extra grab bar on my Escape 19 via the interior trim board which accepted wood screws and was able to reinforce the area. See post # 79 here http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...-a-1657-8.html
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