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Old 02-13-2019, 06:44 PM   #241
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cpaharley2008
Hello Jim.
I copied your idea about a 7 pin connection on the front box.Very handy for parking at night at truck stops or rest areas.Does not take a lot of juice and it is an added safety feature.However will not leave it on at night in campgrounds.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:32 PM   #242
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Glad you found it helpful, I plan on copying some of Eggscape mod's myself.
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:36 PM   #243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Great use of space, as always, but I have to say this pun, it reminds me of the comment made on the Subaru Ascent towing thread about, "But it has 17 cup holders", these pockets remind of cupholders... nothing derogatory was meant, just my first reaction, his 19 has 50 cup holders....
Now that you mention it...I remember that as well.
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:36 PM   #244
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Extra USB Ports for Eggscape

The short story...I installed some extra USB ports that put out 2 amps each.

The details...Both my wife and I run the big screen iPad Pros when we are camping. We layout our trip in screen shots, do emails and use it to watch downloaded Netflix shows instead of TV. This of course requires the ability to charge them while on the road. Our last trailer had no such USB plug from the factory so after some research I came up with this multi port unit. Having tested it thoroughly, I ordered another couple of units for our Escape before we took delivery.

Before testing the factory USB dual plug that Escape installs, I was leary that it would not be able to provide the 2 amps out of each port simultaneously that could charge both of our iPads. Well, good news for everyone as it will charge two iPads at 1.96 amps and 4.85 volts.

We also have our 2 phones to charge so I decided to install the extra unit I purchased on the driver side of our 19. I also installed a switch on the side of it that turns off the unit and LED indicator. This unit has 3 ports, two of which are rated for 2 amps and the third at 1 amp. Real world test shows it will provide 2.1 amps at 5 volts for the two high amp ports.

The new version of this unit which I have not tested now has 4 ports and at under $10 is a great value.

Power can be wired permanently into the blue connectors or you can use the barrel connector with a standard cigarette plug on the other end. The picture is of our second unit which we use in the truck to charge everything while we are driving. Why wait until we are back at camp and delete your battery. I like to use a bit of hot glue to re-enforce the jacks...just don’t put any down the sides of the USB jacks or it could leak into the main part of the jack.

The key to all this testing is the ability to take accurate voltage and current measurements. How does one go about sticking some meter probes into the mix without taking some wires apart? I will let you know in my next post.

USB power supply. 4 USB Output DC DC 9V/12V/24V/35V to 5V 5A Step Down Power Module Converter Electric Modules Board phone fast charging-in Switching Power Supply from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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7A933CF3-07EA-4091-8419-47AD89A7DA00.jpeg  
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:47 AM   #245
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Looks like a quality product, where exactly did you install?
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:50 AM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
Before testing the factory USB dual plug that Escape installs, I was leary that it would not be able to provide the 2 amps out of each port simultaneously that could charge both of our iPads. Well, good news for everyone as it will charge two iPads at 1.96 amps and 4.85 volts.
Ed: Thank you for providing this information as I recently installed three of the stock Magnadyne units that Escape uses to replace the standard cigarette lighter style. The specs say that it should be able to provide 2.4A on the USB's simultaneously.
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:06 AM   #247
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Quote:
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Looks like a quality product, where exactly did you install?
I found it.
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Old 02-19-2019, 11:18 AM   #248
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New USB location

Dave you are correct.

It is located in the magazine/iPad rack. This way we can hook up our iPads in the rack along with the charging cords and everything is out of sight. It is also convenient to have a jack on each side of the table should we need something hooked up to power while using. Of course the power distribution panel near by makes for a quick permanent hook up to one of the empty fused slots.
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Old 02-19-2019, 11:55 AM   #249
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Factory USB Output

Having tested many USB devices with my two USB testers, I was pleased to see the Escape unit did so well.

