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Old 03-04-2017, 10:03 PM   #61
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OK, now that we've covered the antenna part a couple of thoughts on security.

I put some faith in my alarm system for folks breaking into my trailer and I live in a good area where many neighbors know me and my trailer and it's in an anything but secluded location so I'm not too worried about it being stolen when we're away without it.

If I was, I'd slide under it with my brake adjusting tool and flick the setting up hard. Trying to pull a trailer with 4 locked brakes would slow down even the most determined thief and it's no big deal to back them off later. Even if the thief tried some problem solving they'd probably think it was the fault of the break away switch.

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Old 03-04-2017, 10:55 PM   #62
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LOL, thats a good one Alf.
freespirit, no I did not get "Clamped" I wrap a chain around my axle and tire is all.

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-10KS-Sec.../dp/B005UMCBL4

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardw.../dp/B001V5IYT2
that chain seems like a good idea...versus some of the other schemes when on the road versus in storage.. should slow down the casual thief. This campers full size spare is locked under the truck in a similar manner and might get a lock keyed the same if possible for the chain thru the rim idea.
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:16 AM   #63
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A big thing with the chain or any wheel retarder is it's visibility. And like my lock-guy told me, any lock can be picked or cut so you don't want to make that process simple or easy.

I don't know anything about that brake adjusting flick-setting, Ron. It sounds like an excellent move--giving me lots of blue lights. My bones and torso muscles are still hurting from wiggling an aircraft carrier-sized body I got under the trailer yesterday to lock on my chain, so before I drag it under there again, how about a more specific how-to, maybe a picture, on this step. Huh?
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Old 03-05-2017, 09:31 AM   #64
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Myron, It is usually done while the vehicle is on a lift or jacked up, so it might take some "wiggling" under the camper until you figure it out, then a little reaching should do. That and having work around the outside steps mount, sew lines, mud flaps, etc., etc. Now that I think of it, it's kind of a pain...
https://www.howacarworks.com/brakes/...ing-the-brakes
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Old 03-05-2017, 12:53 PM   #65
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Myron, It is usually done while the vehicle is on a lift or jacked up, so it might take some "wiggling" under the camper until you figure it out, then a little reaching should do. That and having work around the outside steps mount, sew lines, mud flaps, etc., etc. Now that I think of it, it's kind of a pain...
https://www.howacarworks.com/brakes/...ing-the-brakes
In Myron's case I agree. He's a large guy. I, by comparison, can slide under the trailer, even under the stairs, without too much difficulty. But more importantly, I've been adjusting brakes since before I could drive. But I think that it's a skill that any trailer owner would find handy and once you've tried it a few times, very easy to do.

A blade screwdriver works fine. This is my ancient brake adjusting tool. The small clock is for size comparison. Lee Valley just replaced it. Apparently it didn't like the rough Baja roads.

If I did lock up my brakes I'd also add a visual deterrent. I like the thought of the thief, after cutting the chain etc. and figuring out he was now home free, having the door slam shut in his face with the locked up wheels.

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Old 03-05-2017, 01:03 PM   #66
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Hi: Ron in BC... Could an owner just pull out the Breakaway pin and keep it in his pocket? My trailer wouldn't move when I pinched the wire in the slider hitch roller and pulled the pin out!!!
Our King Jack antenna worked flawlessly while away... that is until the "Fly boys" at Pensacola Naval Air Stn. got in the signals. Pixelated to pieces. Alf
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Old 03-05-2017, 01:10 PM   #67
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That'll kill the battery.

Yah, my old satellite system would do the same for weather. When a storm and heavy rain was coming in from the SE, but not yet at my house, the tv picture would pixelate and I'd know heavy rain was coming.

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Old 03-05-2017, 02:12 PM   #68
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... Could an owner just pull out the Breakaway pin and keep it in his pocket?
Strong second to what Ron said. If you pull out your trailer's breakaway pin, your on-board battery will be constantly applying the electric breaks until the battery dies. Kind of like holding the horn button down on a parked car without the engine running until the horn runs the battery down to dead. Well, kind of like that, but much quieter.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:20 PM   #69
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This looks scary to me. War Eagle, Ron.........At the moment I'm not ready to get under there and be adjusting brake drum screws. Need time to digest this.

Wait a minute. Pulling out the breakaway pin kills the battery? I'm looking at it and don't see how that pin comes out.

