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Old 11-15-2018, 08:02 AM   #61
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That lamp is a very nice touch, Ed.
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:27 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
Short story...I installed a paper towel holder from Walmart that fits perfectly.

The details...This is great paper towel holder. It has a good looking finish and ratchets to allow one handed removal of sheets. I mounted it on the stud by the door so that it is acceptable from both the inside and outside.
Great location & Install. Question ~ what length screws did you use? Have not drilled or added screws yet to our new 19’RFP. Advice appreciated.
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:42 AM   #63
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Here is a picture of the screw ETI used in the Escape 19 light. It sticks out 5/8 of an inch which to me is the important length to give you.
I used 1/2 inch screws and 4 of them made my bracket solid.
NOTE: As the light is screwed through the vinyl material and held back from sitting directly on the wood...don’t expect that the wood is 5/8 th. That is why I used 1/2 inch screws.
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Old 11-15-2018, 11:54 AM   #64
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Quote:
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Here is a picture of the screw ETI used in the Escape 19 light. It sticks out 5/8 of an inch which to me is the important length to give you.
I used 1/2 inch screws and 4 of them made my bracket solid.
NOTE: As the light is screwed through the vinyl material and held back from sitting directly on the wood...don’t expect that the wood is 5/8 th. That is why I used 1/2 screws.
Thanks ~ Just to confirm 1/2” screws for the Paper Towel Holder?
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Old 11-15-2018, 12:15 PM   #65
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Thanks ~ Just to confirm 1/2” screws for the Paper Towel Holder?
Sorry no...I failed to read your question correctly.
The door frame on the late model 19 is about 2.5 inches thick so 1 to 1.5 inches should work just fine. This is what you are screwing into.
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Old 11-15-2018, 12:35 PM   #66
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If screwing into vinyl walls makes you nervous you might consider this alternative.
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Old 11-15-2018, 12:59 PM   #67
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Sweet. We dont have a light fixture in that location on our classic 19. Did you have them add a fixture there or is it now standard in the new 19?
You must have just missed out. They must have started adding them pretty soon after you got your unit. Jim B. and I both added the factory type lights over the dinette. As I commented at the time, why do I have this bright two bulb light over the bed but not one over the table? Maybe someone heard my comment.

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Old 11-15-2018, 04:17 PM   #68
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and those are the old style fixtures with replaceable bulbs, wished they still used them today.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:54 AM   #69
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COB strip LED

Speaking of COB lights...I purchased strips to do some in cupboard lighting in the future and found that they fit perfectly in the light fixture of the 2017 models should you need a replacement. They are very bright and being COB they should be good on energy as well.
They come with double sided foam tape for mounting and they are waterproof if you want to mount them under the trailer.
Not bad for under a $1 Canadian, tax in and free shipping.

1Pcs update Ultra Bright LED Daytime Running lights DC 12V 17cm Waterproof Auto Car DRL COB Driving Fog lamp-in Car Light Assembly from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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Old 11-22-2018, 06:33 PM   #70
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Please note that due to the Canadian postal strike some of the AliExpress links I have provided are now charging for courier service and not free shipping via the postal service.

This should return to normal free shipping once the strike is over.

An example is the 3w COB LED bulb that is usually $2 with free shipping...is now showing $45 shipping via FedEx!
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Old 11-22-2018, 08:04 PM   #71
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8 DIY Captain lights for Eggscape

The short story...I repurposed some track lights that I found at Restore into Captains reading lights with COB LED bulbs for $4 each.


The details...I have not heard of anything wrong with the LED Captain reading lights that ETI offers...I just like building stuff.

A year ago I had been going over the option sheet for our 19 and was thinking of how many Captain lights to order. A few days later while shopping at Restore I noticed a bin full of used track lights and it was just like a light went off in my head. Here they were, what seemed like a limitless selection of lights to be reassigned to Escape duty. The biggest decision was picking a style. Some were $1 each, others were pricey at $2 each.

We had just come back from visiting ETI where I had noticed the LEDs they were using in their Captains lights. I started doing my research to find just the right LED for my project and found the 3 watt COB style bulbs that I described in previous posts. I like the look of them and upon installation found the soft light to be just right.

