Modifications to Eggscape - Page 33

hrewer · 06-17-2021, 02:01 PM

I just viewed your post and liked the idea of opening the window more. I went out to look at it and found that on our 2017 17B there are no screws on the top of the top rail but there are rivets on the front of that rail. I'll need to think about this some more.

Howard

Eggscape · 06-17-2021, 02:11 PM

Is there one rivet on right end and one on the left?

Either way only one has to be removed. It could be drilled out and replace with a pop rivet or a sheet metal screw. I would protect the glass/body with plywood or sheet metal when drilling just in case the bit breaks and the drill bounces around.

hrewer · 06-17-2021, 02:40 PM

I'll have to ponder this. Thanks

h2owmn · 06-17-2021, 03:39 PM

What a thoughtful gift. What a thoughtful daughter!

AuthorSP · 07-02-2021, 01:55 PM

Eggscape, I have just spent hours reading through this post. Thank you!
I have a lot of time to plan and dream before my 19 arrives and I am a sucker for clever engineering. I will probably have more questions for you, but to start, I'd like to ask a bit about the Cheapfield table post.

My wife and I absolutely despise a table that moves when you put your elbows on it. It sounds like yours is pretty stable, but enough to prevent dipping from elbow pressure? We want a table that is smaller than the stock, and yours looks like a good size.

Also, we're not fans of having a pole in the middle of the table for our feet to bump against. We are really interested in the Lagun, but we don't want a U shaped dinette and most importantly, we want it to be tilt and wobble free.

We've seen some interesting mods, like the magazine rack to attach to, but does this give enough support for a sturdy, wobble free table?

Thanks so much for all your time on this!

Eggscape · 07-02-2021, 03:04 PM

I am glad you were entertained with the thread…there is much more to come. My bi line should read…So many mods, so little time to post.

The Cheapfield leg is very strong and when the center clamp is a bit more than hand tight, it is like a solid bar. Both the bottom and top plates screw on very solid as well.

Where the flex comes from is the plastic slider system Escape uses under the table. A few people have modified the slider system using all metal parts.

Screwing to the floor could also be a problem if you were to sit or fall on the edge of the table. The small dia base and the short screws into the floor might give way. The fix would be to mount to a larger plate as in my pictures and/or bolt right through the floor as I did with my raised floor.

The Lagun would mount very nicely to a chunk of plywood placed up front making a magazine rack. It could be attached on all three sides.

Of course I would be inclined to make my own Lagun leg system inspired by the video link below. The change I would do would be to incorporate a large ball bearing swivel plate under the table instead of using the pipe threads. I think the threads may not be as tight thus not elbow friendly.

https://youtu.be/owluWNKs7dU

sumac.rhus · 07-02-2021, 07:54 PM

OMG a place I didn't think to take advantage of in Duddle (trailer) -but my major (beside door) grab-and-go in my house! Thanks!

sumac.rhus · 07-02-2021, 07:56 PM

Let me know what you figure out!

sumac.rhus · 07-02-2021, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sumac.rhus

Let me know what you figure out!

In re to:
I just viewed your post and liked the idea of opening the window more. I went out to look at it and found that on our 2017 17B there are no screws on the top of the top rail but there are rivets on the front of that rail. I'll need to think about this some more.

Howard

sumac.rhus · 07-02-2021, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sumac.rhus

OMG a place I didn't think to take advantage of in Duddle (trailer) -but my major (beside door) grab-and-go in my house! Thanks!

Hmmmm thread not behaving wy I'm used to.
Re:
Valance Bump Shelf for Eggscape
The short story...I, like many others, wanted a shelf above our door for a variety of reasons.

AuthorSP · 07-03-2021, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Where the flex comes from is the plastic slider system Escape uses under the table. A few people have modified the slider system using all metal parts.

Thanks, that might be the way to go.

pacificc · 07-09-2021, 09:11 PM

The doors Escape offers now don't open this far. Wish they did.

Eggscape · 07-10-2021, 12:53 AM

If you are talking about the main trailer door…I was under the impression that you could undo/remove the strut on the bottom and it would open all the way. Just make sure it does not hit an open window.

Eggscape · 07-13-2021, 09:29 PM

The Short Story…We found the hood fan light in our 2018 to be more of a night light than a useful cooking aid. So I replaced it with an aluminum backed, dome covered, LED strip light.

The Details…Almost immediately after getting our trailer we noticed the light in the fan housing was just not going to do the job for us.

I had a few 20 inch enclosed LED strip lights left over from another project and thought one of them would work perfect. The two great things about this light are the plastic cover over the light so it is easy to clean and that the LEDs can be cut in segments of 3 for a perfect fit.

