Modifications to Eggscape

[Eggscape]

The short story...Pictured below are some other hinge options that you might find easier.

The details...Before I designed my own hinges I was just about to install some store bought “loose pin hinges”. Loose pin hinges are just that...hinges that you can general remove the pin with very little effort. I made some more convenient new pins with easy grab loops out of coat hanger. Before painting the hinges white, I made the screw holes bigger so my larger flat head stainless steal screws would fit flush.

I did a mock up using these loose pin hinges which you can see in the photos below. The hinges would use two existing rivet holes and only require two new holes to be drilled.

You are probably wondering why I bailed on the loose pin hinges and made my own. To sum it up...indecision. Using flat hinges has its limitations. If you attach the hinge on the back side, the shelf can be horizontal or tipped up to access the hatch...but it will not fold down. If you attach the hinges on the underside, then the shelf can be horizontal or fold down...but it will not fold up to assess the hatch. Personally, I was leaning towards attaching them on the underside so I could fold the table down when not in use. It would be easy to pull the pins and remove the shelf if you wanted access to the hatch. This way you would not have to deal with two things over your head.

There are other hinges on the market that you can use on the hatch frame but you may have to order them. Some names to search are “lift off hinge” or “detachable hinge” or “flag hinge”. They would allow the shelf to slide on and off real easy...maybe a little too easy if the shelf was bumped. They are available in stainless steal, many sizes and of course you can use more than two for added strength.

Some of you may not have a problem mounting a nice set of these on the Fiberglass and avoid the hatch completely. If this is the case I would line it up with the center of one wheel and use the bottom half of an aluminium adjustable crutch for a leg. The leg would be on a diagonal from the outer edge of the shelf down to and sit in the wheel rim. Having the crutch sit in the rim will keep it off the ground and less likely to be tangled in a dog leash or slip around. I say a crutch for a leg as the upper end splits in two and provides wider support for the table edge than an adjustable cane would. Both aluminium crutches and canes are available at a second hand stores for under $10.

I have attached a picture of some stainless steal brackets that might be suitable to copy my hinge design that allows fold up and fold down motion.

Good luck with your table project.

[Eggscape]

The short story...To enable my tailgate on the truck to open while hooked up to the trailer, I moved the jack, tanks and batteries back last spring. I also installed the spare tire within/under the tongue.

The details...I made a truck bed drawer that allows my generator to slide out onto the tailgate when it is down. To get the tailgate down when I am hooked to the trailer required the jack to be relocated further back. This required both the propane tanks as well as the battery to be moved back. This was also a good time to add another battery and mount the spare tire within/under the tongue.

I modified a power jack that I got on sale from Princess Auto by welding a bracket to the leg. This bracket fits under the tongue and takes all the weight instead of the usual 3 bolts. It is held in place on the inside of the tongue with a plate and 2 U bolts, one of which also goes through the new foot. Two spots of weld on the original top mount ensure no movement and would be easily ground off if the jack fails in the future. Of course the original jack can still be reinstall and used in the original position at any time.

To move the propane tanks back the base had to be unsrewed from the tongue. I found metal filings rusting between the tongue and the base which others have found as well. I welded in the holes from the screws and then welded the base to the tongue after paint was applied.

I upgraded by adding a second 12 volt battery and new battery boxes. I was able to use one of the original cross bars for the holder but the rear bar required a new longer bar. Again I welded in the screw holes for the mount then welded the mount to the tongue. I wanted two matching plastic battery boxes and found Walmart to be the best source.

I am sure some of you will wonder why two 12 volt batteries. For us, they also serve dual duty as power for our electric trolling motors when we are at the cabin. Each battery has its own 60 amp breaker and heavy duty jack for quick removal.

With a new cross bar welded between the batteries and a ‘welded in’ bolt hanging down, I was able to suspend the spare tire between the tongue rails. A round washer and large homemade wing nut (yellow) holds the tire up into position. A safety chain goes around the mount and locks to the wing nut keeping it from turning. Now the spare tire is a little safer being locked, as well as out of sight. I also like that there is no more off-centre tire on the back of Eggscape, vulnerable to be driven into.

The jack mod might be a little extreme for some of you but if you are touching up the tongue with paint, I would go the extra and check under the propane mount. If you like the location for the spare tire, I am sure you can come up with some way to suspend a threaded rod with a few nuts on either side of a plate or bar without having to weld it in place.

[Eggscape]

The short story...We liked the his and her fans in our last trailer, so I made an upgraded version just for our Escape 19.

The details...The first picture shows the twin fans that I had made for our window in our old stick trailer. I hung it on the inside of the window above our pillows when we stopped and took it down when we moved on. It was a bit of an experiment that now has to turned into a creature comfort we will not do without.