The track lights I picked have a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer in a rectangle box as the bulb is 12 volts. The transformer needs to be removed if you want to use the box to house the switch. Most of the time the glue that is used to secure the transformer in the box cracks away...sometimes it doesn’t. If you want a lower profile light you can use a flat plate like that used for a cable vision outlet. You may find the fixture you like the best has no transformer and a 120 volt bulb. A flat or dome plate can work for this as well. I knew I was going to have some other things in the area to control so I installed 4 switches. Drilling an 1/8 inch pilot hole then using a step bit makes for a clean cut in the light plastic. Holes in each corner were made to screw the box to the underside of the cabinet.

I sourced the power for the front lights from behind the vertical pads in each corner. There is enough space to squeeze the wire between the lower edge of the cabinet and the vinyl. The rear lights I just replaced the stock units. As you can see from the pictures I got a little creative with some of them and used one base for two lights. The rear location being in the center was important to me as my wife likes to read a bit in bed and I don’t. Having the light between us allows the light my wife uses to point away from me. I also replaced the light at the foot of the bed for the sake of making both sides match, and that our foot of the bed maybe the next persons head of the bed.

As a bonus, in all the lights I added one blue LED each. Simply drill a hole for the LED then press it into the hole with a little hot glue on the back to secure it. I also use spots of hot glue to secure the wires inside the box from any vibrations. The blue LEDs that l have selected contain a limiting resistor so that they can be directly connected to 12 volts. They point down the wall in the corner which is great back lighting while watching tv. The blue lights in the rear point towards the corner to match the front.

One of the dual lights is also mounted by the door and provides light while entering and exiting.

At 8 bulbs of light, I figure that works out to be $320 worth of Escape Captains lights before tax. The tax I would have paid on that many lights covers my supplies but more importantly I got the COB bulbs I wanted plus extra leds and switches.

$2.17 for a 10 pack of switches with free shipping.

OR 53 cents for a 2 pack of switches with free shipping.

$1.27 will buy 10 blue 12 volt leds with free shipping.

I can’t include the links to these item while the Canadian postal strike is on as the shipping for most of the items has gone from free to as high as $45 for a $2 item by FedEx.

I will post the links at a later date when the strike is over.
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Old 11-22-2018, 09:44 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
The short story...I repurposed some track lights that I found at Restore into Captains reading lights with COB LED bulbs for $4 each.
...
The track lights I picked have a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer in a rectangle box as the bulb is 12 volts. The transformer needs to be removed if you want to use the box to house the switch...
The voltage of the transformer output will be relatively constant. Are you planning to add a voltage regulator, or just hoping that the variations in the trailer's DC voltage will be okay for these LED units?
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Old 11-22-2018, 10:42 PM   #73
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I have had the two front spots installed and have been testing them since before the Escape appreciation event last May and all has been ok. They run very cool with the fins they have, showing no high voltage stress in many battery charge states. These are the 3 watt units so I can’t speak for the other units that range up to 18 watts.
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Old 11-24-2018, 08:46 PM   #74
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3 Watt LED Smoke Test

So I just finished running the light at 14.5 volts for 27 hours straight. Warm to the touch but nowhere near hot. This light runs a lot cooler than some of the LED discs and squares without heat sinks you buy to replace old style RV bulbs. Since this housing supports COBs up to 18 watts, I think the design is over rated for the 3 watt units I order.

For the photo I used two lights to demonstrate how the front of them comes apart on the left and the rear comes apart on the right. The outer ring that holds the glass and reflector in place unscrews from the threads on the end of each fin. You can see the COB light is mounted to the metal heat sink. The back unscrews to reveal a semi sealed circuit board. It is always nice to see a capacitor rated at 25 volts for a 12 volt item, than one at 16 volts and operating on the hairy edge of failure. For $2 each I am impressed that you can unscrew the unit, then put it all back together again.
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Old 11-25-2018, 05:10 PM   #75
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Last year at the Escape rally I made what I thought was an interesting observation. Of the 130 plus trailers that showed up, many opening their doors to show off their personalization, one thing stood out to me that was common. It was not the many different floorings or fabric colours and I don’t even want to know what the alligator skin covered counter top cost, it was that every trailer still had the factory installed plastic lights. Just kidding I think it was cheap elephant skin knock off. My point is that some people will spend large amounts of money to customize some parts of their trailer but not change the plastic lights.

