High Lift and Stabilizers (17B)

[BillM]

In the midst of a frantic house move and intermittant communications I am trying to finalize the build sheet for a 17B with high clearance and most of the available options.

I had a high clearance option on my last trailer and longer stabilizers were part of that package.

Reading others' posts I began to suspect Escape used the stock stabilizers which weren't really ideal with the high clearance option. I asked ETI about getting longer stabilizers and was very disappointed to learn that

You will need blocks underneath to accommodate for the lift.

After they had cheerfully added sand pads (air pads?) to my build sheet.

It may sound trivial but this could be a deal breaker.

Other than dragging along and aligning spacer bits under the lifts or more creatively bolting extenders to them (and reducing clearance) does anyone know of, has discovered or has used a more elegant after market solutions to this problem?

Or is it really a problem and the stabilizers actually reach the ground with lots of extra capacity on all 4 corners?

Thanks.

[LeonW]

Originally Posted by BillM

In the midst of a frantic house move and intermittant communications I am trying to finalize the build sheet for a 17B with high clearance and most of the available options.

I had a high clearance option on my last trailer and longer stabilizers were part of that package.

Reading others' posts I began to suspect Escape used the stock stabilizers which weren't really ideal with the high clearance option. I asked ETI about getting longer stabilizers and was very disappointed to learn that After they had cheerfully added sand pads (air pads?) to my build sheet.

It may sound trivial but this could be a deal breaker.

Other than dragging along and aligning spacer bits under the lifts or more creatively bolting extenders to them (and reducing clearance) does anyone know of, has discovered or has used a more elegant after market solutions to this problem?

Or is it really a problem and the stabilizers actually reach the ground with lots of extra capacity on all 4 corners?

Thanks.

This is kind of a surprise to me -- we had a 17b with the high lift option, and never had a problem with the stabilizers reaching the ground. But if you are really worried about that, Jon Vermilye screwed some blocks of wood to the bottom of his stabilizers and I am sure that would work.

[Brian B-P]

Blocks work, but I wouldn't add them. If I were to fabricate a solution to inadequate stabilizer leg length, I would put the time and effort into installing a more appropriate length of stabilizer, rather than something that hangs down and reduces horizontal stability. Unfortunately, the originals are welded on...

My current trailer (not an Escape) did not come with stabilizer jacks. I added BAL Light Trailer Stabilizing Jacks, and did it in a bolt-on installation. This trailer is low, so short jacks are still sufficient - height wasn't an issue.

[BillM]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Blocks work, but I wouldn't add them. If I were to fabricate a solution to inadequate stabilizer leg length, I would put the time and effort into installing a more appropriate length of stabilizer, rather than something that hangs down and reduces horizontal stability. Unfortunately, the originals are welded on...

... and installation during fabrication would be the perfect opportunity.

[BillM]

Originally Posted by LeonW

This is kind of a surprise to me -- we had a 17b with the high lift option, and never had a problem with the stabilizers reaching the ground. But if you are really worried about that, Jon Vermilye screwed some blocks of wood to the bottom of his stabilizers and I am sure that would work.

Your experience sounds encouraging. Was it equipped with the C jacks or scissor jacks?

I have seen Jon's picture and don't doubt that it works but it seems out of place on a trailer commanding these prices.

[BillM]

ETI confirms that they only offer one stabilizer with a total extension only 2" greater than the height of the frame.

I have to decide which is going to be more inconvenient, a standard lift axle with reduced clearance and departure angle or a high lift axle with the short stabilizers?

I am thinking that fussing with blocks under the stabilizers is not the way to go.

Advice please.

[gbaglo]

I add Lynx blocks. The front isn't really a problem. Depending on terrain the stabilizers will reach, but I add a couple blocks ( don't have to crank as much ). The back stabilizers can take four or five blocks each side for the stabilizers to be effective.
Adding blocks is no more difficult than cranking.

[Fox hunt]

i have Leon's trailer no problem with the stabilizers they work great no blocks.

[BillM]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

i have Leon's trailer no problem with the stabilizers they work great no blocks.

I saw that post from Leon. What year is it and which style of stabilizer does it have?

Thanks.

[BillM]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I add Lynx blocks. The front isn't really a problem. Depending on terrain the stabilizers will reach, but I add a couple blocks ( don't have to crank as much ). The back stabilizers can take four or five blocks each side for the stabilizers to be effective.
Adding blocks is no more difficult than cranking.

