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Old 08-30-2017, 07:51 PM   #1
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New Fridge Door

When ETI was handing out replacement, reportedly better insulated, doors last year I asked for one. Opened the box, it looked pretty much the same but I was busy so it got stuck in storage. Fridge, with other mods, works well so I didn't rush to put it on. Plus Myron reported that he broke the side trim piece when he took his front panel off so I was a bit hesitant to take it apart.

Anyway, got brave, got lucky and the trim and front panel came off easily.

So I weighed the two doors, both devoid of front panel and shelves etc. The new door weighs 1 pound, 2 ounces more. So I'm hoping that means that the insulating foam is denser and more efficient. Maybe this door is from the tropical rated fridge.

So, it'll be hard to measure any improvement but it seemed like something worth doing.

Ron
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Old 08-30-2017, 10:00 PM   #2
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Which Dometic model is this door from?
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Old 08-30-2017, 10:33 PM   #3
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It's the RM 8551. Putting it back with the original front panel now because I need to use the trailer this weekend. Now that I know how to take it off I'll work on getting a nice photo and poster like Myron did.

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Old 08-31-2017, 10:31 AM   #4
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I got one of the new doors too. Found it was much more ridged and had less flex to it. Sealed better too. It was hard to tell if it made any difference to the cooling because I did so many other things to the fridge back then but just sealing better made me feel better.
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Old 08-31-2017, 11:49 AM   #5
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We received one of those doors .I weighed both doors and both weighed the same . Didn't see any difference . Pat
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Old 08-31-2017, 12:36 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
We received one of those doors .I weighed both doors and both weighed the same . Didn't see any difference . Pat
That's strange. I used pretty good digital bathroom scales. But they weren't accurate enough to weigh that small a weight. So I did the, hold the door and weigh myself, then weight myself only thing. Did it several times and could see that there was at least a pound difference between them.

Then I found our kitchen scales could weigh them. My wife had said they were only meant for up to 5 lbs. I checked and they're good for 5 kg. Weighed them several times and the difference is 18 ounces.

As I said, it'll be hard to notice a difference but there should be at least an incremental one when the interior temperature is high.

Ron
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Old 08-31-2017, 12:39 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
I got one of the new doors too. Found it was much more ridged and had less flex to it.
I didn't compare rigidity but I did notice, from a side view, that the edge of the old one didn't appear to be straight. It seemed to have a slight arc to it. My thought was, that without a good gasket, it would leak like a sieve.

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Old 08-31-2017, 01:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
That's strange. I used pretty good digital bathroom scales. But they weren't accurate enough to weigh that small a weight. So I did the, hold the door and weigh myself, then weight myself only thing. Did it several times and could see that there was at least a pound difference between them.

Then I found our kitchen scales could weigh them. My wife had said they were only meant for up to 5 lbs. I checked and they're good for 5 kg. Weighed them several times and the difference is 18 ounces.

As I said, it'll be hard to notice a difference but there should be at least an incremental one when the interior temperature is high.
Ron I did exactly as you did . Yes the scales won't weigh under 5 lbs so got on the scale ( digital ) holding doors and then subtracting my weight . It's how we need to check weight of our dogs too. I called Tammy and told her the results . Maybe Dometic just sent out regular door and that is the one we got .We just have door stored and since others have their door break we have a spare now , though I did offer it to a forum member who had his door break but it wasn't his door . Will just keep it now in case our door breaks being they are very expensive to replace . Will tell you was disappointed and was hoping for a improvement . On another note did the picture poster as I think it was Jon first did ,so not afraid of the trim . See if need there are be places to add some short screws which won't damage door . Pat
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Old 08-31-2017, 01:19 PM   #9
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The numbers were different between the two doors. The new one had "VIP" in the series of numbers. That, and the replacement was molded a year later.

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Old 08-31-2017, 08:53 PM   #10
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The numbers were different between the two doors. The new one had "VIP" in the series of numbers. That, and the replacement was molded a year later.