I am not saying there is anything wrong with the plastic RV lights...they are functional and thousands, maybe millions of trailers have them. If you’re in love with them...that’s ok too. But the factory lights can be changed out for something different just like you can change or upgrade your lights at home. With a little searching you might find a marine light used inside of a yacht that you like better or you might like to keep it simple and remove the outer ring and paint it to match your lime green fabric or outside strips.

You have all been nice to me so far and not commented that the lights I have modified and installed are not to your taste. My point in posting my light installations are to show that you can be creative and do the same with something that suits you. It may be just one or two lights you want to upgrade. Maybe you want to install all new lights that are the same style because it is like being in the same room. I like to have different lights as one does in their dining room, kitchen and bedroom. If you don’t have the factory wiring in the ceiling like the later models, don’t rule out wall mount units.

Just because I repurpose light fixtures does not mean that you can’t go out and buy a new household fixture and replace the bulb. I find that even the cheapest household light looks better than most plastic RV lights. With the many types of LED bulbs and strips it is not that hard to stick them in the lamp with the provided double sided tape where the 120 volt bulb was. You may want to use one or many strips or pads to get the light you want.

I know many of you have the skill to do the job as you have installed great in cabinet, storage, strip, puck and auxiliary lights, including other more complicated trailer wiring.

Here are a few other fixtures I found. There were many boxes of the minimalistic white one, brand new. There were two perfectly sized stainless steal pedants, one of which would go great over a dinette. If I were to do my dinette pendant over again I would install a quick release twist jack at the top so I could change out the lights. Worth it just for the hoot factor. Imagine your fellow RV guest coming back into the trailer after a few drinks and the light was different...or maybe it wasn’t.

I have also attached a picture of the 2018 Escape light fixture so you can see how it comes apart.

Every time you look at your plastic RV light I want you to think...I can do better! I will continue shortly with a few more posts of my light installs to spur you on and EGGnite your creative juices.

Good luck with your new winter project...the future is bright.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:05 PM   #76
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............. My point is that some people will spend large amounts of money to customize some parts of their trailer but not change the plastic lights.

I am not saying there is anything wrong with the plastic RV lights...they are functional and thousands, maybe millions of trailers have them. If you’re in love with them...that’s ok too. But the factory lights can be changed out for something different just like you can change or upgrade your lights at home. With a little searching you might find a marine light used inside of a yacht that you like better or you might like to keep it simple and remove the outer ring and paint it to match your lime green fabric or outside strips.

........
Wow, Ed, that's an eye opener. I just never thought about it. But now, you went and opened the door to a whole new set of mods. (I'll be sure to conceal this thread from my wife; I've got a big enough list already).
Seriously, thanks for the idea. We'll see what the new year brings.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:28 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
Last year at the Escape rally I made what I thought was an interesting observation. Of the 130 plus trailers that showed up, many opening their doors to show off their personalization, one thing stood out to me that was common. It was not the many different floorings or fabric colours and I don’t even want to know what the alligator skin covered counter top cost, it was that every trailer still had the factory installed plastic lights. Just kidding I think it was cheap elephant skin knock off. My point is that some people will spend large amounts of money to customize some parts of their trailer but not change the plastic lights.

I am not saying there is anything wrong with the plastic RV lights...they are functional and thousands, maybe millions of trailers have them. If you’re in love with them...that’s ok too. But the factory lights can be changed out for something different just like you can change or upgrade your lights at home. With a little searching you might find a marine light used inside of a yacht that you like better or you might like to keep it simple and remove the outer ring and paint it to match your lime green fabric or outside strips.

You have all been nice to me so far and not commented that the lights I have modified and installed are not to your taste. My point in posting my light installations are to show that you can be creative and do the same with something that suits you. It may be just one or two lights you want to upgrade. Maybe you want to install all new lights that are the same style because it is like being in the same room. I like to have different lights as one does in their dining room, kitchen and bedroom. If you don’t have the factory wiring in the ceiling like the later models, don’t rule out wall mount units.

