Modifications to Eggscape

[Eggscape]

The hatch came in 20 days to Canada and is as described by the seller. Smooth finish and feels like good quality.

The mounting ring flang fits perfectly inside the the furnace but this would make the hatch off center from the outside exhaust port. I decided to center the hatch above the exhaust which aligns the sail switch in the center of the opening. It also aligns the 2 screws that holds the circuit board in place so it can also be serviced. I relocated the reset switch from the outside tin to a ready-made auxiliary location in the plastic housing. It took a keen eye to find this ready-made location, as it does to see it in the pictures.

From the inside of the trailer I measured up 2.5 inches from the black air intake and drilled a pilot hole to the outside. Then, on the outside I used a carpenter’s square down from the belly band through the center of the exhaust port. Now I had both a center line and a bottom starting point. I placed the hatch lid above the pilot hole, centered on the line and drew the line to be cut.

With the pilot hole enlarged from the outside in order to accommodate the blade, plus tape on the bottom plate of my jig saw to further protect the trailer, I began to cut along the line. Care was taken not to use a super long blade as you could nick the water supply pipes just inside. I pulled them out of the way with a rope, just to be on the safe side.

I like to use a 3M type automotive double-sided tape to seal the hatch in place. I do an inner ring and an outer ring that is left open at the bottom to drain should water seep in via the screws. Once the tape touches the side of the trailer the hatch is secured. I drilled pilot holes for the stainless steel screws that fill the holes.

I added a screw to a one side of the bottom of the furnace near the rear. To this, and the screw adjacent, I used a nut on each to raise up the screw head. This now forms two feet that will not allow the rear black plastic plate of the furnace to drop over the edge and get hung up.

Placing the furnace back into position was not easy and it must be extremely hard without the hatch. Through the hatch you can see exactly what needs to be moved as the exhaust pipe moves from side to side and needs to be manipulated exactly right to fit within the furnace pipe.

I think this modifcation is going to be well worth the $20.

3M type tape. http://s.aliexpress.com/6BJz6v2a

[Sowen23]

Looks great! Fantastic idea.

[7th Heaven]

Grate Mod!

I can only dream of having easy access to the sail switch in my Original 21' . When I have to replace/clean the sail switch next time I may choose to replace my furnace just to get easier access.

[cpaharley2008]

Nice work, did you install any backer on the inside for the screws to bite?

[rubicon327]

Great work on the access hatch!

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Nice work, did you install any backer on the inside for the screws to bite?

No I didn’t.
The 3M tape is very good at keeping the hatch on the trailer and making the seal. I have used it in other applications successfully for years.
However the fiberglass was thick in this area and provided for a good bite.
Anybody not using an adhesive sealer could use machine screws with a washer and nut on the back as there is easy access to do this.

I forgot to mention that I will be looking for spare screws that hold both the circuit board and sail switch in place. I have a strong feeling that I will be loosing a few in the depths of the compartment.

And thanks everyone for the compliments.

[MyronL]

I find it odd that there is no mention of where or how to access the sail switch on my Atwood Model 8012-11 furnace. The users Information manual mentions it only once, on page 3 of a list of "safety related items." RE: "Do not install air boosters in the duct system. Such devices will cause the furnace to cycle on limit and to have erratic sail switch operation."

My 2013 older style, furnace limits any owner maintenance to cleaning out cobwebs and nests, presumably by blowing them out with a vacuum cleaner.

[cpaharley2008]

Too bad progress made the old style obsolete, yet still preferred for it's simplicity and durability....

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by MyronL

I find it odd that there is no mention of where or how to access the sail switch on my Atwood Model 8012-11 furnace. The users Information manual mentions it only once, on page 3 of a list of "safety related items." RE: "Do not install air boosters in the duct system. Such devices will cause the furnace to cycle on limit and to have erratic sail switch operation.

I could see that an in line air booster could suck the sail switch on thus defeating it’s purpose.

[Eggscape]

The short story...I added a drivers side 12 volt plug behind the fridge access door for $5.

The details...I have installed many 12 volt plugs in our trailer and it requires the usual wiring that some people may be uncomfortable in attempting. However, this project is very simple and easy to do. It provides 12 volt power to the drivers side of the trailer which normally is a skilled job requiring a new hole in the trailer and some of that mysterious wiring. Not wanting to cut more holes in the trailer than necessary, and in an effort to keep things simple, I decided to mount it behind the fridge access door. This way I have reasonable access to 12 volt power on the odd occasion that I need to pump up my tires, etc..

I selected a plug that has a metal bracket and can be taken apart should I decide to rebuild it with heavier wire. It fits perfectly under a metal lip and can be double-sided taped in place or attached with screws. It comes with a 10 amp fuse, in a holder, and can run a light duty compressor.

