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Old 10-24-2019, 01:13 PM   #1
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New 6v Batteries for 2010 17B: New controller also?

Working on solving a problem with our 2010 17B. I am sure I need to replace the batteries, since one will not take a charge. They are Duracell from Batteries Plus with a date of 12-17. We have a single solar panel, probably installed at purchase by ETI.

I am concerned that the solar regulator also needs to be replaced. It is a Go Pro 25 amp digital solar regulator (cannot find model #), probably installed at the factory. I intend to purchase AGM batteries, probably Reliant T105. I have two reasons why I am afraid I need a new regulator also:

1. The current regulator display has always been blank, and I cannot make it show anything. It has A and B buttons which seem to have no effect.

2. I understand the AGM batteries require a special setting on the controller, which is not possible on the current one due to no display, even if it is supposed to have the ability. (I actually have no idea if the controller is working at all, since I do not know how to test it. I have no reason to believe the panel is inop, though I do not know how to test for that either without disconnecting it). When I returned from a 30 absence the batteries were discharged, though there was full sun.

If I need a new controller what do you recommend and where to get it?

Thanks, All.
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Old 10-24-2019, 01:54 PM   #2
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It is a Go Pro 25 amp digital solar regulator (cannot find model #), probably installed at the factory.
If it was a factory option, it was probably a Go Power, presumably an older model, and likely 30 amp rather than 25 amp. The trailer should have come with a manual for the controller, but there is a Go Power GP-PWM-30 manual in this forum's file collection which might be helpful.
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Old 10-24-2019, 01:57 PM   #3
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I actually have no idea if the controller is working at all, since I do not know how to test it. I have no reason to believe the panel is inop, though I do not know how to test for that either without disconnecting it
If you have a voltmeter you can check the voltage at the controller's input from the panels and the output to the battery, and see immediately (if the sun is on the panels and the battery is not fully charged) if the controller is functioning. Just tell us what numbers you're seeing and someone can interpret for you.
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Old 10-24-2019, 02:15 PM   #4
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If you have a voltmeter you can check the voltage at the controller's input from the panels and the output to the battery, and see immediately (if the sun is on the panels and the battery is not fully charged) if the controller is functioning. Just tell us what numbers you're seeing and someone can interpret for you.
A slight modification to the above. On a sunny day, with nothing running in the trailer of significance, measure the output to the battery, then toss a piece of cardboard or a blanket over the panel and take the same measurement. "Before and after", in other words. If the before voltage (sun on panel) is higher than the after then the controller may possibly be working. If the before and after are exactly the same then toss the controller with the dead batteries. Also measure the input side, before and after. Tell us what you find.
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Old 10-24-2019, 02:30 PM   #5
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Thanks, when we get some sun I will do it.


Even if the controller is working, can I still use it with AGM batteries if I cannot see to change a setting? I read in another post that Trojan advises a special setting to avoid harming the batteries.
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Old 10-24-2019, 02:45 PM   #6
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Even if the controller is working, can I still use it with AGM batteries if I cannot see to change a setting? I read in another post that Trojan advises a special setting to avoid harming the batteries.
You really need to confirm the controller model and check its documentation to answer this properly, but the Go Power GP-PWM-30 manual says (on page 12 of the version posted in this forum) that it has an AGM charging profile which is the same as for flooded batteries except to eliminate equalization... and equalization is likely (again, check the Trojan documentation) the setting which could potentially harm an AGM battery.
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Old 10-24-2019, 02:52 PM   #7
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Working on solving a problem with our 2010 17B. I am sure I need to replace the batteries, since one will not take a charge. They are Duracell from Batteries Plus with a date of 12-17. We have a single solar panel, probably installed at purchase by ETI.

I am concerned that the solar regulator also needs to be replaced. It is a Go Pro 25 amp digital solar regulator (cannot find model #), probably installed at the factory. I intend to purchase AGM batteries, probably Reliant T105. I have two reasons why I am afraid I need a new regulator also:

1. The current regulator display has always been blank, and I cannot make it show anything. It has A and B buttons which seem to have no effect.

2. I understand the AGM batteries require a special setting on the controller, which is not possible on the current one due to no display, even if it is supposed to have the ability. (I actually have no idea if the controller is working at all, since I do not know how to test it. I have no reason to believe the panel is inop, though I do not know how to test for that either without disconnecting it). When I returned from a 30 absence the batteries were discharged, though there was full sun.

