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Old 04-17-2019, 05:43 PM   #81
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Thanks Bill!
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:43 AM   #82
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Hello Kent,

The steel bracket shown in the pictures of your Lagun table leg install appears to be a single piece brace designed for this or similar use. Are you able to tell me where you sourced this brace? Sorry I am replying to such an old Escape Forum thread ... I am just now adding a Lagun table leg to my Escape 21 and I'm trying to decide what bracing approach I will use. So far, your installation looks like what I'd like to try to replicate. Thanks for any pointers! Best regards, Fletch Dobbs, "PNFSJCA", San Jose, CA
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Old 06-06-2019, 06:10 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PnFSJCA View Post
Hello Kent,

The steel bracket shown in the pictures of your Lagun table leg install appears to be a single piece brace designed for this or similar use. Are you able to tell me where you sourced this brace? Sorry I am replying to such an old Escape Forum thread ... I am just now adding a Lagun table leg to my Escape 21 and I'm trying to decide what bracing approach I will use. So far, your installation looks like what I'd like to try to replicate. Thanks for any pointers! Best regards, Fletch Dobbs, "PNFSJCA", San Jose, CA

Fletch, see the PM I sent in response to yours, but the bracket was custom made for the job.
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Old 06-06-2019, 07:12 PM   #84
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Hello Kent,

Got it. Thank you!

Best,
Fletch
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Old 06-14-2019, 12:51 PM   #85
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I had a couple of questions today I will address here:

I attached the angle iron directly to the cabinet framing thru holes in the steel I predrilled. The screws go in horizontally. This has no affect at all on how the seat lid closes. I moved several wire clips - mostly they were reattached to the cabinet framing. I used 1/4in threaded inserts and 1/4in bolts to attach the brackets to the floor. You could use screws if you are careful but plywood is not very strong for screw pullout. I used 3/4in length bolts, the inserts are 1/2” length, and I set them in so the tops were just below the vinyl. I used these: https://www.ezlok.com/ezknife-insert-400-4
Based on my experience there can be as many failures from using inserts as there are using lag screws. The most common reason is this believe that one can really ratchet down on these inserts. I haven't installed my Lagun table mount yet but when I do here are some slight alterations to your approach I will make.
1. Use stainless inserts instead of brass. The stainless inserts are more robust.
2. Jump up to 5/16" or maybe even 3/8" inserts. Make the length 5/8".
3. Apply a 5 minute epoxy (I like J-B Weld) to the threads of the inserts then screw in.
The epoxy will insure that they will *never* come loose or pop out.
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Old 06-14-2019, 12:59 PM   #86
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I reinforced the back dinette bench wall to add a bracket to strengthen the single post I use for our very heavy wood table top, pretty much the same way people have done to add the Lagun mounting bracket. Knowing that the floor was fairly thin plywood (ETI told me 5/8") I added a piece of 3/4" plywood covering a large area of the floor and secured it with quite a few 1-1/4" screws. That gave me a much more solid floor to attach the bottom of my L brackets.
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Old 06-14-2019, 01:17 PM   #87
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I'm installing the Lagun today and have been following the discussion for some time. FYI, the inserts are available at Home Depot if one wants to do that method. I agree with not using the brass, and I like the JB Weld add to the threads.
I'm probably going to do what you did David, with the floor ply and use the 1 1/4" to secure. I'll decide last minute today when I get to it.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:29 PM   #88
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The extra thickness of plywood added to the floor doesn't really take any significant amount of space up, with a whole bunch of screws fastening it to the floor it is really solid, and then you have a very sturdy base on which to fasten the bracket.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:50 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by davidmurphy02 View Post
The extra thickness of plywood added to the floor doesn't really take any significant amount of space up, with a whole bunch of screws fastening it to the floor it is really solid, and then you have a very sturdy base on which to fasten the bracket.
I will consider using a hardwood and epoxy it to the plywood. with say, 4 screws on each corner and one in the center - to serve as clamps until the epoxy sets up. Yep. I think that might be the way to go.
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:11 PM   #90
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🤔. Hmmmmm, this is what I did and it’s been working fine for 2 years now, think I used 4 1/4 x 5/8 inch wood screws to hold it to the existing floor. Even held my 80 lb dog when he decided he needed a better view out the window😎
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:13 PM   #91
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🤔. Hmmmmm, this is what I did and it’s been working fine for 2 years now, think I used 4 1/4 x 5/8 inch wood screws to hold it to the existing floor. Even held my 80 lb dog when he decided he needed a better view out the window😎
I think when I finally have my eyeballs in the project I'll see what makes the most sense. I tend to over engineer things.
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:51 PM   #92
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�� ya think ��
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Old 06-14-2019, 09:22 PM   #93
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Mines underway. Cut and fit all the backing board and floor piece. Brackets look good and 3/4 angle for the top rail. Tomorrow should just be assembly, if nothing weird encountered. One note; on the 19 you can't mount the bracket dead center due to the power center and have to cheat it about 1 1/2" to the passenger side. It shouldn't be a huge deal with all the angles and heights this table system can achieve.
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Old 06-15-2019, 01:04 AM   #94
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Just chiming regarding thickness of the floor ply. My trailer has 1/2” not 5/8”. It was the same ply used on the top of the dinette seat base for reference.
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:59 AM   #95
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�� ya think ��
An example of over engineering. I need to stop!
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Old 06-15-2019, 09:06 AM   #96
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Don't stop, looks really nice.��
Now if you plan on mounting it in the trailer......
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:17 PM   #97
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Don't stop, looks really nice.��
Now if you plan on mounting it in the trailer......
Woods of the same nature. Yes. CPA Harley has already placed an order for one. Allegedly.
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:41 PM   #98
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Talking

Waiting to see yours first.....
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:01 AM   #99
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I installed mine, last month. However, I have the side tables, which are better for me to eat off of. So I leave the table top at home. Although I repaired it, the table broke* before we left home. My favorite setup is with a twin size bed, and a memory foam clone.

* Lagun mounting screws under the table top pulled loose from the plywood; under a great amount of weight leveraged stress. Maybe over 130 pounds. Dunno. I put in #14 screws, and caulked with “Liquid Nails” construction adhesive.

The u-dinette wall mount was solid and unaffected.
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Old 06-26-2019, 07:59 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by davidmurphy02 View Post
I reinforced the back dinette bench wall to add a bracket to strengthen the single post I use for our very heavy wood table top, pretty much the same way people have done to add the Lagun mounting bracket. Knowing that the floor was fairly thin plywood (ETI told me 5/8") I added a piece of 3/4" plywood covering a large area of the floor and secured it with quite a few 1-1/4" screws. That gave me a much more solid floor to attach the bottom of my L brackets.
Belated response: As far as I can gather you are the first person who has recognized that reinforcing the floor is important. This is my plan as well. I'll use 3/4" maple plywood. I have some drops from other jobs in a scrap wood bin. I will cut out a section of the linoleum using the piece of plywood as a template. Then I'll screw and epoxy the 3/4 plywood to the sub floor. I'm thinking that the brackets will have a better chance of never coming loose if they are attached to this thicker material. I'm sure there will be some people who will argue that this is 'over engineering' the job. But that is how I roll.
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