What if you do it (but how??) and so that jams on the brakes?... and if so why not then simply disconnect the battery? Or, do the brakes need the battery, in order to jam the wheels to a stop (?).

This is a learning curve for me.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:24 PM   #70
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Wait a minute. Pulling out the breakaway pin kills the battery? What if you do it and then disconnect the battery?
Then the brakes will release.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:28 PM   #71
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Then the brakes will release.
Hi: Jim Bennett... Sounds like a "Catch 22". Would the solar panel be able to negate the battery drain or should I just buy a chain and lock? Alf
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:46 PM   #72
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Hi: Jim Bennett... Sounds like a "Catch 22". Would the solar panel be able to negate the battery drain or should I just buy a chain and lock? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Sorry Alf, but you are going to have to do the math.

If the supplied amperage from the panel(s) is enough to keep the solenoids activated, then you are good to go.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:55 PM   #73
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Pulling out the breakaway pin kills the battery? I'm looking at it and don't see how that pin comes out.
It just pulls out... with significant force. If the trailer breaks away (the hitch fails), the steel cable attached to the breakaway switch pulls out the pin, so just look at how janking the cable forward (from the trailer) would pull the pin and you'll see how you would have to pull it. But don't pull it unless you are ready to put it back in to avoid discharging the battery.

Once the pin is out, the brakes are connected to the battery at full power, which takes about 3 amps per brake (so 6 or 12 amps for a single or tandem axle trailer). That kills a single Escape battery in a few hours.

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Or, do the brakes need the battery, in order to jam the wheels to a stop (?).
Yes. The way trailer brakes work, they don't apply any braking force unless current is flowing through the electromagnet (coil) in the brake assembly (and the wheel is turning or trying to turn). It's not like a parking brake that stays on without power or motion.

There are parking brakes for trailers that work just like traditional cable-operated parking brakes in cars, but almost nobody buys them in North America.
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Old 03-05-2017, 03:00 PM   #74
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Would the solar panel be able to negate the battery drain or should I just buy a chain and lock?
At 12 amps continuously for a tandem-axle trailer, 24 hours a day, that would take a very substantial solar system - panels rated for 800 watts might do it in good summer conditions, but typically much more would be required. I suggest a lock and chain.
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Old 03-05-2017, 03:02 PM   #75
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This looks scary to me. War Eagle, Ron.........At the moment I'm not ready to get under there and be adjusting brake drum screws. Need time to digest this.
Good idea not to try it when you don't feel prepared. But it's handy to be able to adjust your brakes. If I was doing mine as a security measure I'd just do it with the wheels on the ground and probably, when I return, just back them off without raising the wheel. But I've a pretty good feel for how much I usually back them off from the tightened position.

But next time you have a wheel raised, by jacking or driving the other one up on a block, try spinning the wheel. Listen and feel if there's contact with a brake shoe. Try a couple of flicks on the adjuster. You won't harm anything and it's nice to be able to have your brakes set-up so that the shoe makes contact sooner than later. If you haven't managed to try it by Q'site next year, after we've chased those elusive TV signals I'll give you a demo.

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Old 03-05-2017, 03:04 PM   #76
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At 12 amps continuously for a tandem-axle trailer, 24 hours a day, that would take a very substantial solar system - panels rated for 800 watts might do it in good summer conditions, but typically much more would be required. I suggest a lock and chain.
Also, even if you could there's the matter of should you? I'd wonder about the heat build-up of a continuously on solenoid.

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Old 03-05-2017, 03:15 PM   #77
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Why not make it easier on yourshelf , get the California's wheel Immobilizer for about 195 that Rossue suggested . Or cheaper a grip wheel lock , about 90 with a set of chrome wheel locks , 20 so they can't remove your wheel . Could concrete a chain in the ground to wrap your rear axle . On the front of hitch "the Vault " about 180 .Also called Mega Hitch , about 215.. Pat
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Old 03-05-2017, 03:16 PM   #78
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Doggone, man, you guys are good!
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Old 03-05-2017, 04:08 PM   #79
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With the tow vehicle hitched, the umbilical cord disconnected, it is good to pull the breakaway pin, and try pulling the trailer. The brakes should be locked. If not most likely their is a problem with the circuit. This is super easy to do, I do it a few times a year.
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Old 03-05-2017, 04:11 PM   #80
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I thought it was not a good idea to pull the breakaway switch with the electrics to the tow vehicle connected, that it could damage the brake controller.
You could still have it hitched and try to pull as long as you don't have the 7-pin hooked up.
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