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Old 01-15-2022, 02:42 PM   #701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
I don’t think that I will have a lot of extra energy left by the time spring rolls around Jim.

I am building a Trolley Top Square Drop for my daughter so they don’t have to camp in a tent. Square Drops are a thing and have a big following just like Tear Drop trailers. As some of us know…if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself.

Sort of a father daughter build of which I welded up the frame late last fall. Just beginning the body work now. Here are a few pictures of the build so far including the model I built.

Loved seeing your Model! I did one for a Tiny House Trailer I was thinking of building. Look to more aerodynamic, than what plans were out there. Get your daughter into it bigtime.
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Old 01-15-2022, 03:06 PM   #702
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Loved seeing your Model! I did one for a Tiny House Trailer I was thinking of building. Look to more aerodynamic, than what plans were out there. Get your daughter into it bigtime.
Nice…my Tiny Home model is still in my head and will probably stay there.

Aerodynamic as well with a roof sloped from the front up, bay window up front and a sunken floor seating area up front between the frame rails. Rear door with fold down rear patio.
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Old 01-15-2022, 03:29 PM   #703
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Look to more aerodynamic
I don't think aerodynamics are an issue for a tiny house that will be moved infrequently and at five kilometres per hour.
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Old 01-15-2022, 04:38 PM   #704
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I don't think aerodynamics are an issue for a tiny house that will be moved infrequently and at five kilometres per hour.

I had an F250 back then, & did plan on using it on the road. When I first planned on wandering around, going to Dog Trials in it. Yet have something livable, to live in it, while I built my last house. Wasn't that big, I think 18' ft trailer bed, so shorter than an E19.
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Old 01-15-2022, 05:27 PM   #705
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I know I'll be tearing apart the dining area & raising it like yours, is another Modification, not sure what else is from yours, I've saved some others, in case searches don't pull them up. A major thing, will be to shrink the queen bed to a full. Which isn't on your list, and one I'll have to take slowly. Collect what I think I'll need, & support as I go.
Shrinking the queen bed is quite doable but might be more work than anticipated.

Just above the two under bed doors there is a lot of wiring running side-to-side as well as the hot and cold water lines. A bit of work to relocate them but not a major problem. It just would be a surprise if someone was expecting that it was just a matter of unscrewing a bit of framing etc.

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Old 01-15-2022, 06:41 PM   #706
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Shrinking the queen bed is quite doable but might be more work than anticipated.

Just above the two under bed doors there is a lot of wiring running side-to-side as well as the hot and cold water lines. A bit of work to relocate them but not a major problem. It just would be a surprise if someone was expecting that it was just a matter of unscrewing a bit of framing etc.

Ron
I know it will not be easy. I saw those lines in someone's photo through the outside hatch door. Figure I'll do a new fiberglassed in "rib" too, as that is the "weak side" for cross bracing compared to the bath/frig side. But a queen bed for one person is such a wasted use of space. Would really like the space in "The Kitchen". I'd go down to a twin, but for resale value. I don't like the bed at the door with the flipped, & won't fit 2 people. I have everything for the PEX work, may do some of the Mods. while in there. I ran most of the wiring in my houses, can add a outlet or two while changing out. If there is a 120 line, do the Pop up outlet from that side. There is a lot more of looking at all the photos in here, to see what's underneath, all the build photos. Plenty of planning to do.
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Old 01-15-2022, 06:47 PM   #707
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Nice…my Tiny Home model is still in my head and will probably stay there.

Aerodynamic as well with a roof sloped from the front up, bay window up front and a sunken floor seating area up front between the frame rails. Rear door with fold down rear patio.