If I need a new controller what do you recommend and where to get it?

Thanks, All.
Yes it is a 25 amp controller, I know because I have one. The panel that came with ours was a 90 watt.
here is the manual;
https://gpelectric.com/files/gpelect...0PWM-25_vE.pdf

It does have a setting for AGM, but it sounds like yours is not getting any power and that is why there is no display.
And it probably wasn't charging your battery.

Ours still works fine and although it is a simple device it charges the batteries and every 28 days it equalizes them, which if you have or had an AGM battery should have been turned off. The manual tells you how to set the AGM setting and it will not do the equalize voltage with that setting.

If you have a voltmeter there are only 4 connections on the back of it.
The solar panel, which should have some voltage. And the battery which, if you have the battery installed should have ~12 volts.

When the battery terminal on mine corroded and fell off, the solar panel still ran the controller and lights and gas detector when the sun was shining.

(The front of ours says 30 amp, but the back of it says it is a GP-PWM25)
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Old 10-24-2019, 03:27 PM   #8
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Yes it is a 25 amp controller, I know because I have one. The panel that came with ours was a 90 watt.
here is the manual;
https://gpelectric.com/files/gpelect...0PWM-25_vE.pdf
Excellent It looks like the GP-PWM-25 was the predecessor to the GP-PWM-30.
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:06 AM   #9
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The advantage of replacing the GoPower 25 amp controller with the newer 30 is I believe they have the same footprint so no need to adjust the hole in which it is mounted. I'd check the manuals for each - They have a mounting template in each...

That said, I really like the Victron 100/30. It does not have a face or controls; it uses Bluetooth to provide settings & information using your phone. It has a number of stock settings for different types of lead acid as well as lithium, and can be user programed for just about anything.
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Old 10-25-2019, 02:29 PM   #10
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Working on solving a problem with our 2010 17B.
We have a single solar panel, probably installed at purchase by ETI.
.
I just want to let you know that there was a recall on the solar panel mounting on our 17B and I'm thinking it may effect yours.
They have new bolts that go thru the roof into the cupboards above the big table and some stainless cables that attach to the panel.

There was also a recall on the front of the frame where it curves up from under the trailer to the A frame part that the hitch is attached to.

An Email to Escape will confirm all this and they can send you the parts to get it done. I think they pay a flat rate for the fixes to be applied. We just took ours back to the factory and it was done while we had a coffee.

We like our 17B and the solar setup, so it is all quite functional when it is working. But if it is broken then any new panel will have better capacity and as Vermilye says some of the new stuff is real wiz bang.
I upgraded my 25 amp to the 30 amp, same brand, because I didn't want a different hole in the cupboards and/or run new wires.
The newer 30 Amp version has more settings for battery charging schemes and readouts and a button press to start an equalize session.
Amazon sells them but I found a better deal on Craigslist.
I still use the old one on a shed and it still works fine and it keeps an AGM battery topped up.
I would look for unplugged or corroded cables or fuses in the cables.
If you have one of those booster battery pack things to start a car, and it is charged up, connect it to the battery connections on the back of the gopower25 and see if you at least get a digital readout happening on the face of it.
If you cant even get that to work it is probably scrap.

https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-Solar-...2027870&sr=8-1
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Old 10-25-2019, 06:07 PM   #11
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There was also a recall on the front of the frame where it curves up from under the trailer to the A frame part that the hitch is attached to.
In case this trailer has not already been checked, and if necessary modified, there is an extensive discussion:
3" Frame Recall on 15', 17' & 19' Escape Trailers
... and Escape can assist with any information required.
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Old 10-26-2019, 09:41 AM   #12
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Thanks to everyone for you guidance and suggestions. I plan on getting a voltmeter this weekend (fried mine trying the other day!) and will report back with my findings. Without your ideas I would not really know the best way to proceed.


Re: recalls: Before I purchased the trailer I contacted ETI with the ID number. They confirmed the recall on the frame had not been done and, after purchase, sent me the necessary parts and paid $50 for the required welding. Pretty impressive customer service on a 9 year old trailer with multiple owners. They did not say anything about a possible solar panel problem. I will check it out.
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:09 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by marant View Post
Thanks to everyone for you guidance and suggestions. I plan on getting a voltmeter this weekend (fried mine trying the other day!) and will report back with my findings. Without your ideas I would not really know the best way to proceed.