The test was done with both iPads about 80% depleted and with the factory cords. I took readings starting in the house with the factory charger plugged into the wall, to get a base line of what Apple thinks the charging current should be. Then I plugged in both iPads to the Escape USB outlets and got the readings I posted. (Forgot to take a picture) Then moved onto the new charger for that reading...which was higher and just about matched the Apple wall charger.

The trailer does not have the batteries installed at this time so I am running off of the supply alone. My voltage reading is 13.2 taken at the factory USB jack without anything plugged in. This is the same voltage that both the stock and new chargers have going into them.

Maybe if the solar was putting out a higher voltage, the stock units would reach above 2 amps...but that leads to the many posts on unregulated devices.

I am just writing up my next article on the USB testers and my findings, which I will post tonight.

Just a little teaser...you can have all this fun with a deluxe USB tester for under $3.50.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:01 PM   #250
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USB test meters for Eggscape

So how does one go about sticking meter probes into the USB jack to take measurements. Well you don’t...it just so happens there are some fool proof meters just for this purpose and at a few bucks each, they won’t break the bank.

Both units I have listed plug in line between the USB outlet and your load, be it a phone, fan, iPad, etc. The cheaper one (blue/clear) without the wire sticking out is very durable and the display flicks back and forth between measuring volts and amps. The one drawback is that the display is only on one side. If you plug it into the Escape USB port the display faces down and you have to use your phones camera on selfie to see the reading. The other meter (white) with the stub cable permanently attached, allows you to rotate the whole unit into a position you can read. It displays voltage and current at the same time.

I used my meter to find out how much current the factory iPad charger plugged into the wall put out to the iPad using the original iPad cable. That reading is 2.1 amps. I used the factory cable because I found, to my surprise, that some cables will not pass 2 amps. It doesn’t mater what you pay for a cable... some will and some won’t pass the higher current. I mark my cables to keep track of what current the cable will pass as there is no problem using a cable that only passes 1 amp to charge a cellphone.

I also found that all my little round USB ports that plug into the cigarette jacks will not supply 1 amp out...no matter what they say on them or the packaging. This is not much of a problem if you are just charging 1 cellphone overnight but 2 phones might challenge the device and fail to charge your phones completely. The larger adapter in the picture on the right does put out 1.5 amps, but it states on the side that it does 2.1 amps. The round 2 port unit that states 2.1 amp, puts out less than 1 amp total.

These easy to use meters are great to test all your chargers, cables and makes for a great gift.

Meter without wire. Voltmeter Smart Electronics Digital USB Mobile Power Charging Current Voltage Tester Meter USB Charger Doctor Voltmeter Ammeter-in Voltage Meters from Tools on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Meter with wire. USB Tester 3 7V LCD Micro USB Charger Battery Capacity Voltage Current Tester Meter Detector for Smartphone Mobile Power Bank-in Voltage Meters from Tools on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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6667E6B7-A57B-488A-AD83-3E6DEF2B551D.jpg   D3F65F39-16C3-40A2-A452-27691A53CC02.jpg  
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:44 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
I used the factory cable because I found, to my surprise, that some cables will not pass 2 amps. It doesn’t mater what you pay for a cable... some will and some won’t pass the higher current.
I suspect that any cord which will not pass more than the basic current level has only two wires in it, connected to the VBUS and GND terminals (pins 1 and 4 of the classic Type-A and -B connectors). The other two wires and terminals (D+ and D-) are the data lines, and can be used (in this case) for the charger to indicate to the device how much current is available; without them, the device may limit its demand.

It would be relatively easy to check for four complete and separate connections through a cable, using an ohmmeter.
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Old 02-24-2019, 12:11 PM   #252
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A few borrowed modifications for Eggscape

The short story...I saw the pet tie-off point and the propane lid safety straps on this forum and just had to have the mods.

The details...Before I took delivery of our trailer, I was reading as much as possible about Escape trailers on this forum. When I would come across something I liked I would take a screen shot. Two must-have mods were the pet tie-off point on the door step and the safety straps on the propane lid so it doesn’t take flight. I am not sure who’s original ideas these were, but please feel free to post and take credit for them. It has been a while since these mods were posted so they may be new to some.