Like most everything I post, I wanted to design the fans so it is as easy as possible for others to make and enjoy. You could screw a fan in each corner like in post # 217 but I wanted a little more privacy between the fans when the blind was not all the way down. The first thing that I considered was how to make the backer board easier for people to obtain and make. Not everyone would be able to get a small piece of pegboard or have the tools to cut it to size including the holes. With a little measuring, I determined that 6 fans would fit perfectly inside the window frame and still provide a little privacy. This negates the need for the backer board altogether and makes construction a snap or should I say a zip. The whole unit can be zip tied together then attached inside the frame with 4 - 5/16 screws. Having the fans installed out of sight inside the frame permanently is a bonus as well as the screen protects from hair or fingers getting into the blades.

As they are computer fans, they come with a connector on the end of the wire that can be daisy chained together. (Photo # 2) Just add power to the red wire and ground to the black and your off and blowing. It could be all concealed in a hose of some kind.

However, I wired mine a little different, using a switch for each fan and two master switches enabling the right and left banks of 3 to be turned off in mass. A switch for each fan allows just the right amount of air movement for each of us and the ability to avoid a fan should it become noisy before it’s 30,000 hour life is up. The two master switches allows my wife or I to turn off in mass our side of the unit in the middle of the night without having to search out each individual switch. The switches are spaced from each other so the screen does not influence the operation of the switch next to it. I installed these switches in a piece of ridged plastic angle material but aluminium could be used as well. What this brown plastic is used for...I have no idea, but I got an 8 foot piece for $1 at Restore.

In previous posts I have provided links for the LEDs, switches and fans.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

The details...The first picture shows the twin fans that I had made for our window in our old stick trailer. I hung it on the inside of the window above our pillows when we stopped and took it down when we moved on. It was a bit of an experiment that now has to turned into a creature comfort we will not do without.

Great work. You’ve got me thinking if I can rig up some fans behind the Maxxair Window/Maxx that I installed on the rear passenger side or along the bottom of the egress window (awning type) on the driver’s side. This would pull air in and blow it across the bed. I’ve camped in very warm weather where the MAXXFAN up front couldn’t be on real high as it was too loud for those in the front, but the back needed some more air.

[Eggscape]

I am not familiar with that brand of window but I did measure the thickness of the fan again and it is just under 1 inch if you want to get it in the frame.

We did use the prototype in our Escape by placing it on the plastic blind cord holders and leaning the board against the strings. This gave it a nice semi adjustable angle down towards us.

I would hesitate to mount anything like this permanently to the fire escape window frame in case it needs to be used. However mounting fans to the removal screen might be another option.

[MyronL]

Very cool idea, connecting a row of quiet computer fans. Now I will have to see if I can do that in my old version 19's screen window.

[Eggscape]

In my post #223 Fun with Fans, I said...

“The whole unit can be zip tied together then attached inside the frame with 4 - 5/16 screws.”
The screw size is incorrect and should state 3/16.

I should also add that I counter sunk the holes in the window frame so the flat head 3/16 screws would fit flush, allowing the screen to be replaced tight against the window frame.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

I am not familiar with that brand of window but I did measure the thickness of the fan again and it is just under 1 inch if you want to get it in the frame.

It’s not a brand of window. We have the original sliders. The MaxxAir Window/Maxx is a louver that allows air in but not rain. They are unfortunately discontinued, but I found two at a small RV shop. Fans mounted behind the louver might be perfect.

Airxcel | Maxxair | Window/Maxx

[Eggscape]

You can make a Hoover Louver!

I notice something on your window but could not make the picture in your post bigger for some reason.

My first thought is to salvage a bit of ribbon cable out of an old VCR or CD player and run it where the window closes to the outside and power the fan(s).

[Eggscape]

The short story...For just a few bucks you can make all the running lights on your trailer flash in an emergency.

The details...It is widely know that if you take a two pin automotive flasher and push it into pins 3 and 4 on your trailer plug that the running lights will flash. It uses the pin that is connected to the trailer battery, routes power via the flasher and energizes the pin for the trailers running lights. However, I wanted to be able to flash the lights with a simple push of a button inside the trailer.

Why do you want your trailer lights to flash, you ask? Here are a few brief scenarios.

It is 3 am at the Escape Rally and you, or your significant other, is having a medical emergency. You phone 911 and say you are one of 140 white fiberglass trailers...come find us in the dark.

Or you are at Quartzite...just tell the emergency responders you are the trailer on the path by the bush, just past the rock.

Or maybe your truck breaks down on the side of the road and they only send one tow truck instead of the two you asked for. It is nice that the trailer has its own stand alone flashing light system.

Of course in a medical emergency to attract attention you can always push the alarm button on your vehicles key fob...if you have one. But that may cause more stress than necessary on the patient, knowing they are waking up the entire campsite in the middle of the night.