OH, isn't it hard not to be able to build all, you design in your head or have down on paper. The small house plans in my head. My 1st house was only 800 sq ft.
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Old 01-15-2022, 09:15 PM   #708
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I know it will not be easy. I saw those lines in someone's photo through the outside hatch door. Figure I'll do a new fiberglassed in "rib" too, as that is the "weak side" for cross bracing compared to the bath/frig side. But a queen bed for one person is such a wasted use of space. Would really like the space in "The Kitchen". I'd go down to a twin, but for resale value. I don't like the bed at the door with the flipped, & won't fit 2 people. I have everything for the PEX work, may do some of the Mods. while in there. I ran most of the wiring in my houses, can add a outlet or two while changing out. If there is a 120 line, do the Pop up outlet from that side. There is a lot more of looking at all the photos in here, to see what's underneath, all the build photos. Plenty of planning to do.
Sounds like you're a good candidate to do those mods.

One thing I did at the same time is installing the IKEA bed slats was to insulate the underside of the bed platform with 1" rigid foam. It was winter when I was doing my mods and I took an IR reading on the hatch door. It was at freezing, the same as outside. So I treated the underbed area more like an unheated crawlspace. If nothing else, insulate the hatch door, it has the R value of an open window.

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Old 01-16-2022, 05:48 PM   #709
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Sounds like you're a good candidate to do those mods.

One thing I did at the same time is installing the IKEA bed slats was to insulate the underside of the bed platform with 1" rigid foam. It was winter when I was doing my mods and I took an IR reading on the hatch door. It was at freezing, the same as outside. So I treated the underbed area more like an unheated crawlspace. If nothing else, insulate the hatch door, it has the R value of an open window.

Ron

I want to possibly use some of that area under there as a dog crate/cave area. Do one row of the pull out crates, take other door off. I have a dog who LOVES his crates, can't keep him out(he off in one somewhere right now). Would help keep him out from under foot to keep him happy. So am looking into dividing off & insulating the area accessed from inside, from the outside hatch side. But do know those hatch doors are a huge heat loss, still insulate somehow. I have a few 4' x 4' sheets of a 1/2 ridge insulation(paper backed) R 4.5, I can play with under there I think.
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:57 PM   #710
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The Short Story...Using the screw that holds the corner pad in place, I installed a drink holder in the rear bed area.

The Details...Years ago when we had our Boler, my wife, being shorter than me, sort of volunteered to bend herself and sleep against the curved rear wall. Now that we have an Escape it is my turn to be at the rear. However, sometimes, depending where we are camping, I can get a little dry in the night and need a drink. Up to now I have had a glass of water beside the stove but that reach over can be a little disturbing to my wife and returning the glass to the correct position in the dark can be questionable.

Having removed the corner pads a few times I knew that there was a block of wood fiberglassed into the corner that was big enough for not only the original screw but a second one as well. This attaches the drink holder very securely. Make sure you check behind the pad for the block placement so you don’t miss with the second screw.

This particular holder is made for a bike and I am very happy in its flexibility to hold various styles of glasses and containers. I purchased it from AliExpress for less than $1. Yes...at that price I did get a few more for our boat as well. I could not find the same great price but did include a few links for under $2 each. Of course, for a bike drink holder like this you can just pop to your local Canada Tire or Walmart.

Keep in mind that over time these links...as do all links in AliExpress I have posted... can change. By change I mean all of a sudden the seller will want you to pay $60 shipping via DHL for a now $10 item that was originally $2. So if it does not look like a good deal...do your own search.

http://s.aliexpress.com/ZVzmYVba

http://s.aliexpress.com/vyQfeuiQ

HA, I just picked one up at the Goodwill 3 days ago, for that very reason......now I know where to put it!
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Old 01-23-2022, 02:41 PM   #711
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Eggscape,

Whew! Have read through all of your wonderful write-ups of your MANY mods. Wow, just wow! I've added quite a few of them to my lists of potential mods - yes multiple lists. This was all so helpful for this newbie who's trying to be as prepared as possible for when my Escape 5.0 is finished.

Thank you so much for patiently sharing all of your many mods with detailed descriptions & photos.
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Old 01-23-2022, 04:32 PM   #712
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I am glad you enjoyed the read Lorraine and happy that there were a few ideas suitable for your new 5 when it comes.

