I'm confused, with the "U" option I thought the EMS was already in the rear vs the side dinette, so why did it need to be moved?
Ours was mounted on the side, almost under the gray breaker box. While traveling we found the boxes we had on that side always ended up against the EMS.
I was presented with these pictures for the "U" set up, the rear, passenger, driver side showing pump, EMS, batteries, converter, and inverter. I guess I will need to confirm these locations when my build starts.
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
I was presented with these pictures for the "U" set up, the rear, passenger, driver side showing pump, EMS, batteries, converter, and inverter. I guess I will need to confirm these locations when my build starts.
Those are correct, ours was mounted a bit more forward. I moved it behind the breaker panel/converter/battery charger. This opened up the space from the water pump right to the rear of the trailer giving us about 10” more of storage and placing the EMS where there was no storage. It fit perfect I will post a picture later of its new location.
2 Gallon Accumulator Tank in 5.0/Water Heat Relief Valve
We have a 2017 5.0 TA (display), purchased new in July 2018. Except for the first two or three times the water heater (WH) was used, I observed that the relief valve vented what I thought was an excessive amount of water every time the WH runs a heat cycle. I may not have been paying attention and it might have done this from the beginning, or a substantial air pocket may have initially existed in the top of the WH tank that mitigated the expansion/pressure increase. After completing the following tests, I do not draw any conclusions about what modifications makes sense (I expect everyone will have their own opinion), or even what is “normal” in terms of WH relief valve venting. I am just reporting the results of my narrowly focused tests.
Not realizing that ETI had installed a check valve at the cold water inlet of the water heater, I installed a 2 gallon accumulator (pressure tank w/ air bladder) between the water pump and the WH. See post #155 on page 16 of this thread for photos. Because the check valve isolates the cold water side of the plumbing system from hot water expansion, the accumulator had no effect on the relief valve venting (my primary reason for installing the accumulator).
I wanted: 1.) to quantify the amount of water venting from the water heater’s temperature and pressure relief valve; and to determine 2.) how hot the water was getting; and 3.) the pressures developed at the top of the heat cycle. To do this I removed the relief valve from the WH and installed a ¾” diameter threaded steel nipple with a ¾” threaded steel cross on the outboard end of the nipple. See photos. At the end of the cross I reinstalled the relief valve. In one side of the cross I installed a water temperature gauge, in the other side a pressure gauge. I then ran several tests with electric as the WH power source and one with propane as the heat source. Presumably, removing the relief valve to install the nipple, cross, etc., established an air pocket in the WH before the test began. If so, it did not prevent our relief valve from venting due to high pressure during the heat cycle.
Relating to the WH, in general I found:
•using electricity our WH heats up to 120-123° F, with propane the WH cycled off at 130° F;
•our relief valve begins to drip around 138-140 PSI, and as temps drop it seals around 135 PSI;
•water pressure peaked at 146 PSI or less, the valve vented in drips at up to 100-110 drops/minute.
According to published data, our ETI supplied Shurflo 4008-101-A65 water pump is designed to come on at 40 PSI and turn off at 60 PSI. For our unit, the water pump-on/off-settings have a spread of approximately 15-16 PSI, for example: on at 40 PSI, off at 56 PSI; or on at 44 PSI, off at 59 PSI. The actual engagement/disengagement points vary (perhaps in response to temperature?). Without the 2 gallon accumulator (I can isolate it by turning a ball valve) in use, just an ounce or so of water use triggers the pump. With the 2 gallon accumulator (air pressurized to 37 PSI) in the system, starting with the water pressure run to the “top” (56-59 PSI), I can run 44 oz. of water before the pressure drops enough to trigger the water pump. For example: starting at 59 PSI, 16 oz. of water run drops PSI to 51; 32 oz. of water run = 47 PSI; 44 oz. of water run = 44 PSI.
When I vented 16+ oz. of water from a hot water faucet, after the WH heat cycle had begun, the accumulator kept the pump from coming on and the pressure relief valve did not vent because the pressure in the hot water side of the plumbing has been reduced.
Possible alternative modifications include plumbing the accumulator into the hot water side of the system. The unit I bought is rated for this application, but this would not prevent the pump from coming on whenever the toilet is flushed or a cup of water is drawn, a benefit we currently enjoy.
Another option is to relocate the current brass check valve further upstream, using pex adapters to install it between the accumulator and the pump. This would likely prevent the relief valve from opening when using the WH, while protecting the weak check valve integral to the pump. It might lead to leaking from the toilet when the WH runs, though a two gallon accumulator might keep the pressure low enough to prevent this. Of course one could just disregard the mud puddle that develops under the WH when it is used and think about something else.
Regarding your excessive leaking PRV, if it is still leaking after re-establishing air pocket it is most likely the PRV is not seating fully.
1.Spin the PRV handle several times, in hopes that debris/scale is cleared.
2.Tap the PRV lightly with a screw driver handle, in hopes that proper seating takes place.
3. Your PRV is faulty, not seating properly/spring pressure/misalignment. Who knows but I would replace PRV with similar.
This would be my trouble shooting procedure. If this does not correct excessive leaking, I would call suburban you are still under warranty.
Tin.
What size are the plastic vents in the cabinet underneath the 19’ Escape queen bed? Is this a new modification offered?
They’re an off-menu item that historically ETI will do if you ask them to. They’re 2” diameter. It’s much cheaper to buy and install them yourself if you want to save a few bucks: Maurice Franklin Louver-2" Round Brown Polypropylene Plastic Louver with Insect Screen System (Priced Per Bag of 6). 2" PLB-100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFESESG..._V030BbXJ79SGP
Location: In my Escape...full time. Currently in Maine, Maine
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson
They’re an off-menu item that historically ETI will do if you ask them to. They’re 2” diameter. It’s much cheaper to buy and install them yourself if you want to save a few bucks: Maurice Franklin Louver-2" Round Brown Polypropylene Plastic Louver with Insect Screen System (Priced Per Bag of 6). 2" PLB-100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFESESG..._V030BbXJ79SGP
Wondering if these actually do any good? Was thinking of possibly putting a couple in the under dinette storage where all the electrical gear is located. Just installed a 2000 watt inverter in there that could generate a bit of heat. Under the bed though... any experiences with these? Thanks!
Wondering if these actually do any good? Was thinking of possibly putting a couple in the under dinette storage where all the electrical gear is located. Just installed a 2000 watt inverter in there that could generate a bit of heat. Under the bed though... any experiences with these? Thanks!
Wondering if these actually do any good? Was thinking of possibly putting a couple in the under dinette storage where all the electrical gear is located. Just installed a 2000 watt inverter in there that could generate a bit of heat. Under the bed though... any experiences with these? Thanks!
We’ve had our vents in all the cabinetry since new, so do not have direct comparison data for with/without performance. Condensation in dead air spaces is real so must be mitigated one way or another. Even if hear don’t do much good, at least they can’t hurt.
For the underbed area specifically, I plan to install two small fans that will draw air from under and around the mattress down into the underbed area. Mattress is sitting on top of hypervent. Air should be expelled into main cabin via the door vents. I’ll post pics when I get around to putting it all together.
Linear Mode