Power was easy to get from the seldom used high amp fridge supply. I am sure many of you do not use your fridge on 12 volts or could make sure you’re not using it while you pump up a tire. I cut off the supplied connectors from the cig plug and soldered the ends to make them firm for installing into the terminal block. However, you can just cut the connectors in half and this will leave a crimped wire end that is similar to the fridge wire ends you will find on installation. It is a little tricky adding an extra wire in the terminal block but there is room and it can be done. You may have to squeeze the crimped ends closed a bit more with normal pliers. I temporarily removed the center screw that holds the terminal block in place for easier access to insert the two wires.

The photos show what you need to do...red to red...black to black.

$5 Cig plug. Vehicle mounted Power Supply Convenient Installation Double Hole Cigar Lighter Plug Adapter Two in one Car Power Socket-in Cigarette Lighter from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Good luck!

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

The short story...I added a drivers side 12 volt plug behind the fridge access door for $5.



The details...I have installed many 12 volt plugs in our trailer and it requires the usual wiring that some people may be uncomfortable in attempting. However, this project is very simple and easy to do. It provides 12 volt power to the drivers side of the trailer which normally is a skilled job requiring a new hole in the trailer and some of that mysterious wiring. Not wanting to cut more holes in the trailer than necessary, and in an effort to keep things simple, I decided to mount it behind the fridge access door. This way I have reasonable access to 12 volt power on the odd occasion that I need to pump up my tires, etc..



I selected a plug that has a metal bracket and can be taken apart should I decide to rebuild it with heavier wire. It fits perfectly under a metal lip and can be double-sided taped in place or attached with screws. It comes with a 10 amp fuse, in a holder, and can run a light duty compressor.



Power was easy to get from the seldom used high amp fridge supply. I am sure many of you do not use your fridge on 12 volts or could make sure you’re not using it while you pump up a tire. I cut off the supplied connectors from the cig plug and soldered the ends to make them firm for installing into the terminal block. However, you can just cut the connectors in half and this will leave a crimped wire end that is similar to the fridge wire ends you will find on installation. It is a little tricky adding an extra wire in the terminal block but there is room and it can be done. You may have to squeeze the crimped ends closed a bit more with normal pliers. I temporarily removed the center screw that holds the terminal block in place for easier access to insert the two wires.



The photos show what you need to do...red to red...black to black.



$5 Cig plug. Vehicle mounted Power Supply Convenient Installation Double Hole Cigar Lighter Plug Adapter Two in one Car Power Socket-in Cigarette Lighter from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group



Good luck!

Nice. I’d suggest adding something underneath it to raise it up off the bottom of the bathtub flooring that comprises that area. Wet and windy weather or travel can lead to a modicum of standing water there, which is why it’s sealed all around, like a tub or shower enclosure. Maybe a small piece of synthetic deck board, or a section from a plastic cutting board?

[Eggscape]

Also the mounting location will vary due to different model fridges as well as preference.

[Eggscape]

You can also use rubber crutch tips to seal them from the elements.

[Eggscape]

The short story...The first time I opened our power awning this year it did not close back up all the way...you need a 5/32 Allen wrench and something to stand on to do the adjustment.

The details...I will start by saying that everyone should test their awning before a trip or at least at the beginning of the year unless they want to fix it on the road. It was by complete surprise that our awning did not want to close up all the way this year as it worked perfectly when we put it to bed for the winter.

Having seen the video Reace did on adjusting the awning, the first thing I did was to dig out the manual and go to page 9. Strange...page 9 was not how to adjust the awning. It turns out the only thing that our power awning has in common with the adjustment video is that it has the screws ETI put in place to keep the main blocks from moving.

A search of my 9500e manual found the info on page 10. It states there are two adjustment screws on the LH side (it’s on the right hand side) and there is no indication of the type of screws. So I get a little screw driver ready, only to find that is not going to work. From the little I can see of the screws they appear to be an Allen screws. I tried both standard and metric and could just not see...or feel what fit. An email to Dometic was almost useless. Asking for type of screw and size...I got a reply...it is an Allen Screw.

Another day and another try and I found an 5/32 Allen wrench does fit. It just feels a little strange as there is no resistance when turning. If you are camping and you don’t have one of these in your tool box and something to stand on, you’re not making any adjustments.

Now that I know what to do and have the correct tool, it is a very easy adjustment. I have put one wrench in the tool box, a second hangs aside and behind the opener. This is a great visual reminder to check that the awning has actually closed completely.

It is a little unnerving that an awning that was working correctly in the fall grew an inch and would not close completely in the spring. Is this going to happen every year? Is it going to shrink back to where it was last fall and self-destruct upon closing? I know I am going to have my finger perched over the stop button for the next little while when retracting.

