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Old 08-09-2015, 07:21 PM   #21
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Contact ETI before driling holes. A lot of the advise has been from owners that do not have a 2005 17B trailer.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:38 PM   #22
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Yes. You don't want to drill through a wire run.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:52 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Sarandipity View Post
Thank you, this was super helpful! Based on the responses here, I decided to go ahead and buy a rivet gun. I'm sure there will be instances where it will come in handy and I can use it to install my handle(s). Still deciding if I should put two in. I like your set up but I have an outdoor light where your outdoor handle is. I'll definitely be putting one in the inside frame where you have your inside one.
I would call Escape and make sure where you want to install first but you get the idea .Pat
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Sarandipity View Post
Thank you, this was super helpful! Based on the responses here, I decided to go ahead and buy a rivet gun. I'm sure there will be instances where it will come in handy and I can use it to install my handle(s). Still deciding if I should put two in. I like your set up but I have an outdoor light where your outdoor handle is. I'll definitely be putting one in the inside frame where you have your inside one.

Sara, Look for stainless steel rivets. Non stainless rivets are generally pretty lightly coated with any kind of rust preventative and will begin to rust shortly creating hard to deal with streaks.

Be careful when you buy a rivet gun. Ace Hardware variety guns probable won't be able to handle large (diameter) enough rivets. Sources might be West Marine -westmarine.com, Defender Industries - defender.com, and perhaps Amazon.

A call to ETI and you might be able to find out what they used and maybe they would sell you a few (buy extra) ... then buy your gun to fit.

Good luck,

Tom
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:10 PM   #25
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To badly paraphrase Sinatra, "Rivets, I've had a few"

If you're prepared to buy a pop riveter then that's a viable way to go. The only caveat would be if the handle you choose is held on with only two fasteners then I'd use a fastener that could be retightened if it came loose.

I used lots, too many to count on my little car. The floor is aluminum and is held on with 1/8" aluminum rivets. I wouldn't recommend s/s, even though I use them fairly often, because they are not as ductile as aluminum or even steel and require much more force to use. I have a large industrial pop riveter, and pneumatic and hydraulic ones that handle them with ease but consumer types don't work all that well.

I wouldn't worry about drilling into the chase just because there are wires in it. I don't. That's why I said to put tape on the drill and only drill until it just reaches the interior. It's very unlikely to hurt anything.

Normally, on thinner materials it's recommended to put a washer on the other side. Since that can't be done in this case what I'd do is get longer rivets than strictly required and set them by taking up the slack, moving the jaws down the shank and taking another pull. That puts a little larger amount of bunched up rivet behind the hole.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to post a photo of the handle you end up with so we can make sure that we're all on the same page.

Ron
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:32 PM   #26
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ETI contact for "where to drill" is the best advice. I do know the entry door framing is wrapped around a 3/4 inch thick piece of wood on the inside, but not sure about the outside. I have seen an ETI- installed grab handle on the forward side of the entry door on a customers trailer, but don't trust my advice.
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:36 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
To badly paraphrase Sinatra, "Rivets, I've had a few"

If you're prepared to buy a pop riveter then that's a viable way to go. The only caveat would be if the handle you choose is held on with only two fasteners then I'd use a fastener that could be retightened if it came loose.

I used lots, too many to count on my little car. The floor is aluminum and is held on with 1/8" aluminum rivets. I wouldn't recommend s/s, even though I use them fairly often, because they are not as ductile as aluminum or even steel and require much more force to use. I have a large industrial pop riveter, and pneumatic and hydraulic ones that handle them with ease but consumer types don't work all that well.

I wouldn't worry about drilling into the chase just because there are wires in it. I don't. That's why I said to put tape on the drill and only drill until it just reaches the interior. It's very unlikely to hurt anything.

Normally, on thinner materials it's recommended to put a washer on the other side. Since that can't be done in this case what I'd do is get longer rivets than strictly required and set them by taking up the slack, moving the jaws down the shank and taking another pull. That puts a little larger amount of bunched up rivet behind the hole.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to post a photo of the handle you end up with so we can make sure that we're all on the same page.

Ron
LOVE the pic of your car - would be fun to see it all put together. I can tell you're the expert on rivets based on the picture.

Here's the rivet gun I bought - contractor grade Amazon.com: Stanley MR100CG Contractor Grade Riveter: Home Improvement

and the handle - has four countersunk holes for install
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o02_s01

and some Dicor non-sag sealant for putting a little dab to prevent leaks if I end up installing outside.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00

Seems like such a simple little job, but it sure did take a lot time to figure out what to do. Thanks so much for helping me. I have lots of future mods in mind so this little egg is going to force me to learn a lot.
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:42 PM   #28
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I've got a couple rivet guns, but I need an explanation of how one uses them without acquiring a third hand. The handle opens up so wide that it takes me two hands to compress it, which is a problem if I need a hand to hold the rivet in place ( as in riveting webbing - material that you can't just press the gun against ).
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What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:56 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
To badly paraphrase Sinatra, "Rivets, I've had a few"

....I used lots, too many to count on my little car. .....
Ron
Reminds me of a friend who built an experimental aircraft; I helped him with the electrical and comm.

He characterized it as a "love affair with a riveter" , especially after about 26,000 rivets. It's been flying for over 10 years.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:01 PM   #30
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Here's my April Fools joke picture. I said because I had a very light trailer that it seemed reasonable that I could pull it with my super light car. Still amazed that I can drive on public roads with a car that I hand built myself.

Hat's off to Stanley for the good write-up specifying exactly what size and type rivets that can be used with it. Trust them, you never want to try 3/16" s/s rivets with it. Brutal

Nothing wrong with getting the details worked out before doing something visible like drilling holes in your shiny egg.

OK, enough talk, time to do the deed and send a finished photo.

Ron
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