Ron
Ron it's been a couple of years now . Don't want to remove anything or go find the other . Someday if I have door apart maybe will check but it is way on back burner now . Besides after all the mods I did Refrigerator has been working acceptable . Our numbers are not bad even in very hot temps . So it is a mute point for us now . Pat
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:29 PM   #11
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Oh man, sometimes even the simplest things can go sideways.

I packed the cavity surrounding the fridge full of foam, more than before. I think that I have more insulation on the sides and top than the fridge itself has.

Then stuff started hitting the fan.

First I installed the new door. I was a little surprised on how sloppy it was on the pivot points pins. I know that those two little long white strips that came in a bag taped to the door are shims? of some sort. The door is low and rubs on the lower rest point.

Anyone that's installed the door have any useful hints for me?

Then things got worse. Turned on a volt meter. #1 battery voltage was in the basement. Switched to Bat. #2 and it literally started dropping like a rock as I watched. I did all the usual trouble shooting stuff and isolated the problem to the fridge 12 volt circuit. When I removed the top fridge panel, the one with the controls, I must have tugged on the ribbon cable. It was slightly askew. That's all it took to presumably turn on the 12 v element and create a large draw. Lesson learned.

Any helpful hints on the door installation etc. appreciated.

Ron
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:45 PM   #12
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"I know that those two little long white strips that came in a bag taped to the door are shims? of some sort. The door is low and rubs on the lower rest point."

After we received the replacement door several years ago I e-mailed Escape TT requesting information describing the use of the plastic shims. I was told that they had not opened any of the boxes nor were they using any of the updated doors ! When you installed the new door was the OE plastic washer on the bottom hinge pin ?
4.3 frig replacement door
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Old 09-01-2017, 04:08 PM   #13
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I was told the shims were not needed and did not use them. Make sure the plastic washer/spacer is still on the bottom pin. I dropped mine and did not notice it until the door was rubbing and then found it on the floor.
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Oh man, sometimes even the simplest things can go sideways.

I packed the cavity surrounding the fridge full of foam, more than before. I think that I have more insulation on the sides and top than the fridge itself has.

Then stuff started hitting the fan.

First I installed the new door. I was a little surprised on how sloppy it was on the pivot points pins. I know that those two little long white strips that came in a bag taped to the door are shims? of some sort. The door is low and rubs on the lower rest point.

Anyone that's installed the door have any useful hints for me?

Then things got worse. Turned on a volt meter. #1 battery voltage was in the basement. Switched to Bat. #2 and it literally started dropping like a rock as I watched. I did all the usual trouble shooting stuff and isolated the problem to the fridge 12 volt circuit. When I removed the top fridge panel, the one with the controls, I must have tugged on the ribbon cable. It was slightly askew. That's all it took to presumably turn on the 12 v element and create a large draw. Lesson learned.

Any helpful hints on the door installation etc. appreciated.

Ron
Ron as Tom said make sure you have your spacer washer . Over time I think they wear and if it's there or lost , just add another until you get smooth operation . I didn't use the shims . Make sure to seal all the openings in door . That's it . Pat
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:43 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
When you installed the new door was the OE plastic washer on the bottom hinge pin ?
4.3 frig replacement door
Thanks a bunch. That was the thread I had seen before. Very entertaining to reread.

I think that Myron's thought that the white strips could be shims to re-position the door latch is the most probable. Swizzle sticks, not so much.

OK, it's not more than 80 or so in the trailer, I'll go out and play with the door and hopefully make it fit better.

Ron
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:51 PM   #16
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And just to be extra safe don't forget to wipe off the flex capacitor.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:20 PM   #17
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Thanks gang, we're all good now. Yup, operator error, thought that I felt the pin go in the hole but it went into one of those square holes that surround the round hole.

BTW, it was Pat that won the original "what the heck are these mini swizzle sticks for" Page 22 does indeed show them being used as shims at the bottom of the panel.

OK Myron, will do. Only thing left to do is find a nice photo for the fridge front to replace the original bland one. Yours looks absolutely great.

Even after the bottom pin was in the new door wouldn't latch fully. I could pull it out enough that the gasket would pull away. Ended up using the old latch.

Some mods are quick, rewarding and worthwhile. Likely not this one.

Ron
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