New and improved table latch

[Linda]

Thanks to Hippo for helping us to install a new latch for our 19 ft. Escape sliding table. If you are interested in the steps along with photos of the install, you can check it out here: https://sites.google.com/site/1bosel...stalling_latch

I am attaching one photo here but there are lots more on the link above. We wanted a more secure latch to insure no table movement during travel.

Linda

[hippo]

I am happy Mr.Pete liked the table latch and approved it. This is his 3rd Escape so he knows the trailers inside and out. Possibly the Factory will want to use this latch it locks and stays locked during travel. The Factory latch system failed on our 3rd trip out camping. If any Escape owners would like a latch I will have some with me at the Escape rally.

[gabe]

That was an excellent article on the sliding-table latch.
Now, do you by any chance have a solution for a table that wobbles. It is the front sliding table again, and because it is anchored on ony one pedestal aluminum pipe it is unstable. I have tried switching the ends of the pipe (from floor fitting to table fitting) but it doesn't really help.
I would appreciate any ideas you might have. Thanks
Gabe

[gbaglo]

I'm not recommending, I'm only admitting, that I used my hatchet head to add a few authoritative taps to the top of the pipe before mounting the table top. Then, I just used body weight to snug the top.

baglo

[Linda]

Baglo's got the right idea for table wobble! Works for me!

Linda

[Roger C H]

RE: Holding table steady whilst traveling: The design shown is an elegant solution. I just hook a shock cord over the table edge and the support pipe holding it to one side or lay the table down.

RE: Stopping the wobble: Pressing the tube too tightly makes it difficult to remove. Plus I would be concerned about the aluminum castings holding the ends of the tube. One could crack them.

A basic problem with the design: Since the flanges are aluminum and the pedestal is steel, they expand/contract at different rates with temperature, so it would be nigh impossible to have them fit decently, thus the 'tapered' ends.

[JeffZ]

or just drink more and the wobble will just disappear.

[Linda]

That might make it worse!

[hippo]

If any one would like a table lock I will have some with me. Mr. Rick and I will install one on his trailers table this weekend.

[RickM]

At the Osooyoos Escape Rally, Hippo (the man!) installed his table lock on my Escape 19'. All went according to plan except that we found out that, due to manufacturing tolerances, there was a tight fix between the latch and the barrel catch. The table lock works well, however, when I returned home I made a small modification. To overcome the tightness, I mortised out the first ply the area under the barrel catch Since the plywood was now a little thinner and the supplied wood screws are now even longer (they were long to begin with, which required hack sawing), I used machine screws and blind nuts.

If you do plan to install the Hippo table lock, you might want to check out the hardware and select the package with the shortest barrel catch height.

Here's a link of Hippo's install, complete with pictures.

[jamie beers]

I've read in another post that many Escape owners have gone with this new and improved table latch system. Not being renowned for my handyman skills, I'm wondering if at this point in time Escape has started to install these latches as an option? j

[Linda]

Here is a new link for how to install a table latch (if you have a sliding dinette in your Escape):
Step by Step Instructions

[tractors1]

Another approach - Destaco clamp, so the table can be immobilized at any position. Mounted at the center of the rear side.

[Jim Bennett]

We haven't used a latch in 6 years, as our trailer never came with one, but have had no issue without it.

Never realized this was an old thread right away, and saw Jeff's post, thinking he was back posting on the forum he created. Then I got smarter.........

[bdornbush]

I have a latch that looks like the one in the photo, but mine is meant to be used vertically so that it latches when mounted vertically rather than horizontally under the table. Is your latch somehow different so it stays in place when mounted under the table and the latch hangs down? I would think the bolt would be able to move front to back and therefore unlatch while jostled in motion.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by bdornbush

I have a latch that looks like the one in the photo, but mine is meant to be used vertically so that it latches when mounted vertically rather than horizontally under the table. Is your latch somehow different so it stays in place when mounted under the table and the latch hangs down? I would think the bolt would be able to move front to back and therefore unlatch while jostled in motion.

The bolt can be adjusted for thickness of the table part being clamped and tightened down anywhere in the bolt slot. Very common part I use in a machine shop for holding down metal plates while machining them. Works by the linkage being pushed "over center" so it locks in position. Destaco makes dozens of different designs. http://www.destaco.com/clamps.html

[Linda]

Here is a link to one like the one we used. It is a bunk latch and the handle stays flush to the table when it is latched.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by bdornbush

I have a latch that looks like the one in the photo, but mine is meant to be used vertically so that it latches when mounted vertically rather than horizontally under the table. Is your latch somehow different so it stays in place when mounted under the table and the latch hangs down? I would think the bolt would be able to move front to back and therefore unlatch while jostled in motion.

It locks and has never come loose for us .Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Linda

Here is a link to one like the one we used. It is a bunk latch and the handle stays flush to the table when it is latched.

That is the exact one we use . Pat

[Bobbito]

Escape Dining Table Lock Modification

So having observed serious gouging of the underside of our table without even going on really rough roads, I decided to follow Linda’s approach to locking the dining room table (the brass bunk latch) and bought one locally. However, the latch came with a lock plate as described in Linda’s link to Amazaon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-Co...=rv+bunk+latch

The instructions that Linda linked to (Hippo's?) described a different piece of hardware to slide the latch bolt into:

https://sites.google.com/site/1bosel...stalling_latch

I followed these instructions, but...

...I decided that rather than go looking at the hardware store for hardware that mounted at a 90 degree angle to the bolt patch, I would use the lock plate that it came with. It would have been easier to install the other piece as described in those instructions, but I stubbornly adapted it for what came in the package.

I used a table saw to make the grooved block and also cut the other block to an exact thickness, necessary to position the bolt to line up with the lock plate hole.

Unfortunately I used Gorilla brand glue, which foams out and makes a mess, but who looks under the table?

Last week I spoke with Reace about some fixes and modifications for our Escape 21 and mentioned the problem with the standard knob/bolt mechanism used to secure the table. Even when I secured our table’s bolt against a piece of rubber, the bolt worked its way loose and added to the gouge in the underside of the table as it slid back and forth. I think the bungee cord might have been another option, but I wanted something better.

I found the posted instruction very helpful and easy to follow as I did my modification.

Bob K