I use a 3/4" drill with a clutch to set the tension evenly on each stabilizer. Storing, fishing around and picking up dirty blocks seems to add a lot of complexity to what should be a simple task.

In about 800 nights in our last high lift trailer I recall using blocks 3 times. Twice in sand and once on the edge of a slope.

Curious why you need 4 or 5 blocks while Leon's trailer doesn't need any. A design change?

[gbaglo]

Here's pix of my 2008 17B with high-lift.

[jxoco]

I have a 17B, bought used so I don't know if it is the high lift.
I don't think mine is a high lift, but like you I want the stabilizers to be a bit better for me.
I've bought the foot plate that BAL sells for the end so that I don't have to carry pieces of wood, just start cranking up or down.
And I have been looking for a place that sells that food grade white plastic like the kind they make cutting boards out of, but about an inch thick.
The place I used to go to for plastic has disappeared.
Anyways I want to screw the plastic onto the bottom of the foot plate so that I don't have to crank so much and the stabilizers will be a bit more stable.
Then on to the crank down on the tongue, there are swing out things for that as well. Same thing, don't have to crank so much and carry around soggy pieces of wood.
So I feel for you.

[gbaglo]

You don't have to carry soggy chunks of wood. Just get a bag of Lynx blocks or similar.
They are relatively light weight. They don't absorb water and they can be used under the stabilizers and/or you can make a ramp out of them if you need to lift one side of the trailer.

If this 'problem' is a 'deal-breaker', I can think of a hundred other reasons not to go camping and just stay home.

[jxoco]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I can think of a hundred other reasons not to go camping and just stay home.

Camping is, for me, what happens after you set out the blocks and crank everything down and I'm just trying to get there sooner...
Seems like a noble enough excuse.

[gbaglo]

I have to admit here and now, that I am beginning to think camping is just a big pain in the butt and not worth the experience.
Kneeling in the gravel to crank down the stabilizers is the least of it ( never mind the lego blocks ).
I think it's only going to get worse. The pressure on decent campsites, the reservation system, cost of gas, maintenance - it all makes my back yard look that much more attractive.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by jxoco

And I have been looking for a place that sells that food grade white plastic like the kind they make cutting boards out of, but about an inch thick.
...
Anyways I want to screw the plastic onto the bottom of the foot plate so that I don't have to crank so much and the stabilizers will be a bit more stable.

As an alternative, you might consider solid rubber. Cutting suitable chunks our of a mats for a horse trailer is one option, but that's usually only 1/2" thick, and of course the mat is much bigger than you need. Industrial suppliers have rubber up to 1" thick, but expensively.

[Fox hunt]

My stabilizers have feet but they are not thick just stable. I have one of those crank down swing out things for the tongue less cranking-I think Leon added them to my trailer both are great.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I have to admit here and now, that I am beginning to think camping is just a big pain in the butt and not worth the experience.
Kneeling in the gravel to crank down the stabilizers is the least of it ( never mind the lego blocks ).
I think it's only going to get worse. The pressure on decent campsites, the reservation system, cost of gas, maintenance - it all makes my back yard look that much more attractive.

Hi: gbaglo... But how do you get "Toad" in there? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Jim Bennett]

I believe that Escape is using longer stabilizers than when I bought my 19. With the high lift axle, the stabilizers ended up fairly straight up and down when deployed on lever ground. What I did was to cut four 3 /12" pieces off a 4x4 cedar post, and four 5 /12" pieces off a cedar 2x6, and put one of each under each stabalizer, wthich was plenty good for almost all situations, and often did not need all of them. The odd site with hordes of slope saw a could Lynx blocks used. The cedar blocks were light, and stowed nicely in one of our storage containers.

[BillM]

Originally Posted by jxoco

And I have been looking for a place that sells that food grade white plastic like the kind they make cutting boards out of, but about an inch thick.
The place I used to go to for plastic has disappeared.
Anyways I want to screw the plastic onto the bottom of the foot plate so that I don't have to crank so much and the stabilizers will be a bit more stable.
Then on to the crank down on the tongue, there are swing out things for that as well. Same thing, don't have to crank so much and carry around soggy pieces of wood.
So I feel for you.

I was wondering about a composite deck material like Trex. It can be ripped and routed so I would imagine it could also be cut into disks to attach to the sand pads. I had a jig to cut circular disks on my (sold) table saw but there are other ways to do it. To reduce weight a hole saw could probably be used to remove material without affecting performance.