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Old 09-13-2016, 06:16 PM   #61
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Mods I Haven't Seen Elsewhere

I had a 25 foot (7.62m for you sensible types up north) dedicated solar cable for our briefcase solar panel and found that it was frequently too short. I considered adding some connectors to enable using a longish, standard 15A extension cord, but then realized I'm already carrying a 50', 30A heavy duty extension cord with me everywhere we go, so found a pair of 30A pigtails, introduced them to some friendly MC4 connectors and crimping tool, and voila!





(Cable is draped across front of panel for show and tell purposes only)

So instead of one more cable in the front box, I was able to get rid of one!
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:41 PM   #62
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Very nice mod!
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:00 PM   #63
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I think it's interesting and cool how everyone finds there own solution to solar inputs / connections. I thought about using the detachable 30A pigtail as well, but I didn't like that it could possibly be confused with shore power. Your adapter solved that problem.

The other common issue, as you mentioned, is cord length and where you put the solar input. It sucks when you only have a 25ft cord and the sun is at the end opposite the connector.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:39 AM   #64
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This is regarding the refrigerator latch mods. We have never had a problem with the Casita frig door coming open. For you that have owned both brands, what's the difference? Is the door the same on the 2017 as on the older models? Just curious about this issue.
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Old 09-14-2016, 02:31 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger View Post
This is regarding the refrigerator latch mods. We have never had a problem with the Casita frig door coming open. For you that have owned both brands, what's the difference? Is the door the same on the 2017 as on the older models? Just curious about this issue.
Confused about this . We have the 4.3 and never had door open . We don't load up items on door and since day one keep the Dometic door lock on , you have to push buttons down to open refrigerator . We do not have any straps or bungees across door . Been on some bumpy roads , maybe we are just lucky . Pat
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Old 09-14-2016, 03:08 PM   #66
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I don't think it's a matter of RV brand, refrigerator brand, or luck... it is the specific design of the model of refrigerator.

My motorhome has the Dometic DM2852, which is a larger model in the same Americana series as Escape is now using in the new (second-generation, 2017, vertical-walled) body design, which Escape could not use previously due to the width of the doorway. The doors (separate for fresh food and freezer sections in our case) have positive latches and have never come open, even on bumpy and twisting roads that have popped open cabinets around the refrigerator. The fresh food section door of mine is larger and so heavier than the door of the smaller RM 2354 and RM 2454 used in the 17' (and presumably RM 2554 in the 19', and presumably DM 2663 in the 21' and 5.0TA), with the same latch.

I note that one of the "Key Benefits" listed by Dometic for the Americana series is "Positive lock door handles". It just astounds me that this is not a feature of every refrigerator made for use in a moving vehicle. If your specific model of refrigerator doesn't have an adequate latch, a mod may be appropriate.
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:56 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Daubsy View Post
I thought about using the detachable 30A pigtail as well, but I didn't like that it could possibly be confused with shore power. Your adapter solved that problem.

I considered using a 30A plug receptacle on the trailer body as well, and think I will do so the next time I add a solar port. To prevent someone accidentally plugging shore power into the solar input I'll make the solar port a female plug, same as a 120V shore receptacle. That way you can't plug an extension cord into both shore power and solar input!
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Old 05-24-2017, 03:39 PM   #68
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Do you have problems with items knocking your cabinet doors open and then having a party in your trailer while on the move, despite using tension bars and skid mats? We occasionally did. But no more. If you can fit a tension bar behind a cabinet face there's no way they can get knocked out, but on some of the cabinets that isn't possible. I found some rod hangers that fit the end of the tension bars perfectly and hold them and all the other rowdy things in place.

http://www.amazon.com/Urbanest-Insid..._qdlnxb02AM4BJ
Did you use shorter screws? If so do you know what length? Also, did you put in both screws or just one? Thanks. I ordered some and don't want to put a screw through the outside of a cabinet!
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Old 05-24-2017, 05:03 PM   #69
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I used stainless one inch Robertson head screws. On some of them I used two per side but on others I used one per side. I think I have four bars set up this way in our rig.
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Old 05-24-2017, 05:51 PM   #70
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Thanks that is helpful
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