I am looking forward to when the snow is gone here so I can do some more mods on my list.
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Old 02-26-2022, 11:39 AM   #713
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Tailgate Talk

The Short Story…I installed an aftermarket tailgate damper and it works great to give it a soft landing.

The Details…I must be getting weak because tailgates seem to be getting heavier on each new truck. I do have the pull out step and handle inside the tailgate that I am sure adds to the weight but I am not giving that up because I can’t just jump into the bed of a truck like I used to either.

More than not I have something in my hands when I am opening the tailgate and once the handle is pulled it is a bit of fumble with the tailgate sliding down my body so it does not slam down.

While I was looking for gas struts for my trailer build, I came across an aftermarket strut on Amazon that is designed for my F150’s tailgate. At $30 Canadian I thought I would give it a try.

Some reviews says it is slower to open the tailgate and yes it is…that is the point. When you open the tailgate it free falls for the first half of the motion then the damper starts to work bringing it to a soft landing. It also has no effect on closing the tailgate as some people have said it takes more effort.

Installation was straight forward and I have attached a video that shows it all. I did find I needed a 5mm Allen wrench that was not included in my kit. There are many sellers of this kit on Amazon so if you do not have this wrench as pictured below, you might find one that includes it. It works as stated and is available for other pickups and years.

Here is a link to the install video:

https://youtu.be/SVnbhM9JzEo
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Old 02-26-2022, 02:17 PM   #714
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I installed that on our 2016 F-150 when we bought it last February and it works great! Those tailgates are heavy!
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Old 02-26-2022, 06:53 PM   #715
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What year F150 are we talking about?

My 2018 has an aluminum tailgate and a damper built in. Hit the remote and it just glides down. Easy to lift up closing also.

Thanks to AzJacks son who showed me his add on side step my tailgate and step make it the most civilized tailgate that I've ever had.

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Old 02-26-2022, 07:07 PM   #716
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Mine is a 2017 with aluminum tailgate as well but the remote control and damper option was was a little to pricey. At least for $30 I got half of the option.
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Old 02-26-2022, 07:12 PM   #717
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My F150 (2016) opens easy and slow with the master key (remote).... Lauriat edition
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Old 03-16-2022, 03:25 PM   #718
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Great details thanks
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Old 04-03-2022, 11:33 AM   #719
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More Tailgate Talk

The Short Story: I installed a thin washer on each upper cable post to stop a quick tailgate theft.

The Details: A few years back a friend of mind was in our local mall shopping and when he came back to his Dodge Ram in the parking lot, his tailgate had been stolen. Upon reporting this to the police he found out that this was a growing theft problem.

He pointed out to me that for years now tailgates have been designed to be super easy to remove…in case you use a camper. Just unclip the cables from the upper two support posts, then at an angle, remove the tailgate from the lower posts. Who knew…

He also found out that you just can’t go into dealership and order a blue tailgate for a Ram Pickup. You have to order each part from the expanded tailgate diagram…every bolt and bracket. The tailgate itself comes unpainted, extending the ordeal.

It was a painful and expensive process considering that he had added a locking tailgate handle for when he had something inside to lock up. Little did he think that the tailgate itself was worth more than most things that he had ever carried in the back of the truck.

Nowadays most tailgates come from the factory with a power lock like ours. But this modification is so easy to do, I thought I would do it again on this pickup as well…in case I forget to lock the truck.

By adding a thin washer to each upper post it stops the clips from releasing the cables. Doesn’t get much simpler than that to have the thief move onto one that is easier to remove.
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Old 04-03-2022, 12:10 PM   #720
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Cheap insurance. I've wondered several times what the replacement cost would be for the F150 tailgate with a camera.

Around here a bigger danger is theft of your catalytic converter. Pickups are so easy to slide underneath. Not much you can do to prevent theft unless it's in a locked garage.

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