Re: recalls: Before I purchased the trailer I contacted ETI with the ID number. They confirmed the recall on the frame had not been done and, after purchase, sent me the necessary parts and paid $50 for the required welding. Pretty impressive customer service on a 9 year old trailer with multiple owners. They did not say anything about a possible solar panel problem. I will check it out.
Having a lot of experience frying Voltmeters, you can save yourself a bundle by replacing the fuse in your meter, most have 2, simply open it up and pull the fuse and duplicate whats inside, I bought a fuse pack on line for ~ 10 US and now have enough different fuses for several lifetimes
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:17 AM   #14
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Good idea, but it was one of the free ones from HF. Pretty much all I ever need.
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:56 PM   #15
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Sun finally came out, so time to run the various checks as suggested. Unfortunately, the batteries (which I planned to replace anyway) are both dead, so unable to check the controller. Did not think it made sense to try to charge them, since one is definitely kaput and would never get enough voltage to meet the controller threshold. Have ordered two new batteries, will proceed when they arrive.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-14-2019, 10:55 AM   #16
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Well, based upon suggestions and directions here I ended up purchasing 2 new 6v batteries (Trojan T-105) and a new Go Power GP-PWM-30-UL controller.

Just installed the controller, really quite simple with good instructions, especially when replacing another Go Power. Seems to work fine, but it is raining so must wait for the sun to complete checkout.

FWIW, the new GP-PWM-30-UL controller handles 4 types of batteries (flooded, agm, gel, and lfp), and will handle two battery banks. It also has bluetooth connection, and a usb charging port.

Will be taking the Errant Escape out in a week or so to check out all the systems before going to the Matagorda Rally in early Dec.
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Old 11-21-2019, 05:03 PM   #17
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Well, I have had time to do a little more work with the electrical system and still have a problem. The new batteries are fine, showing 13.2 V when fully charged. The interior DC plugs also show 13.2 V so all of the trailer wiring is fine. (The trailer is not connected to shore power).

The controller solar input and battery output terminals both show 7.4 V, but I do not know if this is due to them being connected through the controller. I have not measured them disconnected from the controller. I also have not done a controller hard reset.

The readout panel on the new controller is working and shows the following: The battery level is 0, and the battery diagram shows empty. The panel reads out at 1 A, 7.5 V and 96 AH (with light overcast).
I am certainly no expert and need all the help I can get, but think this means that the panel is functioning, but I am not sure how well. It is the original 95 W panel installed by ETI. It has no label showing how much the output should be, but I would expect about 16V. I cannot get to the connections at the panel without disconnecting the wiring, which I am reluctant to do at this point.

In the course of installing the new batteries I discovered one of the connectors was nearly broken off the cable and replaced it. This, and the above readings, make me think the connections within the solar system are suspect, and my next plan is to try to trace them for poor connections. Since the controller is not showing the charge in the batteries maybe that wiring is the place to start, but it does make me wonder how it can show the batteries have 96 AH.

What do you all think?
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:04 AM   #18
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In looking at the solar wiring diagram it shows an inline fuse between the controller and the batteries. I have not been able to find any fuse, but it brings to mind a question: Could there be separate fuses for each battery, with one blown? Or does the readout information suggest that there is a bad connection to just one battery?
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:37 AM   #19
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I am certainly no expert and need all the help I can get, but think this means that the panel is functioning, but I am not sure how well. It is the original 95 W panel installed by ETI. It has no label showing how much the output should be, but I would expect about 16V.
My bet is that your panel matches the 95W unit that is listed as no longer available on the Go Power website. Here is the spec sheet:
https://gpelectric.com/wp-content/up...ecs_CTI-95.pdf

Troubleshooting this is a bit beyond me. Hopefully the solar/electrical experts will weigh in.
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:42 AM   #20
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My bet is that your panel matches the 95W unit that is listed as no longer available on the Go Power website. Here is the spec sheet:
https://gpelectric.com/wp-content/up...ecs_CTI-95.pdf

Troubleshooting this is a bit beyond me. Hopefully the solar/electrical experts will weigh in.

Thanks, Rubicon. Already printed it out.


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