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Old 01-29-2019, 07:44 PM   #41
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I better check to make sure mine is 2018 or newer than........
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Old 01-29-2019, 07:48 PM   #42
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I better check to make sure mine is 2018 or newer than........
It won't really matter - if you are getting solar, it will still fail.

How did you get Rease to install a 7000k/7500k on your trailer? He removed them from the options list.
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Old 01-29-2019, 07:50 PM   #43
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It won't really matter - if you are getting solar, it will still fail.

How did you get Rease to install a 7000k/7500k on your trailer? He removed them from the options list.
I had to sign a release........and some chocolate for Tammy et al.....
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Old 01-29-2019, 07:50 PM   #44
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So I need to throttle back my solar to 14.5 also............
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Old 01-29-2019, 08:07 PM   #45
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So I need to throttle back my solar to 14.5 also............
I would highly recommend installing a regulator.
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Old 01-30-2019, 05:54 AM   #46
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I plan to follow your lead once I get home......thanks again for the photo's.
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:44 AM   #47
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why didn't I think about hot glue? That would have been a lot easier than trying to get the velcro up in the corner.

I see you put it in the corner opposite the control board - was the wires long enough?

I put mine in the corner with the thermister.
My setup only had one set of wires with spade connectors between the trailer and fan wiring.
I had to extend the wires but it it wasn't a problem. I just used longer wires that I put spades on and glued them around the edges of the frame.
Easy install.
Think I'm going to start researching where to put one of these on the Atwood.
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Old 01-30-2019, 08:03 AM   #48
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Also as Tom mentioned earlier, it's better to not a single point of failure. (especially if it costs that much)

I just finished the fan install and I'm wondering if the little red power LED is going to shine thru the white plastic when it's dark.?
When you mentioned the little red LED, it got me noticing it - now I have to open the fan back up and put a piece of electrical tape over it. The more I looked at it - the more I noticed it probably being too bright for night sleeping.

Good catch!
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:25 AM   #49
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I like to keep things simple, would this little gismo keep my fan safe? 4 wires, 2 in and 2
out, no red led, no adjusting output, just plug and play.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RRM2ZFAA48ETKC
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:43 AM   #50
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I like to keep things simple, would this little gismo keep my fan safe? 4 wires, 2 in and 2
out, no red led, no adjusting output, just plug and play.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RRM2ZFAA48ETKC
  1. Too big to fit in housing - 7.87 x 3.15 x 1.97 in
  2. Limited to 5 amps - Maxxfan pulls 9 amps on startup
  3. 15-40v input - input voltage range too high
  4. Buck only converter - needs to be a boost buck converter to prevent dropout

Sorry, that is definitely not going to work.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:43 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I like to keep things simple, would this little gismo keep my fan safe? 4 wires, 2 in and 2
out, no red led, no adjusting output, just plug and play.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RRM2ZFAA48ETKC

That one is made for 24V nominal input, with 15V minimum. You need one designed for 12V in and out. Also, I’m not sure how many amps the Maxxfan is rated for, but 5A might not be enough. Or it might.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:43 AM   #52
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That one is made for 24V nominal input, with 15V minimum. You need one designed for 12V in and out. Also, I’m not sure how many amps the Maxxfan is rated for, but 5A might not be enough. Or it might.


Edit: Tom wins the quick draw.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:46 AM   #53
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Thanks guys.......I'll stick to what works then, it is on my amazon list.
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:31 PM   #54
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Just looking at the specs it says 24 to 15 volts is input range.
You might ask if it will work at lower voltages.

Edit: Richard loses the quick draw!
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:56 PM   #55
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Just installed the LTC3780 in our Maxxfan. I wired it slightly differently than Tom though, as I also regulated the rest of the circuit, which included a couple of ceiling lights and the powered awning. I won’t post any pics because I didn’t take any. Nor am I proud of the actual wiring job as I think it’s pretty fugly. But functional. Thanks to those of you leading the way on this. Next: furnace and water heater.
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:29 AM   #56
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Just installed the LTC3780 in our Maxxfan. I wired it slightly differently than Tom though, as I also regulated the rest of the circuit, which included a couple of ceiling lights and the powered awning. I won’t post any pics because I didn’t take any. Nor am I proud of the actual wiring job as I think it’s pretty fugly. But functional. Thanks to those of you leading the way on this. Next: furnace and water heater.
Just a thought. The powered awning is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit per Dometic.

Congratulations! and it doesn't matter what it looks like if it works.
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:41 AM   #57
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Just a thought. The powered awning is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit per Dometic.

Yes, I know [emoji17] Unfortunately that is above my pay grade for now. I figure if it was working ok before, then it can only be better now that it’s regulated, even if not wired ideally, i.e. on its own circuit.
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:00 AM   #58
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The circuit board on my furnace is bad . I am thinking as long as I have to pull the furnace to replace the circuit board , I will add a voltage regulator at the same time
No sense in replacing the circuit board just to have it burn up again .
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:09 AM   #59
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The circuit board on my furnace is bad . I am thinking as long as I have to pull the furnace to replace the circuit board , I will add a voltage regulator at the same time
No sense in replacing the circuit board just to have it burn up again .
Steve, what trailer do you have? Your info still says TBD.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:59 PM   #60
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Has anyone measured the current drawn by the regulator when there is no load?

Also, wouldn't it be easier to add one of these regulators to each DC circuit near the fuses rather than adding them to each appliance? This wouldn't work for the refrigerator since it draws too much current for this regulator (12a max continuous) unless the power for the 12v heater and control boards can be easily separated.
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