I did my own take on the pet tie-off points by making them longer and tilting them out to clear the step a bit more. I painted two eye bolts, then covered the threads with some heat shrink tubing. We don’t have a dog, however it will come in handy when the grand-dog visits or someone at the Escape Rally shows up with a pet, or small child.

As for the propane lid safety straps...two holes...zip zip and you’re done. Just don’t do them up too tight and make sure they are UV protected.
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Old 03-06-2019, 03:56 PM   #253
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Visual Thermostat for Eggscape

The short story...With a little ingenuity we can now swing the thermostat into easy view in our 19.

The details...I understand the need for the thermostat to be in an area where it is least affected by the air conditioning, furnace or an open door, but having to sit on the bed to properly see the display is a little much. Not only is it inconvenient and messes up the bed, but I see it as needless wear on the edge of the mattress.

My final design uses a T hinge mounted to the back of the thermostat which allows it to swing into view. I used a T hinge for a few reasons but mainly because it provides great support to the plastic housing. The end of the hinge hangs out which I formed into a convenient handle so that no stress is applied to the thermostat housing during the swing. The T part of the hinge, when folded back, stays out of the way allowing space behind the unit for the three wires to curl. The hinge is hardly noticeable once painted.

I attached the thermostat to the hinge with some double-sided tape and optional machine screws and nuts. Care must be taken to use short screws so that the nuts will not come in contact with the curcit board. I applied a bit of hot glue on the nuts to ensure no contact and to secure them from moving. The hinge is screwed directly to the wall and through to the 3.5 inch wide corner stud within the wall. I used two little rare earth magnets between the hinge and an adjustable screw that keeps the thermostat perfectly parallel with the wall.

There are three wires going to the thermostat which are negative on the drivers side, control in the middle and positive on the passenger side. The factory wires are not long enough to do the swing and need to be extended. I cut off a 3 contact section of a terminal block and added some very flexible wire long enough so that they curl behind the thermostat. This long curl is important as the action of the swing is spread out along the entire length of the extension wires reducing any spot fatigue. The paneling behind the thermostat has been removed to provide more room for the wires but spacing the hinge further out from the wall could accomplish the same result. I like to put a little solder on the wire ends turning them into pins before inserting them into the two terminal blocks and screwing them secure...but soldering is optional and was not done on the original wiring by Escape. I have made an extra set of extension wires to keep in the tool box.

Of course there were a few first thoughts on the project and I will share them as they may just trigger a better idea in your mind. I started out by thinking I could add a curly cord to the thermostat and remove it like a communications microphone...of course not to speak into, but to pull the unit into view. Even though quality curly cords are meant for mobile movement, I did not like that the cord would be rubbing constantly on the paneling while the trailer was in motion. Next I moved on to the cabinet hinge idea but this meant I had to manhandle the plastic housing during the swing. The hinge also took up a lot of the area at the rear and made the housing fit flat on the wall thus no room for the wires to curl.

Terminal Block. $1.33. 1 pcs 12 Position Wire Connector Plastic Barrier Terminal Block 10A DropShipping Top Sale-in Terminal Blocks from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

50 Magnets. $1.70. 20/50/100/200Pcs 6mm X 1mm Strong Cylinder Rare Earth Magnet 6X1 Neodymium Bulk Sheet N35 Mini Small Round Magnets Disc 6*1mm-in Magnetic Materials from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:30 AM   #254
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Sail Switch Access Hatch for Eggscape (part 1)

The short story...I want to install an access hatch so I can change out, or service, the sail switch and board in the furnace.

The details...This modification is going to be a long post so I will do it in two parts.

