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Old 01-10-2019, 01:04 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
Nice work, Ed.
One question on the round can type fixtures on the underside of the overhead storage. The existing light fixtures are surface mount and don’t intrude into a very highly used storage bin. These new fixtures appear to require a large hole cut that they then clip into and would potentially cause loss of use of a bit of that upper storage area. Did you adress that somehow inside the cabinet or do they interfere with the space?
With our trailer there is a space between the outer panel you see and the inner floor. This is where ETI runs the wire. The space...maybe 5/8 of an inch, was enough for me to make a custom light can (literally the end of a tin can) and I used a round LED disc. The disc is held to the inside of the can with a thick layer of epoxy. When the LED disc heats up so does the epoxy thus the light can is used as a heat sink. Much better than just running theses replacement LEDs without a heat sink. The clips you see in the purchase photo were not used and the light was screwed to the surface with holes in the outer SS ring. There is a center off double throw switch behind the light that I mounted through the SS rim. I can switch between white and blue light.

So yes I had to cut a round hole in the outside panel but no I did not have to cut a hole through to the inside.
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Old 01-10-2019, 02:41 PM   #172
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raised floor

Nice work Ed. This is a significant job beyond the skill and patience of many owners.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:01 PM   #173
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Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
With our trailer there is a space between the outer panel you see and the inner floor. This is where ETI runs the wire. The space...maybe 5/8 of an inch, was enough for me to make a custom light can (literally the end of a tin can) and I used a round LED disc. The disc is held to the inside of the can with a thick layer of epoxy. When the LED disc heats up so does the epoxy thus the light can is used as a heat sink. Much better than just running theses replacement LEDs without a heat sink. The clips you see in the purchase photo were not used and the light was screwed to the surface with holes in the outer SS ring. There is a center off double throw switch behind the light that I mounted through the SS rim. I can switch between white and blue light.

So yes I had to cut a round hole in the outside panel but no I did not have to cut a hole through to the inside.
Awesome, I figured you had done something, just couldn't see what from the original pics. Good solution.
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Old 01-11-2019, 03:38 AM   #174
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Hi great job on the drawers. Could you tell me what you used for sliders and where you purchased the?
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:47 AM   #175
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Good morning.....found your post very interesting; my wife and I are also Hams....pick up our 21' in June 2019; been thinking how to mount an antenna on our Escape. would be interested in your mast-home built or purchase, details, etc.?? Band 2m ? or HF...73's Gil K4ZVU
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:51 AM   #176
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one more question; how did you run your coaxial into your RV; special port ? or did you utilize one of the standard openings i.e. water, electrical ? 73's gil
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:10 PM   #177
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Bin Sliders

Quote:
Originally Posted by glenduggan@hotmail.com View Post
Hi great job on the drawers. Could you tell me what you used for sliders and where you purchased the?
If you asking what the under bed bins slide on...that could be about anything as the bins are like nylon. I know someone is going to be using wood strips. I used old track lighting rail which is aluminium and sells at our local Restore for about 1 to 2 dollars for various lengths. I can’t buy and cut wood for that price. Your local Restore is located at 20104 Logan Avenue in Langley.
As the bins stack there is an indent all around the bottom. This is what slides on the rails.
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File Type: jpg 2C7437F6-217D-4155-BB77-E3486FD87E0D.jpg (208.9 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 98064117-D6DE-4416-B305-5F960157A24D.jpg (134.7 KB, 26 views)
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:31 PM   #178
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Originally Posted by k4zvu View Post
Good morning.....found your post very interesting; my wife and I are also Hams....pick up our 21' in June 2019; been thinking how to mount an antenna on our Escape. would be interested in your mast-home built or purchase, details, etc.?? Band 2m ? or HF...73's Gil K4ZVU
I picked up a few of the 3 section masts/flag poles from a gentleman that had done a bulk buy from the remains of the 2010 Winter Olympics here in BC. I have since lost his info. There is a web mark on the twist lock which is the correct site but not that great. I have added a steal collar (red) to the end so when the aluminium stub on the bottom of the antenna is inserted, the fiberglass tube does not split.

I use an Arrow dualband J pole http://www.arrowantennas.com/osj/j-pole.html because it is very durable, wide banded and most importantly does not have horizontal radials. To the bottom of the antenna I attached an aluminium stub tube that is filled with a dowel/broom stick so it doesn’t bend.