[cpaharley2008]

I can see the retraction adjustment issue, but when is there ever an extension issue?

[bdornbush]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Placing the furnace back into position was not easy and it must be extremely hard without the hatch. Through the hatch you can see exactly what needs to be moved as the exhaust pipe moves from side to side and needs to be manipulated exactly right to fit within the furnace pipe.

I think this modification is going to be well worth the $20.

I was excited to see this mod. My excitement was crushed when I removed my furnace from my 2015 Escape 19 to learn that the sail switch in that vintage of trailer was in a different place, under the cover that encloses the exhaust pipe port. That means that I cannot get to the sail switch without removing the furnace. The photo shows the sail switch next to its location under the cover panel which is removed. I -may- look at a larger access door that would also mount the exhaust port. At least I am glad I got 4 years of use before this furnace failure.

[Eggscape]

Well that’s not good...

In that case I would make my own larger cover plate (aprox 8 x 8) out of sheet aluminium. Mount the exhaust in the aluminium cover plate permanently and attach the plate with 4 screws. This way the cover plate can be pulled straight out from the trailer releasing the exhaust tube and giving access to the sail switch...something most hinged hatches will not allow you to do.

You could also make the plate out of fiberglass from a window or hatch cut out that I am sure ETI would bring to the Rally if you are going.

You can always run your ideas by me here or via email.

[bdornbush]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

You can always run your ideas by me here or via email.

I thought of using a different door. You referred to another cover plate which was too thick, but I was thinking that using another rectangular plate or access door and mounting the exhaust on it would be a good approach. Did you suggest aluminum or fiberglass for heat protection? There could be a rectangular plastic plate similar to the round one you used but I suspect it would be hard to find a pre-made aluminum or fiberglass plate or access door.

[Eggscape]

You could use a door of some sorts as long as it does not hinge on a frame...or you remove the hinge. I say no hinge as it needs to pull straight out to remove the attached exhaust pipe.

You just need something thin so the exhaust pipe still seats in the furnace. The thicker the panel/door and you may have to move the furnace closer to the wall. So a thin plate is best.

I suggested aluminium or Fiberglass as it is easier than stainless steal to work with.

However since the air intake is on the outside of the exhaust pipe it does have a cooling effect. I think even a thin cutting board that is dishwasher safe would withstand the heat.

A trip to the local thrift store and you may find a thin aluminium serving tray, pot lid etc.

I will keep thinking...

[Eggscape]

The short story...I recovered our counter tops with some $6 Formica handy panels and metal trim.

The details...I have worked with these $6 - 2 x 4 foot Formica handy panels from our local Rona building supply on many different projects. I think the first time was when I made a proper counter top for our Boler in the early 90s. I also used the same metal edging and was pleased to find it still available at Home Depot. I am posting this in case someone buys a used trailer and just can’t make do with the counter top.

I knew as soon as I saw the standard counter top with plastic edging in the ETI showroom that it was ripe for a redo. Knowing it was something that I could handle we did not even pursue the counter top options. With months to wait for the trailer to be built we had our 4 sheets of Formica picked out and ready to install. Two sheets are required to replace the counter top and back splash. The other two sheets covered a new table and replaced the fridge front. It is important to note that the counter top is 48 1/2 inches wide and requires a handy panel that long...which some are. You could cut the counter down to 48 inches but it might look a little tight on the end. Restore is another source of new reasonable Formica in larger sizes, if you are doing a 21.

The first thing I did when we got the trailer was remove the backsplash buttons. 10 months later and no ill side effects. The reason for this is that the backsplash plywood is firmly attached to the counter top. Do not try and remove the backsplash without removing the counter top. The stove removes easy...undo the water lines and some screw on the underside...and the counter top is free. Once removed, you can see the back splash support strip fiberglassed into the trailer wall.

I sanded the top to ruff up the surface then cleaned it well with acetone. The backslash was covered first then the top. I used the good old smelly contact cement and not the new green stuff. The cutout from the stove is large enough to cover a bigger side flip up table as I did...every inch counts.

Having worked with this counter top edging before, I know it likes a large radius for the bend. The tighter the radius the more the top edge of it goes milky in colour from stress. I used a 4 5/8 diameter lid to draw the larger radius on the corner, then made the cut. I’ve been impressed with the holding ability of the 3m double sided tape I have used to mount my hatches, so I decided to attach the edging with it as well. I did paint the edge of the plywood first as my testing shows it likes to stick to the paint better than the dry wood.

The metal along the top of the backsplash is 5/16 tile trim and matches the counter edge perfectly. This trim is like an upside down J and fits over and down the front of the backsplash. It is held to the back of the backsplash with silicone. I used the same silicone to seal the joints.

The silicone is also used to reset the sink in place when it all went back together.