Hepvo valve install for 21' - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-28-2017, 10:13 AM   #1
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Hepvo valve install for 21'

Parts needed:
(1) 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV SPG x SJ Trap Adapter
(1) 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV 90 Degree Hub x Hub Elbow
(2) 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV Hub x MIPT Male Adapter
(1) 1-1/2 in. x 12 in. PVC Flanged Strainer Tailpiece
(1) 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV 90-Degree Mechanical Elbow
ABS Cement
HepvO® - 1.5in. Part No: 5717

Pic 1 shows the Escape installed P trap. It's glued on and kinda hangs a little lower than I like. We're going to get rid of that thing.

Step 1: Remove the glued on P trap. I used a hacksaw as there is not enough room for a pipe cutter. Pic 2 shows cut drain pipe and connection to grey tank. The fitting to the grey tank is threaded - it might take a little effort to get it loose as Escape used a hard sealant to attach it. Pic 3 is the leftovers.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ABS Trap.jpg (274.4 KB, 163 views)
File Type: jpg Step 1.jpg (256.4 KB, 145 views)
File Type: jpg Step 1 leftovers.jpg (361.4 KB, 121 views)
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:16 AM   #2
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Step 2: Thread the 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV Hub x MIPT Male Adapter into the grey tank using sealant or teflon tape and using a piece of the 1 1/2 abs pipe, add a nipple long enough to clear the tank bracket seen just behind the fitting.
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File Type: jpg Step 2.jpg (249.8 KB, 124 views)
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:22 AM   #3
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Step 3: Make up your hepvo valve fittings. Thread the 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV Hub x MIPT Male Adapter into the end of the Hepvo valve. Cut the flanged end off the tailpiece and insert it into the 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV SPG x SJ Trap Adapter. Insert the 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV SPG x SJ Trap Adapter into the 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV 90-Degree Mechanical Elbow (rubber 90).

Place the 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV 90 Degree Hub x Hub Elbow on the grey tank stub, insert the tailpiece into the shower drain pipe, and measure the length needed for the nipple to connect the two. The pic Hepvo Fittings is what we are trying to complete. The pic Hepvo slope shows the nipple between the two fitings.

Cut the tailpiece and insert it into the Hepvo valve as shown in Hepvo assembly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Hepvo Fittings.jpg (401.8 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg Hepvo assembly.jpg (370.3 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg Hepvo slope.jpg (150.8 KB, 94 views)
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:43 AM   #4
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Step 4: Dry fit your Hepvo assembly to the grey tank nipple and measure where you need to cut the shower drain pipe. You want to make sure that fittings are level - at least not sloping upwards. Make sure that the Hepvo valve is installed as shown. The ribbed part of the Hepvo is installed down. Glue the Hepvo assembly to the shower drain pipe and grey tank nipple. Run some water through the shower to check for leaks and you're done.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Hepvo install.jpg (206.7 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg Hepvo Complete.jpg (260.8 KB, 81 views)
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:16 AM   #5
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Nice work, Tom. This looks pretty straight forward except for those who opted for the spray foam then it's a mess. Looks like removing the Ptrap also removes a low hanging potential strike point.
I'll have to take a look at how his will apply to the 19.
What was the ballpark cost?
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:24 AM   #7
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Neat mod. From what I remember our old 19' was very tight and did not have that much room due to location of the bath and gray tank but I will need to take a look when we get our new one.
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:59 AM   #8
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Hepvo valve

Looks good and if we used our shower more often I would go for it. For now the shower drain is on the check list.(inside, Nancy's) Our
casita from 10+ years ago had a shower drain valve we had to open from outside and I can see where that would be a big improvement. The lady I sold the Casita to called and said the water would not drain, she forgot I told her how to open the valve.
Jack
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:01 PM   #9
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Tom,
Could the 90 elbow have been a glued piece rather than a mechanical, or is there a reason for the mechanical elbow?
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Tom,
Could the 90 elbow have been a glued piece rather than a mechanical, or is there a reason for the mechanical elbow?
The rubber 90 allows the Hepvo valve to be easily removed/replaced. Without it, there is not enough give in the piping to get the fittings apart.
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:30 PM   #11
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Great job! Very nice write up too! Are you going to replace the trap under the kitchen sink too? That's the one I need to have done. Dang trap hangs down too low and nearly makes the back half of the cabinet unusable. Of course, a lot of that has to do with the fact I have a deeper sink that most.
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:37 PM   #12
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Great mod Tom! I think I may try that when I get back to Texas.
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Great job! Very nice write up too! Are you going to replace the trap under the kitchen sink too? That's the one I need to have done. Dang trap hangs down too low and nearly makes the back half of the cabinet unusable. Of course, a lot of that has to do with the fact I have a deeper sink that most.

I hear you Donna!

I think the sink p-trap would be even easier to replace and will free up very useful space. And you won't have to worry about access for later. (I want the spray on foam under my trailer.)

Rich
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Old 01-29-2017, 09:31 AM   #14
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I will definitely be giving a HepVo valve a try for the galley sink drain.

Not sure about the shower drain. I just looked and it is right behind the rear axle, and hangs down only 1/2" lower than the axle.
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Great mod Tom! I think I may try that when I get back to Texas.
You might want to buy the ABS fittings on the way back to Texas. It seems that few stores sells them here. I had to order them online from a Lowe's in Arizona.
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:47 PM   #16
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Not sure why, but I've run into the "no ABS" in Texas before.
While ABS is recommended, there will be little or no exposure to UV, so you could use PVC if you had to.

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Old 01-29-2017, 01:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP View Post
Not sure why, but I've run into the "no ABS" in Texas before.
While ABS is recommended, there will be little or no exposure to UV, so you could use PVC if you had to.

Walt
There would be no problem with this, Just ensure you use the proper transition type cement, and not on meant for ABS only.
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Old 01-29-2017, 06:51 PM   #18
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Not sure why, but I've run into the "no ABS" in Texas before. While ABS is recommended, there will be little or no exposure to UV, so you could use PVC if you had to.

Walt,

Gary Bunzer told us in an RV safety class that ABS is used in RV's because it's stronger and more rigid than PVC. My internet research seems to support this. I suspect that ABS isn't used in Texas because PVC is cheaper and ABS is not mandated by code. Since it's not typically used, no one stocks it. I buy my ABS fittings from Home Depot Online. Unfortunately, they don't sell the pipe, only the fittings. I bought a small supply of pipe in California.

I have limited experience working with ABS, but it seems much easier to dry fit than PVC. PVC seems to stick more readily when dry fitting. Being able to dry fit is a major advantage to me because it allows me to get everything just right, take it apart and glue it.

Rich


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Old 01-29-2017, 07:36 PM   #19
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I agree with the use of dry fitting and haven't had any problems with it on either PVC or ABS.
Fortunately Lowe's here has a good range of ABS fittings and pipe. I hadn't heard that ABS is stronger, but I've never experienced any mechanical failures on either.

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Old 01-31-2017, 03:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
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I hadn't heard that ABS is stronger, but I've never experienced any mechanical failures on either.
ABS is a lot stronger, nearly impossible to break. It you took a piece of each and swung them hard against a solid object, PVC will break, especially if colder out, whereas ABS will take the abuse much better.

In building homes, I have used PVC for sewer services when buried underground, but only ABS where exposed.
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