The 40 ft of of RG 8U coax goes directly from the radio at the front of the trailer to the antenna with no connectors in between. All connectors stay connected with the antenna one properly sealed. When finished the antenna lifts out of the mast with the coax attached and all goes inside a hatch.

We use a 45 watt dual-band radio with the VHF side monitoring the nearest most populated repeater for safety and the UHF side tuned to a simplex. If one of us goes for a walk alone we use UHF to communicate. The radio has two receivers so we can monitor both bands at the same time.

How I get the coax out of the trailer will all be explained in the next few days. If you can’t wait then look at the second picture in the first post as a teaser.
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File Type: jpg D63A1AF6-CB62-4E60-974A-B98464C384B2.jpg (93.6 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 804EBA88-29DA-4CB7-9D26-6271E044B937.jpg (194.8 KB, 12 views)
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Old 01-13-2019, 01:02 AM   #179
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Flush furnace grill for Eggscape

The short story...I removed the wood adaptor/frame and now have a flush furnace grill.

The details...On my first tour of a 19 I noticed the chunky wood adapter/frame that made the furnace grill stick out from the wall. Of course it is attached by two lovely plastic domes. I always wondered why the adapter/frame was required. It turns out ETI made the hole large enough to get the furnace out but the manufacturer did not make the grill that big.

Upon further inspection I found there were no cable clamps holding the furnace power wires away from the side of the furnace. It was touching...possibly rubbing in two places. I added one cable clamp at the front which secured the whole wire away from furnace.

The precision hole ETI cut in the panel for the furnace is not something that needs to be hidden. The grill fits perfectly inside the hole with exactly the same clearance all around. The easy way to mount the grill would simply require wood blocks running from side to side on the top and bottom. Just don’t glue them in as their removal would be required to remove the furnace.

I took a different root by installing two piano hinges with clip nuts in the center for the grill screws to grab. When you have to remove the furnace you can just lay them flat. There is enough clearance for the furnace to pass.

Either method requires a screw on both sides as a backer to support the center legs. I also covered the area with some high heat black paint to make the edges and background less noticeable.

Does this mod need to be done?...not at all. However, I do like the new look and anytime I can get rid of a few plastic domes all the better. I also have a great door frame for my next project!
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:41 AM   #180
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The short story...I welded some square tubing to the rear bumper and got both mast sockets and bumperettes.

The details... I always like when one project or item can serve dual purpose. It just makes it that much more worthwhile in time, cost and weight saving.

As my wife and I are both Amateur Radio Operator (Hams) I like to be able to keep in contact with the outside world. Many of the areas we go and camp here in BC are remote and doesn’t have cellphone coverage. I like to keep my radio tuned to a useful frequency in the area should we or a fellow camper need emergency medical help. Generally speaking the higher you can get your antenna the better chance of that happening. Others may like the mount for a wifi or flag pole.

I searched my stock of square tubing and could not find any with the correct inside dimension to house my 3 section, 22 foot, fiberglass mast with a 1.75 inch dia lower section. I ended up going to a local metal supplier who was happy to cut and sell to the public. He cut to length two perfect pieces for a very reasonable price. He also nipped out two metal squares which I later hand cut diagonally into four braces.

I welded each tube to the inside corner of both sides of the frame. They hang down below the bumper just enough to reveal two holes that I drilled into the sides of the tubing. This allows me the option to hoist the mast up another 1.75 feet and slide in a pin to keep it higher. Due to the height of the mast and antenna that I am using, I also added triangular braces.

I have two masts, if operations require more antennas at events or emergencies. However, I carry just one when we are camping. The two mounts allow me to select the best one to stay clear of any trees or over head wires. The license plate holder had to be moved a tad due to the size and height of my mount. If you are just using a smaller telescoping painters pole for a wifi mast, your mount need not be as high to interfere with the plate. If you’re only thinking of one mount, I would suggest the passenger side, as the trees in the center of a camp site might be less that at the edge. Even with the large diameter of my masts, it clears the belly band and I can still open both of my rear awning windows.
Not sure my first reply reached you, so, I am trying again; wife and I are Hams too....would be interested in specific details on your tubing, antenna pole and coax access from outside to inside RV, 2m antenna ? or HF ? 73's gil
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