There has been some talk about the sail switch inside the furnace is susceptible to dirt and fluff causing it to fail. On my 2018 this requires the complete removal of the furnace including undoing the gas line. I was lucky that it pulled out eventually but not without much ado and a little blood shed. I did not have to unseal the outer exhaust/input as the installer had placed a panel cuting under the unit. It helped a bit to raise it up but was still stuck on the plywood at the back and is not something that I want to repeat every year or in the bush.

Before removal I was able to slide a tape measure down the side and measure the space between the back of the furnace and the white vinyl on the wall. I pushed the end of the tape against the wall, then pulled it forward hooking it on the back of the furnace. I used the front of the furnace as a reference point and found there was a 3/4 inch movement/difference.

I also wanted to know where the furnace had been located once it was removed so I taped a pen to a sick and outlined one side and marked the top. This will allow the correct placement of the hatch from these reference marks.

Once the furnace was removed I was able to measure the thickness of the vinyl with its foam backing and the extra insulation that we purchased. This came to approx 7/8 inch. Add this to the thickness of the fiberglass plus the distance the furnace was away from the wall and it totals 1 3/4 inches. This is plenty to install most hatches.

My favourite hatch that would match the other 3 that I’ve added to the trailer requires 1 inch depth to be installed. It could even be installed if we had not purchased the extra insulation. However, the smallest hatch they make just fits, by 1/4 inch, between the exhaust and the belly band. This is much too close to the exhaust heat than I am willing to risk.

With much searching and consideration, I found a round marine access port. The outside diameter is said to be 8 inches and the inside hole is 6 inches which will be enough space to replace the curcuit board as well. This size would allow the rear of the port to fit right in the upper part of the furnace just in case your furnace is pushed to the wall and you don’t have the extra insulation. I ordered the smooth finish port and not the one with the pebbles. It is heat resistant so should survive being 2 inches above the exhaust/intake.

As the port is still on order, part 2 will continue when it arrives and is installed.

8 inch Marine Port $15.02 Marine Boat RV ABS White Round 4" 5" 6' Access Hatch Cover Screw Out Deck Inspection Plate-in Marine Hardware from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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Old 03-09-2019, 12:56 PM   #255
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I'll bet you could have a pretty good side business doing this mod for others....anyone who's had to pull their furnace would certainly pay dearly for an access hatch like this!
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Old 03-09-2019, 02:14 PM   #256
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bolt size

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
The short story...I saw the pet tie-off point and the propane lid safety straps on this forum and just had to have the mods.

The details...Before I took delivery of our trailer, I was reading as much as possible about Escape trailers on this forum. When I would come across something I liked I would take a screen shot. Two must-have mods were the pet tie-off point on the door step and the safety straps on the propane lid so it doesn’t take flight. I am not sure who’s original ideas these were, but please feel free to post and take credit for them. It has been a while since these mods were posted so they may be new to some.

I did my own take on the pet tie-off points by making them longer and tilting them out to clear the step a bit more. I painted two eye bolts, then covered the threads with some heat shrink tubing. We don’t have a dog, however it will come in handy when the grand-dog visits or someone at the Escape Rally shows up with a pet, or small child.

As for the propane lid safety straps...two holes...zip zip and you’re done. Just don’t do them up too tight and make sure they are UV protected.
For the eye bolts, do you need to use a certain size? And for the propane lid are the 2 holes there or do you need to drill them?
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Old 03-09-2019, 05:43 PM   #257
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You should match the the size that is in there already. The best thing to do is remove one and take it to the hardware store to match the size. I think it is 5/16.

Yes two of the four holes required will have to be drilled.
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Old 03-09-2019, 08:57 PM   #258
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OK, thanks.
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Old 03-09-2019, 10:41 PM   #259
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Your work staggers the mind! Say, you didn't by any chance quit your job at the Canadian Space Agency recently, did ya?

PS: the eye bolt is 3/8ths.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:54 AM   #260
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Your work staggers the mind!
Well it sure has exercised my mind and hopefully given others ideas on how to make their trailer best suit their needs.
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