The light fit nicely behind the shroud that hides/protects the wiring and switches. It is behind this shroud that I cut the clear cover of the light and pulled one end to make a space to feed the power wire in and connect it. This makes the light center feed with power and not the traditional end feed. You can just hook up the power to each side of a 4 dot section on the circuit board which is also where you have the option to cut the circuit board every 3 LEDs to length.

On the power end of the wires I installed little blades so that I could plug it directly into the original socket. This way if the LED light fails we can quickly look in the drawer and find the original.

h2owmn · 07-13-2021, 11:12 PM

Topnotch work, as always!

Eggscape · 07-29-2021, 08:47 PM

The Short Story…I designed a solar charging system that meets our needs and budget. The description of what I have done will be explained in 3 posts.

The Details…Lets start by saying, what solar configuration works for one person may not be suitable for another. Here is the setup that works best for us and it is based on the following simple facts. A solar panel in the sun works better than one in the shade and a solar panel angled directly at the sun works better than one that is mounted flat.

When we look for a camp spot we try and find the one that offers the most shade for the trailer to keep it cool. I knew from the beginning that a roof mounted solar panel was not for us.

Our solar is not attached to the trailer so it can be used in multiple applications and be placed in the sun. We can take it with us to the cabin, use it to charge our friends trailers in other camp sites and use it to charge our batteries during remote communications events.

Going for the biggest bang for the buck that we could still stow and handle, I purchased a 180 watt unit from Amazon Canada offered by BougeRV. Hobotech did a video on the panel and had a special link for $180 Canadian…which has long expired.
https://youtu.be/9v0YMF7TMrk

At roughly 58 x 26 inches it is not what one might call portable by today’s standards. I will explain in a later post on how we transport the panel. I did not want a flexible panel as even the manufacturers are not impressed with their products and they demonstrate that by offering minimal warranties.

Once I had the panel it was time to modify it…of course.

I started by adding some extra support to the corners whether they need it or not. Some standard store bought steal corner brackets were slid behind the frame and attached with pop rivets and screws where rubber feet were added. Should I want to keep a low profile and charge while it is flat, the rubber feet will allow a little air flow for cooling behind.

To have it point at the sun I made a adjustable folding leg from 1/2 conduit with a long threaded nut jammed into one end to accept 3/8 ready rod that is hinged to the frame. All that will become clear in the pictures.

You could also use a turnbuckle(s) to adjust the leg length but what I have done allows for extreme adjustability. Any raw metal edges of the pipe or rod was coated in clear nail polish.

To carry it l added heavy duty metal backed handle I had in my junk box. I think it was a door pull from a 70s Ford.

I also replaced the wiring on the back with some of larger gauge but still super flex.

Wiring, connectors and controller(s) will also be explained in later posts.

Ops · 07-29-2021, 10:46 PM

Dumb question, probably answered multiple times, but I'll ask just the same:

We ordered our 2020-21NE with duel solar panels AND zamp inlet/plug/whatever.

I have 2 (Renorgy) 100 watt solar panels that I want to configure as supplementary power and plug into the zamp inlet on our rig...so that I can point them at the sun when in the 'trees'.

Beyond making sure that negative/positive connections are proper - anything else I need? There's already a controller in our trailer for the existing solar.

Any cautions of plug and play beyond polarity?

Eggscape · 07-29-2021, 11:24 PM

I am sure there is someone doing the exact same thing that is familiar with the equipment that is better able to let you know what will work.

cpaharley2008 · 07-30-2021, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ops

Dumb question, probably answered multiple times, but I'll ask just the same:

We ordered our 2020-21NE with duel solar panels AND zamp inlet/plug/whatever.

I have 2 (Renorgy) 100 watt solar panels that I want to configure as supplementary power and plug into the zamp inlet on our rig...so that I can point them at the sun when in the 'trees'.

Beyond making sure that negative/positive connections are proper - anything else I need? There's already a controller in our trailer for the existing solar.

Any cautions of plug and play beyond polarity?

I doubt you will need the portable panels with the factory set up you have but why not ask the factory this question?

Dcboyd · 07-30-2021, 07:22 PM

Got rid of our China bomb tires today. Existing tires had less than 2000 miles (Carlisles). Installed a full set (5) of Goodyear Endurance. Hope they will be good tires. Existing were fine. Wife was on Escape Facebook forum listened to someone having trouble with their tires and said “I want ours changed out “. Said ok. Carlisle at 2000 miles still had mold dimples on tread facing.
She is happy now. Anyway it gave me a chance to finish undercoating the frame behind the tires and install anti seize on lug threads.

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