Just because I repurpose light fixtures does not mean that you can’t go out and buy a new household fixture and replace the bulb. I find that even the cheapest household light looks better than most plastic RV lights. With the many types of LED bulbs and strips it is not that hard to stick them in the lamp with the provided double sided tape where the 120 volt bulb was. You may want to use one or many strips or pads to get the light you want.

I know many of you have the skill to do the job as you have installed great in cabinet, storage, strip, puck and auxiliary lights, including other more complicated trailer wiring.

Here are a few other fixtures I found. There were many boxes of the minimalistic white one, brand new. There were two perfectly sized stainless steal pedants, one of which would go great over a dinette. If I were to do my dinette pendant over again I would install a quick release twist jack at the top so I could change out the lights. Worth it just for the hoot factor. Imagine your fellow RV guest coming back into the trailer after a few drinks and the light was different...or maybe it wasn’t.

I have also attached a picture of the 2018 Escape light fixture so you can see how it comes apart.

Every time you look at your plastic RV light I want you to think...I can do better! I will continue shortly with a few more posts of my light installs to spur you on and EGGnite your creative juices.

Good luck with your new winter project...the future is bright.
Changing out the inside lights are really down at the bottom of our list . Really like the RV lights are flatter to the ceiling and work fine .We do have a couple of stainless reading lamps that were ordered with the trailer . Most of the mods to our trailer were because those items were not working out . Most were degraded by uv's or other problems . The interior change in Formica and cushions were always in the plans , and knew we could do it for a better price. Improving the cabinets and storage was needed for us .The last mods done were as said because of problems with those items . When the changes are made going to get better longer lasting products . Good job on improving your lighting with great prices . If someday the current RV lights become a problem will definetly change out what we have and most likely improve the quality and looks . Pat
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Old 11-25-2018, 09:42 PM   #78
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I have thought about doing some nice Red Oak surrounds for the lights that are mounted under cabinets, but I agree with Pat. The lights work well, serve their purpose and we mostly use the four optional stainless captains lights, two at each end.for indirect soft lighting at night.
It just isn’t a glaring issue for us.
I do enjoy following what ur doing and it’s obvious that you really enjoy it, which is awesome to watch. Someday, when the main mods on my list get in place, I may start looking at changing out some of the lights.
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:01 AM   #79
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Bedroom Light

The short story...yet another salvaged light and pot lid steampunked together for under $10.
There are more lights I have changed but you get the idea so I will move on to other modifications next.

The details...This track light used a 120 volt bulb in it’s previous life so a suitable 12 volt socket had to be installed. A 25 cent donor light (pictured) had the necessary part.

The installation trick of this light was how to install it without screws through the base. This light rotates in the mounting shaft and requires the light to be bolted securely through the center to the mounting plate...or should I say pot lid. I did this with a barrel nut on the back side. The barrel nut I used was 3/4 of an inch long which allowed the light to be screwed into the bottom end and the top end open to accept the standard mounting threaded hollow shaft. This allows the whole pot lid to be screwed onto the mount. But wait...you can’t do that because all the lamp wires that go up the shaft would literally be all screwed up. Simple solution, undo the lamps two pivot side screws and let it dangle while the pot lid and lamp arms are screwed on. Once the base is secured to the roof, slide the lamp back up in between the bracket and reinstall the two side pivot screws.

I wanted to be able to turn the light off just as the factory one allows. However, I could not mount the switch in the base/pot lid as it needs to rotate during installation. So I mounted the switch behind the bulb at the back of the lamp.

The light tilts and rotates almost 360 degrees. One great thing that I realized after installing it was that you can point it at any rear cupboard and light up the inside. No need to install cupboard lights back there.

Even though I cleaned the pot lid there were still a few scratches. A little polish and it sparkled up like new.

$4 for the light, $1 for the pot lid, $2 for the bulb and 50 cents for the switch.
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:27 AM   #80
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Just wow. I love when disparate things come together for a solution!!
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