The installation is very easy. Mount a switch and flasher. Then run fused power in and out of the switch, then in and out of the flasher. The power line out of the flasher gets connected to any power line that energizes the running lights. See the crude mock-up below.

The running lights are in all four corners of the trailer so one should be easy to find. As Escape uses LED lights, you need to make sure you use an electronic flasher. The flasher has two pins marked B for battery power in and L for the load/lights.

I got my power from an unused fuse terminal in the power distribution panel, which goes through my switch, then my flasher and providing power to the lower front clearance light wire. I used a deluxe switch that is normally flush when off and you have to push it in to activate. Once activated it locks in and flashes blue until you push it again. (If your ordering a push button switch you want a locking one and not a momentary one.) Any old switch will do but I liked this type as it is not easily turned on by mistake and once on you can see that it is on. In the link you can also order a jack with wires for the back of the switch which might make for easier wiring if the flasher is nearby.

I also included a picture of an external option that I did for my brother in law. I made a flasher that plugs into the trailer connector so that he can use it on different trailers in the future. It also has a cigarette plug to provide outside power as well as a 3 way switch to turn on the flashing lights or to keep them always on or off. There is a hole in the lip of the box so it can be locked to the trailer chain when stopped.

These links are active at the time of posting. I have included pictures of the products so you can check you are paying the aprox price in the future.

Flasher. High Quality Electronic LED Turn Signals Flasher Blinker Relay 12V 2 Pin Motorcycle Relay-in Relays from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Deluxe switch and jack. 16mm LED Light Waterproof Metal Push Button Switch Latching Fixation Momentary Auto Car Engine Start PC Power Red Blue 12V 24V -in Switches from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

[cpaharley2008]

You do come up with some interesting ideas, this is one of them.....

[dfandrews]

We did something similar. We have a switch near the bed that turns on the running lights. It's for nighttime security - campground, overnight at truckstop or casino or wallyworld, etc. It's lit so we don't forget to turn it off.

We got power and ground from the nearby 12V receptacle, and then nearby along the edge of the trailer, under the bed, was the green wire for the running light circuit.

[cpaharley2008]

I think I like this idea better than mine, I have been installing an extra 7 pin Hopkins receptacle in the front box and fused the top two terminals. At night, when we stop, I unplug from the tow as my tow plug stays hot and plug into the spare mount, It turns all the exterior clearance/tail lights on. In the am I disconnect and plug back into the tow.

[Eggscape]

Some light is better than no light and I am sure you will agree it is so simple to do.

In my brother in laws orange box I put a 3 position switch. Center is off, left is flashing, right bypasses the flasher and puts the lights on full time.

I can see that being able to have them stay on while you do a walk around your trailer in the dark would be very handy in tight camping. I am sure nobody appreciates their trailer being lit up inside by the neighbours white side lights. Parking and security like you say are valid points as well.

I think I will put another switch just below the one I have now that will run power after the flasher. This will keep them on if required and be a backup should the original switch or flasher fail.

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I think I like this idea better than mine, I have been installing an extra 7 pin Hopkins receptacle in the front box and fused the top two terminals. At night, when we stop, I unplug from the tow as my tow plug stays hot and plug into the spare mount, It turns all the exterior clearance/tail lights on. In the am I disconnect and plug back into the tow.

You are half way there...the person that buys your trailer will just need a center off switch and flasher inside the box. That way they can keep the connector in it’s safety socket when parked.

This also makes sure there is no chance of back feeding power to your tow vehicle if it is still connected...say in a Walmart. Back feeding power into modern or future vehicles may be problematic with all the goofy electronics they have.

On a side note...it would not take much to install a low draw electronic relay, a siren and another switch. If someone pulled the plug out of the safety socket the lights would flash and the siren would sound. In my case it would probably sound off more by me unintentionally than by a thief.

[Eggscape]

I touched on this in a previous post but want to make it perfectly clear here.

I failed to mention that the mod in post # 230 flashing your trailer lights is only to be used when your trailer is electrically disconnect from your tow vehicle.

In years past this would not be a concern but with today’s electronics who knows what goes on in the many mystery boxes located within your vehicle. To apply power from your trailers running lights back into the tow would not be wise.

There is a diode work around so all can be left attached and cheers to you if you know what I am talking about. Personally I will just be unplugging my tow for the night or if an emergency requires such.

[Eggscape]

The short story...I installed a large level on the front of the trailer and a screen door bar/handle.

The details...I actually bought two RV accessories, thanks to seeing and reading about them from other Escape owners. I used both all summer and agree that they are well worth purchasing. At the time, I found Canadian Tire to have a very competitive price on both products.

