Mods I Haven't Seen Elsewhere

[sclifrickson]

I had a 25 foot (7.62m for you sensible types up north) dedicated solar cable for our briefcase solar panel and found that it was frequently too short. I considered adding some connectors to enable using a longish, standard 15A extension cord, but then realized I'm already carrying a 50', 30A heavy duty extension cord with me everywhere we go, so found a pair of 30A pigtails, introduced them to some friendly MC4 connectors and crimping tool, and voila!





(Cable is draped across front of panel for show and tell purposes only)

So instead of one more cable in the front box, I was able to get rid of one!

[Red Dog]

Very nice mod!

[Daubsy]

I think it's interesting and cool how everyone finds there own solution to solar inputs / connections. I thought about using the detachable 30A pigtail as well, but I didn't like that it could possibly be confused with shore power. Your adapter solved that problem.

The other common issue, as you mentioned, is cord length and where you put the solar input. It sucks when you only have a 25ft cord and the sun is at the end opposite the connector.

[Ginger]

This is regarding the refrigerator latch mods. We have never had a problem with the Casita frig door coming open. For you that have owned both brands, what's the difference? Is the door the same on the 2017 as on the older models? Just curious about this issue.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ginger

This is regarding the refrigerator latch mods. We have never had a problem with the Casita frig door coming open. For you that have owned both brands, what's the difference? Is the door the same on the 2017 as on the older models? Just curious about this issue.

Confused about this . We have the 4.3 and never had door open . We don't load up items on door and since day one keep the Dometic door lock on , you have to push buttons down to open refrigerator . We do not have any straps or bungees across door . Been on some bumpy roads , maybe we are just lucky . Pat

[Brian B-P]

I don't think it's a matter of RV brand, refrigerator brand, or luck... it is the specific design of the model of refrigerator.

My motorhome has the Dometic DM2852, which is a larger model in the same Americana series as Escape is now using in the new (second-generation, 2017, vertical-walled) body design, which Escape could not use previously due to the width of the doorway. The doors (separate for fresh food and freezer sections in our case) have positive latches and have never come open, even on bumpy and twisting roads that have popped open cabinets around the refrigerator. The fresh food section door of mine is larger and so heavier than the door of the smaller RM 2354 and RM 2454 used in the 17' (and presumably RM 2554 in the 19', and presumably DM 2663 in the 21' and 5.0TA), with the same latch.

I note that one of the "Key Benefits" listed by Dometic for the Americana series is "Positive lock door handles". It just astounds me that this is not a feature of every refrigerator made for use in a moving vehicle. If your specific model of refrigerator doesn't have an adequate latch, a mod may be appropriate.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Daubsy

I thought about using the detachable 30A pigtail as well, but I didn't like that it could possibly be confused with shore power. Your adapter solved that problem.

I considered using a 30A plug receptacle on the trailer body as well, and think I will do so the next time I add a solar port. To prevent someone accidentally plugging shore power into the solar input I'll make the solar port a female plug, same as a 120V shore receptacle. That way you can't plug an extension cord into both shore power and solar input!

[phalaney]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Do you have problems with items knocking your cabinet doors open and then having a party in your trailer while on the move, despite using tension bars and skid mats? We occasionally did. But no more. If you can fit a tension bar behind a cabinet face there's no way they can get knocked out, but on some of the cabinets that isn't possible. I found some rod hangers that fit the end of the tension bars perfectly and hold them and all the other rowdy things in place.

http://www.amazon.com/Urbanest-Insid..._qdlnxb02AM4BJ

Did you use shorter screws? If so do you know what length? Also, did you put in both screws or just one? Thanks. I ordered some and don't want to put a screw through the outside of a cabinet!

[sclifrickson]

I used stainless one inch Robertson head screws. On some of them I used two per side but on others I used one per side. I think I have four bars set up this way in our rig.

[phalaney]

Thanks that is helpful

[sclifrickson]

We upgraded from our trusty, and heavily modified, 17B to a 19 in August, and the mods are underway. One thing I’ve added to our new rig is something that I always wanted to do, but never got around to, being an internal switch that can turn on the marker and tail lights while disconnected from the TV.

I had ETI add a switch by the door and run the wire up by the front cargo box.


I added a weatherproof electrical box just behind the equalizer hitch L bracket, in which I installed a 7 pin plug.

The most useful aspect of this setup, however, is having a waterproof place to plug the 7 pin cable and keep it out of the muck and wet.

[gbaglo]

Like that, but I just shove the 7-pin plug up under the propane tanks cover.

[sclifrickson]

We really liked the red lights that we had in the 17, which were easily achieved by switching out for red LED bulbs.

But the new pancake dome lights have soldered strips - not so easy to change. Instead, I sourced some high temp photo gel material from The Amazon, and cut it to fit inside the fixture.

We had ETI build our rig with an extra pancake light in the bath just for this purpose, and added captains lights in all corners. The captains lights give pleasant, indirect white light, but all of the pancakes under the overhead cabinets have the red film for the middle of the night.

I have two extra red pancake films that will fit the smaller pancake lights. If anyone would like them, please PM me. Also, I have 3 extra red LED’s for the older non-pancakes, if anyone would like those. Please to PM if interested.

[sclifrickson]

One other mod that I’m particularly proud of is our external plug for a portable solar panel. I really didn’t like having a heavy gauge cable that we had to previously carry that was only used for the solar panel. I like things that are multipurpose. I had ETI install a 30A female outlet (inlet in this application), added a 30A male plug to the pigtail coming from our briefcase solar panel, and tada! Chuck the dedicated solar cable and instead use the 50’ 30A extension cord that we already carry! Preventing anyone from accidentally plugging shore power into the solar inlet is assured, because it’s a female inlet, and you can’t plug an extension cord into both female shore and female solar. [emoji6]

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Like that, but I just shove the 7-pin plug up under the propane tanks cover.

But your propane cover won’t do this:

Yes, it’s more of a trailer geek thing than anything. But still...

[gbaglo]

Justifies LED running lights.

[mcdonner]

That last photo I believe shows your bike hitch. What type is it and are you happy with it. Love the green color. We have green also but a little darker.

[sclifrickson]

It’s a 1UP-USA rack. Expensive, but you will understand why when you see one in person. It is hands down the best bike rack I’ve ever used. Highly recommended. Several threads hereabouts that discuss them more.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Justifies LED running lights.

My Trimetric battery meter indicated that turning on ALL the LED running lights and tail lights in this way used exactly as much electricity as the one incandescent bulb that ETI still puts in the range hood!

I have since replaced that bulb with an LED as well [emoji846]

[stormforce]

great!! where did you position 30 amp 1nlet plug ? passenger side by back running light ? (for portable solar)