I will never own a trailer again without some kind of large level mounted on the front. The convenience of backing into a spot and seeing out the back window of the tow when the trailer becomes level is priceless. It is also great if you are cruising a parking lot for a level spot to stay the night or backup onto your leveling ramp/block by yourself.

The Camco level came in a black/silver housing but I wanted white, so I took it apart and painted it with Fusion spray paint for plastic. I am not one to drill holes in our shell so this was a big moment for me. I used another proven level on the belly band to confirm I was installing it correctly. There is an adjustable second very small level to measure front to back correctness that comes in handy when you want to know when to stop the tongue jack.

The Camco screen door bar/handle works well with just the screen door. Our 2018 trailer has the stiff outside door so I would never pull both doors closed with the new screen door bar/handle, as you might stress the plastic lock that holds both doors together. I took advantage of a cross brace to provide more material for the lower screw to be threaded into. It is also great to hang a wet towel on, to dry with the breeze through the screen door.

Camco level part # 25533. Canadian Tire # 040-8826-2
Camco door bar # 42183. Canadian Tire # 040-8250-0

Also included are pictures of how they come packaged.

[Eggscape]

The short story...I installed some heavy duty pocket panels throughout the trailer that come in three different sizes.

The details...last year l came across these great plastic backed burlap pocket panels in three different sizes.

Small 5 pocket 12 w 12 h inches
Medium 8 pocket 13 3/4 w x 20 h inches
Large 13 pocket 17 1/2 w x 26 h inches

They come with a wooden rod through some loops at the top to hang the panel from a cord. I cut off the loops and screwed the panels directly to the walls/doors using some left over tan buttons/screws. Some panels were mounted next to the outside wall so I removed the existing buttons/screws and attached the panels using the existing holes. I made some pen holders along the sides with the left over top loops that were cut off. These panels are really built well and will last for years so I had no problem justifying the new screw holes in the walls.

All the lower kitchen cabinet doors received a small 5 pocket panel on the inside and fit by folding over the top. In the bedroom, on the passenger side, a medium 8 pocket panel fit perfectly. On the drivers side the large 13 pocket panel cleared the thermostat. In the dinette area another large 13 pocket panel fit on the bathroom wall. All the pocket panels up to this point are not visible if someone steps into the trailer making for a tidy look. However, I wanted one just inside the door for items I use a lot outside. This, being the only one visible by visitors, usually results in the question...where did you purchase that? When I say there are 72 pockets in the trailer, they want to see all of them.

My wife really likes the pockets by her pillow so at night she can stow her phone, flash light, glasses, rings, earrings, books etc. I like the one mounted to the bathroom wall facing the dinette. It has all the things I use at the table like pens, remotes, charging cables, pads of paper, cards, brochures, phone etc..

I was just about to post this a few months ago when the Canadian Postal strike hit and other countries were asked to stop shipping via Canada Post. Items on my favorite mail order site went from free shipping to extreme. (See last picture) Shipping still has not returned to free for Canadians but is reasonable. I can no longer wait for free shipping as the large 13 pocket panel is now only available from one last seller and I am not sure when they will no longer be available. I will attach ordering info in my next post.

[Eggscape]

I did do a search on Amazon.ca and found the exact same pocket products but at a much higher price. Small $9.99, Med $15.46 plus $1 shipping and Large $31.10 plus $5.54 shipping.

Note: If you are doing your own searching, these are made of a plastic backed burlap and are not the cotton/linen type. The latter will not match the other sizes.

The photos on the web page show that the colour of the 8 pocket is a little off the others. I have found this not to be so in real life. They are all made out of the same material.

Of course, all the items for the US customers will be cheaper and the shipping will be free and possibly faster.

Don’t expect these to arrive in 10 days...they may, but it is more likely to be 3 to 4 weeks.

A search of AliExpress at time of posting shows that theses are the best links to the 3 sizes of pocket panels.

Small 5 pocket $3.12 shipping $1.55 High Quality Linen Fabric Hanging Storage Bags With 5 Pockets Wall Type Makeup Organizer Home Sundries Storage Container 30*35CM-in Storage Bags from Home & Garden on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Medium 8 pocket $9.45 shipping free Jute large 8 pocket finishing bags Wall Hanging Storage Bag Hanging Bags Multi Fluid Systems Pouch new design storage bag -in Storage Bags from Home & Garden on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Large 13 pocket $18.36 shipping free Essential Practical Cotton and Linen Storage Bag Fashion Pastoral Style 13 Pocket Wall Hanging Bags Multi layer Organizer-in Storage Bags from Home & Garden on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

[cpaharley2008]

Great use of space, as always, but I have to say this pun, it reminds me of the comment made on the Subaru Ascent towing thread about, "But it has 17 cup holders", these pockets remind of cupholders... nothing derogatory was meant, just my first reaction, his 19 has 50 cup holders....